Tuesday, June 23, 2015

Route Profile: Forbidden Peak, West Ridge, 5.6, Grade III

If you are an alpine climber in the Cascades, you can basically be divided into two groups.  You have either climbed the West Ridge of Forbidden, or you want to.  With amazing views, thrilling exposure, solid rock and moderate climbing, there is no wonder why it is listed as one of 50 classic climbs in North America.

Forbidden Peak from Boston Basin.  The summit is to the far right.  Dawn Glanc.

The climb starts up the finger of snow to the right of the photo.  There are also rock variations to the left of the couloir.
The West Ridge to the left, with Mt. Torment to the far left.
Taken from the summit of Sahale Peak.  James Pierson
Climbing up the snow couloir.  Alasdair Turner
Heading up the ridge.  Alasdair Turner.

Climber on the last pitch of Forbidden with Moraine Lake and
Eldorado Peak in the background.  Dawn Glac

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