Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/15/18

Northwest:

Smith Rock State Park

--Adam Ondra just did the unthinkable. He onsighted Just Do It (5.14c) in Smith Rocks State Park in Oregon. Onsighting is when one completes a route on the first try. It's crazy that this guy is climbing so hard. To read more, click here.

--Somebody appears to be chipping and torching holds on Squamish boulders. To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--Somebody took it upon themselves to chop DOA (5.11c/d) at Lover's Leap. This route reportedly was put up on lead, ground up. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--The Arizona Daily Sun is reporting that, "Multiple agencies responded to a call about a 34-year-old climber who fell 40 feet at a popular climbing spot near Oak Creek Vista off of State Route 89A Saturday afternoon. The Phoenix woman sustained multiple serious injuries when she fell while rappelling, including a back injury." To read more, click here.

--The Las Vegas Review Journal is reporting that, "The Nevada State Historic Preservation Office will host a training session Saturday in Mesquite for volunteers interested in protecting the state’s archaeological treasures. State and federal land managers are looking for site stewards to serve as the 'eyes and ears' for dozens of historic and prehistoric cultural sites across the state." To read more, click here.

Colorado and Utah:

--The Access Fund has some exciting news! "Access Fund, the national non-profit organization that keeps climbing areas open and protected, is thrilled to announce that Chris Winter will join the organization as Executive Director this January. He replaces Brady Robinson, who stepped down in June after leading the climbing advocacy organization for eleven years." To read more, click here.

--It looks like Colorado ski resorts are going to open early. Check it out!

--Avalanche mitigation is starting. Following is a recent video from Loveland Pass:



--The National Parks Traveler is reporting that, "The Trust for Public Land has finalized the donation to the National Park Service of a 35-acre inholding inside Zion National Park. The land, known as Firepit Knoll, will be incorporated into the park and protected from future development. The donation was made possible thanks to support from the National Park Foundation, the National Park Trust and the the George S. and Dolores Doré Eccles Foundation of Salt Lake City." To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--What do the election results mean for climbing? The Access Fund has the answer, here.

--Rock and Ice is reporting that, "GRIT&ROCK announced a launch of an annual international First Ascent Expedition Prize to enable female first ascents. Now in its third annual installment, the award, the largest of its kind globally, funds projects of female-led expedition teams up to the amount of USD 10,000." It appears that the application period is open. To read more, click here.

--So that "cute" video of the bear cub trying to climb to it's mother...yeah, those bears were reacting to the drone chasing them. At one point, the bear cub slides all the way down the slope into the rocks. It's horrible. They're terrified... From Slate, " Many Twitter users found the video to be inspiring, in a way: Look, that baby bear never gave up! Many wildlife biologists, however, saw something rather different. They saw a disturbing example of how some irresponsible drone pilots are happy to harass wildlife to get a perfect picture, putting animals at risk and tarnishing the reputation of all users of the technology." To read more, click here.

--And finally, there is a cool little line on Mount McGillivray in the Canadian Rockies called Arterial Spurt. This three-pitch WI3 is seldom climbed due to avalanche danger. A couple of guys were able to sneak it in in mid-November before there was much snow. Check out their climb for some stoke, below!

Update on Eden Fire in Sequoia National Park

The American Alpine Institute just received the following from Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park:

SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK, Calif. November 14, 2018 - The Eden Fire continues to grow and is now 343 acres as mapped via the parks’ helicopter. Fire has slowed its progress in the Eden Creek drainage on the western edge of the fire. Fire however has established itself on the east side of the eastern branch of Eden Creek drainage. One spot fire was observed on the east flank approximately 200 feet off the main fire and burning actively. Fire does not appear to be moving up-slope (south) towards Homers Nose.

Continued positive fire behavior is occurring with consumption of brush and downed logs. Some standing dead trees, called snags, may have been the source of some spotting. Numerous snags are present in the area from tree mortality and the lack of modern fire history. The parks will continue to monitor the fire via helicopter while scouting for natural barriers along the rocky ridge (Homer's Nose) to the south. Additionally the parks will actively track any new growth downhill toward the Kaweah drainage.

Smoke is visible from the western side of Sequoia National Park. Most of it is coming from a trio of fires in Sequoia National Forest with some smoke contribution from the Eden Fire. Other smoke in the area is from the larger fires currently burning in California. For more information on non-NPS fires, visits www.inciweb.nwcg.gov or www.fire.ca.gov.

“The parks take air quality concerns very seriously,” said Sequoia National Park Fire Management Officer Kelly Singer. “However, as this fire burns in designated wilderness, taking valuable firefighting resources away from the larger more dangerous fires in California to suppress this ecologically beneficial fire would be a mistake.”

There is a low pressure trough that's forecasted to come in the middle of next week, possibly Wednesday or Thursday. It may or may not have precipitation but it will help in clearing out the air. If you are sensitive to smoke please refer to one of the following links for recommendations on reducing your exposure to fine particulates. http://www.valleyair.org/aqinfo/aqdataidx.htm or https://www.epa.gov/pm-pollution 

Another thing to keep in mind is that in addition to the smoke from wildland fires, daily activities in the valley (vehicles, agricultural activities, industry) are also contributing to these particulates that are trapped in this region. It's an unfortunate meteorological condition during some extreme fire events that we're experiencing.

All areas of Sequoia National Park remain open as previously scheduled. Additionally, there are no impacts to any of the normal operations in the Mineral King section of Sequoia National Park.

Pictures, videos, and maps of the Eden Fire, please visit the official website: https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/incident/6248/

The Eden Fire continues to move with moderate to low intensity restoring fire to the Eden Creek Grove of giant sequoias. - NPS Photo.

- NPS -

Staying Found

Here's a nice little video on some baseline trail and backcountry safety...



Please note that Satellite Messaging Systems like the InReach or the SPOT can be triggered on accident. It's not a bad idea to store these devices in a hard-sided box. If you accidentally trigger one of these devices, make sure to notify the authorities that it was a mistake.

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/8/18

Northwest:

--The Access Fund and all Northwest Climbers want your help. "The Methow Headwaters is home to some of the most outstanding climbing and mountaineering in Washington state, including the sport climbs up the Chewack River, the massive multi-pitch climbing on the Goat Wall, alpine rock climbing and glacier mountaineering around the Silver Star Massif, cragging near Robinson Creek, and mountaineering and long alpine rock climbs along the Pacific Crest Trail. Several years ago, a mining company filed for permits to conduct exploratory drilling for copper on Goat Peak at the north end of the Methow Valley. This kind of exploratory drilling is the first step to developing a large-scale mine that would devastate the upper Methow region. Access Fund is working with a coalition of stakeholders on several advocacy efforts to protect this incredible region and its climbing resources.To read more and to take action, click here.

--Outside is reporting on one of the deadliest climbing disasters in US history. "About an hour before midnight on Mother’s Day in 1986, a group of teenagers assembled at an Episcopal high school in Portland, Oregon, to embark on an expedition. Their goal was to summit Mount Hood, completing an adventure program that was required for all sophomores. What followed was a story of tragedy and loss that is commemorated annually at the institution it changed forever." To read more, click here.

--So they're blindfolding goats in the Olympics to keep them from freaking out when they get helicoptered to the Cascades. To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--A climber in Yosemite sustained a 50-foot fall last week on Mt. Watkins. Following is dramatic helicopter footage of the rescue that ensued. To read more about the accident, click here.



Colorado and Utah:

--Sketchy Andy is at it again. In the following video, Andy Lewis BASE jumps off a cliff, lands on a tiny tower, repacks and jumps again. Crazy...!



Notes from All Over:

--Pique is reporting that, "Juneau Mountain Rescue and the Alaska State Troopers have suspended efforts to recover the remains of Squamish climber Marc-André Leclerc, 25, and fellow climber Ryan Johnson, 34. The two men were reported missing on March 7 after they were late returning from a climb in the Mendenhall Ice Field in Juneau." To read more, click here.

--A scientist in the Antarctic stabbed a co-worker because he kept telling him how the books he was reading were going to end. This is not okay. But you still shouldn't tell people how books end when you're on an expedition in a remote region. To read more, click here.

--The American Alpine Club is now accepting applications for their Cutting Edge Grant. To read more, click here.

--Here are some major takeaways from this week's elections and the outdoor industry.

--The Guardian is reporting that, "the Girl Scouts of the United States of America have filed a trademark infringement lawsuit against the Boy Scouts of America after the Boy Scouts decided to drop “Boy” from its program and start welcoming older girls. According to the complaint filed on Tuesday, the Boy Scouts do not have a monopoly over such terms as “scouts” or “scouting”, and its decision to rebrand its program Scouts BSA will erode the Girl Scouts brand and “marginalize” their activities." To read more, click here.

--As of this writing, it appears that Democrat Katie Hill won the 25th Congressional District in California. We'd like to believe that the following ad certainly helped her candidacy...

Alex Honnold - TED Talk

When Alex Honnold climbed Freerider on El Capitan, it was an important moment in climbing history. But it didn't come easily to Honnold. It was the culmination of years of preparation.

Check out the video about this event below:

--Jason D. Martin

How to Belay a Leader with an Assisted Braking Device

Over the last dozen years or so, the assisted braking device has become a major component of a climber's kit. There are several of these devices on the market now. And each of them has their advantages and disadvantages. That said, the two most popular tend to be the Petzl GriGri and the Trango Cinch.

It should be noted that as the technology improves, more and more designs for assisted braking devices are appearing. Many of these new designs don't have a "moving side plate" with a "rope channel" like the GriGri or the Cinch. As those designs are so different from these, this blog will focus specifically on the GriGri and the Cinch.



The primary belaying position for the GriGri is the PBUS position, with a guide hand above the device on the rope and a brake hand below. As the leader moves up the rock, the belayer slowly feeds rope through the device, gently pulling with guide hand, while pushing through with the brake hand. If the rope is fed at an appropriate speed, the cam in the GriGri will not engage.

In this principle belay position, the belayer's brake hand never leaves the rope. If there is a need to bring in slack, the belayer reverts to the PBUS toproping technique.

Because the cam automatically engages with a sudden acceleration of the rope, it can be difficult to pay out slack quickly. The simplest solution to this problem is to never allow the rope to suddenly accelerate. This may be accomplished by the leader placing gear at chest level or lower and extending the protection with runners. Doing so allows the leader to clip into the protection without having to give a quick tug on the rope.

The second way is to shift the brake hand, sliding it up the rope to the device, and brace the index finger against the lip of the moving sideplate. Press the thumb of the brake hand down on the cam where the handle is attached while continuing to hold the brake strand of the rope. Pull slack with the guide hand. Once finished, immediately return to the principle belay position.

Petzl recommends that you:

1. Always keep the brake strand in the brake hand. There is never a valid reason to let go of the brake strand.
2. Never grip the device with the entire hand.
3. Anticipate the climber's movement, including when additional rope is needed to make a clip.

Many of the preceding principles also apply to the Trango Cinch. The biggest difference is that when one pays out slack, they should hold the hole in the device with two fingers, while keeping the rope in the other three. From there, they will pull slack out sideways.

Assisted braking devices are awesome, but only if they are used the right way. Be sure to read all technical notices on any equipment you choose to purchase.

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 11/1/18

Northwest:

--ABC News is reporting that, "A phone call from a concerned woman likely saved the life of a hiker from Germany who was attempting to travel through the Cascade Mountains to the Canadian border without proper gear as snow and cold hit the region, authorities said." To read more, click here.

--Crosscut is reporting that, "climate change could spell double trouble for national parks: A new study, published last week in the journal Environmental Research Letters, says that these areas are heating up twice as fast than the U.S. as a whole. This includes high-mountain parks like those in the Pacific Northwest, where the loss of glaciers creates a ripple effect across ecosystems, which compounds warming and threats to wildlife and plant communities." To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--The Sierra Wave has printed a "State of the Inyo Forest" article. The article breaks down all the campgrounds that are now closed and road closures. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--Starting today, November 1st, the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area Scenic Drive will be on it's winter schedule and will be open from 6am to 5pm. To read more, click here.

--The boardwalk area in Red Springs in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area is closed and will be rebuilt this fall. To read more, click here.

A climber rappelling off the Panty Wall in Red Rock Canyon.

--The Las Vegas Review Journal is reporting that, "An environmental nonprofit can proceed to trial with its lawsuit aimed at stopping the Clark County Commission from approving the development of thousands of homes overlooking the Red Rock Canyon, a judge has ruled." To read more, click here.

Colorado and Utah:

--An early desert tower climber, Huntly Ingalls, has died at the age of 90. Ingalls was on the first ascents of classics like the Castleton Tower, the Titan, Standing Rock, and North Six Shooter. To read more, check out climbing.com.

--The St. George News is reporting that the Lava Point Road in Zion National Park will be closed for repairs. This will likely have an impact on other roads entering the Park. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--Rocky Mountain Outlook is reporting on one of the first avalanches of the season. "Three backcountry skiers had a lucky escape after an avalanche carried them 100 metres down a gully on Mount Patterson in Banff National Park on Monday (Oct. 29). One of the skiers, Cam McLellan, sustained a head injury and was taken by ambulance to Banff’s Mineral Springs Hospital, while his two buddies Noah Bangle and Jeremy Laporte sustained minor injuries." To read more, click here.

--A climber was injured at the Linville Gorge area of North Carolina this week. To read more, click here.

--GearJunkie is reporting that, "The north face of Grandes Jorasses offers 3,937 feet of rock climbing. Dani Arnold broke the speed record this summer, completing the Cassin route in 2 hours 4 minutes without a rope." To read more, click here. To see a video about the ascent, click below:


--Gripped is reporting on a cool new four pitch 5.9 near Canmore. To read more, click here.