Training: Lockoffs and Campusing

The Climbing Movement Essential Training Series on Youtube is kind of awesome. The series is composed of a number of well produced videos that focus on different aspects of training for climbing.

The ability to lockoff your arms right after pulling up is a key movement to steep climbing on both rock and ice. This video explores some workout techniques that you might use to train for this.



In review:

1. Set-up a campus sequence using big holds. The goal here is to set-up a sequence where you can lock off each move for 3 seconds.
2. 3 Campus sequences in the wall, with three sets and 90-seconds of rest between sets.
3. You will climb up and down using this technique until you're brought to failure.
4. Failure should happen in 20-40 seconds. If you can hold on longer than 40-seconds, change the holds and make it harder.
5. Keep track of your time.
6. And practice!

--Jason D. Martin