Get to Know Your Guide: An interview with Kurt Hicks

Every week, we take the reader into the interesting and ever-changing life of an American Alpine Institute guide. Every AAI guide is very experienced in alpine and rock climbing, and all have received professional training in advanced guiding techniques and rescue. Collectively they have one of the highest levels of wilderness first aid, avalanche, and Leave No Trace training among the world's international guide services. For profiles on all AAI guides, please click here.

This week, we interview Kurt Hicks.

Age: 25
Hometown: Bellingham, Washington
Recent trips and expeditions with AAI: Ice climbing in California, Denali Preparation courses, Avalanche Level 1, Red Rocks, and alpine climbing at Snoqualmie Pass alpine

A Guide's Life
How were you introduced to mountaineering?
I guess this is where I have to acknowledge that I began my climbing career in a climbing gym, when I was in the third grade! After that, I climbed my first mountain (Mt. Thielsen, in the Oregon Cascades) at age 11 with my dad, brother, and some family friends. I got increasingly serious about my climbing while an undergrad in college. Eventually, it overtook all my other outdoor activities in terms of my commitment level to it and the enjoyment I get out of climbing.

How do you stay in shape and what are your favorite training activities?
I ran cross-country and track from elementary school through college. Because of this, heading out for a trail run (the muddier, the better) always seems to help get me into reasonably good cardio shape, even if it is only a psychological increase in fitness. In terms of climbing shape, I rotate with the seasons – splitter cracks in the summer, alpine rock routes in the fall, ice and mixed climbs and some skiing in the winter, and a mix of those in the spring.

Who is the most inspiring person in your climbing life?
I get a lot of inspiration from the climbers who are on the courses and guided climbs I lead at AAI. Seeing their motivation to learn about climbing makes me want to be a better instructor and climber, so that I can help them develop more fully. Seeing them psyched makes me psyched!

What are your other interests besides climbing?
I’m supposed to have interests outside of climbing (he laughs)? I prefer to spend my leisure time with family and friends doing a variety of things; there’s nothing quite like an late-afternoon barbeque, a game of Frisbee golf, a couple dark beers, and a comedy movie with friends. Come to think of it, I actually enjoy being ‘domestic’ once in a while…washing dishes, doing laundry, and working on home improvement projects, but I guess that probably comes from my active personality and lifestyle.

Where is your favorite place to travel?
I’ve always been enamored by the Canadian Rockies. I just love to spend time there in the winter, climbing ice and watching the wildlife. Watching sunrise from a few pitches up is pretty amazing. I’ll be traveling to Europe for the first time this fall, so I’m excited to finally see and climb in the French Alps.

On the Technical Side
Describe your climbing style.
In a word, I’d characterize my style as “conservative.” As the saying goes, “there are old climbers and there are bold climbers, but there are no old, bold climbers.” Sure, some people get away with it, but I tend to gravitate towards routes that can be reasonably well protected, especially if I am climbing near my limit. In the alpine, I like going as light as possible, because it allows me to move faster, climb harder, stress my knees and back less, and (usually) be able to sleep in a bed at the end of the day.

What has been your most technically difficult climb?
A recent climb that comes to mind is “Mixed Master,” a classic route on the Icefields Parkway in the Canadian Rockies. The route climbs a couple moderate ice pitches (up to WI4) before starting a mixed pitch of 5.8 rock (in crampons) that eases off into a cool snow arête. Above that, another really fun mixed pitch (m4) leads to a narrow WI5 ice runnel that finishes the route nearly 300m above the highway. With excellent climbing and a ten-minute approach, it’s a hard climb to beat.

What is your biggest strength as a climber? Biggest weakness?
I think that my “off the couch” fitness level is a great asset. That, combined with the mental strength that I developed from years of running, has enabled me to go out climbing on a moment’s notice, even if I don’t feel particularly fit, and still move fast and climb reasonably well. My biggest weakness is probably my tendency to only head out on a climb when there is a reasonably good weather forecast.

A Guide on Guiding
Is there anything you know now that you'd wish you'd known when you were just beginning to climb?
I wish I would have known how consuming my climbing would become. Also, although I’ve gotten a lot better at it over the years, learning how to be more frugal with my money at an early age would have been very beneficial; it really helps when trying to fund a road trip or an expedition.

When you guide, what piece of advice do you find you give most often to climbers?
Know why you’re doing what you’re doing.

What qualities do you think are most important in a guide?
Patience, flexibility, effective communication, and a constantly analytical mindset.

Name a few guide"turn-ons" (for example, what makes a good climber on one of your courses?).
I enjoy working with climbers who are internally motivated, and are able to stay in good spirits when faced with the challenges of an alpine environment (bad weather, heavy packs, long approaches, etc). A solid repertoire of general backcountry living skills is always appreciated.

Describe a memorable event that has occurred while guiding for AAI.
Just a couple weeks ago, while guiding at Snoqualmie Pass, I had to employ a shovel during a particularly strenuous soft-snow approach! It was pretty hilarious digging a head-high trench up to the base a rock climb.

What are your must-haves (e.g. favorite foods, equipment)?
As a self-described ‘gear head,’ I could create a laundry list of my must-haves for this question! However, I think it’s very important to have a system that works for you. All too often, people get caught up in brand names or new products, but often times those products are not the best choices for them or their activities. Find something that works well, is light and somewhat durable (since those two criteria are generally mutually exclusive), and fits your climbing style and body type. For me, some of those items include Dermatone sunscreen, a Buff, a Jetboil, and my mp3 player.

Describe your achievement of which you are the most proud.
I’m really proud of the direction I chose for my life. I love going to work every day…not everyone can say that.

Any closing comments on what you're looking forward to in the next year?
Spring is coming…see you in the mountains!

Good News on Denali!

All reports coming out of Alaska this late winter and early spring say that for the first time in a few years, the mountains in the Alaska Range have received a healthy blanket of snow which will insulate and protect the glaciers. As a result, AAI is announcing the addition of one more Denali Expedition departure for the 2008 season. The dates for this new expedition will be June 18-July 8. Please visit our program page (http://aai.cc/ProgramDetail/denali) for more details.

An AAI team on the summit of Denali, 2007.

Typically, the Denali season starts to wrap up in early July. The main reason for this mid-summer closure is due to conditions on the lower Kahiltna Glacier. In most years, teams have to quit climbing during one of the best weather and conditions windows on Denali to ensure that they can readily navigate the lower glacier and get picked up by a glacier plane for the flight home. Over the last few years, our mid-June trip has reached the summit consistently. Because of the forecasted good conditions this year, we are very excited to offer one more departure during this normally great weather window.

We currently have four climbers enrolled on the expedition, and we can take a total of six.

AAI climber Will Baumann at the top
of the fixed lines at 16,200' on Denali

Things are rolling right along here in preparation for the Alaska season, and the buzz grows with each passing day. Climbers are still signing up for expeditions, but we're beginning to move from the registration and consultation process into the more logistical efforts of ordering food, packing gear, making travel plans, and ensuring that everything is in place before our first trip gets underway. Our first Alaska Range trip will hit the glacier on April 24th, and our first Denali trip arrives on the ice May 4th. Please contact us soon if you would like to join us in Alaska this season. It's going to be a great year up there.

Cheers and happy climbing!

Coley Gentzel
AAI Alaska Program Coordinator and Guide

More Protests over Chinese Treatment of Tibet

China recently made what many observers have called a very heavy handed response to anti-Chinese rioting in Tibet's capital Lhasa, bringing many deaths, many injuries, 600 arrests, and a virtual travel and news blackout. Combined with the Chinese plan to carry the Olympic torch across Tibet (including to the summit of Mt. Everest), the flood of Chinese troops into Tibet has spurred the hundreds of "pro-Tibet" and "free-Tibet" groups around the world to plan protests in conjunction with the Olympic torch events.

Tibetan activists in a protest in Dharamsala, India, on Tuesday timed to coincide with the Olympic torch relay event. Manan Vatsyayana/Agence France-Presse - Getty Images

Sponsors of the round the world torch bearing (Coca-Cola, Chinese pc maker Lenovo, and Samsung Electronics) are now facing a potential public relations nightmare.

Tibetans were back on the road on Tuesday, marching in protest from Dharamsala, in northern India, toward Lhasa in Tibet, despite an order by India to halt. Manan Vatsyayana/Agence France-Presse - Getty Images

For a summary of the issues and events, see Heather Timmon's article in today's New York Times article here. For observations on the closure of the Tibetan border, see Jake Hooker's article in the NYT from March 26th here. Heather's earlier article about a hundred Tibetan exiles on a six-month protest march to their homeland may also be of interest.

REEL ROCK Film Tour 2008: Short Film Competition

Ready to be famous? The 2008 Reel Rock Film Tour is now accepting submissions for short films (less than three minutes) that will be shown on their tour this fall. Open categories include action/drama and humor/spoof, and more information is available on the Reel Rock Film Tour website. For a good laugh, check out the entry "Sew it up" or the three-minute animated drama "Climber." All entries are due July 15, so grab your camera and get to work!

Get to Know Your Guide: An interview with Jason Martin

Every week, we take the reader into the interesting and ever-changing life of an American Alpine Institute guide. Every AAI guide is very experienced in alpine and rock climbing, and all have received professional training in advanced guiding techniques and rescue. Collectively they have one of the highest levels of wilderness first aid, avalanche, and Leave No Trace training among the world's international guide services. For profiles on all AAI guides, please click here.

This week, we interview Jason Martin.

Age: 35
Hometown: Las Vegas, Nevada and Bellingham, Washington
Recent trips and expeditions with AAI: Red Rock, Sierra, Cascades (past trips: Denali, Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia

A Guide's Life
How were you introduced to mountaineering?
I started dabbling with both mountaineering and rock climbing at about 19. I was involved in the mountaineering club in college. A lot of my basic skills came from those days climbing with friends I still climb with.

How do you stay in shape and what are your favorite training activities?
Up until recently, I guided year round. There wasn’t a need for any type of additional training. When I do train, I like to hike, run uphill on the treadmill, and go to the rock gym.

Who is the most inspiring person in your climbing life?
The author and climber Greg Child has always been an inspiration to me. His writing style is tight, engaging, and sometimes even comic. His accomplishments in the mountains are too vast to contemplate.

What are your other interests besides climbing?
I am a playwright, screenwriter, film critic, and outdoor adventure writer. I spend a large amount of my free time writing or thinking about writing. I love to talk about dramatic structure in film and theatre and discussing the merits of one script over another.

My plays have been produced throughout the United States and Europe. Seven of my scripts have been published in anthologies. One of my screenplays was optioned – though never produced – in 2003. I’ve written two climbing guidebooks, and my writing has been published in numerous magazines and newspapers. I used to think that my interest in theatre and film was the polar opposite of my interest in climbing and guiding, but then I had an epiphany. I realized that my interests in climbing and my interest in story structure intersect. Climbing actually has a clearly delineated dramatic structure. If you recall your high school English classes, you might remember a chart that looks like this:

You might remember that exposition is what provides the background information on the main character and the world that he lives in. When the character becomes enmeshed in the story and has to deal with obstacles the action begins to rise. The climax is the moment of greatest tension and emotion. And the remainder of the chart deals with story resolution.

In climbing, getting prepared for something big or difficult is like exposition. Getting on the mountain or route is the same as rising action. Dealling with the crux of the climb is like the climax. And getting back to the car safely is analgous to the falling action and resolution.

Of course – just like in the movies – every now and then a climber thinks that the story is over. He thinks he’s going to get back to the car safely and there won’t be any more challenges. And every now and then there is a surprise. In the movies we find out the monster is not dead. In real life a storm moves in on the descent or some other obstacle stands in the way.

When I realized this I finally understood that my interests are the same. Going on a climbing trip takes us away from our normal every day lives and puts us somewhere special. The same thing happens with the best books, movies and theatrical productions.

Where is your favorite place to travel?
I’ve worked in Bolivia for AAI on a number of occasions and always love going back there. I’d also like to travel to the French and Swiss Alps on a climbing vacation. I’d also like to bring one of my plays to the International Fringe Festival in Edinburgh, Scotland

On the Technical Side
Describe your climbing style.
My style of climbing depends heavily on physical strength. I’m heavier and less flexible than many of my peers, so I focus on the one thing that I know will carry me through…brute strength.

What has been your most technically difficult climb?
I soloed the North Face of Chair Peak in the winter about five years ago. I encountered some mixed sections up to 5.4 and some Water Ice 2. The route isn’t super technical, but it was scary because I was alone. I knew that any type of mistake would be the end. I’ve cut down significantly on my soloing since that adventure. Now, it’s enough to know that I did it once a long time ago. I don’t need to do it again.

What is your biggest strength as a climber? Biggest weakness?
My biggest strength is my persistence. I don’t like to give up on a climb. My biggest weakness is my persistence. Sometimes you should give up and move onto the next route.

A Guide on Guiding
Is there anything you know now that you'd wish you'd known when you were just beginning to climb?
I wish I knew what I was doing back then. I learned a number of bad habits from friends early in my climbing career.

When you guide, what piece of advice do you find you give most often to climbers?
On rock, I tell people to look at their feet. Often people will look at their foot for a moment and then look away just as it is about to touch the rock. Make sure you look at your foot until it is exactly where you want it.

On glaciers, I often find that when people step over the rope to get it onto the downhill side, they stop. This really slows things down, especially if every person on the rope team stops to step over the rope. I find that I repeatedly have to tell people not to stop as they step over the rope.

What qualities do you think are most important in a guide?
1) Patience: It’s common for guides to have to repeat themselves. It’s common for guides to have to move more slowly than they would if they were climbing with other guides. And it’s common for a guide to have to put in a little extra time with some climbers who aren’t as fit or experienced as others.

2) An ability to re-climb the same route over and over again, but still find it enjoyable. This is incredibly important for individuals who want to last in this profession.

3) An overdeveloped sense of responsibility: When you’re guiding, people are putting their lives in your hands. It is imperative that you don’t take that responsibility lightly. There is no room for arrogance in this profession. Guides need to focus on their climbers, not on their need to be recognized as cool or as a guide.

Name a few guide"turn-ons" (for example, what makes a good climber on one of your courses?).
It’s great when people are focused and listen carefully to instructions. It’s great when people have their camping and backpacking systems dialed. And it’s great when people come with a positive attitude and are ready to learn.

Describe a memorable event that has occurred while guiding for AAI.
At the top of a route called “Geronimo” in Red Rock Canyon, I had a climber propose to his girlfriend. It was a very cool thing to be involved with. Please click here to read the full story.

What are your must-haves (e.g. favorite foods, equipment)?
I always bring a book on multi-day trips. If I’m halfway through it, I’ll cut it in half to save weight. But you will never find me in the field without reading material.
I’m a huge fan of trekking poles, especially when I carry a large pack. I strongly believe that they protect your knees and help you keep your balance when you’re carrying a lot.
The Jetboil stove is extremely quick and useful.
I carry a one-man tent. It’s light. It’s warm. And it preserves a bit of time in the day for me to be alone with my thoughts, my book and my journal.
I took the back seats out of my Astrovan so that I could use it for road trips. Having a vehicle that you can sleep in is a nearly essential requirement for a guide. It is not uncommon for us to live out of our cars for short periods of time while working away from our home base.

Describe your achievement of which you are the most proud.
My greatest production, my most fierce summit, and the source of my greatest pride and joy is my daughter, Holly.

Any closing comments on what you're looking forward to in the next year?
My wife is pregnant again! We are anxiously looking forward to the adventure of a second child.

Everest Closure Update

The Government of Nepal has capitulated to Chinese pressure to close Mt. Everest to summit climbs from May 1-10, 2008. The Chinese are hosting the 2008 Olympic Games in Beijing, and they are hoping to garner some major exposure in the international press by carrying the Olympic torch to the summit of Everest. The Chinese government has already announced that the north side of Everest will be closed as well, “in order to provide safety” for the torchbearers headed for the 29,035' summit.

In reality, the government knows there is deep resentment in many parts of the world in addition to Tibet, over the Chinese seizure of that country, and the Chinese fear protests on the mountain and perhaps on the summit which would overshadow the glamour of getting the torch up there.

Besides political and free speech impacts, the closure will have serious repercussions for expeditions trying to climb Everest this pre-monsoon season. The historical, best weather-window is May 15-25, so heading out of base camp on May 10 will be far from an ideal schedule. It will be helpful if the Nepalese allow acclimatization and movement on the mountain for camp installation up until May 1, but it remains to be seen if that will be allowed.

Theoretically, the Nepalese stand to lose millions of dollars in canceled expedition income if they can’t work out some accommodation, but the reality is the power of the purse, and in this case, the government holds all the expedition fees and is unlikely to refund them. It will be simple for them to say, "you can work around this short closure, so there are no refunds." Cancellations would have a major impact on the annual incomes of the people of the Khumbu.

This NASA photo shows the Everest region from space with an overlay of the South Col route and North Col/North Ridge route.

Another big concern is crowding on the route. If everyone starts out on the same date, the movement will create some difficult circumstance on the route and in the smaller camps. The American Alpine Institute /Adventure Consultants 2008 Everest Expedition will of course be affected by this time constraint. AC Expedition Director Guy Cotter remains in touch with Nepalese officials and is in Nepal now attempting to negotiate some accommodation for the spring expeditions. (If you are interested in learning more about the AAI/AC Everest Expedition, you can follow the team dispatches beginning at the end of April; please follow this link.)

Additionally, many fear for the well being of the Chinese climbers, driven as they will be for success for the motherland. The Chinese expedition history in the Himalaya is not a pretty one, with a run of large expeditions and significant numbers of deaths. There has always been a pressure-to-succeed-problem for many climbers, especially those from less developed countries or individuals with limited financial resources - who feel “this is my only shot at the top and the fame that can be mine if I get there.” Many a bad decision has been made on the mountain because of this internal pressure.

In Tengboche on the approach to Everest (center) with a shoulder of Ama Dablam on the right

Couple such a state of mind with overt pressure and high expectations for success from the sponsoring government (“The eyes of the world will be watching you.”), and you have a recipe for disaster. The Chinese team reportedly includes over 100 climbers, in hopes that larger numbers will increase their chances to summit. We all hope that they don’t get into trouble, and we wish safety and success for the individual climbers. It may to hard to tell exactly what is going on with the Chinese expedition once it begins because the government is so good at and comfortable with secrecy, and they will understandably want the world’s attention focused on the romance of the torch and the symbolism of the trip, not on any problems that arise or the practical problems (and occasional suffering) that occur on some large Everest expeditions. It is our hope that all Everest expeditions, including the Chinese torch mission, will continue to focus on safety and that they don't disregard or minimize the extremely serious issues of acclimatization and hazardous weather conditions.

Stand by. In the meantime, here’s a link to a March 15 New York Times article on the subject.

Winter Ascent of Whitney

AAI Guide Jeremy Ellison has reported that he and George Watkins of Waddell, Arizona, summited Mt. Whitney on March 5th. Below are Jeremy's trip report and photos from the trip.

Climbers: George Watkins of Waddell, AZ, Spencer Arnold of Mission Viejo, CA, John Willard of Raleigh, NC, and Grant Willard of Los Altos, CA

On the first day, the group found the Whitney Portal road plowed, yet closed several miles from the Portal thanks to Paramount Pictures as they were filming a movie on the road. Under heavy winter packs, they arrived at Lower Boy Scout Lake about an hour after dark. A big day to be sure!

Film crews from Paramount Pictures were hard at work.

On day two, the team awoke to clear skies and warm temperatures, and they made their way to camp just below Iceberg Lake. The North Fork of Lone Pine creek was firm snow, and no snowshoes were needed all the way to the lake. The afternoon brought strong, cold winds that lasted into the evening. The team retreated early to the tents as the sun fell over the high summits of Keeler Needle and Mt. Whitney. The temperature dropped off dramatically with the falling sun.

The Whitney team prepares for the summit, enjoying sun.

At 6:00am on summit morning, the team was greeted by more strong winds. Of course, no one was in a hurry to leave the warm tents. They departed camp with the warmth of the first morning light at around 7:00am. Strong winds prevailed throughout the morning, slowed progress, and kept conversation light. They soldiered on up the Mountaineer's Couloir where the 35-degree slope of the couloir and strong winds funneling down on their faces proved challenging. The increasing altitude also began to take it's toll.

George Watkins getting close to the summit.

Finally, George and guide Jeremy Ellison made a hasty move for the top up the final fourth class slabs and 50-degree snow in crampons, arriving at the 14,494-foot summit at about 11:30am. Strong winds and cold appendages made the summit a brief experience, but clear skies allowed for an inspiring view across the Eastern Sierra range. It was a great winter climbing success on the highest peak in the lower 48 states.

Get to Know Your Guide: An interview with Erik Johnson

Every week, we take the reader into the inspiring and ever-changing life of an American Alpine Institute guide. Every AAI guide is very experienced in alpine and rock climbing, and all have received professional training in advanced guiding techniques and rescue. Collectively they have one of the highest levels of wilderness first aid, avalanche, and Leave No Trace training among the world's international guide services. For profiles on all AAI guides, please click here.

This week, we interview Erik Johnson.

Age: 29
Hometown: Spokane, WA
Recent trips and expeditions with AAI: Denali (West Buttress) and Alaska Range Mountaineering

A Guide's Life
How were you introduced to mountaineering?
I went on a weeklong backpacking trip in the Pasayten Wilderness when I was 14, and at age 16 I was hooked after taking the Spokane Mountaineers climbing school.

How do you stay in shape and what are your favorite training activities?
I’ve always found that climbing is the best way to stay in shape for climbing; not just for your legs, arms and lungs, but also mentally and judgmentally. The more time you spend outside in the mountains, the more tuned your judgment and overall awareness becomes.

Who is the most inspiring person in your climbing life?
I can’t single anyone out; it’s more of a cobbling together of some great aspects of some great people. A few people I admire are Shackleton, Lowe (Alex and Jeff), Hillary, and Croft.

What are your other interests besides climbing?
I spend a lot of time and I spend a lot of money taking photos. I also ski as much as I can and fix old boats as well.

Where is your favorite place to travel?
China has been one of my favorites, and I hope to get back there soon. I recently returned from Patagonia and would definitely like to return. Other favorite spots include Alaska, Red Rock, the Sierra Nevada, Moab, Icefields Parkway, Squamish, Index, Wind Rivers, Tetons, Bugaboos, North Cascades, and Needles. The list only grows longer for every new place I go to!

On the Technical Side
Describe your climbing style.
Slow and steady with lots of gear.

What has been your most technically difficult climb?
The Harvard Route on Mt Huntington in Alaska.

What is your biggest strength as a climber? Biggest weakness?
I would say that my strength is the ability to get on the right pace and go for a long time. Biggest weakness? My ice climbing skills have eroded over the past few years, as I have been spending my winters in the Southern Hemisphere – austral summer down there – not much ice.

A Guide on Guiding
Is there anything you know now that you'd wish you'd known when you were just beginning to climb?
I suppose I would have focused more on one thing or the other – school or climbing. Trying to do both can be difficult, and much of the time you don’t end up having time for either.

When you guide, what piece of advice do you find you give most often to climbers?
Awareness. Trying to concentrate on your surrounding environment, hazards, conditions, and weather. The more you work on this, the less you have to think about it; and your awareness becomes second nature and peripheral.

What qualities do you think are most important in a guide?
Teaching skills -- even on guided trips and expeditions (as opposed to courses where the focus is already on teaching) there is a good deal of instruction. The more effectively you teach, the better the climb goes.

Name a few guide"turn-ons" (for example, what makes a good climber on one of your courses?).
I think that flexibility and a commitment to keeping oneself healthy, happy, and hydrated are important qualities for a climber.

Describe a memorable even that has occurred while guiding for AAI.
My first year guiding, we had five straight days of rain on the Easton Glacier of Mt Baker on a six-day mountaineering course. At the 12am start on the glacier, it was still raining. When dawn broke and our rope teams climbed out above the marine layer clouds, we crossed into one of the most beautiful and memorable summits of my life; it was like climbing on a sea of clouds.

What are your must-haves (e.g. favorite foods, equipment)?
I’ve been impressed with the Petzl Adjama harness on a recent trip. Also, good coffee and a small point and shoot camera are indispensable.

Describe your achievement of which you are the most proud.
I have used my background in geology and my guiding experience to go to the Antarctic. I worked there as a field guide, working with science groups from around the world on exciting and important geological and climate related projects.

Any closing comments on what you're looking forward to in the next year?
Spring skiing and warm granite are just around the corner!