Wolves Thrive Despite Setbacks

AAI just received the following email from Conservation Northwest:

We're still reeling from the sad poaching of one or more members of the Lookout Pack, Washington's only known family of wolves. But as we wait to learn the outcome of the federal investigation, we are inspired by two things. Reacting to the news, people have been very supportive of wolf recovery in Washington. Most everyone, including the Washington Cattlemen's Association, our partner in the Washington Wolf Working Group, recognizes that killing an endangered animal is wrong.

In other good news for Washington's wolves, Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife biologist Scott Fitkin recently saw two collared wolves and one of last year's pups. Not only did they all look healthy, said Fitkin, the alpha female looked to be very pregnant!

A big thank you to the 400 Conservation Northwest supporters who have sent a note to legislators expressing your concern over this poaching case and asking for the funding needed to ensure wolf recovery in Washington. Your voice is being heard and will make a big difference in the months ahead.

Climbing Ethics: Spray

Spray is a derogatory term for a monologue wherein an individual describes his or her climbing in an arrogant, narcissistic and self-promoting manner. Those who engage in spray are usually trying to elevate themselves and their egos above whomever they are talking to. In other words, spray isn't just bragging, it's a form of put-down. The subtext to spray is that, "I'm so good, you could never dream to be as good as me..."

In a discussion of spray on rockclimbing.com, a poster named Tradguy provided a great definition and example of spray:

I guess I've always thought of spray as being given without having been asked for. Like if someone asked you what you climbed today, it would be expected that you name routes and grades and such. However, if you just walk up to someone and start talking smack, or throw out unneeded comparisons or references to other climbs or people, then it becomes spray. For example, I'm in Joshua Tree with a couple friends, one of whom is just starting to lead up a 5.8. Some random guy wanders up and starts chatting. Allow me to paraphrase:

GUY: "So you guys are going to climb this route, huh?"
US: "Yep. Looks pretty cool."
GUY: "Yeah, it reminds me of this sick 5.14 crack climb I FA'd up in the valley."
US: "Ok. Cool."
GUY: "Yeah, the FA on this route here is by John Long."
US: "Yep, we read that... in the guidebook."
GUY: "Yeah, I was out climbing some stuff at a new area with him last summer. We put up some sick hard lines."

etc, etc, etc.

This guy continued to spray like a firehose until we finished our climb and left. Kind of pathetic, really.

I had a similar encounter a few years ago. We were climbing at The Gallery in Red Rock Canyon when a guy approached a group adjacent to us. The guy was simply looking for a little bit of information, but the sport climber he approached was far more interested in derogatory spray. The guy asked a simple question, "hey man, is this a good route?"

The sport climber looked at him like a he was a piece of dirt and then spoke with an indistinguishable accent, "for you, zis is a good climb." He smiled, "but for me, maybe I do zis climb when I am sick or I am tired. But for you, zis is a good climb."


In three short sentences, this expert sprayer had not only proclaimed his skill, but completely and maliciously put down the person who asked him a question. Years later, I still jokingly imitate the man's spray...which is easy to do when it was so pronounced and vicious.

Indeed, both examples here are pronounced examples of spray. It isn't the pronounced spray that people have to be careful of. Instead, it's the subtle spray. It's the mild bragging that we all do when we finish a climb that we think is cool. A little mild bragging -- or storytelling -- can be fun and engaging for everybody involved. One just has to watch the line and be careful not to step over it into spray. The line should be clear...it's the point where you are no longer telling stories and sharing adventures, it's the point where it becomes a monologue where nobody else gets to share and you start to talk about how good you are and how many celebratory climbers you climb with...

Needless to say, spraying is poor etiquette.

--Jason D. Martin

April and May Climbing Events

--April 30 -- Portland, OR -- Himalaya Fundraiser

--May 2 -- San Marcos, TX -- Texas State University Bouldering Comp

--May 2-3 -- Austin, TX -- Mountain Gear's UClimb

--May 2 -- Troutdale, OR -- The 6th Annual Broughton's Bluff Bushwhack and BBQ

It's that time again! Time to get friends together, old and new, to give back to the crag that gives us so much the year round! As usual we will be bringing in all the tools, swag, beta, and food to keep you and our beloved crag stoked all season long! Come get dirty, get pumped, and get fed!

This year we will be fighting the usual battle to stabilize the hill-side trails and belay platforms, as well as, building/reinforcing trail systems on the back side of the park. We will also have a small group of experts replacing "time-bomb" bolts and anchors with 1/2" stainless steel thanks to our friends at the ASCA.

Bring your rope and appetite because the afternoon is when the day really starts to heat up with four-star vertical action and feasting a-plenty!

--May 2 -- Shawnee, OK -- OBU/Compass Wilderness Bouldering Competition

--May 3 -- Lincoln, RI -- USAC Onsight Competition

--May 3 -- College Park, MD -- UMD Climbing Throwdown

--May 3 -- Post Falls, ID -- Kootenai Klimbers Cleanup

-- May 3 -- Renton, WA -- Passages Northwest 12th Annual Courage Benefit

Passages Northwest 12th Annual Courage Benefit. For 12 years, Passages Northwest has provided wilderness adventures for girls, including rock climbing, backpacking, and sea kayaking, to help girls test their courage and leadership. We serve diverse groups of girls from the Seattle area, with a specific focus on providing access to the natural world to people who have been historically under-represented in outdoor pursuits. We have never turned away a participant for lack of funds.

For more information: wilderness@passagesnw.org or visit http://passagesnw.org

--May 7 -- Seattle, WA -- Bree Loewen: Pickets and Dead Men. Book signing and slide show

--May 7-May 10 -- Carbondale, CO -- Five Point Film Festival

The 5Point Film Festival is on a mission to inspire adventure of all kinds, to connect generations through shared experience and respect, to engage passion with a conscience, and to educate through film.

On the edge between desire and fear, between the known and unknown, is a place deep inside us all where the spirit is transformed — pushed beyond its limit by our deliberate commitment to usher in something new and original. In this soulful place we are catalyzed to learn, expand and engender newfound understanding to inspire others on their journeys. It is this spirit, this thirst for adventure that the 5Point Film Festival celebrates and shares with the community and filmmakers that gather for its annual Festival in Carbondale.

The 5Point Film Festival is on a mission to inspire adventure of all kinds, to connect generations through shared experience and respect, to engage passion with a conscience, and to educate through film.

The 5Point Film Festival inspires us to explore wild places and to return with a renewed vigor to protect our natural world. Proceeds from the 5Point Film Festival, a 501(c)3 non-profit, benefit 1% for the Planet, Carbondale Environmental Board and other non-profits throughout the Roaring Fork Valley and beyond.

--May 9 -- Seattle, WA -- Skip Yowell - Founder of Jansport

--May 9 -- Smith Rock, OR -- Smith Rock Spring Thing

--May 9 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Spring Mountain Clean-up
Join new friends in the cool mountain breezes among the shade of trees to help remove litter from the mountain environment and recreation sites that can be found in the Mt. Charleston area. A special group of outdoor enthusiasts (hikers, mountain bikers, and climbers) is being organized to clean the pullouts along the Deer Creek Highway (the road between Kyle and Lee canyons). This may involve off trail walking over some possibly steeper, more uneven terrain that will require sure footed and fit individuals.

Please volunteer today! This is a great opportunity to help preserve the natural beauty of the Spring Mountains. Just a little bit of work and a whole lot of fun! We depend on the mountain and the mountain depends on you.

Spring Cleaning
Saturday, May 9
9:30am - 10:00am .........Volunteer Check-in
10:00am - 1:00pm..........Volunteer Litter Pickup
1:00pm - 3:00pm...........BBQ with Live Entertainment and Raffle Prizes
Volunteer Today!
Contact: Ron Rudy
kiwanoron@hotmail.com • 702.238.4108

--May 9 -- Ann Arobr, MI -- Bouldering Competition

--May 10 -- Seattle, WA -- Festival of Trees

--May 15-16 -- New River Gorge, WVNew River Rendezvous

This 3-day climbing festival is a celebration of climbing at the New River Gorge. The weekend is full of climbing, food, friends and fun. NRMG holds instructional clinics taught by pro-climbers like Lynn Hill, Brittany Griffith and many more. Pre-registration is required to attend the event and clinics.

--May 16 -- Montreal, QC -- 2009 Canadian Bouldering Championships

--May 16-17 -- Baraboo, WI -- Mountain Gear's UClimb

--May 16 -- Portland, OR -- Madrone Wall Restoration Event and Clean Up

--May 16 -- Red Rocks, CO -- Red Rocks Canyon Open Space Clean-Up

--May 22-26 -- Kalymnos, Greece -- International Kalymnos Climbing Festival

--May 30-31 -- Fayetteville, WV -- Mountain Gear's UClimb

Move to Temporary Visitor Center at Red Rock Canyon Slated for May 8th

AAI just received the following email from the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area:

In preparation for the move into the new visitor center currently under construction at Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, the BLM will be moving to a temporary visitor center beginning May 8. The new visitor arrival building is expected to open in late June.


The temporary visitor center will feature a staffed information desk, exhibits including microscopes, dioramas, pictographs and taxidermy animals as well as a gift shop. Exhibits will be moved from the current visitor center beginning May 1.


The temporary visitor center will be located in a portable trailer in the lower parking lot of the current visitor center. More than 100 parking spaces will remain available at the site and restrooms will remain open.


When the visitor arrival building opens in late June, the temporary visitor center will be removed and the exhibits, information desk and gift shop will move to the 8,900 square foot indoor portion of the visitor arrival center. The attached amphitheater will also open at that time.


Construction will continue on the exterior displays; the former visitor center will be converted into administrative offices; and the fee booth area/contact station will be remodeled. By mid- November, construction is expected to be completed.


When the current visitor center opened in 1982, about 20,000 people visited Red Rock. Now more than a million people a year visit the area. To address this issue, the Secretary of the Interior approved funding under the Southern Nevada Public Land Management Act to build a new visitor center to provide enhanced visitor services to the increasing number of people who visit the National Conservation Area each year.


The facility is designed to encourage stewardship for public land by providing an outdoor experience that instills a sense of personal responsibility. Both the visitor center and the administration building components of the project will undergo the U.S. Green Building Council’s Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design certification process.


# # #

The BLM manages more land –258 million acres –than any other Federal agency. This land, known as the National System of Public Lands, is primarily located in 12 Western States, including Alaska. The Bureau, with a budget of about $1 billion, also administers 700 million acres of sub-surface mineral estate throughout the nation. The BLM’s multiple-use mission is to sustain the health and productivity of the public lands for the use and enjoyment of present and future generations. The Bureau accomplishes this by managing such activities as outdoor recreation, livestock grazing, mineral development, and energy production, and by conserving natural, historical, cultural, and other resources on public lands.

AAI Spring Rock Guide Training

A few weeks ago, the American Alpine Institute participated in the annual Red Rock Rendezvous as a key sponsor. Eighteen of our guides attended the event and taught a variety of clinics and classes throughout Red Rock Canyon.

We had a lot of guides around...and we couldn't resist. So we ran a guide training with a focus on multi-pitch rock guiding. Dawn Glanc, an AMGA Certified Rock Guide; Forest McBrian, an IFMGA Aspirant; and I, an AMGA Certified Rock Guide; ran the training...and it was awesome.

Guides guided guides up and down routes like Alage on Parade (III, 5.7+), All that Jazz (II, 5.8), Physical Graffiti (I+, 5.7) and Community Pillar (IV, 5.9). Everybody had a great time and expanded their skills and knowledge.

Following is a photo essay from the training:

AAI Guide Viren Perumal contemplates life in Red Rock
Photo by Ruth Hennings

AAI Guide Ben Traxler guiding Algae on Parade
Photo by Ruth Hennings

AAI Guide and Guide Trainer, Forest McBrian relaxing in Red Rock
Photo by Ruth Hennings

AAI Program Coordinator Ruth Hennings at the base of Algae on Parade
Photo by Ben Traxler

AAI Guide Viren Perumal follows Algae on Parade
Photo by Ruth Hennings

Mike Pond and Kurt Hicks at the Base of All That Jazz
Photo by Jason Martin

Mike Pond belays Kurt Hicks up the last pitch of All That Jazz
Photo by Jason Martin

Somehow Forest always allows himself to get photographed when
he is asleep and looks funny.This is on the flight back
to Bellingham after he's all tuckered out.
Photo by Ruth Hennings

--Jason D. Martin

SR 20 Opens This Evening

From the Washington State Department of Transportation Website:

The SR 20 North Cascades Highway reopens to traffic at 8 p.m. on Friday, April 24, a full week earlier than anticipated. Washington State Department of Transportation maintenance crews began work four weeks ago clearing avalanche chutes and snow from the mountain highway that closed to traffic for the winter on Dec. 11.

“The crews are really pleased that the reopening effort took two weeks less than it did last year and that the highway will be open for the opening weekend of fishing season,” said Don Becker, WSDOT Twisp Maintenance Supervisor.

The 8 p.m. reopening gives the crews the time they need to "sweep" the entire highway for sand, rocks and debris from Silver Star to Diablo, and clean up any more snow sloughed from avalanche chutes.

"It provides the safety margin we need so the first drivers over the passes make their trip successfully," said Becker.

East and west side crews met at Washington Pass Wednesday. Today, crews are widening and cutting safety pull out areas.

“We expected the clearing to take about five weeks if weather and equipment cooperated. We had some setbacks from both, but the key to faster-than-expected reopening was having the two west side snow blowers this week. Coupled with the melt from Monday and Tuesday’s warm temperatures, both crews moved more snow than we ever imagined in a single day,” said Becker.

When the gates swing open tomorrow, drivers should find the road conditions bare and dry or bare and wet across the entire route. The weather forecast calls for temperatures in the mid 40s, clouds and a freezing level around 4,500 feet. There is a possibility of some rain forecast Saturday through Monday.

While the final clearing work is underway, an unusual activity is taking place in Spiral Gulch, east of Washington Pass. Beginning early Friday morning, a Discovery Channel crew is filming a re-creation a truck accident that originally took place on the Alcan Highway for an upcoming episode of “Ice Road Truckers”.

Over the last 10 years, the pass has reopened for traffic between March 10 and May 7. The latest opening was June 14, 1974. The reopening effort has taken from as little as two weeks to as many as eight weeks. The highway never closed during the drought winter of 1976-77. Updates and photos of the annual spring reopening are posted on the WSDOT SR 20 web page, www.wsdot.wa.gov/traffic/passes/northcascades

Mount Redoubt Update

Steaming from the summit lava dome at Redoubt on April 21, 2009

Photographer: Janet Schaefer

Alaska Volcano Observatory

--Update on Mount Redoubt - Climbing Affects

Although the lava dome at the summit of Redoubt has slowed, experts expect activity to continue for weeks maybe even months to come. As climbers, there are a few effects from the eruption to be keeping in mind while climbing in the Alaska Range.

Throughout the eruption a decent amount of ash has deposited in the surrounding peaks, including Denali. This will affect climbers, as they will be forced to dig deeper into the snow pack in order to find clean drinking water.

Avalanche danger will also be increased due to the dark coloration of the ash. The ash will absorb more sunlight than usual causing the snow to be much heavier and prone to slides.

On the bright side, the ash has become a source of income as one local Alaskan entrepreneur attempts to sell bags of ash for $250.00 per pound on e-bay.

Again, we haven’t received any indication of an impact on the AAI Alaska season and we are looking forward to climbing in the Alaska Range as usual.

Denali Park Road to Open to Mile 30 on Friday, April 24

The American Alpine Institute just received the following email from Denali National Park:

Mild spring weather has facilitated the efforts of the National Park Service road crew and other park employees to open the road and park facilities to park visitors. The portion of the Denali Park Road between the Savage River (Mile 15) and the Teklanika River Rest Area at Mile 30 will open for travel by private vehicles at 8:00 a.m. on Friday, April 24, weather permitting. Visitors are encouraged to call ahead for updated road and weather conditions before driving to the park.


Motorists should expect to encounter snow, ice, and mud on some portions of the road, particularly shaded areas. Please be alert for heavy equipment being used in road opening operations and park personnel working on the edges of the road. There are vault toilets at the Savage River parking areas and chemical toilets at the Teklanika River Rest Area for visitor use. Other facilities west of the park headquarters, including campgrounds, are scheduled to open mid-May.


The road will be open to Mile 30 through Tuesday, May 19. Beginning on Wednesday, May 20 the shuttle bus system will provide access beyond the Savage River to as far west as the Toklat River (Mile 53). The first fifteen miles of the park road will continue to be open for travel by park visitors in private vehicles throughout the summer season.


Snow conditions for skiing and mushing have deteriorated, but there is still good snow on north-facing slopes. Visitors have reported numerous wildlife sightings, including lynx, wolves, caribou, moose, Dall sheep, ptarmigan, golden eagles, and snowshoe hare.


Visitor information and backcountry permits are available at the Murie Science and Learning Center (Mile 1.3) from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. daily. The Riley Creek Campground is open for free camping until May 15, but water and sewer services are currently not available. A vault toilet is provided for campers in the open loop, and water can be obtained at the Murie Science and Learning Center.


Denali National Park and Preserve collects an entrance fee year-round. The entrance fee of $10 per person or $20 per vehicle is good for seven days. The majority of the money collected remains in the park to be used for projects to improve visitor services and facilities. Interagency Federal Recreation Passes such as the Annual, Senior, and Access Pass, and the Denali Annual Pass are also valid for entry into the park. Visitors can pay entrance fees and purchase passes at the Murie Science and Learning Center.


Additional information can be obtained by calling the park at (907) 683-2294 from 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily or on the web at www.nps.gov/dena.

Route Profile - Pequeno Alpamayo

Bolivia's Pequeno Alpamayo is one of the prettiest little peaks in the Cordillera Real. The mountain looks a great deal like Peru's Alpamayo, but doesn't have the objective danger or the size of it's namesake. Instead, Pequeno Alpamayo is a striking and accessible peak that can easily be done in a day from the Condoriri basecamp.

There are two major routes on the mountain. The moderate Southwest Ridge and the more difficult Southeast Face. Both lines require four to five pitches of climbing. The Southwest Ridge is primarily forty to fifty degree snow and ice climbing, while the Southeast Face is a bit steeper with terrain that ranges from sixty to seventy degrees.

In 1990, an AAI team established the steeper of the two routes. During the 80s and 90s American Alpine Institute expeditions were responsible for dozens of new routes in the Cordillera Real.

The route selection on Pequeno Alpamayo often takes place based on how one feels. The mountain's summit rises to 17,618 feet above sea level, so the oxygen is a bit thin. Many who might see the Southeast Face as a quick jog will find it to be somewhat more difficult due to the altitude. Climbing steep terrain at 17,000 feet often requires one to take a bit more time on each pitch. This is primarily because climbers tend to take a few breaths between each tool placement.

Both routes are accessed by traversing an adjacent peak. Tarija is 16,601 feet and is often considered an objective in and of itself. This approach to the mountain provides for an excellent view of the potential routes. Many of the striking photos of Pequeno Alpamayo have been taken from Tarija's summit.

Following is a photo essay from a series of ascents of Pequeno Alpamayo:

The classic shot taken from the summit of Tarija.
The Southwest Ridge climbs the obvious ridge.
The Southeast face ascends the steeper terrain to the left of the rocks.
Photo by Miles Newby

A group of climbers descend the Southwest Ridge
Photo by Jason Martin

Two AAI Climbers take a break in the middle of the Southwest Ridge
Photo by Jason Martin

Pequeno Alpamayo from nearby Chachapamapa
The Southeast Face route climbs up to the left of the rocks
Photo by Jason Martin

--Jason D. Martin

April and May Climbing Events

--April 24 -- Rohnert Park, CA -- SSU CCS USA Climbing Comp

--April 25 -- Boston, MA -- Collegiate Climbing Series Regionals

--April 27 -- New York, NY -- Postcards from Kathmandu

--April 27 -- Boulder, CO -- AAC Presents: Rocky Mountain Highball

The AAC and Yama Studio Present: Rocky Mountain Highball.
"Rocky Mountain Highball" is a new climbing film that presents an in depth look into why some climbers push themselves to boulder at the vertical limit. The film documents the many facets of bouldering by interweaving numerous classic climbs in Colorado with interview footage from the leading figures of the climbing world. Director,/Filmmaker Scott Neel, and Yama Studio have brought in a huge cast of world renowned climbers, like Paul Robinson, Kevin Jorgeson, Lynn Hill, Daniel Woods, and Jason Kehl. Having filmed more than 70 climbs with more than 35 athletes, this film proves to be an exciting journey through the world of highball bouldering.

To check out the trailer click here

--April 30 -- Portland, OR -- Himalaya Fundraiser

--May 2 -- San Marcos, TX -- Texas State University Bouldering Comp

--May 2-3 -- Austin, TX -- Mountain Gear's UClimb

--May 2 -- Troutdale, OR -- The 6th Annual Broughton's Bluff Bushwhack and BBQ

It's that time again! Time to get friends together, old and new, to give back to the crag that gives us so much the year round! As usual we will be bringing in all the tools, swag, beta, and food to keep you and our beloved crag stoked all season long! Come get dirty, get pumped, and get fed!

This year we will be fighting the usual battle to stabilize the hill-side trails and belay platforms, as well as, building/reinforcing trail systems on the back side of the park. We will also have a small group of experts replacing "time-bomb" bolts and anchors with 1/2" stainless steel thanks to our friends at the ASCA.

Bring your rope and appetite because the afternoon is when the day really starts to heat up with four-star vertical action and feasting a-plenty!

--May 2 -- Shawnee, OK -- OBU/Compass Wilderness Bouldering Competition

--May 3 -- Lincoln, RI -- USAC Onsight Competition

--May 3 -- College Park, MD -- UMD Climbing Throwdown

--May 3 -- Post Falls, ID -- Kootenai Klimbers Cleanup

-- May 3 -- Renton, WA -- Passages Northwest 12th Annual Courage Benefit

Passages Northwest 12th Annual Courage Benefit. For 12 years, Passages Northwest has provided wilderness adventures for girls, including rock climbing, backpacking, and sea kayaking, to help girls test their courage and leadership. We serve diverse groups of girls from the Seattle area, with a specific focus on providing access to the natural world to people who have been historically under-represented in outdoor pursuits. We have never turned away a participant for lack of funds.

For more information: wilderness@passagesnw.org or visit http://passagesnw.org

--May 7 -- Seattle, WA -- Bree Loewen: Pickets and Dead Men. Book signing and slide show

--May 7-May 10 -- Carbondale, CO -- Five Point Film Festival

The 5Point Film Festival is on a mission to inspire adventure of all kinds, to connect generations through shared experience and respect, to engage passion with a conscience, and to educate through film.

On the edge between desire and fear, between the known and unknown, is a place deep inside us all where the spirit is transformed — pushed beyond its limit by our deliberate commitment to usher in something new and original. In this soulful place we are catalyzed to learn, expand and engender newfound understanding to inspire others on their journeys. It is this spirit, this thirst for adventure that the 5Point Film Festival celebrates and shares with the community and filmmakers that gather for its annual Festival in Carbondale.

The 5Point Film Festival is on a mission to inspire adventure of all kinds, to connect generations through shared experience and respect, to engage passion with a conscience, and to educate through film.

The 5Point Film Festival inspires us to explore wild places and to return with a renewed vigor to protect our natural world. Proceeds from the 5Point Film Festival, a 501(c)3 non-profit, benefit 1% for the Planet, Carbondale Environmental Board and other non-profits throughout the Roaring Fork Valley and beyond.

--May 9 -- Seattle, WA -- Skip Yowell - Founder of Jansport

--May 9 -- Smith Rock, OR -- Smith Rock Spring Thing

--May 9 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Spring Mountain Clean-up
Join new friends in the cool mountain breezes among the shade of trees to help remove litter from the mountain environment and recreation sites that can be found in the Mt. Charleston area. A special group of outdoor enthusiasts (hikers, mountain bikers, and climbers) is being organized to clean the pullouts along the Deer Creek Highway (the road between Kyle and Lee canyons). This may involve off trail walking over some possibly steeper, more uneven terrain that will require sure footed and fit individuals.

Please volunteer today! This is a great opportunity to help preserve the natural beauty of the Spring Mountains. Just a little bit of work and a whole lot of fun! We depend on the mountain and the mountain depends on you.

Spring Cleaning
Saturday, May 9
9:30am - 10:00am .........Volunteer Check-in
10:00am - 1:00pm..........Volunteer Litter Pickup
1:00pm - 3:00pm...........BBQ with Live Entertainment and Raffle Prizes
Volunteer Today!
Contact: Ron Rudy
kiwanoron@hotmail.com • 702.238.4108

--May 9 -- Ann Arobr, MI -- Bouldering Competition

--May 10 -- Seattle, WA -- Festival of Trees

--May 15-16 -- New River Gorge, WVNew River Rendezvous

This 3-day climbing festival is a celebration of climbing at the New River Gorge. The weekend is full of climbing, food, friends and fun. NRMG holds instructional clinics taught by pro-climbers like Lynn Hill, Brittany Griffith and many more. Pre-registration is required to attend the event and clinics.

--May 16 -- Montreal, QC -- 2009 Canadian Bouldering Championships

--May 16-17 -- Baraboo, WI -- Mountain Gear's UClimb

--May 16 -- Portland, OR -- Madrone Wall Restoration Event and Clean Up

--May 16 -- Red Rocks, CO -- Red Rocks Canyon Open Space Clean-Up

--May 22-26 -- Kalymnos, Greece -- International Kalymnos Climbing Festival

--May 30-31 -- Fayetteville, WV -- Mountain Gear's UClimb

Mount Baker Volcano Research Center Fundraiser

We recently received the following email from the Mount Baker Volcanic Research Center:

Dear friends,

For those of you who aren’t aware of the annual MBVRC shirt sale, this is the second annual fundraiser for us. We aim to raise enough money to provide grants to people who are doing research at Mount Baker.

Thanks,
Dave Tucker

Time to order MOUNT BAKER VOLCANO RESEARCH CENTER 2009 fundraiser t-shirts!

Support geologic research at Mount Baker. The 2009 design is new, by Melissa Park, grad student at Western Washington University; a black version is shown in the attachment. The stencil in all cases is white. This year’s shirt shows a steaming Mount Baker from Table Mountain. Shirts are printed in Bellingham by locally-owned Amjay Screenprinting. Forward this announcement to friends and colleagues, but keep the order deadline in mind: THE ORDER DEADLINE IS MONDAY, MAY 4TH

PRICES:

Orders outside the US- please add $5 for shipping
Men’s short-sleeve: $15 each
Men’s long-sleeve: $20 each
Women’s long-sleeve: $20 each
Women’s heavy cotton short-sleeve: $15 each
Women’s light cotton short-sleeve: $17 each
Kid’s short sleeve: $15

HOW TO ORDER: Send an email with your choices of size(s) and color(s) to: shirts@mbvrc.wwu.edu Include a mailing address. THE ORDER DEADLINE IS MONDAY, MAY 4TH

PAYMENT: Please pay right away with a check (US funds only), made out to Mount Baker Volcano Research. If you are on Western Washington University’s campus, you may leave this check, in an envelope, in Dave Tucker’s box in the Geology Department office. Or, mail it to: Shirts c/o Dave Tucker 708 13th St. Bellingham, WA 98225 USA
In all cases, with your order, PLEASE PROVIDE YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS SO WE CAN NOTIFY YOU IF THERE ARE DELAYS OR COLOR OR SIZE PROBLEMS

DELIVERY: Shirts will be mailed to you. If you have a box on the WWU campus, they can be left in your box, unless you order more than will fit. Then we will arrange delivery by email.

Visit the MOUNT BAKER VOLCANO RESEARCH CENTER WEBSITE AT http://mbvrc.wwu.edu
REMEMBER THE ORDER DEADLINE IS MONDAY MAY 4TH

How it's Made: Climbing Ropes

The Discovery Channel has a wonderfully engaging television show entitled, How it's Made. They recently ran an episode on how ropes are made with a focus on climbing ropes and yachting ropes.

Check out the video below:



Sterling Ropes also produced a video on how climbing ropes are made. Though the production values of this video are a little bit lower than that of the Discovery Channel show, there is a great deal more specific information about climbing rope construction. There are also a few goofy jokes that make this video fun to watch.

See the Sterling video below:



--Jason D. Martin

Weekend Warrior -- Videos to get you stoked!

Hello again Weekend Warriors!

This week I decided to focus the videos on one of our great local climbing areas, Index.  This places features fantastic granite and steep routes that are sure to get your arms pumped!  There have been some recent rumors about the owner of the land selling it off to be quarried.  Once you check out these videos you'll see why this would be an incredible loss to Washington climbers.  Check out this link for the current status of this development.  Enjoy the videos and I hope you all get out this weekend to play!

The first video features a climber cruising Thin Fingers (5.11a), an ultra classic route on the Lower Town Wall.

The second video features Roger's Corner (5.9), yet another great route in the Lower Town Wall area.  

Climb Up so Kids with AIDS Can Grow Up

AAI is a national sponsor of the program "Climb Up the 50," a fund raising event May 23-31 in which hikers and climbers will be scaling the highest peak in each of the fifty states. The funds that are raised will cover the cost of desperately needed AIDS-related medications, supplies, and food for children infected with the disease in the hardest-hit countries, including Kenya, Uganda, and Zimbabwe. The lead organization is the American Foundation for Children with AIDS (AFCA).

Many climbers are inspired to join the effort because even modest amounts of fund raising can do so much. Thanks to the participation of generous donors, each dollar allows AFCA to distribute and deliver great quantities of life-saving medicine to HIV positive children, and thanks to the efficiencies of AFCA, none of the money raised is spent on overhead and administrative costs: 100% of it goes to benefit the children.

Think about being a part of this effort! Register here.

Here's an article that was recently published on the Huffington Post:

To raise funding and awareness for children living with AIDS in Africa, the tallest mountain peak in every state in America will be scaled this spring. The American Foundation for Children with AIDS (AFCA), in partnership with the American Alpine Institute, is sponsoring "Climb Up the 50."

Funding from this dramatic, synchronized climb-a-thon will pay for the uphill battle to support children with AIDS. Funding will cover AIDS-related medication, supplies, and food for children infected with the disease in the hardest-hit countries, including Kenya, Uganda, and Zimbabwe.

The program includes Climb Up the 50, Climb Up the World, and Climb Up Kilimanjaro.

Climb Up the 50 is based in the U.S, with participants climbing or hiking up the highest point in their state sometime during May 23-31. Teams of people will join to climb the highest peak in their state.

Florida has the lowest peak, with an elevation of only 345 feet above sea level. The highest peak in the country is found in Alaska -- Denali (Mount McKinley) -- at over 20,000 feet above sea level. A team's goal is to raise $5,000 for the organization while individuals raise either $90, $180, or $360.

Climb Up the World participants can engage in the event by running, climbing, hiking or cycling -- where ever in the world they are -- on September 19 or 20.

Each person who registers to take part in the event can either raise $90, $180, or $360. Each amount is the equivalent of 3 months, 6 months, or one full-year of life-saving medication for a child. The $25 registration fee covers all administrative costs so all raised donations will be used for AFCA-related programs. Teams raise $5,000.

The Climb Up Kilimanjaro is the most daring event. The team consists of 12 brave people who will climb up Mount Kilimanjaro -- at 19,330 feet, the highest peak in Africa. The Kilimanjaro team wishes to raise $10,000 per person to cover costs of climbing and the money needed for the AFCA's initiatives. This 10-day climb will take place Sept. 11-24.

The mountain climbing apparel manufacturer Merell has agreed to donate the footwear needed to the 12 members of the Kilimanjaro team.

Tanya Weaver, executive director of the AFCA says, "AFCA has received tremendous support from the climbing community around the world. We think the challenge of climbing to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro is an appropriate symbol for the uphill battle HIV/AIDS children face."

This viral event is not just limited to climbing. The AFCA invites anyone and everyone to climb, hike, bike, or run for whatever distance to raise money for the children.

Corporations are encouraged to either sponsor, match donations, or organize a team of their own. Non-participants of the fundraiser can go the AFCA's website for the program and sponsor one of the climbers for the Climb Up Kilimanjaro part of the program.

The AFCA's aid in HIV/AIDS stricken countries does not go unnoticed. Children who have received care from hospitals funded by the organization have sent letters of appreciation, which can be viewed on their website.

The organization I founded ten years ago, Orphans International Worldwide, has a community center at the base of Mount Kilimanjaro at OI Tanzania, serving AIDS orphans and other children. Hopefully the Kilimanjaro team will stop by and visit the children currently staying there before they embark on their ten-day journey up the highest peak in Africa.

The American Foundation for Children with AIDS looks to provide children suffering from HIV/AIDS with effective treatment and life-saving medication. The AFCA provides education, medical and social support as well as humanitarian relief. More information can be found on their site, HelpChildrenWithAIDS.org.

The American Alpine Institute is dedicated to helping climbers hone their skills and learn to protect the environment in which they climb. They are currently working on sponsoring the AFCA's Climb Up So Kids Can Grow up programs. More can be found on their website, AAI.cc.

With Nancy Minyanou. Edited by Rebecca Nutley. We, Jim Luce, Nancy Minyanou and Rebecca Nutley, contribute the above article to the public domain.

Northern Areas of Denali National Park and Preserve Closed to Snowmobile Use Due to Inadequate Snow Cover

AAI just received the following email from Denali National Park:

Due to longer days, and warming temperatures, Denali National Park and Preserve Superintendent Paul Anderson has determined that there is no longer adequate snow cover for the use of snowmobiles for traditional activities in the 1980 additions to Denali National Park and Preserve that are north of the Alaska Range. Those park lands that were open for snowmobile use are now closed for the season. Snow cover in the area is broken up with large areas of exposed vegetation, and the remaining areas of snow are less than 6 inches deep. “At this time the snow depth and structure of the snowpack are no longer adequate to protect vegetation and soils from damage by snowmachine use” stated Anderson.

The snow cover south of the Alaska Range is still adequate for the use of snowmobiles for traditional activities in the 1980 additions to Denali National Park and Preserve, but riders should anticipate a closure in this area soon. River corridors have open water and the snowpack is diminishing quickly.

Riders are reminded that all lands within the former Mount McKinley National Park on both the north and the south sides of the Alaska Range are closed to all snowmobile use by federal regulation. Snowmobile users wishing to access lands adjacent to this area should become familiar with the location of park boundaries prior to their trip.

The Denali Park Road is currently open for travel by private vehicles to the Savage River at Mile 15. The Murie Science and Learning Center at Mile 1.3 on the park road is open daily from 9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. for visitor information and backcountry permits.

The Riley Creek Campground at Mile 0.2 is open for free camping until May 15, but water and sewer services are not yet available. A vault toilet is provided for campers in the loop that is kept open year-round, and water can be obtained at the Murie Science and Learning Center.

Visitors can obtain information by calling park headquarters at (907) 683-2294 from 8:00 a.m.-4:30 p.m. daily. Trip planning information is also available on the park website at www.nps.gov/dena.

The Critic

A month or so ago I was raked over the coals by a few people who felt that I'd been unfair in my review of the Discovery Channel television show, Man vs. Wild.  There were some very poignant comments about the tone of my blog.  I have a background in writing film criticism for alternative weeklies where if you aren't sarcastic, your work won't be published.  And sometimes I do lean toward that tone here.  

I don't think you guys want to read a bland blog.  Indeed, that particular post got people fired-up and we had a bit of a debate about the merits of the television show.  I really enjoyed reading the comments that a few of you put up about the show, both those that agreed with me as well as those who disagreed.

Even a documentary style television show is an artistic endeavor.  And I would argue that such endeavors provide the most insight when they are debated in an open forum.  This is particularly valuable when we look at films, books and television shows that delve into our shared passion for outdoor adventure and mountain climbing.  Such debates provide an opening for a dialogue about specific techniques and ideas.

It turns out that we're not the only place where this show has been debated.  Check this out and this.

I've done a handful of book and film reviews since I started managing this blog and I thought that it might be time for me to explain what I look for when I'm writing about these types of things.  The nineteenth-century writer, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe defined the questions that a critic should ask of any piece of work for which he is reviewing.  They are as follows:

1. What are they doing?
2. Did they do it well?
3. And was it worth doing?

When I post criticism here, it is for a very specific audience.  All of you are outdoors people, adventurers, or climbers.  Indeed, most of you are some combination of each of these things.  When I answer Goethe's questions, my goal is to filter them through the lens of the audience that comes here to read what we post.  My goal is to provide criticism through both my experience as a guide and as a critic.  Ideally, this helps you decide what films, books and television shows you may want to spend your time on.

The old adage is that everybody's a critic.  This is true.  I may see real value in a certain book or a certain film, but that doesn't mean that you will too.  You may find my recommendation dry or boring or over-the-top and you might find that you disagree with my criticism.  If that happens, let me know.  This blog is always more interesting when the readers participate in the conversation...

For your reading pleasure (or displeasure), here are a few of the reviews and entertainment oriented articles that I've done for this blog:

Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher

Climbing Self-Rescue

Climbing Scenes in Non-Climbing Movies

Discovery Channel Survival Shows

Encounters at the End of the World

Last Child in the Woods

Red Fred

Red Rock Odyssey

The Worst Climbing Movies Ever

Touching the Void

--Jason D. Martin

April and May Climbing Events

--April 2 -- Seattle, WA -- Climb for Life

Climb for Life is a fundraising event for HERA Women's Cancer Foundation, a national nonprofit that aims to empower women, researchers, and local communities in the fight against ovarian canter. While Climb for Life events are designed to raise awareness of ovarian cancer and raise funds for finding a cure, they are also a great introduction to the sport of climbing, and its physical and mental benefits. Climb for Life and other HERA events are held throughout the country year-round. For more information about HERA please click here.

--April 3 -- Lincoln, RI -- Collegiate Climbing Series - Rhode Island

USA Climbing began the inaugural season of the Collegiate Climbing Series in January 2009. The first Collegiate Climbing Series is held in six regions across the nation with 30 competitions. Competitors in the series must be currently enrolled in an accredited academic institution.

Each Series will include individual and team competition. USA Climbing compiles and tracks both the individual and team results on their website. Each series will consist of four local regular season events and a regional championship. Individual awards will be given out at each local event. At the culmination of the Regional Championship, a team champion will be announced as well as the individual series champions. Registration is open on the USA Climbing website. The Schedule of events can also be found there.

For more information on the CCS, go to www.usaclimbing.org.

--April 4 -- Marquette, MI -- Norther Michigan University's Annual Superior Climbing Competition

--April 9 -- Seattle, WA -- Skip Yowell Slideshow and Booksigning

--April 10 -- Seattle, WA -- FONWAC Snoball Dinner

The Friends of the Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center is ramping up for the inaugural Snowball Dinner and Auction, an end-of-season celebration to support NWAC. Join the party on Fri, April 10 for some good food, great auction items, shared stories and maybe a prayer for more snow in 2010! NWAC is facing a potential budget shortfall of over $100,000 next year. Come out and show your support for a service we all rely on to plan trips and stay safe in the mountains. More info and tickets click here. Buy them now...tickets will not be available at the door.

News to you? Sign up for periodic updates from the Friends of NWAC and get in the loop about avalanche awareness in the Northwest.

--April 17 -- Bellingham, WA -- Mount Baker Ariel Photography

--April 18-19 -- Shenendoah National Park. VA -- Shenendoah Rockfest

--April 18 -- Bishop, CA -- Buttermilks Clean-Up and Slideshow

--April 19 -- Duluth, MN -- Concrete Smorgasbord

--April 20 -- Seattle, WA -- Ken Burns National Park Film

--April 24 -- Rohnert Park, CA -- SSU CCS USA Climbing Comp

--April 25 -- Boston, MA -- Collegiate Climbing Series Regionals

--April 25 -- El Cerrito, CA -- Masters of Stone VI - Full-Feature Premier

--April 25 -- Joshua Tree, CA -- Stonemaster Slide Show & Tarbuster Benefit

--May 3 -- Lincoln, RI -- USAC Onsight Competition

--May 7-May 10 -- Carbondale, CO -- Five Point Film Festival

The 5Point Film Festival is on a mission to inspire adventure of all kinds, to connect generations through shared experience and respect, to engage passion with a conscience, and to educate through film.

On the edge between desire and fear, between the known and unknown, is a place deep inside us all where the spirit is transformed — pushed beyond its limit by our deliberate commitment to usher in something new and original. In this soulful place we are catalyzed to learn, expand and engender newfound understanding to inspire others on their journeys. It is this spirit, this thirst for adventure that the 5Point Film Festival celebrates and shares with the community and filmmakers that gather for its annual Festival in Carbondale.

The 5Point Film Festival is on a mission to inspire adventure of all kinds, to connect generations through shared experience and respect, to engage passion with a conscience, and to educate through film.

The 5Point Film Festival inspires us to explore wild places and to return with a renewed vigor to protect our natural world. Proceeds from the 5Point Film Festival, a 501(c)3 non-profit, benefit 1% for the Planet, Carbondale Environmental Board and other non-profits throughout the Roaring Fork Valley and beyond.

--May 9 -- Seattle, WA -- Skip Yowell - Founder of Jansport

Wilderness Navigation -- An Overview

There are many parts to wilderness navigation, but four tools stand out as being the most important.  First, a good topographical map.  Second, a compass.  Third, an altimeter.  And fourth a GPS unit.   Each of these items is a complex tool that takes a great deal of time and energy to use effectively.  

The following video, made by the owner of Midwest Mountaineering, Rod Johnson, is a brief overview of the components required for successful wilderness navigation.

The map, the compass, the altimeter and the GPS must all be used in conjunction to one another.  A climber should never depend solely on one of these items, but must practice using them as complimentary tools.

The best time to practice with navigation tools is when you need them the least.  When the weather is good and it is possible to see everything, then there is little need for these.  But when the weather is good, it is also possible to see what real-life features look like on a map. Understanding what the real-world looks like vs. the world in a white-out when you are completely reliant on your understanding of your tools is incredibly important.  If you can get your systems worked out in perfect weather, then you'll be ready for it when things are less than perfect...

Jason D. Martin

Weekend Warrior -- Videos to get you stoked!

Gutan Tag Weekend Warriors,

This weekend I decided to pay tribute to that famous, iconic European peak...The Eiger.  Climbing and mountaineering has its roots in the Alps and those wild Europeans are constantly looking for new ways to experience the mountains.  No longer satisfied with just climbing the Eiger these thrill-seekers and hard-core adventurers run up, ski/parachute down, or simply fly around this incredible peak.  

We'll start this video line-up with world-class climber Ueli Steck literally running up the North Face of the Eiger.  Watch him set the speed record, climbing the face in 2 hrs 47 min and 33 sec.  Sorry for the camera ad at the end of this one.  Simply incredible footage though...

The second video is one of my personal favorites.  It features one of the most extreme sports I have seen, speed-riding.  Watch as this guy "skis" down the North Face with an adapted parachute that lets him fly over hazards and off of cliffs.  And to think, I'm still stuck on the bunny hill...

The final video features yet another extreme sport that is on my list to learn, wing-suit skydiving.  This video has some very intimate footage of the Eiger as these athletes fly down the mountain.  

Middle Fork Snoqualmie River Road Closed

The following email just arrived at the AAI office:

Last winter’s flooding caused landslides, road and bridge washouts that have closed Middle Fork Snoqualmie River Road to motor vehicles at milepost 1.4 at the end of the couplet. Although the road will be opened temporarily on weekends to milepost 2.4 to give access to Mailbox Peak Trailhead, it will be closed to motorized vehicles from there through milepost 18.5 in the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. King County and Forest Service engineers estimate finishing the repairs this summer or fall. For information call King County at 206-296-8100; or Forest Service at 425-888-1421.

Taylor Bridge on the Middle Fork Snoqualmine road.

Photo by Rick Driggs

Clearing the North Cascades Highway

Washington State Department of Transportation (WSDOT) maintenance crewmembers on both the east and west sides of the North Cascades mountain passes are in the process of clearing snow from 37 miles of the highway, including Rainy and Washington passes. Work started on Monday, March 30.

State Route 20, the North Cascades Highway, is the northernmost route across the Cascades in Washington. This scenic byway is part of the Cascade Loop, a 400-mile driving tour through the Cascades. WSDOT closes the North Cascades Highway in the winter when snow and avalanche danger threatens the safety of drivers and maintenance crews. On average, the highway is closed between late November and early December and reopens in the spring between late March and early May.



Clearing the North Cascades Highway is a significant effort each year. WSDOT crews will work 10-hour days, Monday through Thursday, through April.

While it’s impossible to predict exactly when they will have it open – due to weather (the Cascades have gotten 32 more inches of snow in the last 21 days), avalanche danger, equipment breakdowns, and crew health – they are hoping they can match last year.

The highway reopened May 1 last spring and was closed for the season on Dec. 11. The cost to reopen the highway each spring typically runs from $200,000 to $250,000. WSDOT requires that climbers and skiers engage in frequent and varied spring skiing and climbing trips to make this a good investment :) .

A natural avalanche covering the roadway at mile post 165.

The same place . . . several hours of work later.

. . . Looking good! On Tuesday morning, this is the Lloyd Logging D-8 caterpillar cutting a pocket above the shoulder, below an avalanche chute along Cutthroat Ridge, so if any more snow slides, it won't end up on the roadway.

While clearing snow off SR 20, the crews see a lot of different wildlife. This time it was a rabbit. They said it's actually not uncommon for them to see rabbits along the snow-covered highway. They said that this particular rabbit was charging the snowblowers, and was following them as they worked.

Little (pre-powdered) snow donuts rolled their way down the hill and landed near our maintenance crews clearing snow from the highway.

Check out more photos on WSDOT's Flickr site!

Highway 20 Update

AAI just received the following email from the Washington State Department of Transportation:

There are more new photos from Monday's work on the flickr site and there's a special treat - SNOW DOUGHNUTS! By Tuesay, on the west side, they got to MP 154 (Swamp Creek) which is about 3-1/2 miles below Rainy Pass. The east side crew is busy cutting through the slides from the 11 avalanche chutes in the Cutthroat Ridge zone (MP 168-166, near Silver Star Mountain).

Last week, we made good progress with favorable weather and no equipment problems...until Thursday. When the snow started sliding and avalanche control became necessary on Stevens Pass, work had to stop on the east side. By law, our avalanche techs must monitor snow stability while the crews are working below active chutes. By Wednesday evening, they crew had gotten to CR1, but with the avalanche crew down on Stevens, no clearing work could be done Thursday. (So the Twisp crew spent the day doing regular maintenance from Winthrop to Loup Loup Pass.)

On Monday, Avalanche forecaster Mike Stanford showed up with the Avalanche crew's snow cat. While he kept an eye on the snow conditions, crews used it and an excavator to cut down the snow piled up below CR1. The Kodiak snow blower can take about an 8 foot “bite” and some of the snow slides through the Cutthroat Ridge zone are twice that deep. A second Kodiak snow blower from Stevens joined the effort on Tuesday.

By the end of Tuesday, they had cleared CR1 and CR2.

Today, the giant rental D-6 and D-8 caterpillars are traveling ahead up to the Liberty Bell Avalanche zone and to start cutting those huge snow piles down to size. We want that section ready for the snow blowers when they get that far, sometime next week.

Last week’s snow that hit the central Cascades hard didn’t dump as much in the northern Cascades and the weather today actually started out sunny, while it’s gone from two days of sunshine to overcast and foggy down on Stevens and Snoqualmie.
Obviously putting the snow shoe rabbit in charge and spotting some lucky snow doughnuts are good signs!

Climbing Commands

One of the most inconsistent things in the entire world of climbing are climbing commands. Climbers commonly hook up for a day of climbing with little knowledge of how to communicate with one another at the crag. It is always important to review your climbing commands with a new partner so that no mistakes are made.

The most common mistakes in a command series tend to come around the word "take." Climbers often use the word in two different ways. Some will say "take" in lieu of the command, "up rope." Whereas others will say "take" to mean "take my weight." A much larger problem arises out of the nature of a word that only has one syllable. "Take" could also be mistaken for the words, "safe" or "slack." Either of these mistakes could have tragic consequences. The result is that we try to teach people not to use the word.

The following sets of commands reflect what AAI guides are teaching in the field.

Toprope Commands:

Climber: On belay?
Belayer: (After checking that everyone's double-backed, that knots are correct and that the belay device is threaded appropriately.) Belay on.
Climber: Climbing.
Belayer: Climb on.

Once the climber reaches the top, the following discourse should take place:

Climber: Tension.
Belayer: (After pulling the stretch out of the rope and locking it off.) Tension on.
Climber: Ready to lower.
Belayer: Lowering.

It's important to close out the commands at the end. People often get lazy about the next set. Once the climber is back on the ground the following commands should take place.

Climber: Belay off.
Belayer: Thank-you. (Then after removing the device from the rope:) Off belay.

The "thank-you" exists in this series to get individuals ready for multi-pitch climbing where the words are used a great deal.

Multi-Pitch Commands:

You'll notice that the words "thank-you" are used heavily throughout this command series. We use to words to acknowledge that an individual heard the last command. For those who don't normally use the words "thank-you" as part of your personal series, I would recommend trying it. A lot of stress melts away on multi-pitch climbs when you know that your partner heard you.

Following are the commands that we teach in a multi-pitch setting:

Climber: On belay?
Belayer: (After checking that everyone's double-backed, that knots are correct and that the belay device is threaded appropriately.) Belay on.
Climber: Climbing.
Belayer: Climb on.

Once the climber has reached the top, built an anchor and tied-in, the following commands should take place:

Climber: Off belay!
Belayer: Thank-you! (The belayer will then take the rope out of his device.)Belay off!
Climber: Thank-you! (The climber will then pull up all the slack.)
Belayer: That's me!
Climber: Thank-you! (The climber will then put the belayer on belay.) Belay on!
Belayer: Thank-you! (The belayer will break down the anchor and then yell just before he is about to climb.) Climbing!
Climber: Climb on!

Ancillary Commands:

These are commands that are not necessarily said on every single climb. These are only said if there is a need. The commands are as follows:

Rock -- This should be yelled whenever anything falls. If you hear this, press your body against the wall and do not look up. Your helmet will provide some protection. Unfortunately, sometimes people yell "stick" or "camera." Such unusual commands often result in inappropriate reactions. In other words a person may not immediately attempt to get out of the way.

Watch me -- Climber will say this to a belayer if he is nervous and thinks he might fall.

Falling -- The appropriate command if you actually fall.

Up rope -- When a climber says this, he is asking that slack be eliminated from the system.

Slack -- The climber needs slack.

Tension -- Anytime a climber wants to sit back on the rope and rest they should use this command.

Clipping -- Periodically a leader will need more rope to clip a piece of protection. When a leader says this he's actually asking for a few feet of slack.

--Jason D. Martin