Thursday, February 20, 2020

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 2/20/20


Mt. Hood from Timberline Lodge

--Oregon Live is reporting on an extreme move made recently by the Clackamas County Sheriff. "For decades, people flocking to Mount Hood could rest easy knowing a crew from one of the country’s most elite mountain rescue units would scramble to respond if adventure turned to disaster as it sometimes does on Oregon’s iconic peak. But in a stunning shift, Clackamas County Sheriff Craig Roberts plans to end his agency’s use of outside search-and-rescue groups like Portland Mountain Rescue and replace them with one of his own." To read more, click here.

--A new multi-pitch mixed line has just gone up in Squamish. To read more, click here.

--National Parks Traveler is reporting that, "There will be no quick return to Mount Rainier National Park in Washington through the Nisqually Entrance, which has been blocked by a landslide since last weekend. Washington Department of Transportation officials say it could be mid-March before two-way traffic is allowed on State Route 706 that leads to the entrance." To read more, click here.

--Somebody stole a National Forest Service sign worth nearly $2000 from a trailhead near Enumclaw.

--The Sea to Sky Gondola in Squamish has reopened. Six months ago, a cable on the gondola was cut by a vandal. To read more, click here.


--Chris Koppl and Vitaliy Musiyenko just made the first winter ascent of “Hairline” (V 5.10d C2+) on Mt. Whitney. To read about this awesome feat, click here.

Yosemite's El Capitan at Sunset

--Scoring pre-reserved campsites in Yosemite is no joke.

Desert Southwest:

--The Las Vegas Review Journal is reporting that, "Outdoor enthusiasts who want a safer outdoor option to travel to and from Red Rock Canyon could have a path to do just that. A $14.7 million, 5.5-mile trail from Sky Vista Drive in Summerlin to the visitor center at Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area is planned, pending approval Tuesday by the Clark County Commission." To read more, click here.

Colorado and Utah:

--Deseret News is reporting that, "A 33-year-old Washington, D.C., woman fell to her death while rappelling in a slot canyon near Hanksville, according to police. Fiona Heckscher was rappelling in Angel Point Cove Canyon about 9 a.m. Tuesday when she fell, according to a release from the Wayne County Sheriff’s Office." To read more, click here.

--CNN is reporting that, "A skier in Colorado died after his coat became wrapped around his head and neck on the chair lift, according to the company that operates the chair lift. The 46-year-old man from New Jersey died in a 'serious incident' on February 13, Vail Mountain said in the statement." To read more, click here.

--The Aspen Daily News is reporting that, "A 36-year-old man was rescued Sunday after sustaining a head injury while skiing near Mount Yeckel, northeast of Aspen, the Pitkin County Sheriff’s Office said in a press release Monday." To read more, click here.

--A 78-year-old Nordic skier died on Friday. Details surrounding this fatality have not been released. To read more, click here.

--The Journal is reporting that, "The 70-year-old Dallas man who hit a tree and died Saturday while skiing at Purgatory Resort was identified Sunday as Joel Eastman." To read more, click here.

--The Denver Post is reporting that, "An 83-year-old man died from injuries suffered in a skiing accident Monday at Aspen Snowmass in which officials believe he skied off the deck of a half-pipe." To read more, click here.

--The American Mountaineering Museum in Golden has an exhibit currently that celebrates Charles Crenchaw, the first African American to reach the summit of Denali. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--Snews is reporting that, "a little less than a month after outdoor companies with Chinese supply chains got some relief from a preliminary trade deal, they’re now reeling from work stoppages caused by the coronavirus outbreak.  Large outdoor apparel companies VF Corp. and Columbia Sportswear are losing sales at retail stores that have been temporarily closed in China, where travel has been sharply curtailed to help stem the spread of the virus. But they aren’t saying much about the potential effect on their supply chains, which include manufacturing operations in China. Meanwhile, smaller companies told SNEWS their production remains halted even after the conclusion of the Chinese Lunar New Year holiday, which was extended because of the outbreak." To read more, click here.

--Curious about how many skiers and snowboarders die in a resort each year? Unofficial Networks has the numbers.

--The New York Times is reporting on the rise in grizzly bear deaths in Montana. "The death rate of grizzlies in this region has been rising, attributed not only to trains, but to poaching, cars and the removal of troublesome bears. In 2018, a record number — 51 — were killed in the Northern Continental Divide Ecosystem, millions of acres in and around Glacier Park. And last year, 51 bears were killed. In 2017, just 29 bears were killed or euthanized." To read more, click here.

--The New York Times and many others are reporting that, "The Boy Scouts of America, an iconic presence in the nation’s experience for more than a century, filed for bankruptcy protection early Tuesday, succumbing to financial pressures that included a surge in legal costs over its handling of sexual abuse allegations. Founded in 1910, the Boy Scouts have long maintained internal files at their headquarters in Texas detailing decades of allegations involving nearly 8,000 “perpetrators,” according to an expert hired by the organization. Lawyers have said in recent months that former scouts have come forward to identify hundreds of other abusers not included in those files." To read more, click here.

--The Hill is reporting that, "it has been just over three years since President Trump took the oath of office, and the lack of permanent leaders in this administration remains alarming and unprecedented. No administration in recent history has had as many vacancies this far into a term. And it is not just Cabinet-level positions that remain vacant or filled with “acting” roles. For three years, the National Park Service has been without a Senate-confirmed director, an agency whose 20,000 employees oversee 419 of America’s most treasured places — national parks, monuments, battlefields, military parks, historical parks, historic sites, lakeshores, seashores, recreation areas, scenic rivers and trails." To read more, click here.

--Unofficial Networks is reporting that, "The French ski resort Luchon-Superbagneres resort in the Pyrennees is facing backlash after using helicopters to transfer snow from the upper mountain to beginner areas near the base Friday and Saturday. Euro News reports in all 55 tons of snow were relocated over 60 trips." To read more, click here.

--Rock and Ice is reporting that, "The Climbing Grief Fund (CGF) and the American Alpine Club (AAC) are pleased to announce that the Climbing Grief Grant is now open to the community. The Climbing Grief Grant offers financial support for individuals directly impacted by grief, loss and/or trauma related to climbing, ski mountaineering or alpinism." To read more, click here.

Tuesday, February 18, 2020

Winter Backcountry Travel 101: Improvised Snow Shelters

What to do with spare time at 14,000ft camp on Denali?  
Build a 16-person igloo! (Photo Credit: Dylan Cembalski)

So you're getting ready to spend an overnight in the mountains in winter. Even seasoned summer backcountry campers will find significantly more difficult challenges in winter camping; shorter days, a harsher climate, harder-earned water sources, and a deep snowpack as the only available medium on which to camp. With a little know-how and practice however, the latter can become your friend.

Snow is an excellent insulator. Snow inherently has so much air inside of it that it traps up to 95% of heat transfer. Also, because of this very principle, the snow closer to the ground will be warmer than the snow at the surface. This is why snow caves can be so comfortable. I have dug many snow caves, and spent many nights 10 ft deep in a Pacific Northwest snowpack, and while snow caves are super warm, they are time consuming to create. With two people, the fastest I have been able to dig out a proper cave is about 2 hrs. These days, I pretty much always just dig what is known as an improvised snow shelter. The improvised snow shelter doesn't have quite the insulating ability of a proper cave, but can be dug in 30 minutes and, if sealed proper, can retain a lot of heat without the moisture associated with the dripping roof of a slept-in snow cave.

Improvised Snow Shelter

The gear needed for an improvised snow shelter is pretty minimal. The shelter can take many forms to match the terrain and weather constrictions. If you have a lee-side incline with safe snow conditions, this will provide the best coverage with the least amount of digging. All you will really need is an ultra-light tarp equipped with guy-lines and stakes, and a shovel. I find that adding an extra-large emergency blanket to my sleeping setup really makes a difference in staying warm and dry. The idea is simple- measure out the area you have to work with by spreading out the tarp over the spot you've chosen. Mark the boundaries, then dig out the area, going as deep into the snow as you can- at least 6 feet. Flatten out the bottom of your pit. I like to dig out an area in the pit heading into the hillside that will be used for my kitchen. Make sure to poke some good-sized holes through the snow above this area to allow for adequate ventilation.

 After the pit is dug, carve out an entryway in one of the downhill corners. At a minimum, I try to make my entryway two feet deeper than the floor of my pit. This will create a 'cold-sink' (a place for cold air to escape thus allowing more hot air into the enclosure), provide protection from the elements, and a comfortable seat to put boots on. I then make sure to put an angle or curve into the walkway to further block wind from entering the shelter. When this is all complete, I tension out the tarp over the pit. Once it is tight, seal off the pit by putting snow on top of the tarp's edges and corners. Voila! Improvised shelter, complete!

                  Laying the groundwork for an improvised snow       The final product. (A.Stephen)
                      shelter (A. Stephen)

Staying Dry and Warm

The hardest part about camping and sleeping directly on snow is staying dry and warm.  The first step in this process begins when you leave the car.  Throughout the day, including when you begin to dig out your shelter, be cognizant of keeping crucial layers dry.  Any items that are impossible to keep dry such as gloves and socks, you should double up on.  While down jackets and sleeping bags are warm and packable, consider bringing either a jacket or sleeping bag that is synthetically insulated, since these pieces will retain their warmth even if they get wet.  If anything you are wearing starts to get full-on soaked, switch it out or find a way to dry it out immediately.  Drying out clothing in your sleeping bag at night is possible, but keep in mind that anything that is completely soaked is highly unlikely to be dry by morning, and the more wet things you pack around you, the more potential there is to spend the night shivering instead of sleeping.

An emergency blanket will come in handy to line the floor of your shelter so as to provide a bit of reflective heat, as well as a barrier from the snow in case your bag slides off your pad in the night, or if you need to make a quick exit.  If you are religious about staying dry, chances are you will be able to escape being cold, but going to sleep with a nalgene filled with boiling water can go a long ways toward making sure of this.

As with most mountain travel principles, experience is an equal to knowledge.  So go out and practice before you put yourself in a situation where you are fully dependent on your shelter.  I recommend packing extra warm layers your first few times using an improvised snow shelter so you can dial in your sleeping system without worrying about the consequences of any missteps.  As always, the American Alpine Institute is available to teach these skills in a more comprehensive, hands-on manner, helping you gain the knowledge and experience to become a smart and self-reliant backcountry traveler, climber, and skier. 

-Andy Stephen, Instructor and Guide

Monday, February 17, 2020

Rachets for Rescue

As stated in the past, we love Mike Barter's videos. The Canadian guide is currently doing perhaps the best job at creating instructional videos for climbing...and usually they're pretty funny too!

Mike posted a video on ratchets for rescue. One major component of any hauling system in a crevasse or rock rescue scenario is the ratchet. This is essentially the element of the system that allows the rescuer to retain any advantage that he has gained in the rescue.

Mike's video discusses four different types of ratchets:

1) Autoblocking Device:

Examples of autoblocking devices include the Petzel Reverso, the Black Diamond Guide ATC, the Trango GiGi and the B52. Each of these devices allows one to pull rope up through the device, but won't allow the load line to release without a few shenanigans...more on the shenanigans in a different post.

2) Garda Hitch

Also known as the alpine clutch, this quick system is very effective. However, it is extremely important to check that the hitch has been tied properly before using it in a rescue scenario.

3) Self-Minding Prussik

If you have taken a basic course from the American Alpine Institute, you know that we don't usually teach a means to create a self-minding prussik hitch. In the system that we teach, we leave the prussik cord a bit longer so that the rescuer can mind it himself. This is not quite as effective as either having a pulley that is designed to mind the prussik or a tube-style belay device that will operate the same way.

In the video, Mike also quickly demonstrates a way to make this prussik load-releasable by adding a munter-mule into the shelf. A load-releasable system is desirable in all rescue applications.

4) GriGri

The Petzl GriGri and the Trango Cinch are both highly underutilized tools for rescue. In part, it's because they are heavy, so a lot of climbers don't take them on long routes or into the alpine, but they are very effective. They work as both a pulley and a ratchet simultaneously and are -- by their very nature -- load releasable.

This video is a little bit dated now, and there are a lot of other options out there for ratchets. But this is a good start.

It is imperative that anyone going into the mountains has a rudimentary understanding of ratcheting in rescue. If you haven't had the opportunity to take a class, it might be very valuable to watch this video a few times over and to practice each of the skills shown...

--Jason D. Martin

Friday, February 14, 2020

Route Profile: Skiing the Shuksan Arm

Mt. Shuksan sits above the Mount Baker Ski area, a jagged jewel of rock and ice frosted in snow. The mountain is one of the most photographed mountains in the world, and for good reason. It is an absolutely stunning mountain.

Mt. Shuksan in the Winter

There are several ski tours that one can do out of the Mount Baker Ski Area. Some of them are quite easy, while others are more advanced. Skiing the Shuksan arm is one of the more aggressive ski days. Why? Because you cover quite a bit of ground. But the ground is absolutely awesome.

Here is a short photo essay from that tour:

 Skiers on the Shuksan Arm

A skier dropping down off the arm above Lake Ann 

The snow was literally like butter the day we were up nthere. 

 Okay, I admit it. I'm the one who screwed up the S turns by going straight.

The lower Curtis Glacier above Lake Ann

The American Alpine Institute runs private ski programs in the Cascades, the Sierra and in the San Juans every day throughout the winter. In the Cascades the ski programs run up to July...

--Jason D. Martin

Thursday, February 13, 2020

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 2/13/20


Ski patrollers and volunteers after the rescue at Mt. Baker Ski Area.

--A skier skiing the Mt. Baker Ski Area sidecountry became caught in an avalanche on Saturday in the Symphony Chutes. The female victim was washed into the Canyon area of the resort, buried and then quickly recovered. The victim survived and reported no injuries.

--Public News Service is reporting that, "The Restore Our Parks and Public Lands Act would fund repairs sorely needed in the country's national park system. Deferred maintenance costs are nearly $12 billion, according to the National Park Service. Executive Director of Recreation Northwest, Todd Elsworth, says Washington state is fortunate to have three parks, but overdue repairs are a roadblock." To read more, click here.


--A 209-mile-an-hour gust of wind was recorded in the Eastern Sierra on Sunday. To read more, click here. UPDATE: Maybe it wasn't 209-miles-per-hour after all...

Desert Southwest:

--A missing hiker in Red Rock Canyon's Oak Creek Canyon, has been found deceased. To read more, click here.

--Entry fees for Red Rock Canyon will be waived for President's Day on Monday. Expect it to be busy...

Colorado and Utah:

--A skier at Steamboat died in a tree well entrapment incident over the weekend. To read more, click here.

--A skier suffered a heart attack and died at Breckenridge last week. To read more, click here.

--St. George News is reporting that, "Washington County Sheriff’s Search and Rescue personnel responded to their 16th call this year Saturday evening to rescue a climber who had injured himself at the top of the area known as Island in the Sky in Snow Canyon State Park." To read more, click here.

--Deseret News is reporting that, "The U.S. Department of Interior approved final management plans for the Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante areas on Thursday, a move critics say will open former monument lands to drilling, mining and other industry activity but one praised by top Utah politicians that it rightly restores multiple use of public lands." To read more, click here.

--The American Alpine Club is looking for a new CEO.

--Little Cottonwood Canyon was locked up tight last week as the avalanche hazard spiked. An avalanche even ripped down next to the lodge at Alta. To see a video about this, click here.

--Images of the lift lines in Vail went viral over the weekend. The lines stretched further than you could imagine. Check it out. Or check out this video, below:

--Vail did offered both explanations and an apology late yesterday.

--Wolves may be reintroduced to Colorado.

Notes from All Over:

--Snews is reporting on a tragedy at the outdoor footwear and apparel company, Timberland. "A 20-year-old security guard, Robert Pavao, was charged with second-degree murder on Monday for the stabbing death of a 46-year-old woman at the headquarters of Timberland, in Stratham, New Hampshire. The incident occurred on Sunday afternoon, with multiple law enforcement agencies, including a local SWAT team, responding to an emergency call around 4 p.m. EST." To read more, click here.

--A skier died after colliding with a tree in South Dakota. To read more, click here.

--Anchroage Daily News is reporting that, "a snowmachiner was buried in an avalanche and died Monday afternoon near Cooper Lake on the Kenai Peninsula, troopers said." To read more, click here.

--A climber was severely injured in an ice climbing fall on Wyoming's Broken Heart Falls. To read more, click here.

--Wyoming's White Pine Ski Resort is for sale.

--Liftblog is reporting that, "New York’s state-owned Olympic Regional Development Authority plans to spend a whopping $147 million to upgrade its facilities during 2020 and 2021.  Those venues include Belleayre, Gore Mountain, the Olympic Ski Jumping Complex and Whiteface, which together saw three new lifts over the last three years.  On Friday, the agency issued a formal request for proposal for three more fixed-grip quad chairlifts to be built over two years." To read more, click here.

--Sophie Turner's first television show following the blockbuster Game of Thrones looks like a mountain and wilderness survival epic. Check out the trailer below:

--Acadia National Park is going to implement a reservation system for driving on the Park's roads. To read more, click here.

--Gripped is reporting that, "German alpinist Fabi Buhl, 29, recently climbed the Ragni route up the west face of Cerro Torre and then paraglided off the summit. Buhl is the first climber to paraglide from the summit without using a helicopter to reach the top." To read more, click here.

Tuesday, February 11, 2020

Ten Hacks for Backcountry Skiers

If you're looking for some really good ski advice, the Stomp It tutorials are pretty darn good. There are dozens of videos on youtube from these guys, and they're all informative and well-produced.

The video we're focusing on here is the "Ten Hacks for Freeride Skiers" video, which really should be Ten Hacks for Backcountry skiers, thus my title.

Here is what he covers in the of the hacks:

  1. (:18) He covers getting up in powder after a fall. This is important!
  2. (1:09) One skin skate: How to move with a single skin on, to decrease time with skins.
  3. (2:06) He shows how to remove a skin without taking off skis.
  4. (2:53) A trick to keep skins dry when yo-yoing.
  5. (3:31) Duct tape on a pole trick.
  6. (4:08) Measuring slope angle with your ski pole.
  7. (5:26) Building a bench with your skis and poles.
  8. (6:03) Snacks - he shows how to make a good one!
  9. (6:48) Carry a multi-tool.
  10. (7:16) Fill in holes on-the-go.

--Jason D. Martin

Monday, February 10, 2020

Common Mistakes when Skiing Powder

Backcountry skiing is truly the art of skiing every type of terrain possible. But we go into the backcountry to powder ski.

Here are some excellent tips to increase your powder skiing skills.

In review:

The first mistake is to lean back too much. It's easy to do this because, you feel like the powder is grabbing at your feet. If you lean back too much, it makes it much harder to turn and is exhausting.

The second most common mistake is to finish a turn and then to stay in that position. The best thing one can do it to project the body down the hill. Keep your hands in front and never let a hand get behind you, as it can set off a greater rotation than you'd like.

The third most common mistake is to ski with your feet too wide. If your feet are too wide, it's easy to put too much force into one ski, causing it to sink down. The snow then grabs the foot and pulls it backwards, which can spin you into a crash.

--Jason D. Martin

Friday, February 7, 2020

The Rodeo Clip

The Rodeo Clip is a very unusual technique in climbing. It is a means by which one can essentially swing their rope into a draw. This is done by whipping the rope in a circle and hitting the gate of the carabiner.

So, why would I do this?

You might do this if there are pre-placed draws on a route and you're worried about the moves up to the first draw. You might do this if you are worried and you don't have a stick clip. And you might do this if you want to look cool...

But it won't look cool if you do it poorly. So, here's a video on how to do it well:

Obviously, it's possible to back-clip the rope. Be careful when you're doing this and take appropriate precautions not to do so.

--Jason D. Martin

Thursday, February 6, 2020

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 2/6/20

Climate Crisis:

--At the Outdoor Retailer Show last week, it was announced that the "Outdoor Industry Association (OIA) has announced the Climate Action Corps, an unprecedented, collaborative model for alignment, action and accountability to achieve industry-wide greenhouse gas (GHG) emission reductions in accordance with Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) guidelines." To read more, click here.


--An 11-year-old died after striking a tree at an Idaho ski resort last week. To read more, click here.

--KOBI 5 is reporting on an accident in Southern Oregon. "Firefighters rescued a woman Saturday after she injured herself while rock climbing near Emigrant Lake. Elena Bianchi, 35, spoke with NBC5 News and said she was attempting to put in her first bolt when she slipped and fell nearly ten feet. Due to the fall, she ended up breaking her tailbone after landing on a rock. For a moment, she remembered thinking she might not be able to walk." To read more, click here.

--King 5 News is reporting that, "Ancient human remains believed to be between 500 to 1,000 years old were discovered near a popular trail in Clallam County. The bones were first discovered on the Olympic Discovery Trail, just east of Port Angeles, on Jan. 15 and again on Jan. 18." To read more, click here.

I know. We put up a Bigfoot spoof last week. But this is funny.

--Liftblog is reporting that, "'At approximately 9:45 a.m. this morning (Feb 2), Seventh Heaven chairlift stopped operating,” read a statement from the mountain, which is operated by Vail Resorts.  'Ski patrol evacuated 26 guests, with no reported injuries.  The evacuation was safely completed at approximately 12:15 p.m.,' the statement continued.  'Stevens Pass extends its apologies to the guests who were inconvenienced by this event.  The safety of our guests and employees is our top priority.'" To read more, click here.

Colorado and Utah:

--Outside wonders, "As red-rock meccas like Moab, Zion, and Arches become overrun with visitors, our writer wonders if Utah's celebrated Mighty Five ad campaign worked too well—and who gets to decide when a destination is 'at capacity.'" To read more, click here.

--NPR is reporting that, "the Colorado Department of Transportation has partnered with three ski resorts, including Loveland Ski Area, to run round-trip buses on weekends. Because buses are more efficient than cars at moving large numbers of people on a tight, winding two-lane highway, state officials hope they'll take enough cars off the road to alleviate some congestion." To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--A series of avalanches in Turkey killed at least 33-people including rescuers on Tuesday. To read more, click here.

--A 41-year-old climber was injured in a climbing fall near New York's Chapel Pond. To read more, click here.

--A hiker near LA got himself into some trouble when he moved into climbing terrain and had to be rescued. To read more, click here.

--Ancient tracks on a volcano near Mt. Vesuvius reveal that hominid cousins to humans made an ascent of an erupting volcano nearly 350,000 years ago. To read more, click here.

--Here is a great round-up of public lands issues to pay attention to in 2020, both the good and the bad...

--The number of people participating in outdoor activity decreased in 2019. Almost half of all Americans did not participate in outdoor activities at all last year. To read more, click here.

--Outdoor industry biases may have something to do with the falling numbers. For example, the outdoor industry has done a really poor job developing clothing for plus-sized people...

--Last year, Colin O'Brady claimed to have made the first solo unsupported crossing of Antarctica. In an era of social media stardom, it's easy to miss the problems with these claims. The truth is far more disappointing. To read about this crossing, click here.

--The International Snow Science Workshop (ISSW) is looking for snow scientists and avalanche educators that would like to present. To read more, click here.

--So this 2015 video just came across my feed. This dude soloed a WI 5 route in Valdez, pulling a sea kayak for some reason. It's not really news, but...I thought some of you might be interested in this:

Tuesday, February 4, 2020

True Vacation Climbing in Mexico: El Potrero Chico

The term "vacation climbing" can have a wide spectrum of meanings from sport climbing on the beach to an arctic first-ascent mission in the alpine. What if "actual" vacation climbing meant less stressful climbing, good food, and a pool sporting hammocks? Here's a profile on El Potrero Chico.

A climber walks into EPC
Spanish for "The little Corral", El Potrero Chico (EPC) is an incredible limestone destination in northern Mexico, near the large city of Monterrey. While trad routes exist, EPC is known predominantly as a sport climbing destination with one of the highest concentration of multi-pitch sport climbs outside of Europe (the Dolomites). The style of climbing can vary depending on the crag, but as a generality much of the climbing is vertical or near-vertical with thin holds and sometimes delicate movement with sharp limestone.

The Spires, EPC
Due to some extremely hot temperatures, the EPC season usually starts sometime in November and goes through February, with December and January being the peak climbing months. Classic routes exist in both the shade or the sun depending on when one can visit, so route choice can truly dial in the most comfy temps.

Getting There
Getting to EPC either involves a lengthy drive (depending on where you're driving from) or a flight to Monterrey, with several taxi services available to drive the 45 minutes to your lodging. Once you get to EPC itself, it is a short walk to the crags (no car needed) from any of the main lodges/camping areas. A taxi transport arrangement can be made beforehand with the motel one is staying at.

There are several different options for lodging depending on budget and what one is looking for. During our most recent trip we stayed at La Posada in a motel room with beautiful views of EPC, cheap but delicious food, and a poolside hangout. The camping at La Posada features an indoor common room with stoves, fridges, and wifi. La Pagoda, El Sendero, and Homero's are other fantastic options.

La Posada with EPC in the background
The Climbing...
At first glance, EPC may look intimidating for a newer sport climber with a 5.10 limit but many of the 5.10 routes here are amicable, well protected, and aren't too sustained. Even those looking for harder climbs might enjoy a day or two warming up on routes like Satori (7 pitches, 5.10) or Off the Couch (7 pitches, 5.10) which are both in the shade. For sunnier introductions, look at Estrellita (12 pitches, 5.10 or 5.11 with variations). Other more moderate multi-pitch routes do exist at the 5.8-5.9 level like Las Chimuelas or Ramsey's Shenanigans. At the 5.10 grade it feels like the multi-pitch offerings are endless and high quality.

A climber follows Pitch Black (6 pitches, 5.10+)
The Harder Climbing...
Stepping it up a notch or two in difficulty, EPC has a healthy selection of long and challenging routes. One of the most famous routes in EPC, Time Wave Zero, has been dubbed one of the longest sport routes in the world (2,300 feet, 5.11 A0 or 5.12-) and is truly unique...where else can one feel like they're "big wall free-climbing" at relatively modest grades on solely bolts. The 5.12- crux is one of the last pitches of the route, and may feel quite stout after climbing a few thousand feet and attempting 5.12 on thin holds in the sun. The classic testpiece of EPC is El Sendero Luminoso (youtube the video of Alex Honnold soloing it!) with 15 pitches and mostly 5.12-5.12+ climbing. Dozens (and dozens...and dozens...) of other routes offer grades from 5.11-5.13 (or harder) on single and multi pitch.

A climber rappels off Time Wave Zero after a successful ascent.
On one final note- those looking for areas to develop sport climbing...there is a great deal of potential here for new routes, some would say far less than half the area has been developed! For any climber, consider EPC for your next vacation, particularly when you are looking for an "actual" climbing vacation!


Monday, February 3, 2020

Route Profile: The Bastille Crack, Eldorado Canyon

The Bastille Crack is one of the most climbed routes in North America, and for good reason. The approach is all of 45 seconds (watch out for your belayer getting hit by a car) and 350 feet of crack climbing awaits. This climb is a favorite in summertime, with it's all day shade (or atleast most of all day) and it's moderate grade of 5.7+ (some argue it is 5.7, others argue it is "5.7++"). Historically, this was first climbed by a couple of soldiers in the 50's utilizing aid tactics. Over time it has become the classic and busy route we know it as today. Disclaimer: Do not rely on this information, it is no replacement for qualified experience and instruction. Climb at your own risk.

The Bastille Formation
Pitch 1
Many unnecessary ground falls happen on this pitch. Start on the climber's right flake and then step across to the main crack system. The step across does not always get protected (it's about ~25 feet into the pitch) though gear placements are available, so: protect the step across! This is the only pitch on the route with a bolted anchor (it is possible to top rope just this pitch). If one is top-roping, clip some pins as a directional and try out the Northcutt Start (5.10d) climber's left of the Bastille Crack. This direct start was arguably one of the first 5.10s in the country, established in 1959.

Pitch 2
A short chimney leads to more crack climbing- the outsides of the crack are relatively well featured with feet and handholds.

Climbers finishing the second pitch of the Bastille

Pitch 3
This pitch seems to catch many Eldorado Canyon initiates by surprise. Given a 5.6 rating- many are surprised by how steep it is- steep enough that missing the right handholds on this pitch could pump out both the leader and follower depending on their onsight grade (as a 5.6-5.7 climber).

Climbers on the third pitch of the Bastille Crack, as seen from Whale's Tail

Pitch 4
Traverse left into a series of rather insecure cracks and holds that don't quite face the right way. Utilize decent body position and mindful footing to get all up to a natural break, if you've made it this far, the final pitch will likely come easily!

Climbers at the 4th pitch belay

Pitch 5
Fun chimneying and stemming provides a little cherry on top for a scenic summit. There is an enticing block to sling as you finish the pitch, using that block is not recommended (it wobbles) and there are ample alternative anchor options.

Head South through a sort of horizontal chimney and continue across the same ledge system all the way to the trail. Guided parties will likely rope up here, while independent climbers usually solo. It is indeed moderate terrain but there are specific sections where an unroped fall would be fatal (or at the very least leave a mark).

Friday, January 31, 2020

Avalanche Problems Explained

The National Avalanche Center has put together an excellent educational resource on how to read an avalanche forecast. This is a really good video and even if you feel well-versed in avalanche education, it's worth the five minutes it will take to watch it...

--Jason D. Martin

Thursday, January 30, 2020

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 1/22/20

Climate Crisis:

--Mother Jones is reporting that, "Political appointees at the Interior Department have sought to play up climate pollution from California wildfires while downplaying emissions from fossil fuels as a way of promoting more logging in the nation’s forests, internal emails obtained by the Guardian reveal. The messaging plan was crafted in support of Donald Trump’s pro-industry arguments for harvesting more timber in California, which he says would thin forests and prevent fires—a point experts refute." To read more, click here.


--The Wenatchee World is reporting that, "after almost a year of developers and opponents battling it out, a Chelan County judge is allowing the Leavenworth Adventure Park to move forward." This is an amusement park. It's construction will certainly have consequences to climbing, camping and backpacking out of Leavenworth, with the biggest issue being additional crowding. To read more, click here.

Is it Sasquatch? Click here to read more.

--The Seattle Times is reporting that, "A bill in the Washington Legislature would get rid of the Discover Pass, eliminating the $30 annual fee thousands of motorists now pay to enter state parks.  Senate Minority Leader Mark Schoesler, R-Ritzville, is sponsoring Senate Bill 6174, which would make access to over 100 state parks, 700 water-access points, and 350 recreation sites free for all. Currently, motorists must pay a $30 annual pass or $10 day pass, or risk getting slapped with a $99 fine." To read more, click here.


--The Sacramento Bee is reporting that, "Squaw Valley ski patrol is urging skiers to stay in bounds on trails and be aware of avalanche safety after they had to traverse dangerous terrain to find a lost and injured skier on Monday. The rescuers found the skier two miles out of bounds, near Needle Lake. Terrain was so difficult to access that a CHP helicopter was requested and flew the skier and the ski patrol unit back to high camp at Squaw Valley ski resort." To read more, click here.

Colorado and Utah:

--Out There Colorado is reporting that, "A string of avalanches recently tore through parts of Colorado, leaving multiple people trapped under the snow. One person died and multiple were injured." To read more, click here.

--The Know Outdoors is reporting that, "Nearly 200 miles south of Denver, near the New Mexico border in a picturesque valley on the eastern slope of the Sangre de Cristo range, a long-shuttered ski area is showing hopeful signs of life. Sure, a lot of things would have to fall into place before Cuchara Valley can be reborn as a ski area after two decades of dormancy, but a local group is working hard to make it happen." To read more, click here.

--The Access Fund is reporting that, "For the last two years, Access Fund has been fighting off attempts by the Department of Justice to transfer and to outright dismiss its lawsuit to defend Bears Ears National Monument in Utah, an irreplaceable landscape that is home to world-class climbing. After many months of procedural battles—all of which we’ve won—Access Fund and its co-plaintiffs have now taken an offensive position with a motion that could lead to a victory on the merits." To read more, click here.

--Outside is reporting that, "Bluebird Backcountry is set to open in Colorado next month with 1,500 acres on Peak Ranch, near Steamboat Springs, plus a lodge, warming huts, gear rentals, and ski patrol. But instead of a chairlift, dedicated skin tracks will lead skiers to open meadows and aspen glades. When it debuts for a trial month starting February 15, Bluebird will be the first human-powered, downhill-focused ski resort in North America, giving people an opportunity to explore the sport in a safe and accessible location." To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--A cross-country skier was bit by a coyote in Yellowstone National Park this week. To read more, click here.

--The Post Register is reporting that, "Changing conditions are being blamed for three Teton Range avalanches triggered by skiers on Sunday and one on Monday, according to officials. As temperatures climbed to the low 40s on the floor of Jackson Hole, Wyo., the avalanche danger was rated at “Moderate” for elevations of 7,500 feet and above." To read more, click here.

--Teton Gravity Research is reporting that, "the Freeride World Tour is setting a new standard at the dawn of a new decade: equal pay regardless of gender. It’s a progressive step forward for female freeriding, and the FWT hopes it will elevate the next generation of freeriders." To read more, click here.

--Canada's premire outdoor retailer, MEC lost 11 million dollars last year. The result? Layoffs and restructuring. Check out this letter from the company's CEO.

--Unofficial Networks is reporting that,"According to the National Ski Areas Association, without drastic changes, snow sports participation could decline 2.5% every year for all ski areas. The main reason for this decline is millennial participation. Millennials represent the largest group of snowboarders and skiers, but they also have the fewest number of days per season. The figures show that the industry will need to increase the frequency of the millennial participant to match that of the exiting baby boomer." To read more, click here.

--Conversely, there appears to be a lot of crowding at ski resorts lately. Outside is asking why...? According to the National Ski Areas Association, ski and snowboard visits are up 18 percent since 1978, to almost 60 million last winter. And skiers are more concentrated than ever: the Rocky Mountain region saw a 54 percent jump in visits, while the Midwest is down by a third in that same time period. (Of course, ski seasons fluctuate. Last winter was the fourth busiest since 1978, though the one before that doesn’t even break the top half.)" To read more, click here.

Tuesday, January 28, 2020

Avalanche Rescue: Patient Care

BCA has put together a nice series of instructional videos about avalanche safety and companion rescue.

In this video, avalanche instructor Sarah Carpenter talks about what to do after you have unburied your partner...

Once you've dug the patient out, do the following:
  1. Check the mouth and airway. Clear any snow plugs.
  2. Check the chest and lungs. Make sure that patient is breathing. If they're not breathing, stop and fix that! Provide CPR.
  3. Check for a pulse. If there's no pulse, commence with CPR.
  4. Check for bleeds. If there are any massive bleeds, stop and fix that.
  5. Check for spinal injury and check for that. Stabilize if needed.
  6. Can we stay and work on this problem? Or do we need a rapid evacuation.
  7. As soon as someone is dug up, they are exposed to the cold. Get the patient off the snow and bundled up. Treat for hypothermia.
  8. Do a complete patient assessment from head-to-toe to determine if there are other injuries.
  9. Carry and emergency kit that allows you to build a shelter, make a fire and make water.
--Jason D. Martin

Monday, January 27, 2020

Fingerboard Repeaters - Training for Climbing

Every fingerboard is different. Here are a few holds I commonly train.
Fingerboard repeaters or dead hangs are one of the core exercises for building pure, unadulterated, raw finger strength when training for climbing. These are not to be confused with other workouts where you are moving between hangs, lock-offs and pull-ups or whatever else. Fingerboard repeaters are the real deal and should provide the foundation for any climbing strength training phase.

Why Fingerboard Repeaters?

When training there are two basic types of movements or exercises, isotonic and isometric. Isotonic exercises are characterized by movement. What that means is that the muscle/joint angle changes throughout a range of motion. These are the types of exercises you normally picture when you think about working out.

On the flip side, isometric exercises are static in nature. During these exercises the muscle/joint angle remain fixed throughout the contraction. A perfect example of an isometric exercise would be gripping down on a hold. Once your fingers hit a hold and your muscles squeeze to grip, they are essentially fixed at that joint angle and muscle length until you relax your hand.

It is common sense, but research suggests that athletes should train isometrically if their activity primarily requires isometric movements. Like the example above, in climbing the fingers are almost always used isometrically. That said, the crux is that strength gains do not easily carryover between different joint angles or grip types. What that means is that in order for isometric training for climbing to be truly effective, it needs to be performed using the exact grip types employed during climbing.

Luckily, there are only a small number of grip types for climbing. More importantly, these hand positions are easily simulated, which is where fingerboard repeaters come into play. Outside of HIT training, there is no other training tool or exercise other then repeaters (climbing included) that lets you completely isolate and train each specific grip type to failure... period.

How to Perform Fingerboard Repeaters

To perform fingerboard repeaters, place each hand on whatever grip type you would like to train. Your hands should always be using the same grip size and type for each set. In other words, if you are training the medium edge with your right hand then you should also be training the medium edge with your left hand. I use an older Metolius fingerboard, but I have friends who love the new Trango Rock Prodigy Training Center.

Once you are set, drop your weight and using an open hand grip just dead hang completely static. In order to perform each hang with proper technique, your hands should be shoulder-width apart, arms slightly bent, with the muscles in your shoulders, arms and upper back engaged. This keeps you from hanging directly from your joints and reduces your chance of elbow or shoulder injury.

The goal of each fingerboard repeater workout is to complete a predetermined number of sets and repetitions for each grip position. A repetition consists of holding the dead hang for a fixed number of seconds.

Sample Beginner Fingerboard Repeater Workout

For this workout you are going to complete 1 set of 6 repetitions (or "reps") for 8 grip types. A rep is a 10 second dead hang followed by 5 seconds of rest. You should keep your hands on the board while resting between reps.

After completing each set, rest for 3 minutes between each grip type. Overall workout should take around 36 minutes to complete.

Number Grip Set Reps Resistance
1 Warm-up Jug 1 6 Baseline
2 I/M/R Large Edge 1 6 Baseline
3 Medium Edge 1 6 Baseline
4 I/M Large 2 Finger Pocket 1 6 Baseline
5 Sloper 1 6 Baseline
6 M/R Large 2 Finger Pocket 1 6 Baseline
7 Large Edge 1 6 Baseline
8 M/R/P Large Edge 1 6 Baseline
I = Index Finger, M = Middle Finger, R = Ring Finger, P = Pinky

The goal of this workout is to complete each rep with perfect form. In order to accomplish this you will most likely need to use a fingerboard pulley system to remove weight from your body or if you are advanced, hang weight plates from your harness to add weight to your body. The objective is to use just the right amount of weight so that you're struggling to complete the last rep for each grip type. This weight is referred to as your baseline resistance for this specific workout. Different grip types are going to have different baselines since obviously certain grips will be stronger then others.

Building a full strength training phase is beyond the scope of this post. I just wanted to give you a snap shot of what a single workout in a smaller micro-cycle would look like. That said, for a climber new to the fingerboard, repeating a cycle of the above workout 2x a week for 4 weeks with at least a week or two break from fingerboarding between cycles is a good start.

Quick Notes on Fingerboard Repeaters and the Beginner Fingerboard Repeater Workout

-Fingerboard repeaters are an extremely effective tool for building raw finger strength, but they put tremendous stress on your fingers, elbows and shoulders. If you have never "seriously" trained on a fingerboard in this fashion, even if you are an advanced climber, err on the side of using less weight in beginning so your body can adapt to the higher stress. Moreover, always focus on performing each rep with perfect form... even at your limit!

-Again, because of the stress placed on your fingers, elbows and shoulders during a fingerboard repeater workout it is recommended you take at least 2 days of rest between workouts. Should you climb during those 2 days, only engage in light easy climbing. This will give you time to recover between workouts and avoid stress/overuse injuries.

-Don't be a hero... thoroughly warm up and stick with an open hand grip when training fingerboard repeaters. Unless you are an advanced climber with years of hardcore fingerboard training under your belt, do not use a full crimp grip when performing fingerboard repeaters. It is the absolute fastest way to get a finger injury... guaranteed.

-As you get more advanced, when choosing grip types it is important to think about what exactly you are training for. If your goal route is a jug haul in the Red, then train the larger grips/pinches with a lot of added weight. If you are training for a delicate face where you are inching up dime edges in Devil's Lake, focus on strengthening the smaller grips. Make your training make sense in the larger context of your goals.

A page out of my training log.

-Given different grips will have different baseline weights it is very important that you keep an accurate record of them. This way you can use them as a benchmark and track your progress as you build fingerboard training into your overall climbing routine. Also, add new grips slowly each cycle, you do not want to be using completely different grips cycle to cycle because you will not be able to track your progression over a longer time period.

-It is unlikely that you are going to walk into the gym on your first day of fingerboard repeater training and know your baseline. As frustrating and annoying as it is... establishing your baseline is going to take some trial and error.

A strategy that worked well for me when I started out was to find a weight I was initially comfortable with and perform a set. If I could complete it and it felt easy, I would add 5 lbs next workout. If it it was too difficult and I could not complete it, I would remove 5 more lbs next workout.

After 3 or 4 workouts, I was able to establish my baseline for each grip. Then by the 6th or 7th workout as I became stronger, I would add 5 lbs each time I was able to finish as set and it felt easy. I repeated this process for every grip that I trained.

-Finally, a fingerboard repeater workout is more akin to limit bouldering. It needs to be performed at super high intensity, the "stoke-meter" needs to be on full blast, and if you are not sweating, grunting, or feel like your forearms are on fire by the last rep, then you are not doing it correctly.

--Chris Casciola, Guest Blogger and Author of SeekingExposure. For more tips on training for climbing make sure to check out his blog and follow SeekingExposure on Instagram, Facebook, Pinterest or Twitter!

Friday, January 24, 2020

The Backpack as Luggage

Air travel is a pain. And frankly, I'm sick of it. I sometimes think it would be better to drive eight hours than to take a short flight...

I used to really enjoy the process of flying...when I was eight or nine. But now as an adult, I find it to be an expensive, uncomfortable and nerve-racking process. It's a game. What will I have to pay for? Will I get to use the arm-rest? Have the others in my row elected to use deodorant? Will my neighbor's body fat "share" my seat? Will my luggage get there? How long will I have to sit on a plane that isn't moving?

I hate it.

But I also recognize that it is part of the process. To go anywhere really cool, you have to fly. And flying somewhere on a climbing trip means that you have to check baggage.

Obviously one of the key components to a flight is your backpack. There are a couple of ways to deal with this ever-so-important item.

A smaller pack (under 3500 cubic inches) can often be brought into the cabin with you. On foreign mountaineering trips, we often recommend that climbers stow their boots and hard-shells in the pack. These are things that you won't be able to replace if your luggage gets lost.

Some people suggest carrying a rock rack or harness in your carry-on. If you elect to do this, expect to spend significant time at the security check-point. If you have things on your harness, don't forget to check your harness knife, otherwise they'll take it away.

One thing that can be helpful if you're carrying a rack on a plane is to bring some climbing magazines. You might also consider having some pictures of your rack in use on your phone. The reason to do this is so that you can show a TSA agent how the devices within your pack are used.

This should be common sense, but don't even consider carrying an ice rack, ice tools or an ice axe in your carry-on. You can expect to have significant problems trying to get through security with such items...and an attempt to bring so many sharp things through, could lead to all kinds of additional problems (i.e. a "backroom" search).

If you intend on checking a backpack, it should be noted that pack-straps can cause significant issues on the different machines used in airports to maneuver luggage. It's important to pull the shoulder straps tight and to clip the waist belt around the body of the pack.

In this photo, note that the shoulder straps have been pulled as tightly as possible and 
that the waist belt has been clipped on the opposite side of the pack.

There are still a lot of straps that could get caught, but by pulling everything tight, 

there are a lot less loops that could get caught in airport machinery.

Some airlines will simply put a backpack in a large plastic sack. This would also be a perfectly acceptable way for you to ensure that nothing on your pack got stuck.

Airline travel is terrible...but to do what we love to do, it is often a necessary evil.

--Jason D. Martin

Thursday, January 23, 2020

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 1/23/20

Climate Crisis:

--Here's how climate change is affecting outdoor adventures sports and wilderness exploration.


--Prolific Northwest mountaineer, artist, NPS ranger and guide, Dee Molenaar, died at the age of 101 on Sunday. As a ranger and guide, Dee climbed Mt. Rainer over 50-times. He was on the second ascent of Mt. St. Elias, and was on the third attempt to climb K2. To read more, click here.

--Gripped is reporting that, "it was a tragic weekends at two B.C. ski resorts, as more inbound accidents lead to fatalities. The B.C. Coroner’s Service is investigating after a skier and a snowboarder died after becoming trapped in tree wells in separate incidents." To read more, click here.


--KCRA 3 is reporting that, "One person was killed and one person was seriously injured in an avalanche at a Tahoe ski resort on Friday morning, authorities said. The avalanche happened around 10:15 a.m. near the Subway ski run at Alpine Meadows ski resort, according to the Placer County Sheriff’s Office." To read more, click here.

Carson Now is reporting that, "The man who died Saturday has been identified as 36-year-old Christopher John Nicholson of South Lake Tahoe, Calif. Nicholson was a member of the Heavenly Ski Patrol and had been working that day. The Douglas County Sheriff’s Office and Washoe County Coroner’s Office is working to identify a cause of death, according to a DCSO news release." To read more, click here.

Yosemite's El Capitan
Photo by Krista Eytchison

--At least 200-people left Yosemite with a norovirus recently.

Desert Southwest:

--CNN is reporting that, "Skeletal remains that were found in Joshua Tree National Park last month have been identified as 51-year-old Paul Miller, a Canadian man who went missing in 2018, according to officials." To read more, click here.

Colorado and Utah:

--Out There Colorado is reporting that, "An ice climber was killed on January 18, 2020 in Uncompahgre Gorge in Ouray County, Colorado when a block of falling ice triggered a small avalanche. Untethered at the time of the avalanche, the victim was hit and carried into a creek, where she was fully buried by snow and ice. According to the Colorado Avalanche Information Center, the victim was not climbing at the time of the accident." To read more, click here.

--The Denver Post is reporting that, "Police on Monday identified the skier who died Saturday on the slopes of Winter Park Resort as 25-year-old Francis Raymond Ermilio of Massachusetts. Ermilio was not an experienced skier and investigators believe he lost control Saturday afternoon while skiing an intermediate run and crashed into nearby trees, according to a news release from the Fraser Winter Park Police Department." To read more, click here.

--Out There Colorado is reporting that, "Backcountry skiers came to the rescue Saturday when a dog became buried under a large slab avalanche in Central Colorado." To read more, click here.

New Variation to Jah Man
Photo by Gaar Lausman

--Last week it was reported that the Moab classic Jah Man fell down. This week AAI guide Gaar Lausman and a few other locals developed three new pitches to link into the original line. To read more click here.

--The Adventure Blog is reporting that, "Colorado is home to 58 mountains that exceed 14,000 feet (4267 meters), which of course makes it one of the most mountainous states in the entire U.S. Over the years, countless climbers and hikers have made it a priority to climb each and every one of those mountains, which have entire websites dedicated to them. But recently, a Siberian husky by the name of Loki topped out on his 58th 14er as well, making him the third dog to ever accomplish that feat." To read more, click here.

--The Aspen Times is reporting that, "Former Aspen Skiing Co. executive and city Councilman Derek Johnson was sentenced to six years in prison Tuesday for methodically stealing and selling more than 13,000 pairs of company-owned skis worth nearly $6 million over more than 12 years." To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--John Evans, a prolific American climber, recently died at the age of 82. To read more, click here.

--Gripped is reporting that, "Legendary Rockies climber Charles “Chas” Yonge, who made hundreds of first ascents in Canada and was a world renowned cave explorer, has passed away. He was in his mid-70s." To read more, click here.

--The News Tribune is reporting on something really scary: "A family hike Monday in a Southern California wilderness park turned terrifying when a mountain lion lunged at a 3-year-old boy, The Orange County Register reports. The animal bit the child on the neck and began to drag him away in the 4:15 p.m. attack at Whiting Ranch Wilderness Park in Lake Forest The father of the family of six threw a backpack at the mountain lion, which let go of the boy and retreated into a tree with the backpack." To read more, click here.

--Independent Record is reporting that, "an Indiana man was rescued uninjured from the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone last week, according to district park ranger Klint Powell. Dave Christensen, 55, of Indiana, was reported rappelling into the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone around 11 a.m. on Jan. 6. He was illegally off trail and in the canyon, according to Powell." To read more, click here.

--Applications are open for the Kyle Dempster Solo Award. From Gripped: "Each year, the Kyle Dempster Solo Adventure Award will be given to an American solo adventurer embarking on a journey that embodies Kyle’s passionate spirit and love of exploration, with an emphasis on storytelling and leave no trace ethics." To read more, click here.