Denali - 20,320 ft / 6194 m
Route: West RibDifficulty: Alaska Grade IV, 60-degree ice
Season: April to mid-July
West Rib route in orange |
Giant glaciers and a horizon full of rock, snow and ice set the background for climbers in Alaska. Of the countless mountains, Denali
stands at the top of the list as an alluring challenge and iconic peak. The Seven Summits are well known and Denali stands as one of the most difficult
peaks to climb. For many, the West Buttress remains a popular choice and
the majority of ascents are via this route. Climbers desiring a more difficult
route are rewarded with the aesthetic West Rib on the south face of Denali.
Camp at 11,000 ft |
While the West Rib is a step down from the neighboring
Cassin Ridge, it is significantly harder than the West Buttress. Landing on the
Kahiltna glacier, climbers branch off the main climbing path and travel up the
Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna. This is a notoriously dangerous area and
carries a foreboding name: the Valley of Death. Hanging glaciers and seracs
flank either side of the glacier here and devastating avalanches can cross the
entire valley at any time. Timing and efficiency are essential to safe passage.
Moving between areas of safety, climbers work their way up the glacier and
through an icefall to reach the base of the West Rib. A 1200 ft couloir starting
at 11,200 ft allows climbers access to the true ridge.
Aerial shot of the West Rib (main ridge running right to left in center of photo) |
Ascending the Chicken Couloir to gain access to the ridge. |
Following a direct line up 9000 ft of ridge, West Rib teams
make multiple camps as they move up the mountain in expedition style. Two snow
domes offer crux ice bulges that steepen to 50 degrees. The route varies
between ridge climbing, snow and ice slopes, and steep couloirs with rock,
snow, and ice protection. A camp at 15,700 ft provides a descent option to 14,000-foot
Camp on the West Buttress route. This is also the route climbers on the West
Rib Cutoff will follow on their ascent. From a high camp at 17,000 ft, parties
climb the final 3300 ft to the summit. Descent options include bringing all
your gear in a carry over and descending the full West Buttress or returning to
high camp and descending the West Rib Cutoff variation.
Gaining the Upper West Rib |
Often times the objective danger is too high in the
Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna and West Rib parties complete a variation of the
route. Ascending the West Buttress route, climbers split from the route at
14,000 ft and join the Upper West Rib. This option allows climbers to enjoy the
upper 5000 ft of the ridge and not subject themselves to the avalanche dangers
of the lower mountain.
For people with a strong climbing background or who have already climbed Denali via a different route, the West Rib offers a remarkable climb in the pure spirit of Alaska!
Approaching Denali via the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna. |
Climber on the West Rib |
Descending the summit ridge of Denali. Mount Foraker is in the background.
Sound like a sweet trip? Find more information on the West Rib Expedition.
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--Dylan Cembalski, Seven Summits Coordinator and Guide
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