tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post6880830583480823926..comments2024-03-14T10:07:59.760-07:00Comments on American Alpine Institute - Climbing Blog: The Euro Death KnotErin-Leigh Hardyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10781785451497618508noreply@blogger.comBlogger2125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post-47861696222597087022019-05-10T15:04:49.930-07:002019-05-10T15:04:49.930-07:00This knot is more accurately described as an '...This knot is more accurately described as an 'Offset overhand bend'.<br />The term 'offset' refers to the fact that the core of the knot is displaced from the 'axis of tension'.<br />The nominal load that this offset knot needs to withstand is the weight of 1 person. In a typical retrievable abseil setup, the knot only experiences 50% of the total load.<br />The threshold of instability (where a capsizing event would be triggered) is above 4kN. Furthermore, it is possible to rotate the knot structure so that one of the Standing Parts (SParts) induces a choking effect which in turn retards instability (ie raises the threshold load where instability is triggered).<br />Provided the knot is properly and diligently dressed and set - no further 'backup' knot is required. And extra long tails aren't necessary.<br />When joining 2 ropes of differing diameter, orient the thinner diameter rope so it is positioned underneath the larger rope.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post-2692261345691631092011-06-13T13:28:36.669-07:002011-06-13T13:28:36.669-07:00So should we be calling this the "Euro double...So should we be calling this the "Euro double death" knot?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com