Friday, September 30, 2022

Knots for Rappelling

There are two key knots for rappelling. The first is the overhand flat bend and the second is the barrel knot (sometimes referred to as the strangle knot). In the following video Climbing magazine's Jullie Ellison demonstrates these two important knots...

The overhand flat bend (also known as the Euro Death Knot) is the go to knot for tying two ropes together for rappelling. The primary reason we use this over another knot is because of the way it rides over the terrain when you pull the rope. The knot exists on one side of tied ropes which makes it less likely to get caught when you pull the ropes...

As Julie notes, some people are concerned that the overhand flat bend will roll over on itself and roll off the end of the ropes. In the video, she shows to tie the knot pretty far from the ends of the rope. This length makes it impossible for the knot to roll. There are a couple of other things you can do to keep the knot from rolling as well...

 In this first photo, I tied an extra overhand around both strands. 
This would decrease the liklihood of rolling.

In this second photo, I tied two overhand flat bends and seated themselves together.
This is my preferred style and I tie my cordelletes into loops with this as well as my ropes.

Some people think that if they tie two ropes together with a flat figure-eight that it will be stronger. Ironically, this is incredibly weak and can roll with as little as 2kN of force (under 500lbs). There have been fatalities from using the flat figure-eight to tie two ropes together.

Julie goes on to talk about tying barrel knots in the end of the rope. She recommends triple barrel knots, but a double is fine, as long as it is pulled tight. A loosly tied double barrel knot can become untied.

A double barrel knot.

Historically climbers and guides didn't tie knots in the ends of their ropes. They were afraid that the ropes would get caught below. That is changing. There have been way too many accidents because there were no knots in the ropes. If you're worried that the ends will get caught below, simple tie an overhand or an eight in the end of the rope and clip it to your harness during the rappel...

--Jason D. Martin

Thursday, September 29, 2022

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 9/29/22


--Fire bans have been lifted in Mt. Rainier National Park.

--So a guy rode his bike down the classic Burgers and Fries wall in Squamish. To see a video of this stunt and more weird Squamish stunts, click here.


--There is a fledgling movement on to petition for the elimination of the mandatory big wall permit system that is slated to go into effect soon. It should be noted that this system is similar to other backcountry permit systems in National Parks in the United States. To read more, click here.

--Inyo National Forest is looking for seasonal rangers.

--The Tahoe Daily Tribune is reporting that, "fire restrictions will be lifted Monday, Sept. 26, in the Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest due to recent rain and predicted cooler temperatures, officials announced Friday. The fire restrictions will be lifted at 12:01 a.m. on Monday, in the the Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest’s Austin-Tonopah, Bridgeport, Carson, Mountain City-Ruby Mountains-Jarbidge, and Santa Rosa Ranger districts." To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--The US Department of the Interior recently posted, "during a visit to Las Vegas today, Deputy Secretary of the Interior Tommy Beaudreau announced that over $5.9 million in fiscal year 2022 funding from President Biden’s Bipartisan Infrastructure Law will support fuels management projects in Nevada on 14,655 acres of land across the state. This is part of $103 million allocated by the Department of the Interior earlier this year to reduce wildfire risk, mitigate impacts and rehabilitate burned areas. The additional funding will help complete fuels treatments on nearly 2 million acres nationwide this fiscal year, a substantial increase over the prior year. " To read more, click here.

Colorado and Utah:

--The Aspen Times is reporting that, "Aspen Skiing Co. faces civil allegations over its alleged refusal to refund a near $60,000 down payment to a family that booked and cancelled a wedding event at the Little Nell because of pandemic restrictions. Claims against Skico in a lawsuit filed in Pitkin County District Court by Iowa resident Cynthia Baxter and her daughter, Kayla Baxter of Syracuse, New York, include breach of contract and unjust enrichment. Other claims relate to civil fraud, not acting in good faith and negligent misrepresentation." To read more, 

Notes from All Over:

Hilaree Nelson

--The news of Hilaree Nelson's death has been everywhere, and it has shaken the ski mountaineering community to its core. We have found a few tributes that we'd like to share:
--"The U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Forest Service announced more than $37 million in investments to improve vital recreation infrastructure located on national forests and grasslands. These investments are made possible by President Biden’s Bipartisan Infrastructure Law, which devotes unprecedented resources to rural infrastructure improvements, including repairs on national forest lands. The funding, which includes $19 million for recreation sites and $18 million for cabins and historic buildings, aims to improve the nation’s recreation infrastructure, which is critical to the health, wellness, and prosperity of the American people." To read more, click here.--Reuters is reporting that, "the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency on Saturday launched a new office that will be focused on the needs of minority communities overburdened by pollution and oversee the delivery of $3 billion in environmental justice grants created by the recent passage of new climate legislation." To read more, click here.

Monday, September 26, 2022

A Celebration of Women in the Outdoors - Where the Wild Things Play

This is a repost...but an awesome one...

Outdoor Research -- the clothing manufacturer -- has done a great job with inclusion in their recent promotions. It started with their awesome takedown of GQ and its sexist photo shoot that only showed women watching. In ORs response it turned the sexism on its head by showing the men watching the women. And the result is both poignant and funny.

Now, they have produced a great film entitled Where the Wild Things Play, about women in adventure sports playing in the outdoors. Check it out below:

--Jason D. Martin

Thursday, September 22, 2022

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 9/22/22


--From the Washington Trails Association: "The Snow Lake trail has reopened after a month and a half of construction! The project included a half mile of trail reconstruction and was funded by the Great American Outdoors Act, which has provided much-needed funding for deferred trail maintenance projects. Ruby Beach has also reopened after a summer of construction. The parking area, access road and restrooms were improved, and pedestrian safety and accessibility features were added like sidewalks, crosswalks, curbs and steps." The Snow Lake Trail is used to access the Tooth and Chair Peak. To read more, click here.

--As of this writing, the Bolt Creek Fire that closed Highway 2 was 79% contained and the highway was still closed. Please note that this info could be old by the time you read it. To read more, click here.


--Somebody killed a black bear within the town limits of Mammoth Lakes.

--The Sierra Sun Times is reporting that, "Yosemite National Park officials report the Superintendent of Yosemite National Park has lifted fire restrictions due to the decrease in fire danger with the recent weather the park has received." To read more, click here.

Colorado and Utah:

--Gripped is reporting that, "several climbing communities are mourning the death of Maya Humeau, who died in a climbing accident this past Tuesday. She was 22 years old. Reports say that Humeau fell around 30 metres while climbing on the Black Wall on Mount Spalding. The Clear Creek County Sheriff’s Office said Humeau’s climbing partner called 911 and that several parties, including the sheriff’s deputies, an alpine rescue team and others responded to the scene." To read more, click here.

--The Coloradan is reporting that, "Rocky Mountain National Park said its search and rescue members were briefly able to communicate with the man who became lost in wintry conditions and died on Longs Peak over the weekend." To read more, click here. To see a TikTok with some additional info, click below:
The park in a Tuesday morning news release identified the man who died as Russell Jacobs, 25, of Westminster. His body was recovered Sunday.@superglamp Longs Fatality Update. #longspeak #news #rockymountainnationalpark #rmnp #14ers #14er #colorado14ers #colorado #LikeAMonarch #nationalpark #sad ♬ Chill Vibes - Tollan Kim
--Out There Colorado is reporting that, "according to a report from Custer County Search and Rescue, a 'cliffed-out' climber was saved after getting off-route on the notorious Crestone Needle mountain in Colorado's Sangre de Cristo Range. A 'cliffed-out' situation occurs when a climber moves into terrain where they are unable to safely proceed or backtrack, thus, they can become stuck. On September 17, the climber contacted emergency services to report the situation. Temperatures in the area were dropping and winds were moving in, but the climber was well-prepared with suitable clothing, a GPS communication device, a cell phone and charging bank, a bright orange bivy bag that made spotting him easier, a headlamp, and enough food and water." To read more, click here.

--It appears that several boulders in Utah have been altered to make the problems easier. To read more, click here.

--Route name controversies will never die. But this one is truly distasteful. Someone named a route after a young woman that was murdered. The link brings you to a mountainproject discussion about it.

Notes from All Over:

--Jimmy Chin has a new series coming out that explores how dangerous moments impacted the lives of extreme athletes. To read about it, click here. To see a trailer, click below:

--Finalists in the Banff Mountain Book Festival have been announced.

--The Globe and Mail is reporting that, "The federal government plans to drop the COVID-19 vaccination requirement for people who enter Canada by the end of September, the same day it ends random testing of arrivals and makes optional the ArriveCan app." To read more, click here.

Monday, September 19, 2022

Finger Injuries in Climbing

The hangboard.

It sits above the doorway in the office, taunting me. It sits above the doorway, daring me to train. It sits above the doorway, and stares me down. It sits above the doorway...

I can't help it. I'm a climber. It's in my genes. I have to hang on it. I have to do pull-ups on it. I have to climb.

But the reality is that hanging on a hangboard is not climbing. Hangboards are supposed to be for training. In truth hangboards are one of the best ways climbers have devised to obtain sports injuries.

I know only too well. One day I succumbed to the devious taunts of the board and began to train on it. I succumbed and pulled something in my ring finger.

A climber on the Boy Scout Wall in Red Rock Canyon
Photo by Jason Martin

After doing a little research I discovered that I probably injured one of the pulleys in my finger. A great website called climbinginjuries.comprovided me with everything that I needed to know in order to get better. They indicated that I had a pulley injury in my finger and they identified three levels of pulley injury.

  • Grade III: A grade three injury usually involves a complete rupture of the pulley creating bowstringing of the tendon. Symptoms of this severe soft tissue injury includes local pain in the pulley, swelling or even bruising, pain when squeezing, pain when extending the finger, and most disturbingly those who get this injury often hear a pop inside their finger.
  • Grade II: A grade two injury is identified by a partial rupture of the pulley tendon. This injury is characterized by local pain at the pulley, pain when squeezing and occasionally pain when extending a finger.
  • Grade I: A grade one injury is characterized by local pain at the pulley, pain when squeezing and a sprain of the finger ligaments (collateral ligaments).


These injuries can be quite serious. Some people may require months to recover from a Grade III pulley rupture. has a prescribed method for treatment:

Go buy some TheraPutty! All orthopedic doctors and physical therapists will recommend putty as a tool for successful recovery.(2) The fingers generally receive poor blood flow so getting blood to the injured area is important. Contrast baths have had mixed results in the literature, but it wouldn't hurt to try. To do a contrast bath, get a bowl of warm water, and cold water. Put injured finger in cold water for a few minutes, then place it immediately in the warm water for a few minutes. Repeat 3-5 times. Finish with the cold water. This could be done after squeezing the putty ball to "flush out" the injured joint. Massaging the effected area can be effective as well. Start out lightly and gradually increase the pressure.

  • Grade III: - Immediately- Stop climbing Apply ice or cold immediately, no more than 15 minutes at a time (1-2 days) Take ibuprofen for 1- 2 day Keep the hand elevated Week 1-2 Don't climb! Don't immobilize the finger. Unless there is a lot of pain, open and close your hand often VERY light massage at the site of the injury. Concentrate on other aspects of your life. Week 4-8 Warm the hands by use of a bath or an electric blanket, then squeeze the yellow (softest) putty. Don't push it, if there's pain…stop. Repeat a few times per day. Go to Grade II Treatment.
  • Grade II: (Week 1-2) No climbing Warm the hands by use of a bath or an electric blanket, then squeeze the red putty. Don't push it, if there's pain…stop. Repeat a few times per day. Lubricate and lightly massage at the site of the injury. (Week 3-6) Tape the injured finger, stretch your forearms (this relieves the stress on the finger tendons) and climb thebiggest holds you can find. Start easy, this will be the quickest way to recovery. If you climb too hard, too fast, then return to the start of Grade 2 and do not collect $200. Always stretch your forearms after warming up and prior to climbing. Start squeezing the medium to firm putty. Lubricate and massage the finger at the site of the injury a couple of times/day. Start lightly and gradually increase the intensity using very short strokes on the injured site. Go to Grade I Treatment
  • Grade I (Week 1) Tape the injured finger and continue to climb at a level well below your normal level. Gradually increase the stresses on the fingers. Stretch your forearms after warming up and prior to climbing. This relieves the stress on the finger tendons. Squeeze the medium to firm putty a few times per day. Lubricate and massage the finger at the site of the injury. Start light and gradually increase intensity. Very short strokes on the injured site. Expected outcome Take advice from a practitioner who specializes in climbing. However, if treated early and effectively, with an appropriately graded return to activity, recovery will usually take 3-8 weeks. However, if the injury is pushed beyond its stage of recovery, re-injury will occur and may result in a chronic injury that will require a much more protracted rehabilitation period.

The best way to recover from a finger injury is to avoid getting hurt in the first place. Here are a few rules to live by:

  • Always warm up on easy climbs. Don't jump straight onto the hardest thing you can get up. 
  • Stretch your fingers. 
  • Don't overtrain. If you are climbing hard then you should probably avoid climbing every day. Strong sport climbers will often climb every other day. 
  • Stretch your fingers again. 
  • Massage your forearms between burns. 
  • Stretch your fingers more.

Sooner or later my finger will heal up and when it does I'll train more consciously. The hangboard definitely requires a bit more care. The last thing I need is another finger injury to crimp my crimping style!

--Jason D. Martin

Friday, September 16, 2022

Snake Bites: First Aid and Prevention

As most of the programs we run in the Southwest are in the desert, we are often asked about venomous snakes. Are there snakes in Red Rock? Are there snakes in Joshua Tree? Are they dangerous?

The answer to all three questions is yes...and no. There are rattlesnakes in both Red Rock and Joshua Tree, but they are uncommon in both venues. Large populations of predatory birds help keep the snake populations low. It is unlikely that you will encounter a snake in either location. And even if you do, the likelihood of a problem with a snake is very low.

Many rattlesnakes blend in with their surroundings.

Statistically the mostly likely group of individuals to be bitten by a snake are between the ages of 15 and 25 years-old and are male. Most of these bites take place on the hands or forearms. I couldn't find any statistics about the involvement of alcohol in snake bites.

Based on my last sentence, what do you suppose such statistics suggest?

Yep, you guessed it. They're messing with them.

Millions of people live, work and play in the same places where snakes live, work and play. In the continental United States less than 8,000 people are bitten by snakes every year and as stated above, a large percentage of them are literally asking for it.

In the unlikely event that somebody in your party does receive a snakebite, don't panic and try to keep the victim calm. Many snakebites happen because the snake is defending itself. When a snake bites out of defense it is less likely to envenomate. So there is the possibility that there is no venom in the bite. So there may be nothing to panic about.

If there is venom in the bite, panicking will only raise one's heart-rate and allow the venom to move more quickly through the system. It is incredibly important to keep the victim calm. Remove any jewelry or rings from any extremity that has been bitten. If there is venom in the bite, there will be significant swelling -- so much that a ring could become stuck, cutting off blood flow and ultimately causing the loss of a finger.

In the old movies, John Wayne loved to cut open a snakebite to suck out the venom. John Wayne was apparently unaware of hepatitis, HIV, cytomegalovirus or any of a number of other blood-borne dangers. Doctors and nurses don't wear latex gloves for nothing. Sucking venom out of a wound flies in the face of a basic tenant of first aid, body substance isolation.

Obviously if someone is bitten by a snake, call for emergency assistance immediately. Responding quickly is crucial. While waiting for emergency assistance:
  • Wash the bite with soap and water.
  • Immobilize the bitten area and keep it lower than the heart.
  • Cover the area with a clean, cool compress or a moist dressing to minimize swelling and discomfort.
  • Monitor vital signs.
If a victim is unable to reach medical care within 30 minutes, the American Red Cross recommends:
  • Apply a bandage, wrapped two to four inches above the bite, to help slow the venom. This should not cut off the flow of blood from a vein or artery - the band should be loose enough to slip a finger under it.
  • It is possible to place a suction deviceover the bite to help draw venom out of the wound without making cuts. These devices are often included in commercial snake bite kits. However, the value of these devices is debatable.
Physicians often use antivenin -- an antidote to snake venom -- to treat serious snake bites. Antivenin is derived from antibodies created in a sheep's blood serum when the animal is injected with snake venom. Because antivenin is obtained from horses, snake bite victims sensitive to horse products must be carefully managed.

The best way to avoid a snakebite is to avoid a snake. If you see one, don't mess with it. Both you and the snake will be much happier in the long-run.

--Jason D. Martin

Thursday, September 15, 2022

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 9/15/22


--Unofficial Networks is reporting that, "the 2020-21 season was a record-breaking winter for Idaho ski resorts. Ski Idaho announced that 2.15 million guests shredded at the ski resorts in the state, beating the prior record of 1.88 million people that was set in the 2018-19 season. It also achieved the fifth most skier visits per capita in the United States, only getting beaten out by New Hampshire, Utah, Colorado, and Vermont." To read more, click here.

---KOMO News is reporting that, "the Bolt Creek fire, which began early Saturday morning, is now 5% contained as of Wednesday – an increase from 2% on Monday. Officials say the fire, burning between Index and Skykomish along US 2, has burned through about 9,440 acres. Conditions have calmed and lower winds and higher humidity has slowed the blaze." To read more, click here.

--If you haven't seen this video from some hikers that probably should have checked where the fires were before going out, take a look below. Clearly, this pair should have put some more time into fire research before their trip, but after that, they did about as well as anyone could when they became surrounded by fire:

--SnowBrains is reporting that, "In a report put out by the Central Oregon Daily News, Mount Bachelor Ski Resort in Bend, Oregon is planning to sell daily lift tickets for the 22/23 Winter Season at two different price points based on its guest’s willingness to sign a liability release. The news broke after an important email was sent to the resort’s season pass holders by Mount Bachelor GM and President John McLeod. Though the exact prices were not laid out on in the email, McLeod had informed recipients that the current pricing model will change and is linked to the release of liability. Lower-priced tickets will be available to those who sign the resort’s standard liability release and higher-priced tickets will allow users to skip the release of liability." To read more, click here.


--The Sierra Wave is reporting that, "the Inyo National Forest is pleased to announce that Sarah Clawson, District Ranger on the Prescott National Forest, will serve as Acting Forest Supervisor on the Inyo National Forest for the next four months beginning September 12, 2022. During this time, Lesley Yen will be serving as Acting Forest Supervisor on the Coconino National Forest." To read more, click here.

Colorado and Utah:

--Fox 31 is reporting that, "the Clear Creek County Sheriff’s Office says a Boulder woman died after falling from a popular rock climbing area north of Mount Spalding. The fall happened on Tuesday around 9:50 a.m. near the Black Wall climbing area. The sheriff’s office, Alpine Rescue Team, and Flight For Life Colorado arrived to help the injured climber." To read more, click here.

--Climbing is reporting that, "One climber was killed on Capitol Peak (14,137 feet) outside Aspen, Colorado, last week, while the mountain was the scene of other accidents—Mountain Rescue Aspen was called out to the Capitol valley four times in nearly as many days." To read more, click here.

--Unnoffical Networks is reporting that, "back in November, a famous ski instructor got into a collision while skiing at Eldora, causing him to die. Since then, the snowboarder who crashed into the skier escaped criminal charges but still faces class two petty charges, resulting in a maximum fine of $1000. The Denver Gazette reports that the legal trial over the death of Ronald Lemaster has been delayed for the third time. Ronald LeMaster was a famous ski instructor based in Colorado. If you’re into reading books about skiing, you’ll recognize some of his work: Ultimate Skiing, The Essential Guide to Skiing, and the Skiers Edge." To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--The New York Times is reporting that, "A half century after founding the outdoor apparel maker Patagonia, Yvon Chouinard, the eccentric rock climber who became a reluctant billionaire with his unconventional spin on capitalism, has given the company away. Rather than selling the company or taking it public, Mr. Chouinard, his wife and two adult children have transferred their ownership of Patagonia, valued at about $3 billion, to a specially designed trust and a nonprofit organization. They were created to preserve the company’s independence and ensure that all of its profits — some $100 million a year — are used to combat climate change and protect undeveloped land around the globe." To read more, click here.

--The Hill is reporting that, "the Interior Department announced Thursday that it has completed the removal of a slur for Native American women from federal place names after announcing a review in November. In the announcement, the department said the federal Board on Geographic Names has voted on replacement names for more than 600 places that included the slur “squaw.” The department also issued a full map of places where names were replaced." To read more, click here.

--Snowbrains is reporting that, "on August 9, 2022, two individuals pleaded guilty to Reckless Conduct Charges in the 2nd Circuit Court–District Division–Littleton Courthouse. Jason Feierstin, 22, of Lowell, MA, and Dylan Stahley, 25, of Windsor, NH, both entered guilty pleas in exchange for each receiving a violation-level Reckless Conduct conviction and a $200 fine, plus a $48 penalty assessment. The criminal charges resulted from a rescue that occurred on June 11, 2022. The rescue involved Conservation Officers from the New Hampshire Fish and Game Department’s Law Enforcement Division as well as volunteers from the Pemigewasset Valley Search and Rescue Team and New England K9 Drone Unit." To read more, click here.

--The Boardman-Tasker Mountain Literature finalists have been announced

Thursday, September 8, 2022

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 9/8/22


--We usually don't report much on accidents that don't involve mountain travel, but we thought this one would be important to highlight as it's a risk we all take every time we're in a tent. A man was killed by a falling tree in his tent in Olympic National Forest last week. To read more, click here.

--There was a rockfall event in Squamish on Tuesday. From the Squamish Access Society: "Rockfall went all the way to the road - Mamquam-and will be closed from Shlanay trail to the dyke exit - RCMP on site - will continue to be closed for another hour or so (2pm). Climbers should avoid climbing at New Delhi as rocks took out trail most likely but also dangerous overhead hazards and trees on approach." To read more, follow Squamish Access Society on Facebook.

--Gripped is reporting that, "Yak Peak is a well-known granite dome with an unmistakable west-facing slab northwest of the Coquihalla Pass on Highway 5. There are a few classic climbs up to 17 pitches, including Yak Check 5.9, Yak Crack 5.9, Reality Check 5.10+ and CardiYak Rhythm 5.11b. According to Chris Kucey, 'This peak has seen three or four big rockfalls on a different aspects within the last two months.' The latest was a rockfall that affected pitches six and seven." To read more, click here.


--From Yosemite National Park: "In 2023, Yosemite National Park will transition from the Wilderness Climbing Permit Pilot Program (in place in 2021 and 2022) to a long-term solution to address wilderness stewardship through management of overnight climbing on Yosemite’s big walls and other rock formations." To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--There's currently a movement to seed clouds above Red Rock Canyon near Las Vegas. The idea is to bring in more rain on the drought-stricken landscape. To read more, click here.

Colorado and Utah:

Cody Bradford

----It is with a heavy heart that we have to report the passing of the guide and climbing influencer, Cody Bradford. Cody was well-known in both the guiding and the social media worlds as a thoughtful climbing educator who loved sharing his knowledge with the world. To read more, click here.

--CBS News is reporting that, "A climber died on Saturday after falling about 900 feet from below the summit of Colorado's Capitol Peak, which is among the nation's tallest mountains and considered one of the state's most difficult to scale, according to the Pitkin County Sheriff's Office." To read more, click here

--The Sacramento Bee is reporting that, "The body of a climber was found on a “very steep, rocky slope” after he texted a friend to pick him up, Utah officials said. Thomas James Rawe, 45, was on his way down from climbing at American Fork Canyon when he texted a friend to pick him up in 45 minutes at a “Forest Service fee booth near the mouth” of the canyon on Saturday, Sept. 3, according to a news release from the Utah County Sheriff’s Office." To read more, click here.

--SnowBrains is reporting that, "the Utah Department of Transportation (UDOT) has been working on a solution to the traffic that plagues Little Cottonwood Canyon for some time now. On August 31, they officially announced they prefer a gondola as the top choice to achieve that goal, saying the gondola meets the 'need and provides the highest travel reliability for the public.' The recommendation came after a thoughtful environmental impact study (EIS) that considered both the gondola and an enhanced bus system." This eight mile gondola will be the world's longest. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--Ubiquitous cell service in the mountains is coming, thanks to Elon Musk. From Explorer's Web: "The billionaire founder of SpaceX announced a new partnership with T-Mobile this week that will leverage the power of his Starlink satellites. Together, the two companies will offer a cell service plan that seeks to reach the most remote corners of the United States." To read more, click here.

--Outside is reporting that, "Yellowstone National Park has taken a step to distance itself from its painful past. On Thursday, the National Park Service officially changed the name of a 10,551-foot peak east of Yellowstone Lake to First Peoples Mountain, after research showed that the man it was previously named for participated in atrocities against Native Americans. The name change was confirmed following a unanimous 15–0 vote by the U.S. Board on Geographic Names." To read more, click here.

--Gear Junkie is reporting that, "Climbing’s rapid growth means sport climbing anchors can get worn down more quickly. A joint effort by Petzl and climbing groups aim to improve safety — for all. Petzl will work with two climbing nonprofits this fall to address aging hardware and battered trails at climbing crags in Tennessee." To read more, click here.

Thursday, September 1, 2022

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 9/1/2022


--CNN is reporting that, "a Canadian climber fell to his death in Mount Rainier National Park in Washington state earlier this week, officials said Thursday. Chun Hui Zhang, 52, died Monday while he was descending the Disappointment Cleaver route on Mount Rainier, park officials said in a news release." To read more, click here.

--KOIN 6 is reporting that, "The eyebrow-raising name of Swastika Mountain, located outside Cottage Grove in Lane County, will soon be changed. The Oregon Geographic Names Board confirmed Wednesday that the mountain’s name, which refers to a symbol the German Nazi Party used to identify itself or the Southeast Asian symbol of good luck or spirituality, will be changed." To read more, click here.

--The wildly popular Banana Peel (II, 5.7) in Squamish is falling apart. There are currently at least two precariously stacked blocks. To read about it, click here.


--The Los Angeles Times is reporting that, "a well-known professional rock climber from California has been arrested after being accused of sexual assault in Yosemite National Park, according to authorities. Charles Barrett, 38, was charged with two counts of aggravated sexual abuse and one count of abusive sexual contact, according to a three-count indictment released Tuesday by the U.S. attorney’s office for the Eastern District of California. Barrett was arrested Monday at the Mono County Courthouse in Bridgeport, Calif. and is in custody at the Fresno County Jail, said Lauren Horwood, public information officer for the U.S. attorney’s office. A detention hearing is scheduled for Friday." Barrett is also a well-known guidebook author.  His responsible for the books Bishop Bouldering, Tuolumne Meadows Bouldering, and Mammoth bouldering. To read more, click here.

Colorado and Utah:

--NBC News is reporting that, "the body of a hiker who vanished during a flash flood in Utah’s Zion National Park last week was found Monday, officials said Tuesday. Jetal Agnihotri, 29, was found in the Virgin River near Court of the Patriarchs, a group of sandstone cliffs in a southeast section of the park, the National Park Service said in a news release." To read more, click here.

--Climbing is reporting that, "on Wednesday, August 24, Utah’s Attorney General Sean Reyes—backed by a powerful coalition of the state’s conservative powerbrokers—sued the Biden Administration over its restoration of Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monuments. Utah argues that the size of the monuments, which together amount to some 3.2 million acres, contradicts the Antiquities Act of 1906 and constitutes “abusive federal overreach.” The attorney general also says that the protections afforded by monument status are, paradoxically, having a negative effect on both the environment and tribal access to important cultural sites, and that only by repealing the monument status and coming to a “congressional solution” can the land be properly protected." To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--News Channel 3 is reporting that, "New Hampshire Fish and Game officials said a man from Plymouth suffered serious injuries when he fell from the Echo Crags in Franconia Monday night." To read more, click here.

--Unofficial Networks has a great article on why the National Ski Patrol is in disarray. To read the piece, click here.

--Outside is reporting that, "Vail Resorts dropped opening dates on Tuesday at all of its North American ski areas, plus a little surprise: Daily lift ticket sales will be capped for the 2022-23 season in an effort to cut down on crowding on the mountains. The move comes a year after the international ski giant received an avalanche of criticism for overcrowding, a shortage of employees, and delays around terrain opening at some of its resorts." To read more, click here.

--This drone video from Mt. Everest is insanely good: