Training: Deadhangs

The Climbing Movement Essential Training Series on Youtube is kind of awesome. The series is composed of a number of well produced videos that focus on different aspects of training for climbing.

This particular video focuses on deadhangs. A deadhang is essentially just hanging from a hold. The longer you can do a deadhang, the stronger you likely are.



In review:

1. Select 5 hold types. And make sure that you can hang from them for 2 to 12 seconds.
2. You will do one deadhang on each hold (each hand).
3. There should be a 90-second rest between deadhangs.
4. Failure should take place in 12 seconds or less. If you can hold on for longer than 12-seconds, then you should choose different holds.
5. Keep track of your time and identify holds that are harder for you. Work on those and establish goals and benchmarks to measure your ability.

And as always, be sure to warm up before using a hangboard. Those things can be dangerous to your tendons!

--Jason D. Martin