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The Chinese government has banned all expeditions on the north face of Everest until May 10th. Though they haven't specifically said so in their official pronouncements, in the weeks leading up to May 10th, the government plans to have a team of Chinese climbers summit the world's highest peak with the Olympic torch in preparation for this summer's Olympic games. This decision widely viewed as a reaction to a fear that Tibetan protesters may interfere with the Chinese climb. Not surprisingly, Tibetan activists see this "torch event" as one further attempt by the Chinese to legitimize their control of Tibet.
Mountain guide companies and independent expeditions around the world are working to reschedule their trips. Some guide services plan to reroute their trips onto the south side of the mountain, while others are postponing their expeditions for later in the season. To read more on this story in The Seattle Times, please follow this link.
Though weather and conditions can be different every year, the historical best days for summiting Everest are May 15 to 25. If the Chinese don't let teams approach the north side until after May 10, they will have little chance of summiting at any time close to that good weather window because it takes so long to acclimatize and gradually move supplies up the mountain.
The Chinese are also trying to impose their worries and wishes on the Nepalese government, and they have asked Nepal to similarly restrict climbs on the south side of the mountain. The Nepalese are apparently considering some level of cooperation.
The American Alpine Institute/ Adventures Consultants 2008 Everest Expedition runs March 30 to June 2 and will again be climbing the South Col route. Expedition leader and AC Director Guy Cotter has been in regular touch with Nepalese authorities, and it is our hope that if there are any restrictions, they will be limited to keeping teams at or below Camp 3 until after May 10th, rather than keeping them at base camp. If so, the restriction won't have much impact on the expedition.
There is also wide worry that the Chinese will lose climbers in the process. China has a history of pushing teams on the mountain and a high fatality rate. We can speculate, that because of that proclivity, there will probably be a high level of secrecy surrounding the Chinese expedition. Deaths experienced for the sake of Olympic torch PR is probably not an outcome that will work well for the Chinese, and that potential problem may actually be occurring to a few people in high places in the government - then again - perhaps not.
The Ice Agers, an AAI Denali Expedition team, are a mature (all but one are over 50) group of climbers taking a "slow and steady" approach up the West Buttress route. Following a slightly less aggressive schedule, the expedition has been extended four days to allow for extra weather and rest days, an additional camp and acclimatization day on the lower mountain, and it has been slightly modified to accommodate for the extra food and fuel that will be necessary to support the extra days on Denali. For more information on the Ice Agers and to see climber profiles, please see the AAI Ice Agers website.
Ice Agers team members from across the U.S. and Great Britain are sharing training tips and some members have formed training programs with the team's primary guide, Joseph Anderson. For several of the team members, this will be their second summit attempt on Denali, also known as Mount McKinley, the highest peak in North America. Because the climb is so rigorous, team members have training climbs or fun climbs scheduled prior to the May 19th departure date.
Art Huseonica, and Ice Ager from Crofton, Maryland, and Ray Bellem, from Prescott, Arizona, recently took a trip to the Grand Canyon, and climbed a strenuous rim-to-river and back out in one day itinerary. Below are photos from the trip and excerpts from letters that Ray and Art wrote to each other after return
ing home. Once the Ice Agers depart for Denali, you'll be able to follow their progress on AAI's Denali Expedition Dispatches web page.
Ray,
Our journey was probably the most scenic I've been on. I was surprised that besides one other couple, we were the only folks doing the rim-to-river and back in one day - now I know why, it's like doing two marathons in one day! But what extremes - from 20 degrees and snow at the South Rim to sun and up to 70+ degrees along the river. Plus, a total elevation change of 9200' in a ten hour period.
I'm finally getting the dust cleared out of my eyes and throat from trying to keep up with you for the 17.5 mile journey along those narrow trails; no guard rails to boot!
Let's do this again! - Art
Hi Art,
Glad you're home safe. I just flew to Denver yesterday and I am now anticipating my swim training camp in Boulder starting this Friday. That canyon hike sure gave me bragging rights with my geezer friends at the health club! The canyon required far more stamina and endurance than Whitney, and I felt fine the whole way taking my diluted Gatorade and peanut butter sandwiches.
I got a little nervous during the last two miles when we were ice skating up the trail with the thousand foot precipice. The only physical effects of the canyon hike was that my right foot got sore two days after we finished - a delayed reaction. 
Otherwise everything else works fine. Without your desire and encouragement to do the Canyon, I wouldn't have done it on my own - again thanks.
My next guided trip will be Rim - to Rim - to Rim in two days with an overnight on the North Rim. That would total about 48 miles with over 20,000' elevation change in two days! If you want to go, you will have the best guide in the Canyon and you can't beat the guide fee - a Club Sandwich at Denny's.
My best - Ray
Every week, we take the reader into the inspiring and ever-changing life of an American Alpine Institute guide. Every AAI guide is very experienced in alpine and rock climbing, and all have received professional training in advanced guiding techniques and rescue. Collectively they have one of the highest levels of wilderness first aid, avalanche, and Leave No Trace training among the world's international guide services. For profiles on all AAI guides, please click here.
This week, we interview Richard Riquelme.
Age: 38Hometown: Chillan, ChileRecent trips and expeditions with AAI: Ecuador High Altitude Expedition, Backcountry Skiing in North Cascades
A Guide's Life
How were you introduced to mountaineering?
I was 15 years old when my father took my family to the Chillan's Hot Springs Ski Resort, which is located in the Andean mountain range two hours from our home. We climbed a little mountain all the way to the summit at about 8400', though my mom and sister didn't make it. I really enjoyed it and after that I started going camping, and climbed some minor peaks - mostly in the Andes under 10,000' - with a friend who knew about knots and gear because he was a boy scout. Then when I was in college, I started taking courses in rock and ice climbing and mountaineering, and joined the mountain club at my university. All of the sudden, I was guiding professionally at the age of 24!
How do you stay in shape and what are your favorite training activities?
I don't have any secret training regimen, but I do walk as much as I can every day, and I do a lot of hiking, backpacking, climbing, and skiing. Fortunately, my work keeps me in shape.
Who is the most inspiring person in your climbing life?
Reinhold Messner and Wolfgang Gullich.
What are your other interests besides climbing?
I enjoy technical reading about avalanche research, new gear and climbing techniques, and human history (like the Mayan Calendar), as well as all sorts of other sports. But spending time drinking beers with friends is my favorite one (he laughs).
Where is your favorite place to travel?
My favorite place is this beautiful planet where we live, and for travel - anywhere on the planet is good for me. I like exploring new areas, whatever the geography.
On the Technical Side
Describe your climbing style.
I go clean and free as much as I can, minimizing my impact where and whenever I can.
What has been your most technically difficult climb?
My most difficult climb was the variation of the direct west face route to the south arete of Toqllaraju (19,797') in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru . It was incredible because it was about 18 hours round trip, and we ran out of water. Also, the visibility was very bad because there was a blizzard with heavy snow, high winds, and cold temperatures. The hardest part was to locate camp in the dark, while it was snowing, but we eventually found the tent in the middle of the night at 17,400'. We were dead with exhaustion from this glacier descent in the dark!
What is your biggest strength as a climber? Biggest weakness?
My biggest strength is my mental status, and my biggest weakness, I would say, is the lack of specific training of group muscles for rock climbing.
A Guide on Guiding
Is there anything you know now that you'd wish you'd known when you were just beginning to climb?
Yes, why I did not start climbing and skiing earlier.
When you guide, what piece of advice do you find you give most often to climbers?
I tell others to be easy on themselves, because a lot of people ask too much of themselves. And when a beginner starts, the over-acheivement approach doesn't let them see the potential joy one can get if they just don't push too much.
What qualities do you think are most important in a guide?
Passion, Patience, and Mental Peace
Name a few guide"turn-ons" (for example, what makes a good climber on one of your expeditions?).
My top ones are self-sufficiency, common sense, and the willingness to leave the comfort zone to learn and experience new ideas. It is important to see life from someone else's perspective.
Describe a memorable even that has occurred while guiding for AAI.
Every time after I teach some skill or technique, I like it when the climber does it like they have known how to do it for years.
What are your must-haves (e.g. favorite foods, equipment)?
I really like light and tasty foods like couscous and mash potatoes (which can be done in no time), and also a pouch or two of tuna fish in red or yellow curry - depending on how much you like spicy food, MMM-m!
As for gear, light is right and lighter is righter. A food dryer is great if you really want to make meals on your own, a Jetboil stove (they work really well from mid-spring to mid-fall), a Grivel Evolution Ice Axe, and an AirTech G-12 pair of crampons, and for expeditions I like the Denali Intuition liners for my plastic boots.
Describe your achievement of which you are the most proud.
I am proud that I am more open to learn from people like you and me, rather than just from "experts in the field."
Any closing comments on what you're looking forward to in the next year?
Well, I'm excited about all the studies I've been doing on avalanches the last few months. I teach avalanche courses and backcountry skiing, as well as guiding the peaks, and I am psyched about teaching more avalanche courses next December. This spring, my wife and I are going to Chile in April to visit my family for two weeks. Its been four years and I have two new nephews I haven't met. And this summer, I am happy to be going back to Alaska and to be guiding Denali, the great one, before returning to the North Cascades for some awesome alpine climbing. It's going to be a great year! Oh yeah!
AAI's 2008-09 catalog is coming soon! We are very excited about the new programs, photos, and staff biographies in this issue, and we look forward to the release.
Most importantly, we want to make sure we can get a copy to you. Please take a moment to update your mailing information (and to refresh your currency on our mailing list). It will only take a minute - just follow this link.
In the Andes of Ecuador and the Sierra Nevada of California, two important summits were reached last week.
Guide Aidan Loehr and climber Julius Gawlas (shown in photo) summited Mt. Whitney (14,494'). An early season climb, the route involved a technical snow ascent. Julius Gawlas photo.
In California, the Sierra experienced a little bit of a winter heat wave over the last few days, creating soft snows at lower elevations and a lot of work in breaking trail. AAI guide Aidan Loehr called in this morning to report that his team came off the mountain yesterday after summiting 14,494-foot Whitney late on Wednesday.
The team found they could drive to within five miles of Whitney Portal. In many years you can get a couple of miles closer. There was so much snow even down low that they used snowshoes on the entire approach. On Wednesday, the third day of their trip, they moved camp from Lower Boy Scout Lake to Upper Boy Scout Lake, arriving there at about 10:30am. With weather conditions calm and sunny, they decided to make a summit attempt that afternoon, rather than waiting until the next morning which was their original plan.
Camp at Upper Boy Scout Lake (11,300'). Julius Gawlas photo.
Aidan and climber Julius Gawlas (Cupertino, CA) left camp at about 12:30pm, and Aidan reported, “there was no broken trail, so for the first part of the climb, we had our work cut out for us. It was brutal trail breaking in the soft snow for the first part, but we got into great conditions a little higher on the route.” Climbing the Mountaineers Route, they found soft snow in the lower half of the first gulley, but “beautiful, hard now in the upper half, all the way up to the notch.” Aidan said, “From there we moved into the west facing upper gulleys with the first 100 feet on 3rd and 4th class rock, and the final 300 feet on just excellent 50-degree hard packed snow. It was great cramponing and just soft enough that we could kick a little bit of a toe in to make a little step. That made it very comfortable and fun climbing. The final 50-100 vertical feet to the summit was a walk on wind-blown rock in gorgeous weather. We reached the summit at about 5:30, just before sunset, and we had really gorgeous red skies off to the west. Usually we’re summiting early in the day on these climbs, so this was fun to have different lighting the whole way. We had an easy descent and were back in camp by 8:30 with big appetites. It was a great day.”
Climber Julius Gawlas of Cupertino, CA resting in front of the East Face of Mt. Whitney. Julius Gawlas photo.
In Ecuador, climbers Matthias Liebert (Greensboro, NC), Alexandra Levin (New York City) and Michael Brennan (Scranton, PA) with AAI guide Jose Landazuri summited 18,997-foot Cayambe a little after 10:00am on Thursday, February 28th.
Cayambe and its hut. The icefall in the bottom right is where the climbing team practiced skills before making their successful ascent. Chuck Park photo.
The large crevasse surrounding the summit of Cayambe was surmounted on the southeast side of the peak, out of view here to the right. Melissa Park photo.
According to the Forest Service, the United States currently loses 6,000 acres of open space every day -- four acres per minute! Accordingly, 'conservation' is a word that we hear every day. Applied in many different contexts including energy, land, and economics, conservation is a timely tool for us to use in our daily lives.
The Access Fund is a non-profit organization with a dual conservation mission: to keep climbing areas open and to maintain the climbing environment. Backed by large-scale partners like Black Diamond, REI, CLIF Bar, and Prana, the Access Fund was founded as a way for climbers to give back to their recreation areas.
Adopt-a-Crag and The Boulder Project are the Access Fund's most visible programs. Adopt-a-Crag is a stewardship project that assists in forming partnerships between climbers and landowners. The goal of this particular program is to initiate litter clean ups, trail restoration, and wildlife monitoring in a designated climbing location. The Boulder Project is another stewardship program, one that focuses more specifically on low impact climbing. According to the Access Fund's website, low impact climbing includes understanding land ownership, minimizing impacts on off-trail locations, and speaking up to climbers who don't recognize the importance of conserving recreation areas.
The Access Fund also advocates for climbing conservation in several other significant ways. One important
resource they offer is creating climbing management plans for public lands. These plans help to maintain availability of climbing areas by mitigating the effects of recreationists. Their team of staff and volunteers also spend many hours lobbying in D.C., and maintaining a comprehensive list of recreation area access issues.
How You Can Help
Stay informed -- Make sure you have the latest information on access and closures for your region. Click Here to search by state.
Adopt-a-Crag -- Give back to your favorite climbing area by forming a stewardship group.
Play Gunther's Big Day game -- have a little bouldering fun when you're bored at work. Everytime someone buys the full version, a $10 donation is made to the Access Fund.
Activist Tools -- The Access Fund provides materials for climbers and landowners on how to be an activist.
Photo credits:
Top right - Access Fund
Bottom left - Access Fund, Patitucci
The Chinese government has banned all expeditions on the north face of Everest until May 10th. Though they haven't specifically said so in their official pronouncements, in the weeks leading up to May 10th, the government plans to have a team of Chinese climbers summit the world's highest peak with the Olympic torch in preparation for this summer's Olympic games. This decision widely viewed as a reaction to a fear that Tibetan protesters may interfere with the Chinese climb. Not surprisingly, Tibetan activists see this "torch event" as one further attempt by the Chinese to legitimize their control of Tibet.
