--Climbing is reporting that, "Just over a year ago, in November 2023, the National Park Service (NPS) and U.S. Forest Service introduced a proposal that would define fixed anchors as “installations,” which are prohibited in Wilderness areas. In effect, this would have made climbing all but illegal across wilderness-designated public lands. Along with anchors, bolts, rap rings, slung trees, irrevocably stuck nuts, pitons, and any climbing gear left behind would qualify as an 'installation.' (sic) But after a year of vigorous advocacy from The Access Fund and the climbing community, on Wednesday, December 18, 2024, the NPS withdrew its proposal." To read more, click here.
Northwest:
--Powder is reporting that, "the skier who went missing from Sun Peaks Resort last week was found deceased three days after he went missing, according to a press release published by the Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP)." To read more, click here.
Climbers on Mt. Rainier.
--Mt. Rainier National Park has a timed entry program. But wouldn't it be better if there was also public transportation in the Park? An op-ed in the Urbanist argues that point, here.
Sierra:
--Yep. It was bound to happen. A bear collided with a snowboarder at Heavenly. Read more.
Colorado and Utah:
--The Idaho Statesman is reporting that, "A climber became stranded on a Colorado mountain when his shoes froze solid, rescuers said. He had set out to climb the Mount Bierstadt the morning of Friday, Dec. 13, and told his father to call 911 if he hadn’t contacted him by 8 p.m., the Alpine Rescue Team said on Facebook." To read more, click here.
--SnowBrains is reporting that, "a 32-year-old snowboarder fell approximately 47 feet from the Ruby Express chairlift at Keystone Ski Resort. The incident occurred shortly after the man boarded the lift and was attempting to tighten his bindings. The safety bar was up at the time, and the snowboarder briefly held onto the armrest before falling onto the Diamondback trail, which was not yet open for the season and covered with rocks and a thin layer of snow." To read more, click here.
--Sky-Hi News is reporting that, "Officials initially thought that people were caught in an avalanche that occurred Saturday, Dec. 14, near No Name Bench on Berthoud Pass. However, it was determined that nobody was trapped, according to the Clear Creek County Sheriff’s Office." To read more, click here.
--Two projects just outside Zion National Park have received money from the Inflation Reduction Act. Each will enhance the Park and the Park's wildlife. Read about it here.
Notes from All Over:
--13 WGME is reporting that, "The New Hampshire Fish and Game Department says an ice climber was helped out after they were injured from a fall. At around 7:30 p.m. on Saturday, New Hampshire Fish and Game was notified that an ice climber was injured on Shoestring Gully." To read more, click here.
--If you've spent time climbing above 6000-meters, please consider filling out this survey for scientists that are studying different acclimatization processes.
--The American Alpine Club has several grant opportunities for climbers of all skill levels. Learn more.
--SGB Media is reporting that the Bureau of Economic Analysis' "latest rankings are in its latest findings, which showed that in 2023, outdoor recreation generated $1.2 trillion in economic output (2.3 percent of the national GDP), supported 5 million jobs, and accounted for 3.1 percent of all U.S. employees. Updated data also indicates a 36 percent growth in the outdoor recreation economy since 2012." To read more, click here.
--The Squamish Chief is reporting that, "Hundreds of condolences are pouring in for a woman who died while wingsuit BASE jumping in Squamish. A person crashed into the trees near the top of the "apron" on the west side of the Stawamus Chief on Dec. 5." To read more, click here.
The north end of the Stuamus Chief in Squamish.
--A journalist is looking into a climber that's been missing for nearly 20-years. Roger Jung disappeared in October of 2005 and has never been found. Here's a thread about his disappearance with a recent update by the journalist looking into the story.
--Here's an ongoing thread that covers water ice conditions in Washington for the 2024-2025 season.
Sierra:
--Climbing is reporting on two luminaries that have been breaking records in Yosemite. "When Michael Vaill and Tanner Wanish nabbed the Yosemite Triple Crown speed record on October 20, the climbing world was taken by surprise." sic. "On October 26, the pair upped the ante, climbing the three routes of the Triple Crown (El Cap’s Nose, Watkins’ South Face, and Half Dome’s Regular Northwest Face), and then adding the South Face on Washington Column—nearly 9,000 vertical feet of climbing and 86 pitches—all in 21 hours and 50 minutes. The linkup wasn’t just fast. It had never been performed before in Yosemite Valley history, certainly not under 24 hours. They dubbed their effort the 'Yosemite Quadruple.'" To read more, click here.
--Mammoth Mountain had the snowiest November in a decade. Read about it here.
Desert Southwest:
--A thru-hiker cut nearly two-days off the previous Fastest Known Time for the 800-mile Arizona Trail. Read about it here.
--This is some good news for EV owners. From Desert Sun: "Electric vehicle maker Rivian on Thursday opened a charging station in Joshua Tree that can be used by owners of many other EV brands as well."
Colorado and Utah:
--Fox 31 is reporting that, "A skier was partially buried and injured in an avalanche while skiing in the backcountry last week. Tuesday, the Colorado Avalanche Information Center released its final report on the avalanche, which happened last Tuesday, Dec. 3 on the Colorado Mines Peak, northeast of Berthoud Pass." To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--If you've spent time climbing above 6000-meters, please consider filling out this survey for scientists that are studying different acclimatization processes.
--Outdoor Sportswire is reporting that, "Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (JHMR) announced today that it set the world record for the most people skiing and riding in jeans on Saturday, Dec. 7, drawing 3,320 participants for the Resort’s 2nd Annual Ski In Jeans Day." To read more, click here.
--Turns out the United Healthcare killer is a climber. Check out this piece in Gripped.
--It appears that some climbing areas are being impacted by the ongoing Malibu wildfire. Check it out, here.
--So in China, if you're attractive, you can be hired as a "climbing buddy." The more attractive you are, the more you can make. Read about it here.
--A backpacker in BC was found alive after he was reported missing 50-days ago! Read about it here.
--SGB Media is reporting that, "Amer Sports, Inc., the parent of Arc’teryx, Salomon, Wilson, Peak Performance, Atomic, and Armada, among others, reported that its Technical Apparel segment, which primarily includes the Arc’teryx brand business but also supports the Peak Performance brand, increased 34 percent, or 33 percent in constant-currency terms, to $520 million in the 2024 third quarter." To read more, click here.
--Mountain Loop Highway and Mt. Pilchuck Road have been closed for the winter.
--SnowBrains is reporting that, "Snowhaven Ski & Tubing Area, one of Ski Idaho’s 19 destinations and one of America’s only municipally owned ski areas, may not open this year because it has been unable to find a manager." To read more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
3 News is reporting that, "A local dog rescue organization successfully saved three dogs this week after they were found roaming near Red Rock Canyon." To read more, click here.
--Gripped is reporting that, "Three climbers are missing after they failed to return from a planned ascent of Mount Cook, New Zealand’s highest peak. The Americans, who have been identified as Kurt Blair, 56, from Colorado and Carlos Romero, 50, of California, are certified mountain guides, according to the website of the American Mountain Guides Association. A statement by New Zealand’s police did not name the Canadian climber, citing the need to notify his family." To read more, click here.
--It appears that there was a head injury when a climber flipped upside down in Red River Gorge. Read more.
--A snowboarder triggered an early season avalanche in Tuckerman's Ravine on Mt. Washington. Read more and watch a video here.
--Jackson Hole's Ski in Jeans day is coming up on the 7th. This is the day where they only charge $25 to each person wearing jeans. Read more.
--The Daily is reporting that, "The outdoor industry’s economic contrbution outpaced the U.S. economy in 2023, growing to $1.2 trillion in 2023, according to the latest data collected by the Bureau of Economic Analysis (BEA), which released the data on Wednesday. 'Outdoor recreation is more than just a pastime enjoyed by over 57% of Americans; it’s a cornerstone of our nation’s economy,' said Kent Ebersole, the president of Outdoor Industry Association (OIA), in a statement. That’s an increase from last year’s $1.1 trillion milestone." To read more, click here.
--As the planet warms, we can all expect more volcanic eruptions. According to the Scientific American, "a new study shows that even relatively small-scale climatic changes affect volcanic activity." To read more, click here.
--Powder is reporting that, "Just ahead of their December 6th opening day, Alberta’s Castle Mountain has announced a huge terrain expansion project. The mountain plans to install its first high-speed quad on Mt. Haig, which currently operates as catskiing terrain. The lift being installed was formerly Sunshine Village’s Angel Express Quad Chair and will have its components refurbished and updated throughout the 2024/25 season before opening in the 2025/26 season." To read more, click here.
--The storm over the weekend and into this week dumped a lot of snow in the backcountry. As such, there were some avalanche incidents. However, all involved were able to self-rescue.
--State Route 20 (North Cascades Highway) has closed for the season due to avalanche risk. Read more.
Sierra:
--Expedition Portal is reporting that, "California has become the first state to ban the sale of single-use propane cylinders. Governor Gavin Newsom signed Senate Bill 1280 into law, which mandates that all one-pound propane canisters sold in California must be refillable or reusable beginning January 1, 2028. The bill, introduced by Senator John Laird of Santa Cruz, is designed to promote sustainable outdoor recreation and alleviate the environmental impact caused by disposable propane canisters." To read more, click here.
Mt. Whitney
--SnowBrains is reporting that, "Two ill-equipped hikers were rescued from Mount Whitney, California, on November 2nd after a failed summit attempt left them exhausted and stranded on the trail. The pair, who had no prior mountaineering experience, began their ascent at 6 p.m. on Friday, carrying a staggering 150 pounds of newly purchased gear and five gallons of water." To read more, click here.
--Gripped is reporting that, "Alex Honnold is back in Yosemite to work on free-climbing The Nose, one of the most famous rock climbs in the world. While it’s regularly aid climbed at a modest aid grade, it’s only been freed a handful of times. Honnold announced on social media that he’s been projecting the cruxes of The Nose with accomplished alpinist and big wall climber Brette Harrington." To read more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--Next week is Thanksgiving week. For many climbing areas in the southwest, it is the busiest time of the year. Please be respectful of one another, share campsites and let faster teams pass on multi-pitch routes. Also be aware that slower teams are not required to let you pass. Whomever gets to the route first has priority.
--Travel and Leisure is reporting that, "Visiting Joshua Tree National Park will soon cost more when the popular California spot raises reservation fees. Starting Dec. 1, the park will increase fees for all reservations on recreation.gov, including for campgrounds and tours. Then on Jan. 1, 2025, the National Park Service will increase the amenity fee as well as raise the fee for first-come, first-serve campgrounds, according to the National Park Service." To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--Outside is reporting that, "on November 14, Jenni Lowe, president of the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation (ALCF) and widow of climbing legend Alex Lowe, announced that the nonprofit she founded in his name will officially dissolve before the end of 2025. The nonprofit’s assets—including the iconic Khumbu Climbing Center—will go to the Juniper Fund, a Nepal-based charity helmed by celebrity mountaineers Melissa Arnot Reid and David Morton. Jenni Lowe first initiated the handoff process about a year ago." To read more, click here.
--Gripped is reporting that, "German climber Lara Neumeier and Austrian climber Nemuel Fuerle have repeated El Niño via the Pineapple Express variation, an 800-metre 5.13c on El Capitan in Yosemite. Established in 1998 by Alex and Thomas Huber, El Niño is one of Yosemite’s most demanding routes. The Pineapple Express variation was added in 2018 by Sonnie Trotter, supported by Tommy Caldwell, as the first free ascent of El Niño in its entirety. The line circumnavigates eight meters of blank granite with a new three-pitch option. The variation includes the infamous La Niña pitch, which is the route’s hardest section." To read more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--KTNV is reporting that, "A climber was rescued at Red Rock on Sunday after being knocked unconscious. The person fell while leading a climbing route, hitting their head and knocking them unconscious for roughly 20 minutes, according to LVMPD Search and Rescue." To read more, click here.
Colorado and Utah:
--Outside is reporting that, "on November 4, federal authorities issued misdemeanor charges against two Colorado residents for allegedly stealing historic artifacts from a roped-off area within Utah’s Canyonlands National Park this past March.The residents, identified as Roxanne McKnight, 39, and Dusty Spencer, 43, both of Pagosa Springs, allegedly entered the signed closure area around Cave Spring Cowboy Camp on March 23. According to a release from the U.S. attorney’s office in Utah, the two then 'handled and stole numerous historic artifacts.'" To read more, click here.
--The Daily is reporting that, "The new leadership team at Black Diamond Equipment continues to make progress in restructuring the brand with the goal of having a smaller, more profitable business that focuses on the highest volume and highest margin styles. Those initiatives paid off during the third quarter ended Sept. 30, with the brand’s adjusted EBITDA up 25%, while revenue dropped 19% to $49.3 million." To read more, click here.
--The Telluride Daily Planet is reporting that, "After recent storms, winter appears to have settled in around Telluride, and people are already heading out in the backcountry. Fresh snow also brings winter driving conditions and avalanche risks. During last Wednesday’s meeting, the San Miguel Board of County Commissioners (BOCC) discussed an intergovernmental agreement with Colorado Avalanche Information Center (CAIC) to help mitigate avalanches on County Road D65 near Ophir. The agreement will have CAIC offer training, education, data collection and avalanche hazard assessment for County Route 630 from CO Highway 145 to the town of Ophir." To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--SnowBrains is reporting on the avalanche burial and rescue of three hikers in Alberta. To read about it, click here.
--The New York Times is reporting that, "Law enforcement officials have captured a man who was wanted for murder in rural Tennessee, ending a multistate manhunt in a bizarre case involving a suspicious emergency call, a false identity and a fake bear attack." To read more, click here.
--The following video is crazy. Climbers were on a loose multi-pitch line when they dropped a rock and it nearly hit a free soloist below. The line is at Upper Kananaskis Lake in Alberta, Canada. Check it out.
--Outdoor Gear Lab is reporting that, "As of November, thousands of REI members may no longer have access to one of the retailer’s best perks: a 365-day return window. In fact, they won’t be able to make any returns at all." To read more, click here.
--There is a voluntary recall of some Mammut Barryvox avalanche beacons. Read more.
--The Associate Press is reporting that, "Wyoming officials voted Thursday to proceed with selling a spectacular, pristine piece of state property within Grand Teton National Park to the federal government for $100 million and end decades of threats to sell it to the highest-bidding private developer." To read more, click here.
--Powder is reporting that, "Earlier this month, Tamarack Resort, Idaho, announced that it had doubled its developable acreage by acquiring 500 acres of land contiguous to the resort. The land connects to 300 acres Tamarack acquired in 2019, meaning that, in total, the resort’s land real estate development holdings have expanded by 800 acres." To read more, click here.
--It looks like the road to Paradise will be closed Tuesdays through Thursdays at Mount Rainier this year. Learn more.
Desert Southwest:
--The NPS has posted an article about fire recovery in Joshua Tree National Park. To read the piece, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--Climbing is reporting that, "On October 30, longtime Bay Area climber Jason William Crist, 38, was arrested in Pacifica, California, and charged with nine felonies for alleged events that took place around the state between March 2019 and October 2023. He faces 29 counts associated with sexual violence, a result of four police reports describing interactions with him in Pacifica, Presidio, Joshua Tree, and Yosemite. The felony charges include forcible rape, sexual battery, and assault. He posted bail for $500,000." There is a bit of a culture of silence in our community. It's important that if you see something, that you say something. Read more, here.
--A new book has recently been released on the 50 Classic Ice Climbs in Western Canada. Check it out.
--Microsoft Start is reporting that, "GoPro (NASDAQ:GPRO) said it plans to cut about 26% of its workforce, as part of an updated restructuring plan. The wearable video camera maker in August said it intended to cut 15% of its workforce from its ending second quarter headcount of 925 full-time employees. The restructuring was expected to begin in the third quarter of this year and to be substantially complete in the fourth quarter." To read more, click here.
--SGB Media is reporting that, "Compass Diversified Inc. (CODI) reported sales grew 22.3 percent at BOA and 25.2 percent at PrimaLoft to lead the gains among its active lifestyle brands. At BOA, sales reached $45.6 million against $37.3 million a year ago. Non-GAAP adjusted EBITDA for BOA reached $17.1 million against $13.2 million a year ago, representing a gain of 28.4 percent." To read more, click here.
--See the winners of this year's Banff Mountain Film Festival, here.
Happy Halloween from the Guides and Staff at the American Alpine Institute!
This likely AI generated picture has been making its way around the internet. It seemed like something worth posting on Halloween.
Sierra:
--Gripped is reporting that, "this week, Tanner Wanish and Michael Vaill, who recently took the Triple Crown speed record from Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds, have added a fourth wall to their sub-24-hour push." To read more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--Traffic in Red Rock Canyon will be disrupted by a marathon in Las Vegas on Sunday. Read more.
--The LAist is covering graffiti issues in Joshua Tree. Read the story, here. Notes from All Over:
--Outside is reporting that, "the U.S. Forest Service is a federal agency that manages 193 million acres of land, an area about the size of Texas. Next year, the agency will have to manage that land without its seasonal workforce. In September, the agency announced that it would be suspending all seasonal hiring for the 2025 season, a decision that will cut about 2,400 jobs. Nearly all of those positions are field-based jobs, ranging from biologists and timber workers to trail technicians and recreation staff. In addition, the agency is freezing all external hiring for permanent positions. The only exception to the hiring freeze are the roughly 11,300 firefighters hired by the agency every year." To read more, click here.
Climbing, skiing and mountaineering are dangerous sports. When you undertake an outdoor, backcountry, or an alpine adventure without a guide, you assume total responsibility for your decisions and wellbeing. Conditions in the mountains are constantly changing, and no guidebook or computer web blog can take the place of solid training and experience. Though this site features descriptions of roads, trails, climbing routes, and other natural features, you cannot assume that because something is described here that it has not changed since last observed or that it will be safe for you or your party.
AAI assumes no responsibility or liability for your use of the information presented in this blog. With regard to all backcountry travel and climbing, you must make your own assessments and decisions, and you assume all risks in applying them.