Dynafit Bindings - What are They and How do They Work?

Backcountry skiing is becoming enormously popular in the mountain regions of the United States. Enthusiasts are demanding more from their ski equipment and in response, the ski industry has been constantly improving its products. Recently, bindings have become an important decision when purchasing a new alpine touring set-up. Consumers are looking for a binding that provides good control over the ski, lightweight, uphill efficiency, durability, and ease of use. Enter the Dynafit binding, a well-designed and lightweight binding choice with few limitations.

The original 1993 purple and pink model!

Dynafit bindings have gained popularity in the US after decades of development and use in Europe, mainly amongst ski mountaineer and randonee racers. In 1993 the Dynafit TLT type binding became the first available in North America. Today the company sells more than 13,000 pair a year and as many as 8 different models of bindings here in the US. Even after this type of popularity many new to the ski world have never seen this type of set-up.

The Dynafit TLT type binding with boot attached

After seeing my first pair of these bindings in use during a ski trip on the Haute Route of France I returned to the US sans my telemark bindings with my prized new Dynafit set-up. Simply put this binding offers the lightest option for ski touring and offers the downhill performance that most are looking for in the backcountry.

The Haute Route French and Swiss Alps

The Dynafit binding works by rather ingenious engineering. Unlike most AT (alpine touring) bindings that have a bar connecting the toe and heel plates, the Dynafit binding uses the entire boot to attach the two together through the rigid nature of plastic ski boots. This means that a specific Dynafit compatible boot is necessary for the system to be complete, where the toe and heel piece of the binding actually “prongs” itself into the boot. This eliminates much of the extra metal that would construct a binding made in the more classic downhill style.

The Fritshi Diamir type binding with a more classic alpine type construction

The Dynafit compatible boot. Notice the metal toe and heel inserts.

Dynafit products have some small limitations. These are really limited to only a few problems including the overall release mechanism which can be somewhat trigger happy if you are a super aggressive cliff jumper and bump skier. The binding can also not provide enough power for a skier to handle a super fat ski. So if you are looking for a binding and boot combination for super fat, big mountain heli-skis you might look elsewhere. In terms of tourability this is the right choice for the touring-minded backcountry skier. For more information on Dynafit bindings online check out wildsnow.com or give our backcountry skiing courses a try!

-- Ben Traxler, AAI Guide

February and March 2011

-- Feb 2 -- Bellevue, WA -- Public Meeting on Mount Rainier Fee Increase

-- Feb 4 -- Munising, Michigan -- Michigan Ice Fest

-- Feb 5 -- Mammoth, CA -- (Ski Mountaineering) Mammoth Chase  

-- Feb 12-13 -- Alpental, WA -- VertFest sponsored by OR

-- Feb 12 -- Seattle, WA -- Northwest Collegiate Climbing Challenge (UW)

-- Feb 18 - 21-- Cody, WY -- 13th Annual "Waterfall Ice" Fest

-- Feb 26 -- Seattle, WA -- AAC Annual Benefit and Awards Dinner

-- March 12 -- Charleston, SC -- Palmetto Pump and USA Climbing Comp

Red Rock Rendezvous....Don't forget that there is a lot going on in Las Vegas in mid to late March. Following is a quick breakdown of everything that is happening:

• March 12-15 -- Learn to Lead: An Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership
• March 12-14 -- AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course
• March 14-17 -- Basic Rock Camp
• March 15-16 -- AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Exam 
• March 17      -- Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour in Las Vegas
• March 18-20 -- Red Rock Rendezvous
• March 21-24 -- Basic Rock Camp
• March 22-25 -- Learn to Lead: An Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership

 

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!

Learning how to do a 360 is all about trial by error, right?  Watch this lesson and learn!



Now that you know how to do a 360, maybe you can analyze this skier's technique:



Here's another quick lesson on how to pull off a 360:



But do we really trust this guy's advice?  He is in a knee brace and all...
You never know, maybe he taught this next guy?



Now get out there and have fun!

-Katy Pfannenstein
Program Coordinator

Haute Route

I hadn't heard of the Haute Route before I started working here. It turns out it is one of the most beautiful hikes (or it can be done as a ski tour) in Europe. It's an easy life going from hut-to-hut with only a daypack as you make the 11-day journey near Chamonix, France, to Zermatt, Switzerland.

Here's some proof. Check out these photos from AAI guide Jeff Ries. He shot these earlier this summer on a recent trip:

AAI trekkers enjoy amazing views of the Lesser Combin on day 5 of this Julys Swiss trek.

A great view of the impressive Moiry icefall greets the Swiss.

The Matterhorn welcomes trekkers at the end of the trip in Zermatt.

-Dyan Padagas, Program Coordinator

Retrievable Fixed Line

Canyoneering tricks are often extremely applicable to rock and alpine climbing. The little trick featured in this video could easily be used by a party setting up a toprope on a sketchy edge or -- as in the video -- by a party rigging a rappel on a weird lip.

This technique is most applicable with a larger group that needs a fixed line. With a small group, the first climber could just belay the second climber down to him after building the anchor.

The crux of this trick is played out in the video very quickly. Watch closely at the 1:50 second mark.



I'm not sure that I'm all that excited about the ratty sling and the quicklink shown in the video. Before committing to anything, it's really important to make sure that your anchor is completely solid.

In review, the steps are as follows:

1. Belayer belays climber out to edge.
2. Climber at edge builds an anchor and fixes the line.
3. The climber at the top converts the line by running it through the quicklink and clipping a carabiner to a clove-hitch on the backside. This could also be done by running the rope around a tree or a boulder. If you do it through a tree or a boulder, be sure that there isn't too much friction and that the line could still be retrieved.
4. Once the line is fixed on both ends, a climber could clip in with a sling to a carabiner to descend or the climber could put a friction hitch on the rope. A friction hitch would provide a higher level of security.
5. Only one person should move on the fixed line at once.
6. The last person will bring down the backside of the fixed line, the end that is not running through the quicklink.
7. Once the rope is released from the anchor, it will be able to be easily pulled down.

--Jason D. Martin

The Ethics of Leaving Fixed Ropes, Caches, and Draws

The ethics of leaving gear in the mountains or at the crag is complex. Some might consider anything left behind anywhere, akin to abandoning gear. Indeed, some National Parks and the Bureau of Land Management identify any gear left behind for any reason at all as abandoned.

So under these draconian policies, if you leave a tent up on a mountain, hike down to your car to do a resupply, and then bring your food back up, a ranger could decide that you've abandoned your tent. And while resupplying is not a common tactic, it definitely happens to some extent in every mountain range in the country.

There are three tactics that climbers regularly employ that require them to leave equipment unattended for -- potentially -- extended periods of time. These include fixed ropes, caches, and fixed draws. And unfortunately, not every climber is educated on the ethics of these issues, so sometimes gear is stolen.

Aid climbers commonly fix lines on big walls. They will climb as high as they can, fix ropes and then rappel to the ground and return to camp. Their ropes will remain fixed in position. The following day, they will climb up the rope with mechanical ascenders to reattain their high point. These lines are regularly unattended at night and sometimes during the day.  Obviously, these climbers are trusting that the equipment will not only be there when they return, but also that nobody will have messed with it creating a dangerous situation.

Mountaineers fix lines on steep and exposed snow or ice slopes. These types of ropes tend to be set-up by guides or by large expeditions that need to get a lot of people through a dangerous section quickly. Fixed ropes in a mountaineering setting are almost always left on popular trade routes that require them. However, occasionally a person will leave a fixed line on a less popular route to help facilitate quick movement early in the morning.

A Fixed Hand-Line Employed by Guides to Assist Beginners on Exposed Terrain

Photo by Jason Martin

There are numerous places throughout the country where fixed lines have been left permanently to help facilitate safe movement. Most of the areas where such ropes have been left don't provide many other alternatives.  Some of these are employed on sketchy rock sections, but others are used to bypass steep mud

Occasionally, large groups will set short fixed lines at cragging areas to help beginners safely move up and down a sketchy section. Unlike the other examples, these lines are unlikely to ever be left unattended for more than a couple of hours.

Obviously in every example, the loss of a fixed line could result in a dangerous situation. It's pretty unlikely that somebody straight-out abandoned a rope in decent shape that is clearly tied off for a reason...

In many mountaineering and expeditionary settings, a food or gear cache is an important part of a team's strategy. Commonly these cache's are buried in the snow and marked with wands or an avalanche probe. If such a cache were to disappear, it could mean the end of an expedition...it could also be very dangerous for those who were expecting it to be in place.

It is the responsibility of those who employ the use of fixed lines and caches to clean them up when they are done. If they don't, this creates a negative impression about climbers with land managers and the public. If land managers know who abandoned a cache (in a place like Denali National Park), they will impose a fine.  Additionally, climbers who permanently leave these types of things behind provide a better argument for the ethically challenged to steal your cache or your fixed line. 

A Climber Confronts the Thief Responsible for Stealing Draws Off His Route in Smith Rock State Park
Photo by Ian Caldwell

Many high-end climbers (5.11-5.15 climbers) regularly employ the use of fixed draws on their projects.  In other words, they leave draws fixed on hard bolted sport climbs so that they can easily come back in order to continue working on the ascent of their routes.  Many sport climbers will come back to the same climb over and over again, sometimes logging weeks or even months, working to successfully complete their climbs.

This technique of "working" a climb used to be looked-down upon, but has become the norm for people trying to climb very difficult routes. The technically hardest rock climbs in the world are now regularly being climbed this way.

The issue with this technique is that it is now common for climbing draws to be almost permanently left on hard climbs. There are two problems with this. First, some land managers don't like the nearly permanent installation of these draws. And second, the fact that these draws have been left behind provides a major temptation to individuals who don't know any better and for thieves.

In the Winter of 2010, three climbers confronted an individual who was systematically stripping draws off of hard climbs at Smith Rock State Park. Instead of physically attacking the individual for stealing draws, the climbers kept level heads and educated the individual about what he was doing and how it affected them. Luckily for the climbing community, these climbers elected to film the confrontation for educational purposes. A video of the incident can be seen below:


Picnic Lunch Wall Draw Thief from Ian Caldwell on Vimeo.

There are many climbers out there who don't like the fact that there are bolts in the rock. And there are many climbers out there who really don't like the fact the bolts have draws permanently affixed to them.  But when all is said and done, regardless of your beliefs about this issue, if you know that the draws have been set to assist in a climber's ascent, then taking them is stealing.

There is controversy around each of these three topics.  But fixed lines, caches and fixed draws are an important part of many climbers experiences and it is important to respect those who choose to employ such tactics as long as they do it in a way that is in line with a local climbing area's ethics.

--Jason D. Martin

January and February Climbing Events

-- Jan 27 -- Seattle, WA -- Altitude Illness Seminar 

-- Jan 27 -- Bellingham, WA -- The Biology and Ecology of Winter Tracking: Wolverine Behavior and Track Identification. For more information about this event, please contact Dave Moskowitz by phone 425-891-4745 or email davem@wildernessawareness.org. 

-- Jan 29 -- Truckee, CA --  Lost Trail Lodge Ice Climbing

-- Feb 4 -- Munising, Michigan -- Michigan Ice Fest

-- Feb 5 -- Mammoth, CA -- (Ski Mountaineering) Mammoth Chase  

-- Feb 12-13 -- Alpental, WA -- VertFest sponsored by OR

-- Feb 12 -- Seattle, WA -- Northwest Collegiate Climbing Challenge (UW)

-- Feb 18 - 21-- Cody, WY -- 13th Annual "Waterfall Ice" Fest

-- Feb 26 -- Seattle, WA -- AAC Annual Benefit and Awards Dinner

FOR MARCH: Red Rock Rendezvous....Don't forget that there is a lot going on in Las Vegas in mid to late March. Following is a quick breakdown of everything that is happening:

• March 12-15 -- Learn to Lead: An Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership
• March 12-14 -- AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course
• March 14-17 -- Basic Rock Camp
• March 15-16 -- AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Exam 
• March 17      -- Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour in Las Vegas
• March 18-20 -- Red Rock Rendezvous
• March 21-24 -- Basic Rock Camp
• March 22-25 -- Learn to Lead: An Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership

 

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!!

Well, this weekend warrior's videos will bring you back to the 80's.  Pull your neon track suits, your tights and your high-tops out of the back of the closet and dance along to the following videos...



The next one will be sure to get you moving!



Grab those music tapes, dust them off and ski this weekend to your favorite oldies- but- goodies! I know exactly where my Paula Abdul tape is, now I just have to find it...

-Katy Pfannenstein
Program Coordinator

Book Review: The Sandstone Spine

I have attended the Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour a dozen times.  And every time there is a spectacular story about a person or a group of people that go on an epic adventure.  Commonly those on the trip are participating in an adventure outside my expertise.  For example, they decide to kayak from Australia to New Zealand, or they bike across China, or they walk across Australia...

These phenomenal films taught me that not every adventure has to revolve around climbing and/or skiing.  Indeed, adventure merely needs to be something that inspires you, no matter the medium.

It was with this in mind that I picked up The Sandstone Spine by David Roberts with photography by Greg Child.  Roberts is well-known for his mountain writing.  He has authored or co-authored seventeen books on climbing, adventure, and the history of the American Southwest. His articles have appeared in numerous magazines and journals, including National Geographic, National Geographic Adventure, the New York Times and The Atlantic Monthly.

Greg Child is a well-known mountaineer and author.  The Australian-born climber has tested his metal in every venue including on 5.13 routes, A5 big walls and on Himalayan peaks like Everest and K2.  He is a North Face athlete, an Outside Magazine contributor, and was responsible for the award-winning climbing tome, Postcards from the Ledge.  Additionally, Child has repeatedly been an athlete at Red Rock Rendezvous, an event that the American Alpine Institute is heavily involved with.

Roberts and Child joined forces with Vaughn Hadenfeldt, a local wilderness guide, to make the first complete traverse of the 100-mile long Comb Ridge in one continuous push.  The Comb is literally a Sandstone Spine that slices out deep into the Arizona desert, starting just east of Kayenta.

The sandstone ridge is comprised of thousands of rock spires, turrets and jagged teeth and is home to hundreds of Anasazi and Navajo ruins.  Ancient cliff-dwellings and petroglyphs dominate the route from the start to the finish.  As does difficult and dry terrain.

While each of the three men were world-class adventurers at the start of their trip, none of them were spring chickens.  At ages 61, 53, and 47, the trio's adventure had a different taste than many of those that are commonly written about in the magazines and journals.  Each of them were at that point in their lives that society likes to refer to as "middle-age."  And in many ways, their adventure along the Comb took place at three levels.  On the top level, it's the story of three friends on a great adventure.  On the second level, it's the story of the Anasazi, natives who disappeared hundreds of years ago.  And at the third level, it's the story of middle-aged angst among the men.

Roberts is an excellent adventure writer.  He does a wonderful job of weaving the different parts of the narrative together.  At one moment we are on the Comb with the three men, worrying about water; and in the next we are with Mormon missionaries, trying to find a way through the steep and unforgiving desert landscape.  Books like this are the reason that I read adventure narratives.  They are striking and engrossing stories.

At the American Alpine Institute we run trips in a handful of desert environments. We do trips at the foot of the Eastern Sierra, just outside Death Valley.  We run trips in Joshua Tree National Park.  And we run trips in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.  Sometimes in the heat of climbing a route, we forget that we weren't the first people to discover the area, that people have been traveling beneath our lines and routes for years.  Ultimately, Roberts' book gives us both a taste of what we love to do -- go on adventures -- as well as a taste of the history of these beautiful places.  There is no better combination...

--Jason D. Martin

National Park Service Invites Public to Fairbanks Open House on Denali/Foraker Mountaineering Fee

The American Alpine Institute just received the following email from Denali National Park:

The National Park Service (NPS) is holding an open house in Fairbanks on Friday, January 28 as part of the public involvement process examining approaches to recover more of the cost of the mountaineering program in Denali National Park and Preserve. The open house is taking place from 5:00 – 7:30 p.m. at the Morris Thompson Cultural & Visitors Center (in the classroom) located at 101 Dunkel Street.

Beginning at 6:00 p.m., Denali staff will give a 30-40 minute presentation on the mountaineering program and fee. Official public testimony will not be taken during the open house, but park staff will be available before and after the presentation to provide additional information and answer questions.

Currently each climber of Mt. McKinley and Mt. Foraker pays a cost recovery mountaineering use fee of $200. Income from this special use fee helps fund some of the cost of the mountaineering program, including preventative search and rescue (PSAR) education, training for rescue personnel, positioning of patrol/rescue personnel (including volunteers) at critical high altitude locations on the mountain, the CMC (human waste) program, and administrative support. Since the cost recovery fee was implemented in
1995, the number of fatalities and major injuries has decreased significantly. This is directly attributable to the increased educational and PSAR efforts made possible through the cost recovery program.

When the special use fee was initially established it covered approximately 30% of the cost of this specialized program. Even though the fee was increased from $150 to $200 in 2005, current fee revenue only covers 17% of the cost. McKinley/Foraker climbers make up less than 1⁄2 of 1 percent of the park’s visitors, and in 2011 Denali will expend approximately $1,200 in direct support of each permitted climber. The average cost per visitor for all other visitors is approximately $37. In recent years, the park has diverted funds from other critical park programs in order to fully fund the mountaineering program.

The NPS is seeking ideas regarding two key questions:

1. Is the current mountaineering program the most cost effective, efficient and safe program we can devise? 

1. How much of the cost should be recovered from users, and what options are there for how those costs can be distributed? 

Comments from the public will be accepted through January 31, 2011. Comments may be submitted via email to: DENA_mountainfeecomments@nps.gov or faxed to (907) 683-9612. They may also be sent to: Superintendent, Denali National Park and Preserve, P.O. Box 9, Denali Park, AK 99755.

Additional information on the mountaineering program and the mountaineering special use fee is available on the park website at www. nps.gov/dena.

Why YOU should go to Bolivia!

The Bolivia trip I did last year was truly a life changing trip.  Its likely I will be going back to Bolivia this year and I wanted to post some photos to show you why Bolivia really is one of the best trips a person who enjoys the outdoors can do.

To start with Bolivia is safe.  I travel everywhere with a lot of expensive camera equipment, and Bolivia last year was no exception.  The first couple of days I left it all in my room rather than carry it around, because I was worried about having it stolen.  On day three I realized that even in Bolivia's biggest city there was a surprisingly small amount of crime.  To put it simply, if you use common sense in La Paz you are likely safer than you would be in any major American city.  The people are kind warm friendly and honest.  No one on our trip had anything stolen or heard of anyone having things stolen.  This does not mean we were careless, but I was no more careful here than I would be North America.

Bolivia is cheap.  When I say cheap what I mean is once you get there it is really inexpensive to buy things.  If you are willing to eat street food then you can get lunch for a lot less than a dollar.  A good dinner at a very nice restaurant is likely $10.  Hotels are also a  good deal and there are plenty of hotels that would meet that standards of North America for cleanliness and comfort. 

Bolivia is Beautiful.  I don't need to say anything here.  Just look at the photos.

Bolivia is fun.  The people of Bolivia are some of the happiest people I have met.  They add to the enjoyment of what would be a great vacation anyway.  La Paz is a big city and the night life is a blast!  Great bars, great restaurants and great clubs. 

Bolivia has great trekking.  Just look at the photos.

Bolivia has great climbing.

So sign up for a Bolivia trip on the AAI website and join me in the country I have fallen in love with.

http://aai.cc/Programs/Location/South-America/

See you there!

--Alasdair Turner, AAI Instructor and Guide

New Rope Technology

In 2001, I was climbing a big wall in Zion National Park with two of our former guides.  Prodigal Son is an "easy" aid route that ascends the Northeast Face of Angels Landing.  As it was late in the Fall and it was getting dark early, we elected to fix the first aid pitches and then complete the ascent to the top on the following day.

On the second day of the climb we made our way to the base of the wall in the dark.  The approach was not pleasant.  We had to forge the freezing Virgin River at 5am.  And then we each began to jug the fixed lines with mechanical ascenders.

For some reason, I was the last person to climb the ropes.  As I climbed up the second rope, dawn was breaking and it was much easier to see.  And what I saw was terrifying...

Near the top of the second line, there was a hint of white peaking through a seriously damaged rope sheath.  The line was core shot.  And I was below the damage!

I quickly climbed through the damaged section of rope and clipped into the anchor.  Safe.

Three of us climbed up that rope on jumars.  The bouncing motion of our movement and the dynamic nature of the rope caused it to repeatedly rub on the sandstone, allowing the coarse stone to saw through the sheath.

Ultimately, we finished the wall.  But that particular incident has stuck with me for years.  Indeed, it has made me extremely cautious while aid climbing and constantly concerned about sharp edges while free climbing.

Recently the rope manufacturer Beal, revealed a new technology that they are calling Uni Core.  The concept is that the core and the sheath are integrated and that it will be much harder for rope damage to have a catastrophic effect.

The following video is pretty convincing: 



Certainly the catastrophic effect of the knife on the rope would have been mitigated by knots in the rope.  Aid climbers on jumars are taught to knot the rope as they climb for just such a possibility.  And indeed, in my situation back in Zion, had the sheath completely come apart, I would have been shaken up, but okay.  I had placed knots in the rope.

I haven't used one of these ropes yet and have no idea how well they handle.  But as this is a major jump in rope safety, I thought it important to discuss it here.

To learn more about Uni Core and the new Beal Rope, click here.

To read a discussion on these new ropes, read the thread at supertopo.com.

--Jason D. Martin

January and February Climbing Events

-- Jan 17 -- Seattle, WA -- Denali NP Open House Meeting On Climbing Fees

-- Jan 18 -- Golden, CO -- Denali NP Open House Meeting On Climbing Fees

-- Jan 20 -- Portland, OR -- Telluride Mountain Film Fest

-- Jan 22 -- Bellingham, WA -- Northwest Collegiate Climbing Challenge (WWU)

-- Jan 27 -- Seattle, WA -- Altitude Illness Seminar

-- Jan 29 -- Truckee, CA --  Lost Trail Lodge Ice Climbing

-- Feb 4 -- Munising, Michigan -- Michigan Ice Fest

-- Feb 5 -- Mammoth, CA -- (Ski Mountaineering) Mammoth Chase  

-- Feb 12-13 -- Alpental, WA -- VertFest sponsored by OR

-- Feb 12 -- Seattle, WA -- Northwest Collegiate Climbing Challenge (UW)

-- Feb 18 - 21-- Cody, WY -- 13th Annual "Waterfall Ice" Fest

-- Feb 26 -- Seattle, WA -- AAC Annual Benefit and Awards Dinner

FOR MARCH: Red Rock Rendezvous....Don't forget that there is a lot going on in Las Vegas in mid to late March. Following is a quick breakdown of everything that is happening:

• March 12-15 -- Learn to Lead: An Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership
• March 12-14 -- AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course
• March 14-17 -- Basic Rock Camp
• March 15-16 -- AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Exam 
• March 17      -- Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour in Las Vegas
• March 18-20 -- Red Rock Rendezvous
• March 21-24 -- Basic Rock Camp
• March 22-25 -- Learn to Lead: An Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership

 

Weekend Warrior - Videos to Get You Stoked!!!

Since the avalanche danger this weekend is at the EXTREME level (check out Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center) in the Cascades, please be cautious while traveling out in the backcountry. 

For your viewing pleasure, here's a video showing how Steven's Pass, WA, controls the avalache danger at the ski area. 



With the avy danger so high, folks will be looking for ways to get out and entertain themselves.  The next video clip shows folks jumping the road gap at Mt. Baker. 

On average 37 people are killed each year by avalanches in the United States alone. Almost all of these avalanches are started by the people caught in them. Some basic level or training and knowledge can dramatically increase your margin of safety while traveling in the backcountry.  At the American Alpine Institute, we offer AIARIE Avalanche Courses where we will teach you what to look for in the snow pack, how to test stability, how to read terrain and avoid danger zones, and how to rescue yourself and partners if caught in an avalanche.  There is room available in our classes, so register  online today!  

-Katy Pfannenstein

Program Coordinator

Route Profile: Epinephrine

Many climbers consider Red Rock Canyon's Epinephrine (5.9 IV+) to be one of the best routes of its grade in the world. With over fifteen pitches of climbing, Epinephrine is a phenomenal route that places one in an incredible position high above the Black Velvet Canyon.

The chimneys on Epinephrine are behind the pillar at the bottom of the wall.
Photo by Greg Barnes from supertopo.com

Many look at the moderate 5.9 grade and believe that this route will be a walk in the park. The reality is that Epi -- as the locals call it -- is a route that includes significant difficulties that one doesn't often encounter on a regular day out at the crags. Indeed, the route is known for one major feature: a long 5.9 chimney system.

The first third of Epinephrine is dominated by chimneys. These chimneys are incredibly smooth inside. Some have even equated them to glass. It often feels that the inch at a time gains inside the chimneys might be lost at any moment from a mild slip or fall. Difficult passage inside the chimneys are exacerbated by the fact that the route is so big that a pack is absolutely necessary. To move through the chimneys one must drag their pack between their legs.

Climbing the Chimneys on Epinephrine
Video by Richard Draves

A climber in a chimney on Epinephrine.
Photo by Richard Draves

Once the first third of the route is completed, the difficulties ease, but there is still over a thousand feet to climb. The second third of the route ascends an exposed headwall which drops off nearly a thousand feet. There is a great deal of 5.9 terrain in this section of the climb, but the climbing feels significantly easier than that of the chimneys. The 5.9 climbing in the central part of the route is "normal" 5.9. In other words, it feels like any 5.9 that one might find on one of the shorter routes in Red Rock. This section goes significantly faster than the first section.

The last third of the route climbs a massive mid-fifth class ramp. One climbs pitch after pitch after pitch of easy terrain that slowly allows altitude to be attained. Finally after traversing an exposed tree ledge, one finds himself at the base of an easy scramble which leads to the top of Velvet Peak.

Red Rock Canyon is famous for its moderate (5.6-5.9) multi-pitch routes. There are literally hundreds of them. At the upper end of moderate climbing, Epinephrine stands out as a spectacular and unforgettable adventure.

Great Links for Information about Epinephrine:
Supertopo Beta (Best Route Topo)
AAI Epinephrine Trip Report
Los Alamos Mountaineers Trip Report
Team Jammies Trip Report
Trip Report from Tradgirl.com
Camp4 Trip Report

--Jason D. Martin

NPS Open Forum on Denali Fee Increases

The American Alpine Institute just received the following email from the Access Fund:

Denali National Park proposes to raise mountaineering fees 150% from $200 to $500 per climber. As part of the public involvement process prior to making a decision, the National Park Service is hosting two open houses in January to provide information on Denali’s mountaineering program and how the special mountaineering fee is used.

Representatives from the Access Fund, American Alpine Club, and American Mountain Guides Association are concerned that the 150% mountaineering fee increase at Denali is unnecessary and unfair, and are looking for ways to cut mountaineering program costs and generate alternative sources of revenue to limit a dramatic fee increase. In these tough economic times, such an unprecedented mountaineering fee increase may price Americans out of their own National Parks, including the world-class climbing on Denali.

Now is the time to learn more about how this proposed fee increase affects you. Attend an upcoming National Park Service open house in your area and voice your opinions:

Seattle, WA
Monday, January 17 - 6:00 - 8:00 p.m.
REI Flagship Store,
222 Yale Ave. N
Seattle, Washington

Golden, CO
Tuesday, January 18 - 6:00 - 8:00 p.m.
American Mountaineering Center
710 10th St.
Golden, Colorado

Denali National Park staff will give one 30-40 minute presentation on the mountaineering program and fee at each open house. The park states that “official public testimony will not be taken,” but staff will be available before and after the presentation to provide information and answer questions.

The NPS is seeking input and ideas regarding two key questions:

1) Is the current mountaineering program the most cost effective, efficient and safe program we can devise?

2) How much of the cost should be recovered from users, and what options are there for how those costs can be distributed?

We hope to see you there, making your voice heard!

Thanks,

Your Friends at the Access Fund

As you know, we have been covering this for some time.  To learn more about this fee increase and what you can do about it, click here.

Jason D. Martin

The Ice Bollard

Steep snow or ice can be descended two ways. A climber could downclimb the terrain or he could rappel. Rappelling is always a dangerous option as a lot can go wrong...but in the mountains, sometimes the speed of rappelling is safer than downclimbing.

AAI Guide Kevin Hogan Rappels Off of an Ice Bollard

In hard frozen snow or on ice, one option is to create a bollard. A bollard is essentially a tear-drop shaped pillar that is cut into a frozen surface with an ice axe adze. The rope is then wrapped around the bollard for the rappel. Once the rappel is completed, the climber can simply pull the rope.

Bollards are not the strongest anchors available, but they are quick and effective. If you choose to use a bollard, it is important to do two things. Back them up and reset the rope after each rappel.

An Ice Bollard loosely Backed-Up by an Ice Screw

To back-up a bollard, create the bollard and then preset the rope. Place a piece of snow protection (e.g. a picket buried as a deadman) and then loosely clip a sling to both the piece and to the rope. Once this is set-up, the heaviest person with the heaviest pack should rappel first. The theory is that if the heaviest person with the heaviest pack doesn't blow out the bollard, then a lighter person should be able to remove the back-up piece and safely rappel.

To reset the rope after each rappel, simply treat the rope like dental floss. Pull on each end of the rope once your down. Resetting the rope like this will ensure that it doesn't freeze into place and get permanately stuck.

An Ice Bollard backed-up by an Ice Screw

Snow and ice bollards are a quick and effective style of anchoring that avoids leaving trash -- or expensive gear -- behind. Practice with this style of rappel anchor will lead to a solid and safe understanding as to how one should employ them effectively...

--Jason D. Martin

Red Rock Rendezvous - March 18-20, 2011

The Red Rock Rendezvous is nearly upon us. And once again, the American Alpine Institute will be working with Mountain Gear to make the event a success.

Along with all of the big name athletes that are brought in for the event, our guides will be running clinics throughout Rendezvous. Michael Powers, Paul Ivaska, Aiden Loehr, Kurt Hicks, Richard Riquelme, Angela Seidling, Ian McEleney, Kristen Looper, Scott Massey, Kevin Hogan, Cliff Palmer, Lyle Haugsven, Tom Kirby, Mary Harlin, Erin Smart and yours truly, Jason Martin, will all be on hand assisting with the event and doing everything that we can to make it the best climbing festival of the year.

If you're already visiting Red Rock Rendezvous, don't forget that there is  a lot going on in Las Vegas in mid to late March. Following is a quick breakdown of everything that is happening:

• March 12-15 -- Learn to Lead: An Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership
• March 12-14 -- AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course
• March 14-17 -- Basic Rock Camp
• March 15-16 -- AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Exam 
• March 17      -- Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour in Las Vegas
• March 18-20 -- Red Rock Rendezvous
• March 21-24 -- Basic Rock Camp
• March 22-25 -- Learn to Lead: An Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership

In addition to all of the events going on around Red Rock Rendezvous, don't forget that AAI will have all of our best guides available for private guiding and instruction in Red Rock Canyon. To learn more, send us an email at info@aai.cc or give us a call at 360-671-1505.

--Jason D. Martin

January and February Climbing Events

-- Jan 6-9 -- Ouray, CO -- Ouray Ice Fest

-- Jan 7 -- Golden, CO -- AAC Sun Valley Dinner

-- Jan 15-16 -- Green Bay, WI -- Ice Pit Festival 

-- Jan 17 -- Seattle, WA -- Denali NP Open House Meeting On Climbing Fees

-- Jan 18 -- Golden, CO -- Denali NP Open House Meeting On Climbing Fees

-- Jan 11-25 -- Tanzania -- Climb to Fight Breast Cancer

-- Jan 13 -- Seattle, WA -- Travel Medicine Seminar 

-- Jan 14 -- Nevada City, CA --  Wild and Scenic Film Festival

-- Jan 20 -- Portland, OR -- Telluride Mountain Film Fest

-- Jan 22 -- Bellingham, WA -- Northwest Collegiate Climbing Challenge (WWU)

-- Jan 27 -- Seattle, WA -- Altitude Illness Seminar

-- Jan 29 -- Truckee, CA --  Lost Trail Lodge Ice Climbing

-- Feb 4 -- Munising, Michigan -- Michigan Ice Fest

-- Feb 5 -- Mammoth, CA -- (Ski Mountaineering) Mammoth Chase  

-- Feb 12-13 -- Alpental, WA -- VertFest sponsored by OR

-- Feb 12 -- Seattle, WA -- Northwest Collegiate Climbing Challenge (UW)

-- Feb 18 - 21-- Cody, WY -- 13th Annual "Waterfall Ice" Fest

-- Feb 26 -- Seattle, WA -- AAC Annual Benefit and Awards Dinner

FOR MARCH: Red Rock Rendezvous....Don't forget that there is a lot going on in Las Vegas in mid to late March. Following is a quick breakdown of everything that is happening:

• March 12-15 -- Learn to Lead: An Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership
• March 12-14 -- AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course
• March 14-17 -- Basic Rock Camp
• March 15-16 -- AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Exam 
• March 17      -- Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour in Las Vegas
• March 18-20 -- Red Rock Rendezvous
• March 21-24 -- Basic Rock Camp
• March 22-25 -- Learn to Lead: An Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership

 

Weekend Warrior - Videos To Get You Stoked!

Anyone who has skied the at the Mt. Baker Ski Area, has probably dreamed of skiing the massive glaciated peak that looms over the slopes.  At 9,127 feet, Mt. Shuksan is one of the taller non-volcanic peaks in Washington, and is the most photographed mountains in the world.  One look at it will explain why, regardless of its ease of access.  Here is a great video from some people who skied Mt. Shuksan, something we would be happy to help you do!




--Andrew Yasso, Program Coordinator

Denali NPS Invites Public to January Open Houses on Mountaineering Fee

The American Alpine Institute just received the following email from Denali National Park:

The National Park Service (NPS) is examining approaches to recover more of the cost of the mountaineering program in Denali National Park and Preserve. As part of the public involvement process, the NPS is holding two public open houses in January to provide information on the mountaineering program and how the special mountaineering use fee is utilized. The cities, dates, locations, and times of the open houses are:

• Seattle, Washington – Monday, January 17, REI Flagship Store, 222 Yale Ave. N, 6:00 – 9:00 p.m.

• Golden, Colorado – Tuesday, January 18, American Mountaineering Center, 710 10th St., 6:00 – 9:00 p.m.

At 7:00 p.m. Denali staff will give one 30-40 minute presentation on the mountaineering program and fee at each open house. Official public testimony will not be taken, but park staff will be available before and after the presentation to provide information and answer questions.

Currently each climber of Mt. McKinley and Mt. Foraker pays a cost recovery mountaineering use fee of $200. Income from this special use fee helps fund some of the cost of the mountaineering program, including preventative search and rescue (PSAR) education, training for rescue personnel, positioning of patrol/rescue personnel (including volunteers) at critical high altitude locations on the mountain, the CMC (human waste) program, and administrative support. Since the cost recovery fee was implemented in 1995, the number of fatalities and major injuries has decreased significantly. This is directly attributable to the increased educational and PSAR efforts made possible through the cost recovery program.

When the special use fee was initially established it covered approximately 30% of the cost of this specialized program. Even though the fee was increased from $150 to $200 in 2005, current fee revenue only covers 17% of the cost. McKinley/Foraker climbers make up less than 1⁄2 of 1 percent of the park’s visitors, and in 2011 Denali will expend approximately $1,200 in direct support of each permitted climber. The average cost for all other visitors is expected to be about $37. In recent years, the park has diverted funds from other critical park programs in order to fully fund the mountaineering program. This has negatively impacted funding available for interpretation, wildlife protection, resource management, and maintenance.

The NPS is seeking input and ideas regarding two key questions:     

1. Is the current mountaineering program the most cost effective efficient and safe program we can devise?
2. How much of the cost should be recovered from users, and what options are there for how those costs can be distributed?

Comments from the public will be accepted through January 31, 2011.  Comments may be submitted via email to: DENA_mountainfeecomments@nps.gov or faxed to (907) 683-9612. They may also be sent to: Superintendent, Denali National Park and Preserve, P.O. Box 9, Denali Park, AK 99755.

For additional information on the mountaineering program or the cost recovery special use fee visit the park website at www. nps.gov/dena. If you have questions about the fee you may contact Chief Ranger Pete Armington at (907) 683-9521 or peter_armington@nps.gov. Media inquiries should be directed to Public Affairs Officer Kris Fister at (907) 683-9583 or kris_fister@nps.gov.

We have been covering this particular issue for some period of time.  To learn more about this issue and how to respond to it, please click here.

--Jason D. Martin

Wilderness Navigation - An Overview

There are many parts to wilderness navigation, but four tools stand out as being the most important.  First, a good topographical map.  Second, a compass.  Third, an altimeter.  And fourth a GPS unit.   Each of these items is a complex tool that takes a great deal of time and energy to use effectively.

The following video, made by the owner of Midwest Mountaineering, Rod Johnson, is a brief overview of the components required for successful wilderness navigation.

The map, the compass, the altimeter and the GPS must all be used in conjunction to one another.  A climber should never depend solely on one of these items, but must practice using them as complimentary tools.

The best time to practice with navigation tools is when you need them the least.  When the weather is good and it is possible to see everything, then there is little need for these.  But when the weather is good, it is also possible to see what real-life features look like on a map. Understanding what the real-world looks like vs. the world in a white-out when you are completely reliant on your understanding of your tools is incredibly important.  If you can get your systems worked out in perfect weather, then you'll be ready for it when things are less than perfect...

--Jason D. Martin

Public Scoping - Summit-at-Snoqualmie Development

The American Alpine Institute just received the following email from Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest:

Dear Interested Party:

The Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest is initiating an environmental analysis required by the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) in response to a proposal for new projects in the Summit-at-Snoqualmie ski area. The ski area is permitted to CNL Income Snoqualmie, LLC and operated by Ski Lifts, Inc., who submitted the proposal. The environmental analysis will analyze and disclose the potential impacts of amending the ski area’s master development plan (MDP). The proposed amendment includes the relocation and construction of a previously approved guest services building at the Silver Fir base. It also includes the construction of a parking lot, and the grooming of three different ski trails. These projects are described below in the Proposed Action section and are illustrated in the enclosed figures.

The Summit-at-Snoqualmie ski area is located on Snoqualmie Pass in the Cascade Mountain Range of western Washington, approximately 25 miles east of North Bend, Washington. The Summit-at-Snoqualmie Special Use Permit Area encompasses approximately 1,834 acres of National Forest System (NFS) lands. These acres are on the Snoqualmie Ranger District of the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest and Cle Elum Ranger District of the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forests.

NEPA Process

MDPs are a requirement for ski areas permitted to operate on National Forest System lands, as stipulated in their permits.  They are intended to demonstrate the ability of a ski area to serve the needs of the recreating public, justify the commitment of National Forest System resources in the permit area, and assist the Forest Service and the ski area in long-range (10 to 15 years) planning of how best to invest in capital improvements. The current master development plan (The Summit-at-Snoqualmie Master Development Plan Proposal Final Environmental Impact Statement, September 2008) was accepted by the Forest, and projects affecting National Forest System resources were approved, in a Record of Decision (ROD) issued on October 21, 2008.  The MDP reflected Ski Lifts, Inc.’s views on long-term development at the ski area at that time.  

Given the complex and dynamic setting within which ski areas operate, it is necessary to amend and update MDPs over time.  In fact, one of the projects included in this proposal was approved in the 2008 ROD but has been modified due to changed conditions or new information.  The Forest Service has accepted an MDP amendment proposal submitted by Ski Lifts, Inc. in April 2010.  The proposal identified two projects that the ski area hopes to implement over the next three years.  These projects are described in detail below. 

Purpose and Need for Action

The purpose and need for action are based on the existing conditions at The Summit-at-Snoqualmie and the desired conditions that lead to a proposed action.  The purpose and need has two elements:

1.        There is a need for guest services in a location that provides a convenient, safe, and accessible recreation experience to ski users.

A 19,818 square foot expansion of the existing outpost at the Silver Fir base area was approved under the Summit-at-Snoqualmie Master Development Plan Proposal Record of Decision (2008). The existing location of the outpost is inferior because it is inconvenient and creates a public safety hazard. Guests are required to leave the ski run, walk around the bottom terminal and maze and then cross a road to reach the outpost.

2.        There is a need for ski runs that better accommodate beginner and intermediate skiers and snowboarders in the Silver Fir area.

Approximately 2 acres have been identified as problem areas for routine maintenance (Grading Areas B and C). The steep quality of the slope coupled with extremely rocky terrain makes this area difficult to groom for ski area users and unfeasible to maintain during low snow conditions. Trails are groomed to provide consistent, easily navigated terrain. Existing conditions of ski trails are steep, rocky, and narrow, with natural hazards that can make it difficult to navigate for beginner and intermediate users.

Proposed Action

The proposed amendment includes two elements. Implementation of all pertinent mitigation measures required by the October 2008 ROD would be part of each project.  Figure 1 is an overview map that identifies generally where these projects are located within the ski area.  It indicates the location of grading area A, the guest services lodge construction, and grading areas B and C west of the lodge site.  More detailed information on the guest services lodge construction, as currently approved, is available in the MDP and ROD.

Guest Services Lodge and Grading Area A

Changes from the 2008 approved project, as described in the MDP, include:

        Dropping plans approved in the MDP and ROD to expand the existing Silver Fir outpost (19,818 sq. ft) into a core guest services area.

        Removing the existing outpost and converting the area to parking.

        Grading approximately 1.5 acres of land to construct a new, but smaller (10,000 sq ft.) guest services lodge (Grading Area A).

        Constructing a new 10,000 square foot, two-story lodge on NFS land. A 7,000 square foot main floor would accommodate approximately 200 restaurant seats; a 3,000 square foot bottom floor would house bathrooms, rentals, retail, guest services, and provide storage; and a 5,000 square foot heated plaza and stairs would provide recreation users direct access to the loading area of the lift (maze) and parking.Implementation of the new Silver Fir Lodge is expected to occur between summer 2011 and fall 2012.

Figure 2 shows the location of Grading Area A, the proposed location of the new lodge, and the existing outpost/proposed parking area.

Grading Areas B and C

This is a new project not previously proposed in the 2008 ROD. The proposal is to grade approximately 1.75 acres of land located north along the slope of the Silver Fir Express lift (Grading Area B). There are three main cut areas that will be used to push material down into the two main fill areas (Figures 4 and 5). The majority of the fill material is expected to be shale from the south section as shown in Section A-A (Figure 6). The other cut sections are shallower. Most cut material will be pushed to the north to fill in low spots as shown in Fill Section B-B (Figure 7). Ground disturbing work in this area includes cutting and filling approximately 1500 cubic yards of material. The Ski Area hopes to implement this cutting with a bulldozer and trackhoe, but may need to conduct blasting.

The proposal is also to grade approximately 0.25 acre of land located north of Grading Area B and south of the Central Express lift (Grading Area C). The intent of grading this section is to widen the ski run creating easier conditions for intermediate skiers and snowboarders. Implementation of Grading Areas B and C is expected to occur during summer 2011.

Figure 3 shows the locations of Grading Area B and Grading Area C at Silver Fir.

Figures 4 and 5 show the cut and fill dimensions of Grading Area B, in detail.

Figure 6 shows Cut Section A-A; Figure 7 shows Fill Section B-B.

Decision to be Made       

The Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie Forest Supervisor will be the Deciding Officer for this project.  Upon completion of the environmental analysis, the Forest Supervisor will decide whether or not to authorize the implementation of the proposed amendments to the Summit-at-Snoqualmie MDP.

Public Involvement and Request for Comments

The Forest Service is scoping for issues that the environmental analysis should address. Your input will be used to analyze the effects of the proposed action or to develop alternatives and mitigation measures. In order to ensure your comments are considered in the analysis, please respond by no later than January 20, 2011. The Forest Service expects to release a decision in spring 2011. 

n an effort to reduce paper use, the Forest Service will emphasize electronic correspondence and media throughout this project. The Forest’s website will be the primary avenue through which the Forest Service will provide information about this project. You can view this letter and subsequent documents on the Internet at www.fs.usda.gov/mbs  by clicking Projects under the Land and Resources Management link.

Electronic comments should be submitted in text (.txt), .pdf, rich text (.rtf) or Word (.doc) format via e-mail to ccreed@fs.fed.us. Written comments should be mailed or dropped off in person to Forest Supervisor, Attention: Snoqualmie Pass MDP Amendment #1 Project, at 2930 Wetmore Avenue, Suite 3A, Everett, WA 98201. Office hours for submitting hand-delivered comments are 8:00 am to 4:30 pm Monday through Friday, excluding holidays. Comments may also be faxed to (425)783-0212.

If you have questions regarding this project, please contact the project leader, Cecilia Reed at Snoqualmie Ranger District (North Bend office), by telephone (425)888-8769, or ccreed@fs.fed.us.

Comments received in response to this letter, including names and addresses of those who comment, will be part of the Project Record and available for public review.

Sincerely,

Y. Robert Iwamoto, Forest Supervisor

Figures and maps are too large to send through e-mail. You can find figures, maps, and a pdf version of this scoping letter at www.fs.usda.gov/goto/mbs/projects under the heading "Snoqualmie Pass Ski Area Master Development Plan Amendment #1." If you would like to receive a hard-copy of this letter, please refer to the contact information in the request for comments section above or send a request to this e-mail addres