Thursday, August 31, 2017

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 8/25/17


--The Adventure Journal is reporting that, "After 10 years of planning, permitting, and fundraising, the Spearhead huts project is finally under way. BC Parks gave its final approval to begin construction of a system of three backcountry huts along the popular Spearhead Traverse in British Columbia’s Garibaldi Provincial Park, and The Alpine Club of Canada and the Spearhead Huts Society officially broke ground last week on the Kees and Claire Hut at Russet Lake." To read more, click here.

The White Pass to Chinook Pass section of the
PCT is extremely popular with beginning level backpackers.

--Due to a fire, the Pacific Crest Trail is closed from White Pass north to Chinook Pass. To read more, click here.


--It appears that there was a fatality on Cathedral Peak this week. To read more, click here.

--Outside Online has a great report on the never-ending battle to keep the air clean from car pollution in Yosemite Valley. To read the article, click here.

--And speaking of Yosemite, there are several fires in and around the park and many roads are closed. To read more, click here.

--There is a large fire near Camp Nelson on Highway 190. This may be an issue for people trying to access the Needles. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--A canyoneering guide was injured this week in a fall near St. George, Utah. The St. George news is reporting, "A man was flown to the hospital Saturday morning after falling approximately 100 feet while rappelling in Birch Hollow. The man fell the day before, but by the time crews reached him, it was too late to get him out that day. When the incident was first reported Friday afternoon, Kane County Search and Rescue crews were shuttled to the man’s location via Classic Air Medical out of Kanab, Kane County Sheriff’s Chief Deputy Alan Alldredge said." To read more, click here.

--The LA Times is reporting that, "a 10,000 reward has been offered for information leading to the safe return of a couple reported missing in July in Joshua Tree National Park." To read more, click here.


--The Adventure Journal is reporting that, "It’s been a deadly summer on Capitol Peak, Colorado. In six weeks, five climbers have died on the technical fourteener. On Saturday, a 21-year-old climber fell to his death in the Knife Edge Ridge portion of the climb, apparently after attempting a shortcut descent that led to a 600-foot cliff. Pitkin County Sheriff’s Sergeant Jesse Steindler said the climber fell in the same area as an Aspen couple who died on the peak last week. All three bodies were found in a similar location, beneath the steep north face near Capitol Lake. Local authorities have yet to release the recently deceased climber’s identity." To read more, click here.

--An all women's adventure film festival will take place in Carbondale between September 14 and 17. To read more, click here. To see a trailer for the No Man's Land Film Festival, click below:

--Climbing magazine is looking for interns. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over: is reporting that, "National Park Service rangers have rescued two injured climbers in separate incidents in Grand Teton National Park in northwest Wyoming over a three-day period." To read more, click here.

--Somebody shot at rock climbers in Utah's Little Cottonwood Canyon recently. To read more, click here.

--There is limited information, but it appears that a climber took a very serious fall in Kentucky. To read the limited information available, click here.

--Gripped magazine is reporting that Search and Rescue numbers are up this year in Canada. To read about it, click here.

--The Outdoor Alliance is reporting that, " Last Thursday, Secretary Zinke delivered his final recommendation on the future of 27 National Monuments to President Trump and released to the public only a short, 2-page “summary” of this report that provided scant details on his recommendations. Bizarrely, Sec. Zinke claims that that providing an “adequate public process” was part of the impetus for the review, yet the review process has closed out the public at every turn. The report summary summarily dismisses more than 99% of the 2.5 million public comments gathered during the review as part of a “well- orchestrated national campaign.” Interior has not shared any of the (seemingly arbitrary) criteria it has used to determine which monuments will be affected, and Secretary Zinke has still refused to release his full recommendations to the public." To read more, click here.

--The Denver Post is reporting that, The National Park Service has several big problems with NRA-backed legislation that would restrict the agency from regulating hunting and fishing within park boundaries. But according to a leaked memo obtained by McClatchy, the Trump administration has so far prevented the parks from voicing such concerns. National Park Service Acting Director Michael Reynolds prepared a June 30 memo detailing his agency’s objections to the draft legislation, the 'Sportsmen’s Heritage and Recreational Enhancement Act.' Under the bill, the National Park Service would be prevented from regulating the hunting of bears and wolves in Alaska wildlife preserves, including the practice of killing bear cubs in their dens. It also would be prevented from regulating commercial and recreational fishing within park boundaries and from commenting on development projects outside park boundaries that could affect the parks." To read more, click here.

--The American Alpine Club recently purchased the Rattlesnake Campground in Rumney, NH...! To read more, click here.

--A production team currently has a kickstarter campaign running for a film about women climbing all over the world. The film, Pretty Strong, is about five elite female climbers and their travels. To read more, click here.

Thursday, August 24, 2017

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 8/24/17


--The Bellingham Herald is reporting that, "A climber was killed and his companion was seriously hurt Saturday afternoon when they fell into a glacial crevasse near Mount Baker, officials said. Whatcom County Sheriff Bill Elfo said the man who died was an active-duty member of the U.S. armed forces." To read more, click here. The identity of the victim and the cause of death was released, here.

Read more here:

--The Seattle Times is reporting that, "The body of a 61-year-old Bellingham woman and mountaineer has been recovered from a glacier in North Cascades National Park. North Cascades National Park Service spokeswoman Denise Shultz says search-and-rescue personnel from North Cascades and Mount Rainier national parks recovered Susan Bennett’s body Saturday." To read more, click here.

--The Bellingham Herald is reporting that, "The body of a 30-year-old skier who went missing from Mount Rainier last month after he fell through a snowbridge was found at the bottom of a waterfall, the park said." To read more, click here.

--An individual canyoneering near Wallace Falls near Gold Bar was seriously injured after making a rappelling mistake this week. To read more, click here.

Read more here:
--A group of Boy Scouts put out a wildfire before it became a problem...

--The Diamond Creek Fire in the Pasayten Wilderness has definitely stopped more than one climbing or backpacking trip this season. has been keeping track of it, here.

--The Access Fund is reporting that, "Last month, Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC) and Access Fund launched the multi-year Washington Climbing Conservation Initiative to improve sustainability of popular climbing areas like the Gold Bar Boulders, Index, Tieton, and Exit 38’s Far Side." To read more, click here.


--Here is a recent SAR report from Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park. There were four recent incidents.

--The Sierra Wave is reporting that, "The Reds Meadow Road has been selected for a California Federal Lands Access Program (CA FLAP) Project, preliminarily funded in 2022, based on availability of funding." To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--The Las Vegas Review-Journal is reporting that, "Clark County District Court Judge Jerry Wiese declined to rule from the bench Thursday on motions to dismiss a lawsuit challenging plans to build more than 5,000 homes atop a hill bordering the Red Rock National Conservation Area. Wiese told attorneys representing Clark County, mining company Gypsum Resources and environmental nonprofit Save Red Rock that he will make a ruling within one month." To read more, click here.

--Red Rock Canyon is increasing amenity fees. To keep up to date on this, join the Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition Facebook Group. Check out the new proposed rates below:

(click to enlarge)


--A climber who suffered a broken leg near Fish Creek Road was plucked up by a Blackhawk Helicopter this week. To read more, click here.

--Mountaineer David Cook has been missing in the Maroon Bells area since September. A recent search for remains has come up empty. To read more, click here.

--The Denver Post is reporting that, "Colorado’s 61 all-volunteer, nonprofit search-and-rescue teams are the first line of defense protecting the state’s surging population of outdoor enthusiasts. And those volunteers have never been busier. Across the state’s high country, rescue teams are seeing more calls for help as a surge of adventurers find that the mountains — especially along the Front Range — can be unforgiving even if they’re easy to get to. 'Our total calls have been steadily increasing,' said Jeff Sparhawk of Boulder’s Rocky Mountain Rescue Group, the state’s busiest search team." To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--The Billings Gazette is reporting that, "A Utah climber who was seriously injured in a fall after summiting the Grand Teton on Friday was evacuated by Grand Teton National Park rangers via helicopter." To read more, click here.

--A stuck soloist was lucky that a local guide showed up in the Adirondacks. Apparently the soloist got stuck at the crux of Shipton's Voyage (5.4, 100'). Eventually a local guide showed up and was able to tie the soloist in with a bowline and get him off the route. To read more, click here.

--Climbing magazine is reporting that, "On Friday, August 18, Andrew “Bob/Ducky” Harris became the first person with Down Syndrome to summit the Grand Teton." To read more, click here.

--The Aspen Times is reporting that, "the new ski conglomerate affiliated with Aspen Skiing Co. made another move Monday by reaching an agreement to acquire Deer Valley Resort in Utah. The new ski company, which is still unnamed, said the purchase is anticipated to be completed prior to the 2017-18 ski season. Deer Valley, regarded as one of the more luxurious resorts in the ski industry, is the 13th resort to get folded into the company." To read more, click here.

Monday, August 21, 2017

Women's Baker Skills and Climb: A Photo Essay

You never conquer a mountain. You stand on the summit a few brief minutes and then the wind blows away your footprints
-Arlene Blum

The attitude that Arlene Blum maintains in this quote is one that many mountaineers share, in some cases the summit is not attained, in others it is, in some cases you are battling the mountain to try to conquer it, in other cases you are working in sync and harmony with the mountain, letting it tell you whether today is your day. Good planning, a solid foundation of skills, and realistic expectations help with making a decision like this in the mountains. And, having an incredible group of Women venture into the wilderness together, to learn, laugh, and support one another, rain or shine, is what made this weekend on Mount Baker a memorable and meaningful trip.

Day 1: Approach to Low Camp

On Friday, June 16 we met at AAI Headquarters in Bellingham, WA. Conducted an intensive gear check to ensure everyone was set up for success with their clothing, technical gear, and camping and cooking gear. We then set off for the North Side of Mount Baker and started our approach from the Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead (3600) to our base camp (6000).

Erin-Leigh's skillfully packs her food into portions for 2 breakfasts, 2 dinners, and 3 lunches
photo by Erin-Leigh Hardy

The team of ladies are ready! But first we must take an obligatory Trailhead photo.
Photo by Pete Riewald

Christie and Sara cross a Snow bridge covering a small stream (branch of the Kulshan Creek) crossing
Photo by Alejandra Garcés Pozo

Sangeeta and Jeanna extend their trekking poles in preparation for the Kulshan Creek Crossing
Photo by Alejandra Garcés Pozo
Sara balances her way across the log at the Kulshan Creek Crossing
Photo by Alejandra Garcés Pozo 

The team taking a snack break before working their way up the Hogsback ridge.
Photo by Alejandra Garcés Pozo

Working our way up the Hogsback Ridge, nearly to camp
Photo by Sara Jung

Sara shares her stoke for our awesome view of Mount Baker while we set up camp

Photo by Erin-Leigh Hardy

The sun begins to set after a long first day up to Hogsback Camp 

Photo by Sangeeta Sakaria

Day 2: Skills on the terminus of the Coleman Glacier 

On Saturday, we woke up at base camp, cooked breakfast while discussing topics such as glaciology, and tour planning for our objective the following day. We then set off for a tour around the terminus of the Coleman glacier, up the Hogsback Headwall while covering Snow School, roped glacier travel, and finished our day with demonstrations on Self Arrest and a two-person rope team scenario for Crevasse Rescue. We then went to sleep early for our Alpine start the following morning

AAI Guide Alejandra explains tour planning and discusses the many ways to plan and "backwards plan" for the following day.
Photo by Alejandra Garcés Pozo 

Panorama of Hogsback camp 
Photo by Alejandra Garcés Pozo

AAI Guide Alejandra demonstrates different cramponing techniques for walking on snow
Photo by Sara Jung

The team works their way up the Hogsback Headwall to practice Roped Glacier Travel

Photo by Alejandra Garcés Pozo
AAI Guide Alejandra and team members, Jeanna and Erin-Leigh pose for a picture while discussing snow protection in the context of pickets, and ice axes
Photo by Christie Summers

Day 3: Summit attempt of the Coleman-Deming Route on Mount Baker

The rope team takes their first break above the Hogsback headwall, having spent the last hour in hail, rain and low visibility Photo by Alejandra Garcés Pozo
The whiteout conditions continue.. and the team maintains good morale

Photo by Alejandra Garcés Pozo

... and psych for the objective :)
Photo by Christie Summers

After a discussion about the conditions and our planned timeline for our trip, the team collectively decided to turn back, but not before having a glacial dance party

Photo by Alejandra Garcés Pozo

There's nothing quite like Reggeaton in a whiteout at 8,500 feet
video by Alejandra Garcés Pozo

A hasty descent down the Hogsback ridge from our summit attempt after tearing down camp
Photo by Alejandra Garcés Pozo 

At the Kulshan Creek Crossing we met Karen, who was taking her friend hiking for her first time and helping her across the precarious log crossing

Photo by Alejandra Garcés Pozo

Our Team near the trail head after an incredible weekend on Mount Baker
Photo by Karen

Upon arriving to the trail head, we quickly loaded the van, changed into a fresh set of clothes and began our drive to Bellingham. The 3 days of bonding and learning opened us up to eachother more than we realized. Sara suggested we all share three things we were most thankful for. This could extend to the trip, the day, or anything in life at that moment. The participation of everyone on the team made for a beautiful moment of positive energy, personal achievements, empowerment, self assessment,  growth and stronger bonds within the group. Watching this team of strong women push themselves, encourage each other and grow individually as mountaineers was truly an incredible thing to be a part of.

--Alejandra Garcés Pozo, AAI Instructor and Guide

Friday, August 18, 2017

Angle and Force in an Anchor

You've heard before, and I'll say it again. The lower the angle between the pieces in an anchor, the better equalized the anchor will be.

What does this actually mean?

Well, first it means that the American Death Triangle is really bad...

The American Death Triangle = Death

And second it means that...

If an anchor is composed of two pieces, and one piece is directly above the other piece, and you are using a pre-equalized knot on a cordellete clipped to the pieces, then you are likely to be close to completely equalized at your master-point. The photo below shows a three piece anchor with low angles between the pieces. The low angles make this a very good anchor. However, due to the fact that the pieces are not completely in line with one another, the anchor cannot be truly equalized.

A Very Good Pre-Equalized Anchor  on bolts that is Not Truly Equalized
Guides believe that this is an acceptable anchor.

Note: The rope running through the shelf is a means to decrease the 
likelihood of a factor 2 fall on the anchor.

Some may find minor concerns with the different lengths of cord in the preceding picture. Most guides are not concerned about this.

When the angle on a two-point anchor increases, so too does the load on each piece. The theory is that when there is no or a very low angle -- under 20 degrees -- the pieces are close to equalized. When the angle increases to 40 degrees, then 54% of the load is on each piece. As the angle increases to 80 degrees, then 70% of the load is on each piece. And when the angle increases to 120 degrees, then 100% of the load is on each piece.

The following chart from the Technical Manual for Mountain Guides from the AMGA, demonstrates this with proposed weight of 1000 pounds.

The video savvy Canadian guide, Mike Barter, put together a great video on this subject for He uses a number of visual demonstrations throughout the video to show how weight affects an anchor as the angle increases. Check out the video below:

--Jason D. Martin


This is the second time we've posted this blog. And after I posted it the first time a couple of years ago an extremely valid comment was made. I thought that it would be prudent to post the comment as well as my response:

Anonymous said...
I hate to flame people trying to put good information out for the public, but I thought his demonstration was pretty silly. First off(although it really wasn't important for the demonstration) he had the knot of the cordelette directly on the carabiner of one of his "anchors". You think that an IFMGA guide wouldn't do this even in a demonstration. His demonstration really didn't show the increase in force on the anchor, but the change in the direction of pull. I think he could of easily done this by attaching a simple fish scale to each anchor.

Jason Martin said...
I also thought about the knot on the carabiner when I found this video. The knot on the carabiner does weaken the cordellete mildly. But not really enough for it to matter.

In addition to this, lets remember what this blog is about. It's about how angle impacts individual pieces...and I think that the video does a great job of demonstrating this...


Friday, August 11, 2017

Search and Rescue Costs

Should climbers and other outdoor enthusiasts have to pay for rescue...?

Many non-climbers feel that climbing related rescues should be paid for by those that are rescued. However, many of these same individuals do not feel that hiking related, hunting related, or boating related rescues should be paid for by the individuals that are rescued. Of course, every year there are a lot more yachters and wayward Boy Scouts that are rescued than climbers.

Mountain rescue in the United States is generally managed by the Sheriff's department or the Park Service, depending on the location. The actual rescue though is usually done by mountain rescue volunteers or the military.

Las Vegas Metro Police Department Search and Rescue Practice in Red Rock Canyon
Photo from LVMPD S&R Website

Some cities maintain full-time Search and Rescue police officers. Places like Las Vegas and Los Angeles County send out their Search and Rescue officers nearly every day to deal with everything from boaters to ATV riders to people who took a wrong turn during a flood. Climbers make up a very small percentage of their rescue costs... But tax dollars certainly do support these operations.

Mountain rescue volunteers work for the satisfaction of providing assistance to those in need. They do not cost the government or the tax payers anything. The military operations that are used in rescues often employ individuals who are rescue specialists and would be training to do rescues anyway. As a result, the funds that go into these rescues are not as exhorbinant as many people might believe.

A law in New Hampshire forces those who are rescued to pay for their rescues. WMUR Channel 9 New Hampshire reported that:

A New Hampshire law aims to make people think twice before heading into the woods unprepared or under the influence.

The state Department of Fish and Game currently fines lost hikers who recklessly venture into the woods to pay for the cost of the rescue, but now the department will have the power to revoke the driver's licenses of those who don't pay. Hikers can also lose licenses with the state Health and Human Services Department, and hunting and fishing licenses.

The law also gives the state more power over who they decide to fine. Previously, the state had to prove someone acted recklessly before charging a hiker for repayment for a rescue. This meant the state had to show the hiker or hikers were aware going into the woods posed a substantial risk but they did it anyway. Now the state only has to prove the person was negligent.

While many rescues are of those who were negligent, there are a lot of rescues that take place where an individual made an honest mistake. The downside to laws such as this is that mountain activities have the look and feel of danger, even when they aren't terribly dangerous. Other wilderness users -- whether they do something that is negligent or not -- may not look like they are putting themselves in peril. The result is that climbers will likely bear the brunt of such laws.

Two Climbers Practice Rescue Techniques in a Single Pitch Instructor Course
Photo by Jason Martin

Indeed, who will decide if a given action is negligent or not? An experienced climber might try a hard route in a light-and-fast manner. Somewhere high on the route a hold breaks and he shatters his ankle. Were this brought to court after a rescue, that climber...even though he did everything right...might be charged for negligence. Why? It's a hard route and he didn't have a lot of equipment.

If a climber that is carrying seventy pounds of food and fuel up a glaciated peak decides to glissade with his crampons on and breaks an ankle, he might be seen as playing it safe and the idea of negligence might never come up. This is despite the fact that he was using an innapropriate technique at an innappropriate time.

Rescues take place in the mountains every day and climbers make up a very small percentage of those that are rescued. This issue always comes to a head when something bad happens to a climber, but it never comes up when something bad happens to another wilderness user. We are unfairly targetted by those that have little knowledge of what happens in the wilderness.

Creating laws that require negligent people to pay for rescues is a step in the wrong direction. It is far too difficult for the courts to delve into the idea of what is negligent in this field and what is not. Our main concern is that any type of climbing activity -- regardless of the experience level and training of the participant -- may be seen as negligent.

--Jason D. Martin

Tuesday, August 8, 2017

Snow Seats and Dynamic Belays

Standard snow anchors are comprised of pickets, flukes, bollards and deadmen. As stated in previous blogs, sometimes people overlook items that might be used as deadmen such as packs, crampons, ice axes, skis, trekking poles, and stuff sacks filled with snow.

Quick snow anchors can be devised from just about anything...including your body.

Most of you are probably familiar with Simon Yates and his infamous snow seat in Touching the Void. To say the least, that was an unusual situation.

Photo by Jason Martin

To create a quick snow seat you must simply sit down in the snow, arc your legs, and stomp your heels into the snow. After you've achieved this position, you will be able to put a climber on belay. However, if the climber takes a fall with slack in the rope, it is possible that you may be pulled out of the snow seat. There are two ways to keep this from happening.

The first way to deal with a potential shock-load in a snow seat is to add a snow anchor to back it up. This could be anything, but many climbers will simply use their ice axe. The belayer must then clip the climbing rope (which is tied to the climbers harness) to the snow anchor. Most will just make a clove-hitch with the rope and then slide the shaft of the ice axe down through the hitch. If the belayer has elected to use a hip belay, the tie-in must come off the same side of the climber's body as rope running to the climber, otherwise the load will twist the belayer uncomfortably.
The second way to deal with this is by using a dynamic belay. In other words, when the climber falls, allow the rope to run through the belay device for a short period of time, slowly breaking it and bringing it to a stop. This allows the snow seat -- and you -- a much smaller shock. There are clearly some problems with this technique and it cannot be used in every situation. The dynamic belay is only truly useful on steep snow climbs where there is little danger of a falling climber hitting something.

If we learned one thing from the Simon Yates in Touching the Void, it's that snow seats are an excellent option in terrain where you do not anticipate a need to escape the belay. If there is anything suspect going on, it's important to build a bombproof SERENE/ERNEST anchor.

When used properly, snow seats and dynamic belays can save a great deal of time...and as we all know, speed in the mountains is safety...

--Jason D. Martin

Thursday, August 3, 2017

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 8/3/17


--The Bellingham Herald is reporting that, "A Bellingham woman’s body will remain on a North Cascades glacier indefinitely, as a recovery team decided Monday that a mission to the site is too dangerous. Well-known mountaineer Susan Bennett, 61, died July 22 in a fall while descending Forbidden Peak, one of the region’s most treacherous rock faces. A helicopter rescue crew located her body in a 30-foot crevasse on Forbidden Glacier, but could not reach her. Two other attempts were aborted." To read more, click here.

Read more here:

--The Seattle Times is reporting that, "Olympic National Park officials are weighing several options to remove mountain goats from the park, including a plan to capture and relocate as many of the animals as possible and shooting others." To read more, click here.

Washington Wildfire Risk is High!
(click to enlarge)

--The risk of wildfire in Washington State is high. Campfire restrictions are in effect. To read more, click here.


--The Grant Fire in the June Lake Loop is now up to 400-acres and is only 15% contained. To read more, click here.

--A second fire is burning in the John Muir Wilderness. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--Two hikers have been missing in Joshua Tree National Park for a week in extreme temperatures. To read more, click here.


--Vail is trying to become the first fully sustainable tourist destination. To read about this, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--Last year we reported on Ryan Titchener and his accident in the Bugaboos. Ryan, a mountain guide, was hit by a falling rock and suffered a broken spine and several broken ribs. He is slowly recovering and can walk once again. To read about Ryan, his accident and his recovery, click here.

--Gripped is reporting that, "Russian ice climber Pavel Batushev is not allowed to compete for four years. He has been banned by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) after testing positive for meldonium." To read more, click here.

--Vanessa O'Brien just became the first American woman to summit K2. To read more, click here.

--The following video has been making its way around the internet. It's weird and fun and...well, weird...

--And finally, here's a breakdown of which states spend the most on outdoor recreation. The results might surprise you.

Tuesday, August 1, 2017

Book Review: My Old Man and the Mountain by Leif Whittaker

Leif Whitaker grew up in two shadows. He grew up in the shadow of a mountain, Mt. Everest. And he grew up in the shadow of a man, his father... Jim Whittaker. Jim was the first American to summit Mt. Everest. And almost fifty-years later, his son also climbed Mt. Everest...twice.

Leif's book, My Old Man and the Mountain is a beautiful piece writing, funny and sad, insightful and engaging. It chronicles both his father's experiences on Mt. Everest as well as his own.

Mountaineering literature is full of very serious stories about very serious men. And when Leif talks about his father's ascent, it feels that way. Climbing Mt. Everest in 1963 is serious business. The tone is completely different when he writes about himself. Jim Whittaker is a superhero. Leif Whittaker...well, let's just say he sees himself as a bit of a goofball, trying to figure out how he could be a superhero too... Or at least trying to figure out how to make his father proud.

Leif admits that his writing style was influenced by a combination of Ernest Hemingway, Tom Robbins, and David Sedaris. But as a voracious reader of mountaineering literature myself and former drama teacher, I see something else. His work feels similar to mountaineering writers like John Long and Andy Kirkpatrick, with a little bit of sitcom writing sprinkled on top. This combination makes My Old Man and the Mountain an incredibly fun read.

Following is a short passage recounting a moment when Leif climbed out of his tent at night to use the bathroom in a whiteout.

Where is the tent? I thought it was right behind me but, oh f*ck, it's gone. In fact, Camp 4's gone entirely, engulfed in the blizzard. A rush of fear and adrenaline runs through me like I used to get, when I was a kid and terrified of the dark, stepping outside our house at night. I could die here, just a few steps from the tent, and nobody'd be the wiser. FAMOUS CLIMBER'S SON DISAPPEARS WHILE URINATING or JIM WHITTAKER'S SON FEARED DEAD ON WORLD'S HIGHEST PEAK. The news stories will identify me as the son of Jim Whittaker, but they'll fail to mention my name. No more than a paragraph will be devoted to explaining the circumstances of my death, but the story will go on for another five pages with quotes from Dad and a description of his legendary ascent.

This is the flavor of the book. Leif is self-effacing, comic and philosophical all at the same time. He admits that he has "daddy issues." Indeed, in an interview I conducted with him for the Chuckanut Radio Hour, Leif mentioned that the story is essentially archetypal. We all have daddy issues. We all want to make our parents proud. And perhaps that's why this story -- a story of a young man trying to live up to his father's expectations -- rings so true.

Leif Whittaker

Daddy issues or not, Leif is a solid mountaineer. He proved this not only with two summits of Mt. Everest, but with a wide breadth of mountaineering experience, including work as a climbing ranger on Mt. Baker in Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. In both the book, and in his life, he demonstrates strength in the mountains that his father -- and perhaps any climber anywhere -- would be proud of.

My Old Man and the Mountain is an excellent book. It's full of comedy and insight, as well as mountain action and tragedy. It is definitely a volume worth adding to your mountaineering library...

--Jason D. Martin