Friday, November 8, 2019

Setting Up an Toprope on a Two-Bolt Anchor

This video, produced by the AMGA and Outdoor Research, covers several techniques that one might use to set-up a toprope.

The techniques included are:

  • Two Draws
  • One Draw, One Locker Draw
  • Pre-Equalized Anchor (Mono-Directional Anchor)
  • Quad
  • Mussey Hooks
  • Pre-Threaded No-Impact Anchor
Check it out:

At the end of the video, it notes that people should not lower off of fixed hardware when toproping. And that if they do wish to lower, then they should lower once. While I generally agree with this, there are certainly some areas where the local ethic allows for toproping off fixed gear. That said, it's important to know if something like that is acceptable before committing to it...

--Jason D. Martin

1 comment:

Katherine Keith said...

The pro-tip about putting the non-locking carabiner in the overhand knot, for easier untying, is great. Thanks!