tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post5264243063538578333..comments2024-03-14T10:07:59.760-07:00Comments on American Alpine Institute - Climbing Blog: Pre-Equalized AnchorsErin-Leigh Hardyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10781785451497618508noreply@blogger.comBlogger1125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post-7477489877064822062010-06-08T14:50:25.143-07:002010-06-08T14:50:25.143-07:00Unfortunately, all of the videos shown above assum...Unfortunately, all of the videos shown above assume the direction of fall is down. While this may be the case when belaying a second, if you are swapping leads an additional anchor point should be used to prevent a strong upward force from destroying the anchor system. I seem to remember reading about an accident in one of the AAJ a few years ago that described a bad lead fall (with blown gear) that generated forces in an unanticipated direction resulting in both climbers being injured or killed.The Ice Doghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18039059937644405700noreply@blogger.com