tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post2513448796233974310..comments2024-03-14T10:07:59.760-07:00Comments on American Alpine Institute - Climbing Blog: The Problem with Rappel Back-Ups Off Modern Leg-LoopsErin-Leigh Hardyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10781785451497618508noreply@blogger.comBlogger8125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post-12073860695915558252011-06-01T08:12:12.342-07:002011-06-01T08:12:12.342-07:00nice article - a bit overcautious in tone. I espe...nice article - a bit overcautious in tone. I especially thought the bottom pic was a great one to show a newbie how rappeling works, until she pointed out that the guy in the pic has lost his right thumb, and now she thinks it's dangerous!AdamD (was zippdy50)https://www.blogger.com/profile/14346301414097678733noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post-68097675726953852902010-06-21T08:16:51.850-07:002010-06-21T08:16:51.850-07:00I suspect that most climbers on their fifth or six...I suspect that most climbers on their fifth or sixth harness will not read the harness manual...<br /><br />JasonAmerican Alpine Institutehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02912049031518327438noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post-9322563291858386332010-06-16T04:40:29.928-07:002010-06-16T04:40:29.928-07:00Well if you would read the manual of your harness,...Well if you would read the manual of your harness, you will read not to use the legloops for these purposes. Just extend the belay device with a sling and attach the backup knot on you belay loop.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post-90517165760377608312010-06-15T18:33:08.998-07:002010-06-15T18:33:08.998-07:00not entirely sure I see "how" it causes ...not entirely sure I see "how" it causes the buckle to slip. Might because none of my harnesses are new enough to have this feature :) A picture of what causes it to loosen, or a diagram would be helpful.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post-38905658550876397292010-06-15T16:50:28.213-07:002010-06-15T16:50:28.213-07:00Or just extend the ATC with a girth hitched runner...Or just extend the ATC with a girth hitched runner (knotted in the middle). This lets you 1) keep your hands in a more comfortable position and 2) use an autoblock attached to the belay loop (very short loop of 6mil cord).Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post-61448634802665891082010-06-15T11:36:05.219-07:002010-06-15T11:36:05.219-07:00This did happen to me. I started to rappel from th...This did happen to me. I started to rappel from the top of a climb and the leg loop that the auto block was clipped to released. Since the end of the leg loop was stitched back (Black Diamond) it caught there. No harm done but it was a disconcerting moment. My next harness purchase was one without adjustable leg loops.Unknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05702212089990864434noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post-32579356459604184772010-06-15T09:23:51.426-07:002010-06-15T09:23:51.426-07:00What is the worse that could happen if you leg loo...What is the worse that could happen if you leg loop was loosened a bit? The amount of travel the friction knot will realize on the "brake" rope is minimal; anything more than minimal and you probably have more unrelated problems than your autoblock function. I typically girth hitch the autoblock behind the buckle on the leg loop, where it lives, wrap it a few times around the brake rope and then attach it with a nano to the leg loop. vincent p.,MS-DCAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post-42602780466570804402010-06-15T06:54:07.524-07:002010-06-15T06:54:07.524-07:00Another great post!
I've been reading the blo...Another great post!<br /><br />I've been reading the blog for years and the technique posts have always been very helpful or good reminders.<br /><br />(Also love the funny videos for weekend warriors) ;)<br /><br />Keep up the good work!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com