Monday, November 2, 2015

Cleaning Toprope Anchors

In cooperation with Outdoor Research, the American Mountain Guides Association has made several videos for beginning level climbers.

In this video, AMGA Instructor Team Member Margaret Wheeler demonstrates how to clean a toprope anchor.



Critical Points
--Always double check yourself
--Maintain good communication with your belayer
--Do not rush
--Keep baggy clothing out of the way
--Always double check yourself

--Jason D. Martin

3 comments:

Jason Luker said...

Is it kosher to lower off of a quick link like that? There seems to be a lot of controversy around this and while top roping off of the chains is a clear no-no, it's less clear if lowering is bad practice, especially at popular crags where that can thin it out quickly.

Jason Martin said...

It's best to avoid it if possible.

Sometimes I set-up the TR on a pre-equalized anchor. People TR for awhile, and then at the very end I lower off once.

That said, each place is equipped differently. If there are rings, these are less of a problem to lower off. The same goes for mussy hooks. Hardware store chain can be damaged quickly, especially in a sandy environment.

The best thing of all to do is to follow the ettiquete of a given crag...

Jason

Anonymous said...

The etiquette of the crag is important, though at some places, you'll see inconsistency. At Smith Rock, eg, the etiquette is to rap off once it's cleaned--even with rings. Or that's been the etiquette as taught to me :) But frequently, you'll see people lower off the chains. I hope we can all agree that the worst, though, is to not set up your own anchor and TR off the chains.