Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Ascending Systems

There are a million ascending systems out there. On this blog we have previously discussed jugging with mechanical ascenders, the prusik hitch and climbing the rope with an autoblocking device. These are all excellent techniques for climbing up a rope...but it doesn't mean that they're the only techniques.

Climbers are ultimately artists and part of the art of climbing is picking the right tool at the right time to get up or down something. As a result, the more things that you know, the more tools that you have in your toolbox. And the more things that you know, the more improvisational you can be in any type of climbing situation.

This blog will provide you with another option for climbing up a rope. To set-up this system, you will need a mechanical ascender, a GriGri and a double-shoulder length sling. The following photo shows how each of these components will be used.


Following are the steps that you will need to complete in order to make this system work:
  1. Clip the mechanical ascender to the rope.
  2. Clip a double-shoulder length sling to the base of the ascender. This will become your be for your foot.
  3. Clip a carabiner to the top of the ascender, trapping the rope inside the ascender.
  4. Run the rope through your GriGri below the ascender.
  5. Redirect the rope from the break-hand of the GriGri up through the clip that is trapping the ascender on the rope.
Once this is set-up you're ready to jug. Put your foot into the foot-sling and then stand up. Once you are standing, pull the backside of the rope through the GriGri. Sit back on the GriGri, kick you knee up to your chest and push the jug up the rope. Repeat until you're at the top.

One important thing to always remember is that you will need to tie back-up "catastrophe knots" in the rope as you climb. This should happen every ten feet or so. One should never forget to do this, as occasionally GriGris slip.

Obviously, the only way to really dial in this system is to practice it. The best way to work through this system is to print this blog out, bring it out into the field and then make it happen!

--Jason D. Martin
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5 comments:

  1. ChrisKAugust 15, 2012 at 11:32 PM

    This is a *great* system for ascending, and you can strip it down even farther to have as a backup: use a Tibloc with HMS biner instead of a big ascender, and use an autolocking belay device (Reverso 3, ATC Guide) instead of the Gri-Gri.

    The additional weight of the Tibloc is minimal, and this system works *way* better than using prusiks!

    ReplyDelete
  2. JonAugust 16, 2012 at 3:18 PM

    This system is also called the Rapid Ascent and Descent (RAD) system by Petzl. I was taught it for climbing photography and arborists use it a lot. To descend you release the ascender and lower with the Gri Gri.
    A diagram is here:
    http://jonclimbingon.blogspot.com/2010/05/climbing-photography.html

    Thanks Chris for the lighter version, good to know

    ReplyDelete
  3. AnonymousAugust 17, 2012 at 7:39 AM

    Given the lack of redundancy with the grigri, shouldn't the ascender have an additional sling attached to the belay loop of the harness in case the grigri "occasionally slips"?

    seems like a simple way to provide a redundant and therefore safer system....

    ReplyDelete
  4. Jason MartinAugust 17, 2012 at 8:04 AM

    Sure, that would help. Another option for redundancy would be an occasional catastrophe knot...

    Jason

    ReplyDelete
  5. climbing gear listAugust 22, 2012 at 3:02 AM

    This system is also called the Rapid Ascent and Descent (RAD) system by Petzl. I was taught it for climbing photography and arborists use it a lot. To descend you release the ascender and lower with the Gri Gri.

    ReplyDelete

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