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Boulder, CO and New York, NY November 13, 2009 - Skram Media, a leading publisher of special interest outdoor magazines and websites, today announced that the Anchor Replacement Initiative (ARI) has surpassed last years total of routes upgraded by 20%. With 2 months of the year remaining and a number of ARI projects underway and scheduled to be completed before the year ends, 2009 is guaranteed to be the ARI’s most productive year ever.
“I’m delighted that 2009 is the most productive ARI year in the programs six year history”, commented Mark Crowther Skram Media’s Publisher. “Thanks to the support of The North Face and Petzl, the ARI continues to make a real difference to the climbing community”, he added.
“In addition to the year on year build up of grassroots knowledge and know-how, we launched three new initiatives at the start of 2009: an ARI road trip which we plan to repeat next year, a social media program through twitter, and a new editorial section in Climbing Magazine, Anchored, which profiles ARI volunteers and their work,” Crowther commented.
“This is a great accomplishment,” says Kevin Riley, Skram Media’s ARI Program Manager, “The goal of the ARI is to ensure the safest anchors possible on routes of all levels at the country’s most popular crags. The ARI’s continued success this year means another major step forward in safety for climbers.”
John Evans, Marketing Director for Petzl America, added, “One look at the anchors replaced by the ARI and it’s obvious how valuable this program is.”
About the ARI
The Anchor Replacement Initiative (ARI) is an industry-supported and industry driven program that serves the U.S. climbing community by systematically replacing worn-out or inadequate belay and rappel anchors. The ARI is a network of climbing community activists, who are familiar with the needs at their areas and have the expertise and judgment to replace existing belay and rappel stations. Since the Anchor Replacement Initiative’s (ARI) establishment in 2003, supported by Climbing Magazine, The North Face, Petzl and countless volunteers across the country have touched 30 different destinations, maintaining over 1,500 anchors. For more: climbing.com/community/ari and twitter.com/ClimbingARI.
About The North Face®
The North Face®, a subsidiary of VF Corp., was founded in 1966 and opened its first retail store in 1968. Headquartered in San Leandro, California, the company offers the most technically advanced products in the market to accomplished climbers, mountaineers, extreme skiers, and explorers. The company's products are sold in specialty mountaineering, backpacking, and skiing retailers, premium-sporting goods retailers, and major outdoor-specialty retail chains. Additional information about The North Face® can be found on the company’s website, www.thenorthface.com.
About Petzl
Petzl America is the U.S. division of Petzl, headquartered in France. Petzl America, based in Clearfield, Utah, has been recognized by Outside Magazine’s Best Places to Work 2008. For over 50 years, Petzl has been developing innovative tools and techniques used by those entering the vertical world. Today, the Petzl brand is closely associated with adventure, exploration, rescue, and many notable exploits in the worlds of rock climbing and alpinism. Petzl climbing hardware and headlamps can be found in outdoor specialty shops and premium sporting goods retailers around the world. For more information, visit: www.petzl.com.
About Skram Media
Skram Media leads the industry by providing a portfolio of highly read multiplatform outdoor editorial products, including Climbing Magazine, Climbing.com, Urban Climber Magazine, UrbanClimberMag.com, MyUCTV.com, Mountain Gazette, and MountainGazette.com. The portfolio provides synergy between print and digital properties, reaching over 330,000 readers monthly and many more online. With the acquisition of Mountain Gazette in Fall 2008, Skram Media provides advertisers the opportunity to reach the full spectrum of mountain and outdoor enthusiasts.
For more information, please contact:
Mark Crowther
mark.crowther@skrammedia.com
212-691-2927 x101
Las Vegas, Nev. – Registration has officially opened for the seventh annual “Mountain Gear Presents: Red Rock Rendezvous” (RRR) rock climbing festival, title sponsored by the North Face. RRR will return to the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area near Las Vegas on March 19-21, 2010, to benefit The Access Fund, a climbing and environmentally focus organization, and other local and national non- profit organizations. This year’s event is limited to the first 1,000 registrants and early registration is recommended. To register, visit www.RedRockRendezvous.com
“With the limited number of spaces available for Red Rock Rendezvous and specific clinics within the event, we are encouraging climbers to sign-up early,” said Phil Bridgers, RRR event coordinator. “As this event has grown into one of the most popular rock climbing festivals in the country, we cap registration to maintain a level of excellence and appropriately cater to outdoor enthusiasts and climbers of all skill levels.”
For the first time, Red Rock Rendezvous will offer an intro to mountain biking clinic on Friday, March 19 that will teach basic biking skills and how to read off road trails. This Friday clinic along with the Saturday and Sunday climbing clinics will be $159 and will include the rental of a mountain bike provided by Specialized Bikes. Red Rock Rendezvous will also offer beginner, intermediate and advanced mountain biking clinics as part of the Saturday and Sunday clinic schedule.
For less experienced climbers and those who have never attempted the difficulty levels of the Red Rock Canyon, the festival will offer a Friday “Intro to Climbing: UClimb” day. UClimb is designed to teach all ages how to rock climb in small-group settings with other amateur climbers. The full-day introduction clinics will teach climbing fundamentals to succeed at Red Rocks and other outdoor settings.
The clinics will take place in an intimate clinic setting by professional guides from the American Alpine Institute who are also some of the world’s most accomplished climbers. “Intro UClimb” participants will then be able to enjoy one full day and one half day throughout the weekend. There will also be an optional gear package that will include harness, helmet, shoes, belay device, carabiner, chalk bag and a membership to the Access Fund. The gear package with the “Intro UClimb” day and the weekend climbing clinics is $349.
The festival will also offer clinics for advanced and intermediate climbers on Saturday and Sunday. Registration is $99 per person for the Saturday and Sunday events, and $179 per person for the Friday “Intro UClimb” day and Saturday and Sunday clinic combo (without the gear package). Registration includes the Friday night opening celebration, a dinner buffet on Saturday night, demos, comps and mini- seminars by event sponsors, slideshow and movie on Friday night, a
blow-out party on Saturday night, pancake breakfast Sunday morning and service projects to assist in the environmental conservation of the Red Rock Canyon and Spring Mountain.
All of the festival activities, outside of the climbing clinics, will take place at Spring Mountain Ranch State Park located approximately 10 minutes from the entrance to the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. This year’s Red Rock Rendezvous participant camping will be at Bonnie Springs, one mile south of Spring Mountain Ranch. The festival will be running a shuttle bus between the campground and the festival locations throughout the event.
Event proceeds will benefit The Access Fund, a national non-profit organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment. Other benefiting organizations include the American Safe Climbing Association, the American Alpine Club, Friends of Red Rocks and the Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council.
For additional information, call 800.829.2009 or visit www.RedRockRendezvous.com
The public can buy permits to cut Christmas trees on the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest beginning Nov. 12 through Dec. 24.
Cutting areas are located within national forest lands in the eastern portions of Pierce, King, Snohomish, Skagit and Whatcom counties. Maps and information about cutting areas are provided where permits are sold at ranger stations and the Verlot and Glacier Public Service Centers.
Additionally, permits are sold at REI’s Alderwood Mall and the Outdoor Recreation Information Center located inside the downtown Seattle REI store. Permits cost $10 each, one tree per permit, with a tree height limit of 12 feet. The permits are nonrefundable.
Trees taller than 12 feet require a special permit at a minimum price of $20. Credit cards are not accepted at Forest Service offices or the Outdoor Recreation Information Center in the Seattle REI store, however, the REI at Alderwood Mall will take them. Forest Service offices and REI stores are closed Thanksgiving Day. Forest Service offices may close early Thanksgiving and Christmas Eve, so call ahead for operating hours.
Plan to purchase a parking permit if the trip includes parking in a designated Sno-Park lot. Getting a tree early before substantial snow falls usually means better access on forest roads. “Set out early in the day to allow for maximum daylight and let friends or relatives know where you are going and when to expect you back,” said Forest Service’s Dave Kendrick, who oversees the Christmas tree permit program. Most trees are accessible only by narrow, unplowed mountain roads. High-clearance vehicles are often required along with tire chains and a shovel. Check ranger stations for road and weather information, or go online to www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs <http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs> .
Offices and Locations
Mt. Baker Ranger Station
810 State Route 20 Sedro Woolley, WA
360-856-5700 Ext. 515
Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m.
Nov. 28, 9 a.m.-3 p.m.
Dec. 5, 9 a.m.-3 p.m.
Dec. 12, 9 a.m.-3 p.m.
Glacier Public Service Center
Mt. Baker Highway 542 Glacier, WA
360-599-2714
Weekends, 9 a.m.-3 p.m.
Darrington Ranger Station
1405 Emens Ave. N. Darrington, WA
360-436-1155
Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m.
Nov. 28, 9 a.m.-3 p.m.
Dec. 5, 9 a.m.-3 p.m.
Dec. 12, 9 a.m.-3 p.m.
Verlot Public Service Center
33515 Mountain Loop Highway, Granite Falls, WA
360-691-7791
Weekends, Nov. 27, 8 a.m.-3:30 p.m.
Skykomish Ranger Station
74920 NE Stevens Pass Hwy, Skykomish, WA
360-677-2414
Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m.
Nov. 28, 29, 8 a.m.-3:30 p.m.
Dec. 5,6, 8 a.m.-3:30 p.m.
Snoqualmie Ranger Stations
North Bend Office
902 SE North Bend Way North Bend, WA
425-888-1421
Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m.
Nov. 28, 29, 8 a.m.-3:30 p.m.
Dec. 5, 6, 8 a.m.-3:30 p.m.
Dec. 12, 13, 8 a.m.-3:30 p.m.
Enumclaw Office
450 Roosevelt Ave. E. Enumclaw, WA
360-825-6585
Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m.
Nov. 28, 29, 8 a.m.-3:30 p.m.
Dec. 5, 6, 8 a.m.-3:30 p.m.
Dec. 12, 13, 8 a.m.-3:30 p.m.
Seattle REI
Outdoor Recreation Information Center
222 Yale Ave. N. Seattle, WA
206-470-4060
Mon.-Sun. 10 a.m.-6 p.m.
REI Alderwood Store
3000 184th St. SW Lynnwood, WA
425-640-6200
Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-9 p.m.; Sun. 11 a.m.-7 p.m.
So, when we last left you my friend Andy and I had just made it back from climbing the Grand Teton in a day. Needless to say we woke up the next day pretty haggard and hurting. But, after being cooped up in an office for the majority of the summer I wasn’t about to throw in the towel just yet. We said goodbye to George, our climbing ranger compadre, as he was getting ready to chase down a couple of model citizens who were hunting elk with bows…while high on meth…in the park (I’m not kidding). I didn’t envy this particular job requirement and couldn’t really think of a good way to way to go about accomplishing this task, so we left this incredible park and drove south to the Wind River Gorge and into the Cirque of the Towers.
The drive went fast and soon we had our bags packed and ready to go. I couldn’t believe my eyes; we had packed five days worth of food, supplies, and climbing gear into two 50-liter packs. After a quick stretching session to loosen up our sore legs and backs we hit the trail. The first 6 miles to Big Sandy Lake went quickly and soon we were climbing toward Jackass Pass and the alpine playground that is the Cirque.
Looking across Big Sandy Lake toward the Haystack and E. Temple Peak. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom
Pingora from the end of Lonesome Lake. The Northeast Face is just to the left of the right skyline. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom
Before long we finally caught sight of our objective, Pingora. This tower dominates the Cirque and had been sneaking its way into my dreams ever since this trip was drawn up. To finally see this incredible peak gave me a second wind and I found myself trotting along the trail, barely aware of the heavy load on my back. When we arrived in the Cirque itself I had to pinch myself. Surrounding us were huge, towering pillars of beautiful rock, jutting up from serene alpine meadows, teeming with countless streams and ponds. We found a suitable camping location above Lonesome Lake and quickly pitched our tent. We excitedly packed our bags in anticipation of the early start the next morning. Sleep came easy considering that in three days we had driven from Bellingham to Jackson, climbed the Grand, then drove to the Wind River and hiked 10 miles into the Cirque.
Andy and I both woke up early the next morning with very annoyed bodies. My calves felt like they had gallons of lactic acid built up inside and the rest of my body didn’t feel much better. We contemplated taking a rest day but the weather was supposed to be perfect today…and we were just stiff from sleeping on the ground all night, right? It wasn’t too difficult to convince ourselves that we were right and we threw on our packs and started the approach. We spotted a long line of headlamps on the opposite side of the lake and cursed ourselves for not waking up earlier, as these headlamps seemed to be headed for the same route as we were, the Northeast Face of Pingora. Everywhere I read stated that this route had become incredible popular ever since it was featured in the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. We picked up the pace hoping to beat the large group to the base of climb, but fortune was on our side that morning as they headed up a different trail and disappeared into the darkness.
We made it to the base and found ourselves alone, with only a massive face of solid granite above us. We traversed over to the start of the vertical pitches and were soon greeted by the sun as it rose above the valley to the east.
Sunrise over Lonesome Lake from high on Pingora's NE Face. Mitchell Peak is on the right and also offers some incredible climbing. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom
The weather was perfect, no wind and just the right temperature. The climbing was some of the best I had ever experienced. The pitches blended together in a wonderful swirl of incredible cracks, warm sunshine, gentle breezes, and breathtaking scenery. There is nothing about this climb that I didn’t enjoy. Every belay ledge was perfectly situated and you could just climb and climb and climb until you were almost out of rope. We moved over the stone with giant smiles on our faces. We were the only one on the route the entire day, this classic line was all ours.
Andy climbing up the first vertical pitch. A fun halfmoon-esque dihedral arching to the right. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom
Moving up the face quickly we were greeted by perfect belay stations the whole route. All smiles, all day. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom
Striking a pose after one of the best routes of my climbing career. Photo by Andy Farley
It was almost a shame to make it to the summit; a wall that good should never have to end. But, what a summit it was! We got to see the entire Cirque wrap around these lush alpine meadows and caught glimpses of the other peaks littering the Wind Rivers. We were able to get a perfect view of the other objective we had in mind, the East Ridge of Wolf’s Head.
The incredible exposure on the East Ridge of Wolf's Head makes this a classic route for many climbers. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom
That route would have to wait however, as the day we planned to climb it we woke up greeted by dark clouds, high winds, and snow flurries. Not the best conditions for the thin ridgeline and exposed traverses that make the route so appealing.
Andy trying desperately to catch us some dinner in the last remaining light. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom
The descent back to our camp went quickly and we basked in the remaining sunlight by Lonesome Lake, only getting up to take shifts fly-fishing in an attempt to catch ourselves a delicious celebratory trout supper. Needless to say we enjoyed a fantastic feast of dehydrated mashed potatoes and oriental noodles that evening.
Wolf's Head and Pingora watch over the lush alpine meadows of the Cirque. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom
The Cirque of the Towers hold a special place in my heart now and I am counting the days until I am able to return. Boy am I glad I didn’t go back to sleep that morning!
-Dana Hickenbottom, Program Coordinator and Guide
These long days always seem to begin the same way. I am lying on the ground, tucked in my warm sleeping bag trying desperately to ignore my beeping alarm. My eyes are heavy as I try to open them under the clear, cold night sky, squinting at my watch for a look at the time…4:ooam. The thought crosses my mind, as it always does, ‘Do I leave my small down-filled world of warmth and comfort for the bitter, biting cold or tuck my head back inside and continue my pleasant dream?’ As I hear my partner rustle out of his bag I know that the decision is now out of my hands so I shed my sleeping arrangement and quickly dress before my body losses too much heat.
We don’t have much time to waste so we quietly load our climbing gear into the car and head down the road to the trailhead. As we drive with the heat cranked as high as it can go we munch on bars and snacks, trying to wash the dry food down with as much water as we can handle. We are packing light so the more we can eat and drink now, the better. Within minutes we arrive at the trailhead and after a quick trip to the bathroom we are on our way. I check my watch, 4:30am, right on schedule. Our objective is the summit of the Grand Teton via the Direct Exum Ridge, a true American classic, or at least that’s what everyone keeps telling me. Our goal is to do it in a day and after a summer of being cooped up in an office I am anxious to see how we do.
As we hike along I think about where I was this same time yesterday. I was just waking up next to my fiancé in my Bellingham Washington home. My things were already packed and ready to go when I met my good friend and fellow adventurer Andy at my back door. We threw my things into his trunk and were on our way in no time. Andy has an infectious energy and we are soon reminiscing of past climbs and dreaming of adventures to come. We watch the sun rise above the horizon and stretch it’s warm, glowing arms across the landscape. This is one of those simple things I enjoy so much in life, witnessing the earth wake up from it’s nightly slumber. I’m not a regular early riser so when I get the opportunity to watch this brilliant event I try to savor every moment.
“White Lightning”, Andy’s affectionate name for his hardy Toyota Camry, eats up the miles and the hours pass quickly. We take shifts driving towards our destination, Andy’s home state of Wyoming and that most famous of skylines, the Tetons. After 18 hours of driving we finally arrive at the national park and pull off the road to try and catch a glimpse at these beautiful peaks. We can barely make-out the numerous peaks against the black night sky but our excitement builds none-the-less. Even if we can’t see it clearly we know the Grand Teton is sitting proudly amongst its fellow mountains, beckoning to be climbed, and we hope to answer that call. We sleep in the driveway of one of Andy’s old acquaintances George, who happens to be one of the senior climbing guides for the park and lives inside the park among the rows of cabins inhabited by his fellow rangers.
The rocky trail brings my attention back to the present. We have headlamps on but keep them turned off. The bright moon provides enough light to avoid the majority of the rocks and roots but the trail still demands my attention. Our keep a good pace and are soon watching the sun rise (two days in a row, boy am I lucky!) across the Jackson Hole. This is my first time in the area and this new light soon reveals the incredibly beauty of this place.
Morning light shines on the southern Teton range; (from left) Cloudveil Dome, Spalding Peak, and Gilkey Tower. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom
The trail winds through forest, talus, and mountain streams, the whole time bringing us higher and higher. We pass climbers tents and soon reach the notch that divides the Grand and the Middle Teton. We have a great view of our route from here and stop for a moment to eat and drink while scouting the beginning of our climb. Our excitement pushes on onward and soon we are traversing the horizontal black dike that leads us to the base of the Exum Ridge.
The Exum Ridge follows (roughly) the right skyline. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom
Around 9am, after about 5,000 ft of elevation gain we finally arrive at the base of the Exum. Now the real fun begins. As this is a blog and I am running out of time until my deadline, I will let my photos tell the remainder of the story.
Leading the famous Black Face pitch. The angle steepens but the holds are all there and the climbing is incredible. Easily my favorite pitch of the ridge. Photo by Andy Farley
Andy enjoying all the Black Face has to offer. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom
Andy leading up the following pitch which we dubbed the crystal crack. The rock was unlike anything I had ever climbed on, with large quartz crystals peppering the rock. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom
Ahhh, what a view from the top. Photo by Dana Hickenbottom
Summit success! Now all we have to do is find the way down and get back to the car before our energy wears out. Photo courtesy of The Grand Teton
We made it to the summit of the Grand at about 2pm. After some celebratory photos and much needed nourishment we began our hurried descent. We teamed up with some other parties and combined ropes to make some longer rappels, putting us back at the notch within a couple hours. We've still got a long way to go back to the car so we don't linger too long. We watch the long shadows of the Tetons stretch across the valley as the sun sets and soon we find ourselves hiking in the dark once again. Exhaustion has set in and my legs are now on autopilot. Andy and I dream of the delicious dinner we will make once we return to the car. My headlamp is playing tricks with my surroundings and soon pine cones become giant beetles and roots are enormous snakes hiding in the brush. We are constantly convince ourselves that around every turn our car will be waiting, a dangerous and demoralizing game when all you want to do is sit in a nice comfy seat and fall asleep. Finally we round that last corner and see "White Lightning" waiting for us like a trusty steed. We made it back after 18 hours of constant movement and while we certainly won't be setting any speed records we are very proud of our effort. We drive back to George's cabin and eat ravenously until our stomachs are close to bursting and then settle once again into our sleeping bags once again. We are going to need our rest for tomorrow we head into the Cirque of the Towers in the Wind River Gorge.
Stay tuned for Part 2, The Cirque, in which I budget my time much more wisely and am able to offer a full written account of this incredible alpine playground.
-Dana Hickenbottom, AAI Program Coordinator and Guide
