tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post4532071024626277035..comments2024-03-14T10:07:59.760-07:00Comments on American Alpine Institute - Climbing Blog: Toprope Climbing Belay TechniqueErin-Leigh Hardyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10781785451497618508noreply@blogger.comBlogger4125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post-11666671340020539302019-02-02T23:05:35.888-08:002019-02-02T23:05:35.888-08:00There is nothing inherently wrong with SSS as long...There is nothing inherently wrong with SSS as long as it's practiced properly, i.e. with the belayer focusing all their attention on their job instead of chatting, gawking, or listening to their tunes, all common occurrences I see in climbing gyms where most newbies seem to start nowadays. PBUS was invented as a defense to such distractions, but I think the proper way to address weaknesses in one's belay technique isn't to dumb it down but to enforce the proper method and remind the belayer of the consequences of not doing it right. I note that PBUS is a rather recent invention, certainly since the spread of indoor climbing gyms, that prior methods were seen as perfectly acceptable by the editors of "Mountaineering - Freedom of the Hills" through their 8th edition, and that SSS is still seen as acceptable when providing a body belay. Even "assisted braking devices" (i.e. GriGris and other such camming devices) are now recognized as requiring a hand on the brake strand at all times, something not seen in their early marketing literature. There is no substitute for an attentive belayer, not even PBUS.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post-83803895635642799352013-10-22T13:10:55.246-07:002013-10-22T13:10:55.246-07:00I teach this technique a slightly different way, w...I teach this technique a slightly different way, where the "U" stands for "Under" - transferring the guide hand to grab under the brake hand. I find it often necessary to emphasise the necessity of grabbing under the brake hand to ensure it can slide up the rope without having to let go. I teach the "S" as a simple "Slide".Willishttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07892809774847081765noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post-85212231189240411052013-10-22T11:40:46.215-07:002013-10-22T11:40:46.215-07:00Thanks for the note Alan. I have made the appropri...Thanks for the note Alan. I have made the appropriate edit.<br /><br />JasonJason Martinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00545776792926716502noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post-80076829850812284942013-10-22T11:37:54.096-07:002013-10-22T11:37:54.096-07:00This is a particularly bad context in which to mix...This is a particularly bad context in which to mix up "break" and "brake"AlanLhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04820194790550072204noreply@blogger.com