Three-Piece Pre-Equalized Anchors

In cooperation with Outdoor Research, the American Mountain Guides Association has made several videos for beginning level climbers.

In the following video, former AAI Guide and AMGA Instructor Team Member, Angela Hawse demonstrates several techniques for the creation of a three-piece "pre-equalized" anchor. The anchor is pre-equalized because of the fact that the knots in the system will only allow for equalization in one direction.



At the end of the video, three major points were made:

1) Create a high master point.

2) There are multiple ways to create equalization.

3) Strong anchors are mandatory. Your life depends on it.

The video did not talk about placement quality. If you have concerns about the quality of a piece of gear, replace it, or add another piece to the system.

--Jason D. Martin