tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post7903534016743875035..comments2024-03-14T10:07:59.760-07:00Comments on American Alpine Institute - Climbing Blog: The West Ridge of Forbidden PeakErin-Leigh Hardyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10781785451497618508noreply@blogger.comBlogger3125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post-49421318873983501692011-07-15T07:48:34.216-07:002011-07-15T07:48:34.216-07:00To answer your question, no the blue cordalette is...To answer your question, no the blue cordalette is not really that bad, but why would you do this? The key to rap anchors is simplicity and being sure you are slinging something solid. In this case both of the blocks that were slung were solid. The person who used this cordalette could have just slung the block with the red sling and taken out there knife and cut off the yellow sling and put it in their pack. The poor attempt at equalization did not work at all which wasted time when they built it and continued a northwest tradition of adding unneeded webbing and other crap to anchors. I removed 10 pieces of webbing from a single anchor while I was descending this route the other day because there was so much stuff on the anchor I was not able to determine if it was good. <br /><br />In short a rap anchor is fine with one or two pieces of webbing around a single solid block. If the webbing that is there is faded, cut it off and put a new one on.Alasdair Turnerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07017829212306923822noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post-86251700974091919542011-07-14T23:54:22.977-07:002011-07-14T23:54:22.977-07:00Impressive!!Impressive!!L'univers de Swannhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07478422951884775444noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352166344614826568.post-58162461666860795912011-07-13T08:08:29.447-07:002011-07-13T08:08:29.447-07:00Honest question: Is the blue cordalette really th...Honest question: Is the blue cordalette really that bad? If I read the pic correctly:<br />Yellow (faded) sling is around one 'boulder'. Red sling is around a different 'boulder'. Rap ring is only into red sling, climber only into yellow. The cordalette seems to go around background boulder and the yellow sling. Admittedly would be better if not cord-on-sling, but if no extra leavers are avail, it does back up the rap ring. I understand that cordalette isn't equalized etc., but it's a rap station (correct), so a compromise, done with relatively min.length of cord. Messy and not the most efficient solution, but I can see the reasoning. ??Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com