Tuesday, July 31, 2018

Book Review: Alone on the Wall by Alex Honnold and David Roberts

On June 3, 2017, something happened that changed the climbing world. Alex Honnold free soloed Freerider (5.12d, VI, 3000') on Yosemite's El Capitan. This ascent was beyond awe inspiring. Some have said that it was the most impressive thing to happen in any sport...ever.

Many writers have compared Alex's free solo to breaking the four-minute mile, a barrier that was thought impossible to break, until it was soundly broken. The big difference between the four-minute mile and Alex's ascent is that if someone doesn't quite break the four-minute mile, they're still alive. Had Alex not been successful on his ascent, he would have died...


Alex predicted that he would attempt something on El Cap in his inciteful book, Alone on the Wall, which he wrote with the prolific outdoor writer, David Roberts. Indeed, he noted that Freerider would be the obvious choice.

Alone on the Wall chronicles Alex's journey from high school nerdom to internationally renowned rock climber. It looks carefully at how he began free soloing, his mentors, his sponsorship, his films and his most inspirational ascents. It also delves into his psychology and why he climbs without a rope.

It's with some irony that he noted the reason he started free soloing was because he was too shy to try to hook-up with strangers in climbing area parking lots. In other words, the greatest free soloist in history, a person who can climb 5.12+ thousands of feet off the deck with no rope, became who he is...because he was afraid...

In Alone on the Wall, we learn that Alex slowly developed his skill over a period of years, going bigger and bigger. When he free soloed Moonlight Buttress (5.12d, V, 1200') in Zion, the climbing world took notice. It didn't take long for him to become a member of the North Face team, traveling the world.

It was during his travels that climbing became something more than just a physical pursuit. In the country of Chad, Alex began to think about climate change and sustainability in relation to some of the poorest people on the planet. Shortly after that trip he launched the Honnold Foundation, an organization dedicated to bringing sustainable improvements to developing countries including solar panels and other clean energy innovations.

Alex Honnold is not without his detractors though. Indeed, when we posted about Alex's achievements on our Facebook page we received a number of comments about how irresponsible this type of climbing is. There is a belief that people will attempt free soloing that shouldn't because of Alex. In Alone on the Wall, he responds to this criticism:

Every once in awhile, I hear that somebody thinks I'm a bad role model for kids. The argument goes something like this: Some kid sees a film like Alone on the Wall and decides he wants to try free soloing. Doesn't have the judgement yet to know how to stay safe. In the worst case scenario, the kid gets on some route right at his limit, loses his cool, and falls off.

Well, I challenge those critics to cite a single case in which a climbing accident has been caused by some youngster trying to emulate me. It just doesn't work that way. If you've never free soloed before, you're likely to get twelve feet off the ground, freak out, and back off.

It's easy to see where these concerns come into play. Alex is cool and his ascents are cool. His book is inspirational. But there are very few free solo deaths in the United States or abroad. Alex's ascents are extremely high profile, but there's no evidence that there are any more free soloists today than there were twenty years ago. That said, free soloing is also in the eye of the beholder. Is climbing a third class ridge line without a rope free soloing? What about a fourth-class ridge with one fifth class move...? Where does it switch from scrambling to free soloing? When does a high-ball boulder problem transition from bouldering the free soloing...? There's no doubt that what Alex is doing is free solo climbing. But I believe some detractors haven't thought about where their own climbing switches from scrambling to free soloing, and sometimes it can feel like those who criticise Alex are throwing stones in a glass house...

Alex on the Thank God Ledge on the Regular NW Face (5.12b, VI)  of Half Dome.
This is the famous photo from Alex's seminal film, Alone on the Wall.

So what about that ascent on El Cap. Alex thought about it for a long time. In his book he even names Freerider as a potential objective for the first free solo of El Cap. But he also notes the pressure.

For a while, the media flirted with the idea that Dean Potter and I were rivals to pull off the first free solo of El Cap. I just shrugged off that talk, but it sort of pissed Dean off. "Let's talk about it after it's happened," he told Outside in 2010. "The magazines want a race. But this would be beyond athletic achievement. For me, this would be at the highest level of spirituality."

Though Alex wasn't the one who said that it would be the "highest level of spirituality," it's certainly a memorable moment in his book. It's clear that he feels that an ascent like the one he made on Freerider was indeed, the highest level of spirituality...

The question that everyone's asking then is, what's next? How can he go bigger than El Cap? It's no mystery. Alex told us in his book:

For that matter, even El Cap wouldn't be the ultimate free solo. On Nameless Tower, a huge granite spire in the Trango Towers group of the Karakoram Range in Pakistan, there's a route called Eternal Flame. It's as big as El Cap, and it starts at 17,000 feet above sea level. The route was put up in 1989 by a very strong German foursome, including Wolfgang Gullich and Kurt Albert. After lots of other climbers tried and failed, the Huber brothers, Alex and Thomas, succeeded in climbing it all free in 2009. They rated it at 5.13a. Claiming they were lucky to have good weather and find almost no ice in the cracks, the Hubers called Eternal Flame "the best and most beautiful free climb on the globe." If there's a challenge for the proverbial "next generation," it would be free soloing Eternal Flame.

If the first free solo ascent on El Cap was a moon landing, then an ascent of Eternal Flame is a Mars landing. And all that we mere mortals can do is to wish Alex, good luck...!

--Jason D. Martin

Monday, July 30, 2018

Update on Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks Firefighter Fatality

AAI just received the following from Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park:

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks News Release

For Immediate Release                             
Media Contact: (559) 565-3704
E-mail: seki_fire_info@nps.gov
  Reference Number: 8550-1843

Update on Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks Firefighter Fatality

SEQUOIA AND KINGS CANYON NATIONAL PARKS, Calif. July 29, 2018 – The firefighter who lost his life in an accident on the fireline this morning has been identified as Brian Hughes, Captain of the Arrowhead Interagency Hotshots. He was 33.

The fatal incident occurred earlier this morning. At the time, Hughes and his crew were engaged in a tactical firing operation on the east side of the Ferguson Fire. They were operating in an area with a large amount of tree mortality. Hughes was struck by a tree. He was treated on scene, but passed away before he could be transported to a hospital.

Hughes was originally from Hilo, Hawai`i, and has been with the Arrowhead Interagency Hotshots for four years. The parks ask that public and media respect the other crew members’ privacy during this tragic time.

A photo of Brian Hughes accompanies this news release. Additional updates will be issued as information becomes available.

Captain Brian Hughes of the Arrowhead Hotshots. Photo from Brad Torchia.

 - NPS -

About Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks

These two parks, which lie side by side in the southern Sierra Nevada in Central California, preserve prime examples of nature’s size, beauty, and diversity. Over 2 million visitors from across the U.S. and the world visit these parks to see the world’s largest trees (by volume), grand mountains, rugged foothills, deep canyons, vast caverns, the highest point in the lower 48 states, and more. Learn more at http://www.nps.gov/seki or 559-565-3341.

Firefighter from Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks Killed on Ferguson Fire

This is absolutely horrible. AAI just received this email from Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks:

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks News Release

For Immediate Release                             
Media Contact: (559) 565-3704
E-mail: seki_fire_info@nps.gov
Reference Number: 8550-1842

Firefighter from Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks Killed on Ferguson Fire

SEQUOIA AND KINGS CANYON NATIONAL PARKS, Calif. July 29, 2018 – This morning, park officials were informed that a firefighter from Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks was killed in the line of duty on the Ferguson Fire in Mariposa County. The firefighter’s identity is being withheld until appropriate family notifications have been made.

The fatal incident occurred earlier this morning. At the time, the firefighter and his crew were engaged in a tactical firing operation on the east side of the Ferguson Fire. They were operating in an area with a large amount of tree mortality. The firefighter was struck by a tree. He was treated on scene, but passed away before he could be transported to a hospital.

“The team at Sequoia and Kings National Parks is devastated by this terrible news,” says parks superintendent Woody Smeck. “Our deepest condolences go out to the firefighter’s family and loved ones. We grieve this loss with you.”

Further public information will be made available once the firefighter’s family has been notified. No photos or video related to this incident are currently available.

 - NPS -

About Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks

These two parks, which lie side by side in the southern Sierra Nevada in Central California, preserve prime examples of nature’s size, beauty, and diversity. Over 2 million visitors from across the U.S. and the world visit these parks to see the world’s largest trees (by volume), grand mountains, rugged foothills, deep canyons, vast caverns, the highest point in the lower 48 states, and more. Learn more at http://www.nps.gov/seki or 559-565-3341.

Friday, July 27, 2018

Sierra - Horse Creek Fire - July 27, 2018

The following email just arrived from Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park:

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks News Release

For Immediate Release
Fire Information Updates: (559) 565-3704
E-mail: seki_fire_info@nps.gov
Reference Number: 8550-1841
Media Contact: 559-565-3129

Horse Creek Fire Update 07-27-18

SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK, Calif. July 27, 2018 – Park fire management officials resumed control of the Horse Creek Fire in the John Krebs Wilderness of Sequoia National Park this morning. The fire is currently 34 acres and 90% contained. Fire activity has reduced dramatically, with fire mostly smoldering and creeping with a few interior pockets of active flame.

The fire is staffed on the ground by a single crew engaged in patrol, mop-up, and reinforcing fire containment lines where necessary. Smoke from the area may be visible from the Mineral King Road for several days or weeks as interior pockets of fuel are consumed.

Effective today, overnight wilderness users will be able to begin trips from Mineral King-area trailheads, and walk-up permits are being issued for those trails again according to usual policy. The Atwell-Hockett Trail and the Tar Gap Trail have been reopened for regular use.

“We are very thankful to the South Central Sierra Interagency Incident Management Team for all their hard work,” says Sequoia Duty Officer Kelly Singer. “This fire had the potential to grow quickly and affect a lot of people. Thanks to the team, and to all the other ground and air resources, it’s in a very manageable place now.”

Firefighters will remain on the ground at the fire until a determination is made by fire management staff to withdraw them, at which point the fire will be patrolled by air.

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks are experiencing variable smoke impacts due to other fires in the state, including the Ferguson Fire in Mariposa County. For daily updates on park air quality, visit go.nps.gov/sekiair.

This will be the last daily update for the Horse Creek Fire unless conditions significantly change.

For more information on the Horse Creek Fire, visit https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/incident/5984/.

 - NPS -

About Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks' Fire Management Program

For fifty years, our mission has been to use the full range of options and strategies available to manage fire in the parks. This includes protecting park resources, employees, and the public from unwanted fire; building and maintaining fire resilient ecosystems; reducing the threat to local communities from wildfires emanating from the parks or adjacent lands; and recruiting, training, and retaining a professional fire management workforce.

Thursday, July 26, 2018

Sierra - Horse Creek Fire Update - July 26, 2018

AAI just received the following from Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park:

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks News Release

For Immediate Release
Fire Information Updates: (559) 565-3704
E-mail: seki_fire_info@nps.gov

Horse Creek Fire Update (July 26, 2018)

SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK, Calif. July 26, 2018. – The Horse Creek Fire in the John Krebs Wilderness Area of Sequoia National Park is currently mapped at 34 acres in size and is 62% contained.

Firefighters again stayed on the line overnight to monitor fire activity. They will work a shift today, then be replaced by a local park crew who will remain on the fire for several days. This crew will continue mop up and ensure that no burning material escapes from the containment lines.

Residents and visitors can expect to see smoke from inside the containment lines for the next few days.

Effective today, Thursday, July 26, 2018: the Mineral King area is no longer under a Fire Advisory.

Effective Friday, July 27, 2018: the Park will begin issuing wilderness permits for Mineral King trails, and the Tar Gap and Atwell-Hockett Trails are expected to re-open.

Wilderness permits can be picked up as early as 1:00 p.m. the day before entry. A limited number of walk-up permits will be available.

For questions about wilderness permits, please call (559) 565-3766 or e-mail seki_wilderness_office@nps.gov.

Tulare County offers a free automated alert service that issues notices of unsafe conditions and warnings to residents on the platform of their choice (e.g., SMS, email, landline). To sign up, visit https://alerttc.com/

For more information on the Horse Creek Fire, visit https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/incident/5984/.

 - NPS -

About Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks' Fire Management Program

For fifty years, our mission has been to use the full range of options and strategies available to manage fire in the parks. This includes protecting park resources, employees, and the public from unwanted fire; building and maintaining fire resilient ecosystems; reducing the threat to local communities from wildfires emanating from the parks or adjacent lands; and recruiting, training, and retaining a professional fire management workforce.

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 7/26/18

Northwest:

--Gripped Magazine is reporting that a Canadian climbing guide passed away earlier this month. "Geoffrey Bernard Creighton died suddenly and unexpectedly on July 7, at his home in North Vancouver." To read more, click here.

--A helicopter rescued an injured 64-year old climber off Oregon's Mt. Jefferson this week. To read more, click here.

--Here's an inspirational article about adaptive climbers in Squamish!

--Brittany Goris recently redpointed City Park (5.13d) in Index. This is perhaps the most famous single pitch or rock climbing in Washington State because of its history and stature. To learn about it and Brittany, click here.

Sierra:

--A new via ferrata in the Sierra is raising some hackles. To read more, click here.

--It's never appropriate to drop a haul bag. In 2016, it appears that a climber dropped a haul bag which subsequently hit another climber and injured him severely. This thread discusses the incident.

--There are temporary closures in Yosemite due to wildfire. To read more, click here and here.

Desert Southwest:

--The Washington Post is reporting that, "In a quest to shrink national monuments last year, senior Interior Department officials dismissed evidence these public lands boosted tourism and spurred archaeological discoveries, according to documents the department released this month and retracted a day later. The thousands of pages of email correspondence chart how Interior Secretary Ryan Zinke and his aides instead tailored their survey of protected sites to emphasize the value of logging, ranching and energy development that would be unlocked if they were not designated as national monuments." To read more, click here.

Colorado:

--The Aspen Times is reporting that, "Mountain Rescue Aspen simultaneously responded to two different incidents Tuesday in the Maroon Bells Wilderness Area." In one case a climber fell and broke his wrist. In the other a grandfather and grandson were overdue. The overdue pair were found in good health while the team was helping the injured climber out. To read more, click here.

--The Daily Camera is reporting that, "A 58-year-old man was severely injured Sunday afternoon after falling about 400 feet while climbing in the area of Isabelle Glacier Lake in the Brainard Lake recreational area, according to the Boulder County Sheriff's Office." To read more, click here.


--AAI announced its prestigious Guides Choice Award at the Outdoor Retailer show this week! To see the winners, click here.

--This week is the Outdoor Retail show in Denver. Gear Junkie has an interesting piece on the event. "The outdoors industry is a historically male-dominated sector. But women have taken the reigns of one of the largest business-to-business U.S. trade shows in this space. It signals a shift in demographics and leadership that could affect the future of retail and gear in North America." To read more, click here.

--In other Outdoor Retailer News, the climbing industry is taking on sexual harassment. A group discussed the issues at the event and the results of a large scale survey of climbers on the subject. To read more, click here.

--All of your other questions about the Outdoor Retailer are answered, here.

--The Aspen Times is reporting that, "A local ski instructor sued a Denver-area man earlier this week who allegedly skied into him in February and caused neck and back injuries." To read more, click here.

--The Access Fund is reporting that, "After 23 years of ownership, Access Fund is pleased to announce the transfer of Society Turn in western Colorado to San Miguel County for long-term climbing friendly management. The 6-acre property outside Telluride features a sandstone cliff line with a couple dozen boulder problems and top rope routes. The area has been enjoyed by climbiners since the 1970s as an ideal spot to climb after work or on sunny winter days." To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--Jackson Hole News and Guide is reporting that, "Authorities have identified the climber who fatally fell 300 feet Sunday on a popular route up Storm Point in the Cascade Canyon area. Marco Korstiaan Dees, 33, was climbing Guide’s Wall on Sunday when the accident occurred. His girlfriend and climbing partner, Grace Mooney, was rescued the next morning by Jenny Lake climbing rangers. They learned of the accident from a hiker who phoned authorities after seeing a flashing light and hearing calls for help Sunday night." To read more, click here.

--CBC News is reporting that, "A 65-year-old man from B.C. died Saturday when he fell while climbing in Kananaskis Country, southwest of Calgary. STARS Air Ambulance spokeswoman Deb Tetley said crews were dispatched at about 5 p.m. to Mount Lipsett, just south of Highwood Pass, in K-Country, but were later stood down." To read more, click here.




--SnowBrains is reporting that, "Polish mountaineer and mountain runner Andrzej Bargiel, 30 has become the first person to ski down K2 (28,251-feet), the second tallest mountain in the world. He summited K2 on Sunday morning at 11:30 am and returned to Base Camp at around 7:30 pm local time." To read more, click here.

--Outside Magazine is reporting that "Patagonia, REI, the North Face, and a handful of others are attempting to change that by rethinking their business models and hiring practices. Given the degree to which people of color and members of the LGBTQ community are underrepresented in outdoor-industry jobs, it’s a formidable task. And while assessing progress is difficult at this stage, experts say there’s a long way to go." To read more, click here.

--Endurance Sportswear is reporting that, "Global outdoors leader Mammut today announced the acquisition of digital outdoors platform, Mountain Hub, for an undisclosed amount, in a push to bolster the brand’s digital community, connection to consumers, and integration of technologies across platforms." To read more, click here.

Wednesday, July 25, 2018

Sierra - Horse Creek Fire Update - July 25, 2018

The following is from Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park:

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks News Release

For Immediate Release
Fire Information Updates: (559) 565-3704
E-mail: seki_fire_info@nps.gov

 Horse Creek Fire Update (July 25, 2018)

SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK, Calif. July 25, 2018, 8:30 a.m. – The Horse Creek Fire in the John Krebs Wilderness Area of Sequoia National Park remains at 30 acres in size and is 50% contained. Containment lines have been completed around the perimeter of the fire. Crews will continue to strengthen and secure the line to increase containment throughout the day while also mopping up hot spots. Residents and visitors on Mineral King Road can expect to see isolated smokes inside the containment lines for at least the next few days.

Helicopters will continue to be used today to shuttle crews and supplies to the remote fire location, as well as to provide water drops to assist with extinguishing hot spots. While the threat of thunderstorms still exists, a predicted stable air mass over the area will continue to decrease this threat over the fire area.

The Mineral King Valley remains under a Fire Advisory. Due to the increased amount of fire personnel traffic on the Mineral King Road:

  • Effective Friday, July 27, the park will begin issuing wilderness permits for Mineral King trails that remain open. Permits can be picked up as early as 1:00 p.m. the day before entry. A limited number of walk-up permits will be available.
  • The Atwell-Hockett Trail and the Tar Gap Trail remain closed.
  • Mineral King Campgrounds remain open but could close with little notice based on changes in fire behavior, smoke, and air quality.

For questions about wilderness permits, please call (559) 565-3766 or e-mail seki_wilderness_office@nps.gov.

At this time neither the road nor any structures are directly threatened by the fire, and the road remains open. However, visitors are strongly encouraged to consider recreation options other than Mineral King in order to minimize traffic on the road.

Tulare County offers a free automated alert service that issues notices of unsafe conditions and warnings to residents on the platform of their choice (e.g., SMS, email, landline). To sign up, visit https://alerttc.com/

For more information on the Horse Creek Fire, visit https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/incident/5984/.

 - NPS -

About Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks' Fire Management Program

For fifty years, our mission has been to use the full range of options and strategies available to manage fire in the parks. This includes protecting park resources, employees, and the public from unwanted fire; building and maintaining fire resilient ecosystems; reducing the threat to local communities from wildfires emanating from the parks or adjacent lands; and recruiting, training, and retaining a professional fire management workforce.

Tuesday, July 24, 2018

Sierra - Horse Creek Fire Update - July 24, 2018

AAI just received the following email from Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks:

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks News Release

For Immediate Release
Fire Information Updates: (559) 565-3704
E-mail: seki_fire_info@nps.gov

Horse Creek Fire Update (July 24, 2018)

SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK, Calif. (7/24/18, 9 a.m.) - Firefighters continue to strengthen containment and build upon successful operations on the Horse Creek Fire.

The Horse Creek fire continued to hold at 30 acres in size overnight due to the successful work of fire crews during the day. The fire is currently 17% contained and firefighters expect to increase containment today with the addition of more Hotshot and hand crews.

Due to the remote location of this fire, which is burning in the John Krebs Wilderness Area of Sequoia National Park, helicopters continue to be used extensively not only for fire attack, but also to shuttle and resupply ground crews. Firefighters will continue full suppression actions today with both ground and air resources. Five helicopters are currently being utilized for aerial water drops while ground crews work to strengthen containment lines.

Firefighters continue to be challenged by steep terrain and high temperatures. However, a predicted stable air mass moving into the region will likely decrease the threat of thunderstorms. Fire behavior has remained moderate, with the fire creeping and smoldering along the ground. The South Central Sierra Interagency Incident Management Team remains in command of the fire and is working under a delegation of authority from Sequoia National Park.

The Mineral King Valley is now under a Fire Advisory. The Mineral King area may experience smoke impacts of varying intensity. Due to this and the increased amount of fire personnel traffic on the Mineral King Road:

  • Effective Monday, July 23, wilderness permit holders will not be able to start any trips from Mineral King trailheads until further notice. Walk-up permits will not be issued. Visitors currently on wilderness trips will be allowed to exit as planned.
  • The Atwell-Hockett Trail and the Tar Gap Trail remain closed.
  • Mineral King Campgrounds remain open but could close with little notice based on change in fire behavior, smoke, and air quality.
  • Only day-hiking is permitted on open trails.

For questions about wilderness permits, please call (559) 565-3766 or e-mail seki_wilderness_office@nps.gov.

At this time neither the road nor any structures are directly threatened by the fire, and the road remains open. However, visitors are strongly encouraged to consider recreation options other than Mineral King in order to minimize traffic on the road.

Tulare County offers a free automated alert service that issues notices of unsafe conditions and warnings to residents on the platform of their choice (e.g., SMS, email, landline). To sign up, visit https://alerttc.com/

For more information on the Horse Creek Fire, visit https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/incident/5984/.

 - NPS -

About Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks' Fire Management Program

For fifty years, our mission has been to use the full range of options and strategies available to manage fire in the parks. This includes protecting park resources, employees, and the public from unwanted fire; building and maintaining fire resilient ecosystems; reducing the threat to local communities from wildfires emanating from the parks or adjacent lands; and recruiting, training, and retaining a professional fire management workforce.

American Alpine Institute Guides Choice - 2018

The American Alpine Institute is pleased to announce the 2018 Guides Choice Award Winners! The Guides Choice has been a highly valued award for over 20 years and is long coveted by manufacturers and industry insiders. A core group of AAI guides thoroughly test products in a variety of demanding conditions across 6 states and 16 countries.

The Guides Choice Award winners were revealed at the Outdoor Retailer show this week in Denver.


Patagonia Sun Hoodys:

“Our guides love this piece. It was designed for fly fisherman, but works great for climbers. And even thought the hood wasn't designed to fit over a helmet, it fits great.” Christian Schraegle, AAI Retail Manager.

Patagonia Tropic Comfort II


This comfortable, quick drying hoody wicks moisture and provides UPF sun protection and permanent odor control for hot weather.

Features

  • Super comfortable, ultra light 4.6-oz 94% polyester/6% spandex jersey fabric with Polygiene® permanent odor control and 50+ UPF sun protection 
  • Classic, relaxed tee silhouette with generous hood designed to fit over a baseball cap.
  • Thumb holes for added sun protection for the backs of the hands.
  • Fair Trade Certified™ sewing 
  • Fabric is certified as bluesign® approved 
  • 235 g (8.3 oz) 
Patagonia Sunshade


Quick-drying, super breathable technical hoody for warm weather with UPF sun protection.

Features
  • 3.5-oz Lightweight, quick-drying 100% polyester double knit with 50+ UPF sun protection 
  • Straight cuffs with thumb holes for additional sun protection for the backs of the hands 
  • Hidden zip closure on lower front pocket 
  • Artists by color code: Andy Earl (ITBI, ITDP), Patagonia Original Art (LALB, LABE) 
  • 173 g (6.1 oz) 
Lacking fur, feathers or scales, we humans have to think up clever ways to protect ourselves from the sun. Products with the UPF designation provide built-in sun protection that won’t wear off.

To achieve sun protection, Patagonia takes a varied approach, depending on the degree of protection desired and the fabric used. Elements of the strategy range from yarn selection to fabric construction to the use of special finishes (especially for light colors which generally provide less protection).

Fabric is certified as bluesign® approved

Soto Outdoors Windmaster Stove


“I really appreciate the mastery of the engineering design on any Soto products, especially in the stove department. I started using a WindMaster in 2014, and now it's the only stove I use on my trips.” Richard Riquelme, AAI Guide.

Soto says… “Boil 2 cups of water in under 2-1/2 minutes in strong winds and gusty weather. This stove is well-made and able to stand up to harsh conditions.”… We have tested the WindMaster stove on trips to Mount Baker in the North Cascades,  on trips to Denali in Alaska up to 18,000-feet, on the summit of Aconcagua summit at 22,841-feet, and in Bolivia up to 21,000-feet. The stove always operated perfectly. It never failed to fire up and worked well regardless of the wind or temperatures.

The Soto WindMaster OD-1RXC is designed so that the pot sits close to the flame, which makes it more efficient in windy weather. and results in increased efficiency and boil time. The concave design of the burner head creates the effect of a built-in windscreen. The interchangeable pot supports make this stove efficient for whatever size pot your adventure requires.

WindMaster Stove Specifications:
  • Energy Heat Output: 2,800 kcal/h, 3,260w, 11,000 BTU
  • Duration: Burns approx.1.5 hours with 8 oz. (250g) canister
  • Weight: 0.475 lbs 
  • 2.0 oz. (60g) without the TriFlex/4Flex pot supports 
  • 2.3 oz. (67g) with the TriFlex pot support
  • 3.0.oz. (87g) with the 4Flex pot support 
  • Dimensions: 7 x 4 x 2.5 in 
  • TriFlex only (Stowed) 3.7 x 0.4 x 1.0 inch (94 x 10 x 33 mm)
  • 4Flex only (Stowed) 1.9 x 3.0 x 1.7 inch (47 x 77 x 44 mm) 

Zojirushi SM-LA60 Vacuum Insulated Bottle


“These things really keep water hot longer than any other bottles on the market. We tested it on Aconcagua on summit day. A climber got too cold and we thought we were going to have to turn him around. We had a hot drink that we prepared a number of hours earlier in one of these bottles. The climber drank the fluid, recovered and was able to finish the summit that day...!" Richard Riquelme AAI guide.

The stainless mug features an ultra-lightweight, small diameter body that makes it comfortable to hold and carry. The vacuum insulation provides excellent heat and cold retention. Available in 12, 16 and 20 oz. capacities.
  • Stainless steel vacuum insulation keeps beverages hot or cold for hours 
  • Compact lid design has fewer parts for easy cleaning 
  • New 2-step method for disassembly and reassembly of lid ensures no accidental leaks, and helps prevent the loss of parts 
  • 1-1/2" (4cm) wide mouth opening accommodates full-size ice cubes, and is easy to fill 
  • Made of BPA-free plastic and stainless steel 
Model Tested No.:
  • SM-LA60 
  • Capacity - 20 oz. / 0.60 liter 
  • Dimensions (W x D x H) - 2-3/4 x 2-3/4 x 9-3/4 inches 
  • Weight (lbs. oz.) - 0.09 
  • Heat Retention* - 190°F @ 1 hr. / 165°F @ 6 hrs. 
  • Cold Retention** - 46°F @ 6 hrs. 

*Rating is based on water at a starting temperature of 203°F (95°C) at a room temperature of 68°F (20°C)

**Rating is based on water at a starting temperature of 40°F (4°C) at a room temperature of 68°F (20°C)

Petzl Sirocco Helmet


“When you wear a Sirocco helmet, you forget that you're wearing a helmet at all. It is incredibly ligth and comfortable. Calvin Morris, AAI Guide.

Ultra-lightweight climbing and mountaineering helmet with reinforced protection.,

The SIROCCO is designed to respond to the needs of climbers and mountaineers for reduced weight and for protection. Its head-covering shape, lower in the rear, offers reinforced protection over the entire head. Optimized volume on the head, along with excellent ventilation, provides maximum comfort.

Ultra-light design: 
  • only 170 g 
  • hybrid construction with a shell in EPP (expanded polypropylene) foam and rigid crown injected with EPS (expanded polystyrene) foam 
  • Head-covering design for optimal protection against lateral, front and rear impact: 
  • carries Petzl's TOP AND SIDE PROTECTION product label 
  • head-covering shape, lower in the rear, for reinforced protection 

Maximum comfort in action: 
  • wide holes, for excellent ventilation
  • completely adjustable, thanks to the adjustable headband and chinstrap 
  • magnetic buckle facilitates fastening the chinstrap (Petzl patent) 
  • two hooks and rear elastic for attaching a headlamp
  • compatible with the VIZION eye shield 

Specifications
  • Material(s): expanded polypropylene (EPP) foam shell, polycarbonate crown, expanded polystyrene (EPS) liner, polyester webbing 
  • Certification(s): CE EN 12492, UIAA 
  • Product comes with protective storage bag and spare foam.

Petzl R.A.D. System


This is an ultra-light and compact crevasse rescue kit works extremely well for skiers who wish to operate in glaciated terrain.

The RAD SYSTEM (Rescue And Descent) kit allows skiers in mountain terrain to always have the equipment necessary for crevasse rescue, rappelling, or roping up to move through a crevasse zone. This kit contains a storage bag, 30 meters of RAD LINE 6 mm specific cordage, carabiners, ascenders and a sling. 
 
Complete, ultra-light and compact kit:
  • 30 m of RAD LINE 6 mm cordage, developed specifically for crevasse rescue, rappelling and roping up on a glacier during ski mountaineering
  • 3 ATTACHE carabiners 
  • 1 TIBLOC ascender 
  • 1 MICRO TRAXION pulley-ascender 
  • 1 FIN’ANNEAU 120 cm sling
  • equipment is contained in a storage bag 
Kit designed for action:
  • ideal bottom-of-the-pack solution for back-country skiers
  • cord is folded for immediate use without risk of knots or twists
  • two loops on the bag for attaching it to a harness or inside the backpack
  • sewn webbing loops on the top of the bag for attachment of all components of the kit
  • ice screw holder on the outside of the bag 
Ultra-light cord:
  • only 660 g for 30 m
  • sheath has rough texture for better control when rappelling and better braking when arresting a fall in a crevasse
  • stretch of the hyper-static cord is less than 2 %, to facilitate rescue maneuvers and eliminate the yo-yo effect during rappels or fall arrest in a crevasse 
Specifications
  • Material(s): polypropylene, aluminum, Dyneema®, stainless steel, nylon (bag), aramid
  • Certification(s): CE EN 564 (RAD LINE 6 mm cordage) 
  • Weight: 1,045 g


Monday, July 23, 2018

Sierra - Horse Creek Fire Update - July 23, 2018

The American Alpine Institute just received the following press release from Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks:

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks News Release

For Immediate Release
Fire Information Updates: (559) 565-3704
E-mail: seki_fire_info@nps.gov

Horse Creek Fire Update (July 23, 2018)


SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK, Calif. (7/23/18) - Crews made good progress constructing direct lines around the Horse Creek Fire’s north and west flank.

The Horse Creek Fire continued to grow slowly yesterday on the south flank in inaccessible wilderness within Sequoia National Park. The fire is highly visible for several miles on the south side of Mineral King Road. The fire is now 30 acres in size and 0% contained. Moderate fire behavior was observed during the day shift, with some isolated single tree torching, roll out, and short uphill runs. The fire was less active through the night. Fire crews have made good progress on the North and West flanks and are working to complete containment lines around the East and South flanks of the fire.

At 7:00 a.m. this morning, the South Central Sierra Interagency Type Two Incident Management Team assumed command of the fire and is working under a delegation of authority from Sequoia National Park. Firefighters are taking full suppression action on this fire and will continue to utilize both air and ground resources to contain the fire. An additional Hot Shot crew will be flown in to assist with fire suppression today. Due to the extremely steep terrain, dense forest and brush, large amount of tree mortality, and lack of trail access, this lightning-caused fire poses challenges for ground operations.

The Mineral King Valley is now under a Fire Advisory. The Mineral King Valley is seeing an increased amount of smoke, especially overnight. Due to this and the increased amount of fire personnel traffic on the Mineral King Road:

  • Effective Monday, July 23, wilderness permit holders will not be able to start any trips from Mineral King trailheads until further notice. Walk-up permits will not be issued. Visitors currently on wilderness trips will be allowed to exit as planned. 
  • The Atwell-Hockett Trail and the Tar Gap Trail remain closed. 
  • Mineral King Campgrounds remain open but could close with little notice based on changes in fire behavior, smoke, and air quality. 
  • Only day-hiking is permitted on open trails. 

For questions about wilderness permits, please call (559) 565-3766 or e-mailseki_wilderness_office@nps.gov.

At this time neither the road nor any structures are directly threatened by the fire, and the road remains open. However, visitors are strongly encouraged to consider recreation options other than Mineral King in order to minimize traffic on the road.

Tulare County offers a free automated alert service that issues notices of unsafe conditions and warnings to residents on the platform of their choice (e.g., SMS, email, landline). To sign up, visithttps://alerttc.com/

For more information on the Horse Creek Fire, visit https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/incident/5984/.

- NPS -

About Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks' Fire Management Program

For fifty years, our mission has been to use the full range of options and strategies available to manage fire in the parks. This includes protecting park resources, employees, and the public from unwanted fire; building and maintaining fire resilient ecosystems; reducing the threat to local communities from wildfires emanating from the parks or adjacent lands; and recruiting, training, and retaining a professional fire management workforce.

Thursday, July 19, 2018

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 7/19/18

Northwest:

--The Seattle Times is reporting that, "Recent icefall on Mount Rainier has rattled seismographs, and perhaps the nerves of a few climbers, after collapses on the Ingraham Glacier beginning last Friday. Ice blocks and debris tumbled at least 1,000 vertical feet and across the popular Disappointment Cleaver climbing route, according to Mount Rainier climbing rangers. 'The large ice block tumbled in the middle of the night when no parties were on the route,” according to rangers’ blog post, cautioning climbers about remaining hazards. “… Simply put, this would have been an unsurvivable event.'" To read more, click here.

--A woman fell 300-feet down the side of Mt. St. Helens on Saturday and survived. To read about it, click here.

--A climber suffered a serious injury on the side of Mt. Thompson near Snoqualmie Pass this week. To read more, click here.



--GGW8 is reporting that, "A Chinook helicopter crew lifted seven people - six rescuers and a climber who planned to end his life - from the summit of Mount Hood Friday afternoon. 'The Clackamas County Sheriff notified us that [the climber] had gone to the summit of Mount Hood because he was going to end his life up there, and then he changed his mind,' said Scott Lucas with the Oregon Office of Emergency Management."

--It looks like Cascade River Road is going to stay closed for two or three more weeks. To read more, click here.

--The draft plan to remove mountain goats from the Olympic Mountains is up for comment. To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--A climber was killed on Center Peak in Kings Canyon National Park. There is very little additional information at this time. To read more, click here.

--Here's an update on the Gorges Fire.

Desert Southwest:

--Several trails have been closed indefinitely due to flash flooding in Zion National Park. The trails  include Angels Landing, Upper Emerald Pools and the Kayenta trail. To read more, click here.

Colorado:

--These are some insane wildfire shots...

Notes from All Over:

--Rock and Ice is reporting that, "Charles David Cole III, founder of Five Ten and the inventor of Stealth Rubber, passed away on Saturday, July 14, at the age of 63." To read more, click here.

--Nearly 20,000 avalanche transceivers have been recalled from Ortovox. Click here for details.

--Low atmospheric pressure (the situation you're in when you're at high altitude) could cause depression. To read more, click here.

Friday, July 13, 2018

Anchors "In Series"

Many climbers find the transition from top-roped climbing into leading to be daunting. This is especially daunting when the move is tinged with the possibility that you will have to build your own traditional anchor. It's scary because at first it's quite difficult to trust an anchor that you've built. It's scary because maybe there aren't that many pieces in the anchor or maybe the rock is bad.

One way to eliminate some of the fear and to build a more secure anchor is to build anchors "In Series."

In the past we've discussed SRENE and ERNEST anchors. The standard is that these anchors are built off of three or four pieces with a cordellete as in the following picture.


A Standard Pre-Equalized SRENE Anchor
The angles on this particular anchor are a bit wide between each of the outside pieces.


In an ideal three piece anchor all of the pieces are completely solid. In an ideal anchor each of the pieces can hold a tremendous amount of weight by themselves. In an ideal anchor, the powerpoint can easily hold ten times the weight of the two climbers on the route.

But what if it can't?

When the pieces aren't solid, you have to add more. To keep it simple, the best way to add more pieces is to add them in series. This is a method wherein one SRENE anchor is stacked on top of another SRENE Anchor. This system allows a climber to do a couple of things. First it allows one to add more pieces to the anchor. Second, it allows those pieces to be added in a simplistic way that makes sense with a cordellette or an extra sling. And third, it spreads out the weight at the powerpoint into more equalized pieces.

An Anchor In Series with a Magic X on the Left-Hand Leg

While the preceding picture may seem to tell the whole story, there is one thing to consider when building an anchor in series. One element that is terribly important to be aware of is that if a magic x (self-equalizing twist) is used in the system, it may not be as effective as a pre-equalized knot in the system.

In the picture above, the left hand leg of the cordellette terminates in a sling clipped to two pieces and equalized with a magic x. The problem with a magic x in this kind of system is that if one of those left hand pieces blows out, the sling will become limp and the weight will not automatically transfer to the other piece in the magic x. If this happens, then all of the weight will be placed on the two pieces on the right.

It's better to build two pre-equalized anchors on top of each other when working in series. However, occasionally this isn't possible and you're forced to work with a magic x. When that happens, make sure that the pieces that are not a part of the x are extremely strong.


An Anchor In Series with a Pre-Equalized Knot on the Right-Hand Leg
This anchor is essentially a three piece anchor that was linked together in series
because the climber only had two double-shoulder length runners to build an anchor.


It is quite possible to build a vast anchor with codellettes and slings in series. And sometimes -- when the rock is very bad -- that is exactly what you have to do.

There are many other ways to add additional pieces to an anchor and to keep it SRENE, but for many who are just dipping their toes into the world of leading, anchors in series make a lot of sense. Most guides recommend that beginning level leaders work with anchors in series for a significant period of time before experimenting with other systems. This will help lay a solid intellectual framework of what an anchor is supposed to look like and what it is supposed to do.

--Jason D. Martin

Thursday, July 12, 2018

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 7/12/18

Northwest:

--An injured climber was rescued off Oregon's Broken Top Mountain this week. It appears that a rock dislodged and the female climber fell approximately 25-feet on moderate angle terrain. The rock rolled over her. To read more, click here.

--A climber with a broken arm was rescued off Mt. Baker this week. To read more, click here.

--Objective hazards on the Disappointment Clever of Mt. Rainier seem to be growing. On Monday, there was a major icefall event on the route. To read more, click here.

--The people responsible for several trailhead break-ins in Mazama and near Washington Pass have been captured. To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--The Whitney Portal was evacuated this week due to a nearby wildfire. To read more, click here.

--Specifically, the Gorges Fire is threatening Whitney Portal. The most recent report shows it to be 30% contained. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:


--Watch out for target shooters in the desert...


A climber on Johnny Vegas (5.7, II) in Red Rock Canyon.

--The Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area has recently announced that it will accept online or phone reservations for single campsites. This will make it easier for people to plan trips to Red Rocks and know beforehand that they will have a campground. To read more, click here.

Colorado:

--The Denver Post is reporting that, "A 31-year-old Denver man fell to his death Saturday while climbing a boulder near Navajo Peak in the Brainard Lake Recreational Area, authorities say." To read more, click here.

--The Denver Post is reporting that, "Two mountain goats were poached on Quandary Peak last week, and Colorado Parks and Wildlife is offering a $1,000 reward for any information about who shot and killed the animals. The two young, male goats were found shot to death Tuesday afternoon about 2.8 miles up the Quandary Peak Trail, according to a Colorado Parks and Wildlife news release." To read more, click here.

--Fox 31 is reporting that, "A climber who went off-course while seeking a shortcut had to be rescued from Capitol Peak on Tuesday, the Pitkin County Sheriff’s Office said." To read more, click here.

--Teton Gravity Research notes that, "on June 21st, a jury reached the verdict that Vail Resorts was not responsible for the death of 13-year-old Taft Conlin in an in-bounds avalanche. The decision was based on courtroom testimonies from skiers and patrollers regarding closure of the Upper and Lower Prima Cornices. But yesterday, a former Vail ski patroller, Michael Beckley, stated that the entire cornice should have been closed, in an open letter published by Vail Daily. Beckley worked at the resort for years as a ski instructor, a snowcat driver, and finally as a ski patroller. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--The Twin Cities Pioneer Press is reporting that, "The St. Croix River cliffs at Taylors Falls, Minn., nearly claimed a life Monday when a 23-year-old man fell while rock climbing, according to the Chisago County sheriff’s office. Nicholas Walberg was listed in critical condition Tuesday night, according to Regions Hospital in St. Paul, after witnesses told authorities he slipped while attempting to climb the rocky gorge in Interstate State Park on the Minnesota side of the St. Croix." To read more, click here.

--A stuck climber was rescued near Provo, Utah this week. To read more, click here.

--The Washington Post is reporting on the continued problems for recreation on public lands under the current administration. "The National Park Service does not have one. Neither does the Bureau of Land Management. Same goes for the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. None of those three land management agencies, which together oversee more than 480 million acres of surface area nationwide, according to figures on their websites, have received a permanent director during the nearly 18 months since Donald Trump became president. Instead, those agencies are being run by temporary “acting” officials — people not formally nominated by President Trump and who do not require confirmation by the Senate." To read more, click here.

--Outdoor clothing companies don't do a good job representing people of all shapes and sizes. To read more, click here.

The Piolet d'Or

--The Lifetime Achievement Award for the prestigious Piolet d'Or award has never been presented to a woman. Gripped has a great article on five women who definitely deserve the award. To read more, click here.

--Holy sites are often sought out be recreationalists who don't understand the cultural meaning of an area. This can have a negative impact on local communities and on the recreationalist. To read more, click here.

--Apparently people are paying a premium to go glamping inside New York City. To read more, click here.

--And finally, Outside has a piece on a guy who got attacked by a bear, bit by a rattlesnake and bit by a shark, all within a three-year period. To read the piece, click here.

Monday, July 9, 2018

Breaking News: Whitney Portal Evacuated due to Fire!

AAI just received this email from Sequoia and King's Canyon National Park:

Due to increased activity on the southern flank of the Gorges Fire, the Whitney Portal area has been evacuated. This evacuation was done in coordination with the Inyo County Sheriff’s Office. This includes campgrounds, residents, and the Whitney Portal Store. The Hogback and Whitney Portal Roads are closed.

Hikers who exit at Whitney Portal that do not have a vehicle may call a shuttle service  to arrange to be picked up. Shuttle services will only be assisting exiting hikers as conditions permit. Additional road closures include the Foothill Road and Moffat Ranch Road as well as any other roads that enter the fire area. Please avoid the fire area for your safety and for our firefighters’ safety.

Friday, July 6, 2018

Film Review: Mountain

Mountain is an awesome film...! It opens with a tremendous quote. "Those who dance are considered insane...by those who cannot hear the music..."

That sums up our lives as climbers. But people still ask, "why do you climb?" Mountain does its part in answering that question. The movie explores mountains and mountain sports all over the world. The film features spectacular scenery and heart-stopping exposure. With little more than images, music and some narration by Willam Defoe, we see people climbing, mountaineering, skiing, base jumping and mountain biking in some of the most wild terrain imaginable. And it is beautiful. It explains why we climb without ever explaining why we climb...


There is no doubt that this is a film built from other films. There is footage from several years of Banff Film Festival World Tours and Reel Rock Film tours. But it is some of the most fantastic footage out there. We get to revisit some of the best scenes from films like Cold, Sketchy Andy, Ice Revolution, Alone on the Wall, The Swiss Machine, Honnold 3.0, Meru, A Line Across the Sky, and many many others.

One might argue that there is too much recycled footage in this film. And perhaps there is, for someone who sees a lot of mountain documentaries. But this footage has been completely repackaged. The film -- unlike those others -- was not made for a mountain audience. Instead, it was made for general consumption and was designed to be a visual feast.

Mountain doesn't do anything like other mountain films. It does not provide non-stop narration and interviews with climbers and skiers. Instead, it just provides us with non-stop beauty and action. It tries to be something different, and by that measure it succeeds.


Another piece of criticism of the film is that it doesn't have a story.

And to be honest, it doesn't.

But that's okay. The film was designed to be not only inspirational, but to be a compendium to a classical music concert performed by the Australian Chamber Orchestra. And it works... We are transported to the highest places on the planet while we float on every note.

The combination of films that provided the source material for this documentary have one thing in common: a climber named, Renan Ozturk. Renan is not a Hollywood guy by any means. He is a climber who, over the years, has built a reputation as a master cinematographer. Indeed, Renan gets the cinematography credit for the film.

We have all seen Renan's work -- in many cases, without realizing it -- and it's clear that he has an exceptional eye. Renan understands the power of mountain imagery. And he understands how to capture it and bring it to the masses in a way that allows us to feel like we are there with him.


And though Renan provided much of the footage, he wasn't the master mind behind the project. Instead it was the Australian Chamber Orchestra that commissioned Jennifer Preedom, who previously directed the acclaimed film Sherpa, to develop the documentary. As such, this was a very different type of process. Preedhom wasn't the only "director." The film was certainly overseen by her, but it was also put together by a combination of musicians and editors in order to create the right feel...

Mountain is a beautiful film and well-worth one's time, especially if you can see it on the biggest screen possible.

--Jason D. Martin





Thursday, July 5, 2018

Red Rock Canyon Campground Single Sites to move to National Reservation System

From the BLM in Las Vegas:

LAS VEGAS – Visitors may reserve single campground sites at Red Rock Canyon Campground online or by phone for visits starting in 2019.

Beginning October 15, 2018, Red Rock Canyon Campsite reservations for camping dates from January 1, 2019, and beyond can be made at http://www.recreation.gov, or by calling the national reservation hotline 1-877-444-6777. Reservations can be made up to six months in advance but not less than 48 hours of the desired arrival date. Camping rates have not changed and are $20 per night for the standard and RV sites, $10 for the walk-to sites, and $60 for the group sites.

Currently, only the seven large group campsites at Red Rock Canyon Campground are on the online reservation system; however, 66 of the 80 single campsites will be available on the system for camping starting January 1, 2019. The remaining 14 campsites will be offered on a first-come first-served basis. 

Recreation.gov is managed by National Recreation Reservation Service. The NRRS is a partnership between Federal Land Management Agencies to provide quality reservation services for facilities and activities on public lands. Additional information about recreation opportunities at BLM’s Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area can be found at: https://www.blm.gov/red-rock-canyon-nca.