You've just completed a spectacular ice climb. Everything went smoothly the entire way. But now you're three pitches off the deck and you don't want to leave anything behind on your descent. There is a way to do this and it is surprisingly simple.
The V-thread -- also known as the Abalakov anchor -- is a simple technique wherein one simply links two holes bored in the ice together and then threads a cord through, the cord is then tied-off and used as an anchor.
Following is a short video on how to do this with a single ice screw:
It's not a bad idea to back-up an ice anchor before rappelling. This article provides some tips as to how one might back-up a V-thread.
It's a good idea to practice this on the ground before employing it in a descent. Though this is conceptually simple, it can be difficult to line up the bore holes. This is definitely not something that you want to use for the first time in a raging snowstorm as it's starting to get dark.
--Jason D. Martin
Monday, January 30, 2023
Friday, January 27, 2023
Avalanche Awareness - Strategic Shoveling
This video is the third in the three-part series put together by Backcountry Access.
As with the first two parts, I'd like to once again throw in a word of warning. One should not travel in the winter backcountry without proper avalanche education.
--Jason D. Martin
As with the first two parts, I'd like to once again throw in a word of warning. One should not travel in the winter backcountry without proper avalanche education.
--Jason D. Martin
Thursday, January 26, 2023
Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 1/26/23
Northwest:
--Castanet is reporting that, "RCMP have confirmed two have been killed following an avalanche in the Mount McCrae area near Revelstoke Monday afternoon. A third person suffered injuries In a statement, police say a small group of people had been heli-skiing in the area known as 'Chocolate Bunnies' southeast of Revelstoke at the time of the avalanche." To read more, click here.
--A climbing wall is being constructed on the old concrete silos in the town of Concrete. From Go Skagit: "The climbing wall that is planned for the back of the old silos that welcome visitors to the town of Concrete has had its first climbing holds installed. The holds, which climbers will use to scale the silos, are gray and rock-like in order to match the aesthetic of the silos and give climbers a more natural experience, said Jeremy Akers, who is funding the climbing wall." To read more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
Colorado and Utah:
Notes from All Over:
--Castanet is reporting that, "RCMP have confirmed two have been killed following an avalanche in the Mount McCrae area near Revelstoke Monday afternoon. A third person suffered injuries In a statement, police say a small group of people had been heli-skiing in the area known as 'Chocolate Bunnies' southeast of Revelstoke at the time of the avalanche." To read more, click here.
--A climbing wall is being constructed on the old concrete silos in the town of Concrete. From Go Skagit: "The climbing wall that is planned for the back of the old silos that welcome visitors to the town of Concrete has had its first climbing holds installed. The holds, which climbers will use to scale the silos, are gray and rock-like in order to match the aesthetic of the silos and give climbers a more natural experience, said Jeremy Akers, who is funding the climbing wall." To read more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--A climber in Arizona who got her knee stuck in a crack was freed through the use of dish soap. To read more about this rescue, click here.
A Joshua Tree in Joshua Tree National Park
--The National Parks Traveler is reporting that, "Joshua Tree National Park and the Twenty-Nine Palms Band of Mission Indians have signed an agreement that allows for continued cooperation and a path toward shared stewardship of park resources. 'The Twenty-Nine Palms Band of Mission Indians and Joshua Tree National Park have a long, extensive history of working together to protect sacred sites and interpret the history of the first people in this area,” said Superintendent David Smith. “This agreement is just the next step in a journey where we continue to collaborate to protect the park's resources and honor the history of the people who helped shape this cultural landscape.'"To read more, click here.
Colorado and Utah:
--KSL.com is reporting that, "Visitation at Utah's "Mighty 5" national parks took a slight tumble in 2022. A little more than 10.5 million people visited the five national parks last year, down about 7% from the record-setting 2021 numbers, according to a KSL.com analysis of National Park Service visitation. While the numbers are well ahead of the COVID-19 pandemic-impacted 2020 levels, the 2022 figures ended up 2% below pre-pandemic levels in 2019." To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--SGB Media is reporting that, "It looks like big snow equals big business, at least for ski resort owner and operator Vail Resorts, Inc. The company reported preliminary season-to-date total skier visits were up 12.5 percent through January 8, compared to the 2021/22 season-to-date period." To read more, click here.
--SnowBrains is reporting that, "For the first time in 74 years, winter 23/24 will be the first winter without a brand new Warren Miller movie. The news comes on the anniversary of the great man’s passing on January 24th, 2018. The news was announced by director/director of photography Chris Patterson on Instagram. Patterson has been filming Warren Miller movies for thirty years. According to Patterson, the heartbreaking decision has been made by Outside Inc due to financial challenges. While no new movies will be filmed, future movies will be created from already existing footage." To read more, click here.
--Gripped is reporting that, "While some places in Canada known to have fat ice had a slow start, classics from coast to coast are now in and getting climbed. In Banff National Park, two new routes were just climbed above Lake Minnewanka near the town of Banff. Both require skating along the frozen lake and add to the growing number of routes next to the famous body of water that ends in the Ghost River Valley." To read more, click here.
Monday, January 23, 2023
Route Profile: Cat in the Hat, 5.6+, II+
When I first moved to Las Vegas in 1999, there was one route that everyone told me I had to do. I had just started grad school and it was still August in Vegas. If that doesn't mean anything to you, then you've never been in desert southwest in August. The average daily temperature was 103 degrees.
Cat in the Hat (5.6+, II+) was going to be one of my very first routes in the Canyon that would soon become my home. But it was an inauspicious start. Somehow in our transition from hiking to climbing, the water didn't make it back into our packs. So under the burning sun, we had to bail after the second pitch.
I was back a week later to finish the route, once again in the sun. But since that time, I have literally frozen on the route. I've been snowed on. I've been nearly blown off by wind. I've rappelled off in a rain storm. And I've sweated under the hot sun.
I know. It doesn't sound that great.
But I've also had some of my best days of moderate climbing and guiding on the route in near perfect conditions... Cat in the Hat is like an old friend. A route that will always be there to make me feel at home.
The route is important to the history of Red Rock Canyon as well. The most iconic first ascentionists in Red Rock are George and Joanne Uriosite. The couple moved to Las Vegas in the mid-seventies, but didn't climb much. They were turned off by the amount of sharp brush and the poor rock they encountered on their first forays out. But then in 1976, the pair plus friends Bruce Eisner and John Shirley, began to explore the Mescalito, the prominent feature that that showcases Cat in the Hat on its south face. They quickly discovered the route and made the first ascent after two separate exploratory trips.
The quality of the route changed the perspective of the Uriosties. They no longer saw Red Rock as as a chossy heap of scrub filled rocks, but instead as a playground. The pair went on to be part of the small team of desert explorers that made Red Rock what it is today.
On the approach to the Mescalito, the majority of the route is hidden
in the south fork of Pine Creek. The red line shows the top of the route.
(Click on Photo to Enlarge)
A climber follows the final pitch of the route.
There's something else about the final pitch that makes first time leaders squirm a little bit. The final thirty feet of the route is not too run-out, but it is run-out just enough to make many climbers squirm. That mild run-out is also one of the most memorable of any climb in the area.
There are some rules for Cat. First, avoid the route in December and January. The sun is too low and the bottom of the route can be frigid. Second, avoid the route when it's really hot out; there is no shade. And if it's hot, be sure to bring lots of water. And finally, the route's quality also can lead to crowds. My strategy is to start very early, or to start very late. You either want to be there before the crowds, or after.
A climber pulls through the final moves of Cat in the Hat.
I've probably climbed Cat in the Hat thirty times. And every time, whether in the rain or cold, or in sun on a beautiful day, I've had a great time. A route like this one was made for climbers. And most climbers were made for a route like this...
--Jason D. Martin
Friday, January 20, 2023
Indirect, Redirect and Direct Belays
Most climbers know intrinsically that there are a few of different methods that a climber might use to belay from the top. These are indirect belays, redirected belays and direct belays. Following is a quick rundown of each:
Indirect Belay
An indirect belay is when one belays directly off of his body. In the old days a climber would finish a line, clip into the anchor and then put his follower on belay directly off his belay loop. This is referred to as an indirect belay because the belay doesn't directly transfer force into the anchor. The force must go through the belayer's body first.
Very few experienced climbers still use an indirect belay for standard rock climbing. However, in a setting where one cannot build a strong enough anchor, it makes a lot of sense to put your body between the force of the load and whatever anchor you have.
In the above photo, AAI Guide Tad McCrea is belaying directly off his harness on a steep slope. His is attached to a snow picket, but a snow picket isn't that strong. In a snow setting, an indirect belay allows one to absorb some of the force so that it's not directly transmuted to the anchor.
Certainly, if it is impossible to build a solid rock anchor, a stance with a single piece could be almost as good as a bombproof anchor.
The biggest downside to an indirect belay is escaping the system. It's reasonable to tie-off a system and transfer the load to the anchor using some rock rescue trickery. However, if you put your body between the anchor and the load to begin with, your anchor may not be good enough to take the load...which could be a problem.
Redirect Belay
In the 1990s, it became quite popular to climb a pitch, clip into the anchor and then redirect your belay off the anchor point and back down to the climber, essentially making a mini-toprope. Often one would redirect off a single piece in order to make sure there was enough room to belay.
Climbers found this to be much more pleasant than your standard indirect belay. They liked the idea that they would be pulled up instead of down when a person fell.
There are a few problems with the system. First, when a climber belays with a redirect, there is a pulley-effect, which doubles the force on the anchor. This isn't a very good idea if you're using this on a single piece or have a weak anchor. Second, if the climber is heavier than the belayer, the belayer can get pulled up into the redirect and potentially let go. And third, this is a hard system to escape in the event of an emergency.
Modern climbing technology has nearly eliminated the redirect belay from use. There are very few circumstances where this technique is applicable.
Direct Belay
The direct belay is a belay directly off the anchor. These are the most common belays in the climbing world today. Most climbers use an autoblocking device, like a ATC Guide or a Petzel Reverso, but one could also belay directly off the anchor with a munter-hitch.
The idea behind a direct belay is that, (1) you are not in the system; and (2) it's very easy to escape the belay. If you can build a solid anchor, there is almost no reason to use anything but a direct belay.
--Jason D. Martin
Indirect Belay
An indirect belay is when one belays directly off of his body. In the old days a climber would finish a line, clip into the anchor and then put his follower on belay directly off his belay loop. This is referred to as an indirect belay because the belay doesn't directly transfer force into the anchor. The force must go through the belayer's body first.
Very few experienced climbers still use an indirect belay for standard rock climbing. However, in a setting where one cannot build a strong enough anchor, it makes a lot of sense to put your body between the force of the load and whatever anchor you have.
In the above photo, AAI Guide Tad McCrea is belaying directly off his harness on a steep slope. His is attached to a snow picket, but a snow picket isn't that strong. In a snow setting, an indirect belay allows one to absorb some of the force so that it's not directly transmuted to the anchor.
Certainly, if it is impossible to build a solid rock anchor, a stance with a single piece could be almost as good as a bombproof anchor.
The biggest downside to an indirect belay is escaping the system. It's reasonable to tie-off a system and transfer the load to the anchor using some rock rescue trickery. However, if you put your body between the anchor and the load to begin with, your anchor may not be good enough to take the load...which could be a problem.
Redirect Belay
In the 1990s, it became quite popular to climb a pitch, clip into the anchor and then redirect your belay off the anchor point and back down to the climber, essentially making a mini-toprope. Often one would redirect off a single piece in order to make sure there was enough room to belay.
Climbers found this to be much more pleasant than your standard indirect belay. They liked the idea that they would be pulled up instead of down when a person fell.
There are a few problems with the system. First, when a climber belays with a redirect, there is a pulley-effect, which doubles the force on the anchor. This isn't a very good idea if you're using this on a single piece or have a weak anchor. Second, if the climber is heavier than the belayer, the belayer can get pulled up into the redirect and potentially let go. And third, this is a hard system to escape in the event of an emergency.
Modern climbing technology has nearly eliminated the redirect belay from use. There are very few circumstances where this technique is applicable.
Direct Belay
The direct belay is a belay directly off the anchor. These are the most common belays in the climbing world today. Most climbers use an autoblocking device, like a ATC Guide or a Petzel Reverso, but one could also belay directly off the anchor with a munter-hitch.
The idea behind a direct belay is that, (1) you are not in the system; and (2) it's very easy to escape the belay. If you can build a solid anchor, there is almost no reason to use anything but a direct belay.
--Jason D. Martin
Thursday, January 19, 2023
Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 1/19/2023
Northwest:
--Mt. Rainier National Park is receiving a lot of blowback for it's weekday closures. From the Seattle Times: "Paradise is popular with families for sledding and snow play, snowshoers and Nordic skiers, out-of-town visitors eager to see snow up close, and backcountry skiers and winter climbers who explore the park’s higher reaches. The closure has pinched a nerve in a region dealing with chronic overcrowding at winter recreation access points, an issue that flared elsewhere Jan. 2 as Stevens Pass and The Summit at Snoqualmie handled overwhelming crowds, and day hikers packed the Mount Tahoma Trails network." To read more, click here.
Sierra:
--Outside is reporting that, "California’s snowy winter could mean trouble for thru-hikers on the Pacific Crest Trail. According to current measurements, the northern Sierra Nevada range currently has 173 percent of the average snowpack for this time of the year, followed by 201 percent in the central Sierras, and 222 percent in the southern Sierras. Statewide, snow levels are 199 percent the average amount. Amidst the worst drought in 1,200 years, the moisture could help restore some of California’s water supply. But there are drawbacks to the heavy precipitation. Flooding and risks to backcountry travel are hazards that could be on the horizon for the spring and summer." To read more, click here.
Colorado and Utah:
Notes from All Over:
--Climbing is reporting that, "Last December, Iranian authorities arrested at least five athletes, including several climbers, from the southern city of Shiraz. Their arrest came amid the widespread anti-regime protests, which have been ongoing since September 16, 2022. Hesam Mousavi, a prominent rock climbing and highline instructor, was among the detainees. Others arrested were Eshragh Najaf Abadi, a former member of Iran’s national cycling and mountain climbing teams; Amirarsalan Mahdavi, a rock climber and snowboarding coach; and Mohammad Khiveh, a mountaineer. According to Iranwire and the Center for Human Rights in Iran, other climbers from Shiraz have since been arrested, including Marjan Jangjou, Hamid Ghashghaei, and Hamed Qashqaei." To read more, click here.
--Outside is reporting that, "after nine teleconference meetings, plus dozens of emails, texts, and phone calls, the American Alpine Club has finally agreed on a new name for its annual award for excellence in climbing. The honor, formerly named for groundbreaking American climbers Robert and Miriam Underhill, will now be called the Pinnacle Award. The club chose to rename it after leadership learned of Robert L.H. Underhill’s antisemitic views, which he expressed in written letters to colleagues in 1939 and 1946." To read more, click here.
--Mt. Rainier National Park is receiving a lot of blowback for it's weekday closures. From the Seattle Times: "Paradise is popular with families for sledding and snow play, snowshoers and Nordic skiers, out-of-town visitors eager to see snow up close, and backcountry skiers and winter climbers who explore the park’s higher reaches. The closure has pinched a nerve in a region dealing with chronic overcrowding at winter recreation access points, an issue that flared elsewhere Jan. 2 as Stevens Pass and The Summit at Snoqualmie handled overwhelming crowds, and day hikers packed the Mount Tahoma Trails network." To read more, click here.
Sierra:
--Outside is reporting that, "California’s snowy winter could mean trouble for thru-hikers on the Pacific Crest Trail. According to current measurements, the northern Sierra Nevada range currently has 173 percent of the average snowpack for this time of the year, followed by 201 percent in the central Sierras, and 222 percent in the southern Sierras. Statewide, snow levels are 199 percent the average amount. Amidst the worst drought in 1,200 years, the moisture could help restore some of California’s water supply. But there are drawbacks to the heavy precipitation. Flooding and risks to backcountry travel are hazards that could be on the horizon for the spring and summer." To read more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--With the wet cold weather, be prepared for closures at Red Rock Canyon. And consider climbing on limestone after these storms. There are several limestone areas outside the Red Rock Scenic Drive.
--3 News is reporting that, "The steady winter storms this season are especially good news at Red Rock Canyon, where a project is turning the rain into more rain. Scientists say they've successfully increased rain in Red Rock Canyon this season by cloud seeding." To read more, click here.
Colorado and Utah:
--A skier died in a tree well at Steamboat on Friday. Please be careful out there and consider the thoughts in this video.
--Out There Colorado is reporting that, "Crew members from Snowmass Ski Patrol were deployed into the backcountry near Snowmass ski area on Saturday after being notified that an out-of-bounds skier fell into a river. Ski patrol officials contacted emergency services at around 3:09 PM on Saturday, saying they were in contact with a skier that skied out of bounds near the West Willow drainage and had fallen into the river." To read more, click here.
--From the Access Fund and the Boulder Climbing Coalition: "The BCC and Access Fund are looking for climber input to help us in formulating our submission on Rocky Mountain National Park’s re-examination of its visitor use management strategy. In general, Park officials believe that excess visitation is hurting the ecology, system infrastructure, and user experience. They have not identified climbers in particular as a cause of those problems, but any further changes to the Park’s timed entry system will affect climbers. The Park is initiating a public process (NEPA) to consider various options. They have mentioned some possible changes for consideration, but say they are open to other ideas as well." To read more, click here.
--Climbing is reporting that, "On January 1, a new law took effect in Colorado that provides extra support to the state’s search and rescue teams. Senate Bill 168 transfers the backcountry search and rescue responsibilities of the Department of Local Affairs’ (DOLA) to the division of Parks and Wildlife, which is expected to provide teams with a bigger budget. The new law also provides volunteers with immunity from civil lawsuits that result from failed missions. And if a volunteer becomes permanently disabled or killed while on duty, the law will also provide the volunteer’s dependents with access to higher education." To read more, click here.
--Climbing is reporting that, "Last December, Iranian authorities arrested at least five athletes, including several climbers, from the southern city of Shiraz. Their arrest came amid the widespread anti-regime protests, which have been ongoing since September 16, 2022. Hesam Mousavi, a prominent rock climbing and highline instructor, was among the detainees. Others arrested were Eshragh Najaf Abadi, a former member of Iran’s national cycling and mountain climbing teams; Amirarsalan Mahdavi, a rock climber and snowboarding coach; and Mohammad Khiveh, a mountaineer. According to Iranwire and the Center for Human Rights in Iran, other climbers from Shiraz have since been arrested, including Marjan Jangjou, Hamid Ghashghaei, and Hamed Qashqaei." To read more, click here.
--Outside is reporting that, "after nine teleconference meetings, plus dozens of emails, texts, and phone calls, the American Alpine Club has finally agreed on a new name for its annual award for excellence in climbing. The honor, formerly named for groundbreaking American climbers Robert and Miriam Underhill, will now be called the Pinnacle Award. The club chose to rename it after leadership learned of Robert L.H. Underhill’s antisemitic views, which he expressed in written letters to colleagues in 1939 and 1946." To read more, click here.
--An avalanche derailed a freight train near Alaska's Girdwood this week...
Monday, January 16, 2023
10 Essential Backcountry Ski and Snowboard Tips!
Backcountry skiing is a knowledge and gear intensive sport. Today's blog hits on a few equipment suggestions as well as some technique ideas for the active backcountry skiers and snowboarders...! Following are ten tips for backcountry travelers.
1) Carry a Repair Kit
This is a commonly forgotten item for backcountry skiers. Breaking a ski or a binding in the backcountry is a big deal. At least one person on every team should have some kind of repair kit. And it should be able to pretty much repair anything.
I broke my binding several years ago, miles from the car. Thankfully, we had the equipment to fix it...!
The repair kit should at the very least, include: a multi-tool, duct tape, ski straps, a pole splint, a skin tip, an extra pole basket, zip ties, bailing wire, hose repair clamp, lighter, scraper, cordellete and a binding buddy with extra screws.
2) Skins Inside Jacket
It's not uncommon for backcountry skiers to take short laps. This is sometimes referred to as yo-yoing. Short laps tend to mean quick transitions without much of a break. Instead of taking the time to take off your backpack, fold up your skins and put them inside your jacket...
3) Carry a Hydration Bladder
Skinning is hard work. It's not uncommon for you to want something to drink while making your way up a steep hill.
"But the tube on my hydration bladder will freeze," you say.
You're right. It will. Unless you take care of it.
To keep your tube from freezing: 1) Get a tube insulator. 2) Put the bite-valve down the neck of your jacket when not in use. 3) Blow the water back into the bladder after your finished drinking. 4) And finally, if it's super cold out, use a "backpack-style" bladder, and wear it under your jacket.
4) Wax the Tops of Your Skis or Snowboard
Obviously, everyone waxes the bottoms of their skis. But the tops?
Yep. This is a great way to keep snow from bunching up on top of your skis.
5) Put Your Downhill Ski on First
When standing on a slope, place your downhill ski first and step into it, and then your uphill ski. This will give you more stability as you get your skis on.
6) Don't be too Aggressive
People tend to ski somewhat aggressively in-bounds. There are a lot more things to be worried about when you're in the backcountry. As such, it's important to make sure that you take it slow and don't get overconfident.
7) Ride with a Partner
If there's an accident, you will need help. If there's an avalanche, you will need help. Backcountry skiing is dangerous and if you don't have a partner with you,
8) If Skiing Adjacent to a Resort, Know the Uphill Rules
Some resorts allow backcountry traffic to skin uphill inside their ropes. Other resorts don't allow this at all. It's important to know and follow the rules if you're near a resort. If you don't and you cause a problem for downhill traffic, it can have a negative impact not only on you, but on other backcountry skiers who might wish to use the area.
9) Beware of Tree Wells
After a big dump, tree-branches can create a hollow area beneath a tree. This area can be a trap for skiers or snowboarders, especially if they fall into it head first. The snow on the tree branches can come down and suffocate you. It is a very dangerous place.
It's important to become educated on tree wells. You should understand how to avoid them, and what to do if someone gets caught in one. To learn more about tree-wells and how to manage them, click here.
10) Take an Avalanche Course and Check Conditions!
There is nothing more important than understanding avalanches and how to avoid them. To do this, your best bet is to take an avalanche course. Additionally, you should always check with your local avalanche forecaster to determine if it's worth it to go out on a given day...!
--Jason D. Martin
1) Carry a Repair Kit
This is a commonly forgotten item for backcountry skiers. Breaking a ski or a binding in the backcountry is a big deal. At least one person on every team should have some kind of repair kit. And it should be able to pretty much repair anything.
I broke my binding several years ago, miles from the car. Thankfully, we had the equipment to fix it...!
A backcountry ski repair kit.
(click to enlarge)
The repair kit should at the very least, include: a multi-tool, duct tape, ski straps, a pole splint, a skin tip, an extra pole basket, zip ties, bailing wire, hose repair clamp, lighter, scraper, cordellete and a binding buddy with extra screws.
2) Skins Inside Jacket
It's not uncommon for backcountry skiers to take short laps. This is sometimes referred to as yo-yoing. Short laps tend to mean quick transitions without much of a break. Instead of taking the time to take off your backpack, fold up your skins and put them inside your jacket...
3) Carry a Hydration Bladder
Skinning is hard work. It's not uncommon for you to want something to drink while making your way up a steep hill.
"But the tube on my hydration bladder will freeze," you say.
You're right. It will. Unless you take care of it.
To keep your tube from freezing: 1) Get a tube insulator. 2) Put the bite-valve down the neck of your jacket when not in use. 3) Blow the water back into the bladder after your finished drinking. 4) And finally, if it's super cold out, use a "backpack-style" bladder, and wear it under your jacket.
4) Wax the Tops of Your Skis or Snowboard
Obviously, everyone waxes the bottoms of their skis. But the tops?
Yep. This is a great way to keep snow from bunching up on top of your skis.
5) Put Your Downhill Ski on First
When standing on a slope, place your downhill ski first and step into it, and then your uphill ski. This will give you more stability as you get your skis on.
6) Don't be too Aggressive
People tend to ski somewhat aggressively in-bounds. There are a lot more things to be worried about when you're in the backcountry. As such, it's important to make sure that you take it slow and don't get overconfident.
7) Ride with a Partner
If there's an accident, you will need help. If there's an avalanche, you will need help. Backcountry skiing is dangerous and if you don't have a partner with you,
8) If Skiing Adjacent to a Resort, Know the Uphill Rules
Some resorts allow backcountry traffic to skin uphill inside their ropes. Other resorts don't allow this at all. It's important to know and follow the rules if you're near a resort. If you don't and you cause a problem for downhill traffic, it can have a negative impact not only on you, but on other backcountry skiers who might wish to use the area.
9) Beware of Tree Wells
After a big dump, tree-branches can create a hollow area beneath a tree. This area can be a trap for skiers or snowboarders, especially if they fall into it head first. The snow on the tree branches can come down and suffocate you. It is a very dangerous place.
It's important to become educated on tree wells. You should understand how to avoid them, and what to do if someone gets caught in one. To learn more about tree-wells and how to manage them, click here.
10) Take an Avalanche Course and Check Conditions!
An AAI Guide describes the snow layers on an Avalanche Course.
There is nothing more important than understanding avalanches and how to avoid them. To do this, your best bet is to take an avalanche course. Additionally, you should always check with your local avalanche forecaster to determine if it's worth it to go out on a given day...!
--Jason D. Martin
Friday, January 13, 2023
Belaying a Skier Over a Cornice
In this video, two techniques are described that may be used by a backcountry skier to check out the edge of a cornice. The first technique is a body belay. And the second technique employs a t-trench.
--Jason D. Martin
Thursday, January 12, 2023
Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 1/12/23
Sierra:
--Here's an avalanche report from an incident on Incline Peak.
Desert Southwest:
--SnowBrains is reporting that, "On Monday, an avalanche killed a hiker at Mount Charleston, near Las Vegas, NV. The man was hiking at 11,000 feet on the Mummy Spring trail in the Spring Mountains recreation area next to the Lee Canyon ski area when he was caught in a slide in a wooded area. It is not yet known if the man triggered the slide or if he was caught in a natural avalanche." To read more, click here.
--Here's an avalanche report from an incident on Incline Peak.
--Outside is reporting that, "The Range of Light National Monument would link Yosemite and Sequoia–Kings Canyon National Parks. Thousands of acres in California’s Sierra National Forest have been proposed as a national monument. Many argue that the protection is crucial for wildlife, the environment, and wilderness recreation. But it will face stiff opposition." To read more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--SnowBrains is reporting that, "On Monday, an avalanche killed a hiker at Mount Charleston, near Las Vegas, NV. The man was hiking at 11,000 feet on the Mummy Spring trail in the Spring Mountains recreation area next to the Lee Canyon ski area when he was caught in a slide in a wooded area. It is not yet known if the man triggered the slide or if he was caught in a natural avalanche." To read more, click here.
--The Deseret Sun is reporting that, "an Orange County woman who died after falling and hitting her head on a rugged trail above Joshua Tree National Park's Rattlesnake Canyon near Indian Cove has been identified. The Riverside County coroner's office identified the deceased woman as 58-year-old Anna Nuno of Lakewood, in Los Angeles County." To read more, click here.
Colorado and Utah:
--Climbing has posted a tribute to the climbers we lost in 2022.
--The Colorado Sun is reporting that, "Two men were killed in a backcountry avalanche Saturday afternoon near Winter Park. The Grand County Sheriff’s Office says it was alerted to the slide on Corona Pass, in the area of Mount Epworth and Pumphouse Lake, at about 2:15 p.m. 'Initial reports were that two snowmobilers had become buried in the avalanche,' the sheriff’s office said." To read more, click here.
--Climbing has posted a tribute to the climbers we lost in 2022.
--The Colorado Sun is reporting that, "Two men were killed in a backcountry avalanche Saturday afternoon near Winter Park. The Grand County Sheriff’s Office says it was alerted to the slide on Corona Pass, in the area of Mount Epworth and Pumphouse Lake, at about 2:15 p.m. 'Initial reports were that two snowmobilers had become buried in the avalanche,' the sheriff’s office said." To read more, click here.
--2 KUTV is reporting that, "Several weekend search and rescue operations have authorities across Utah urging preparedness. Teams helped victims in Cache and Washington County, as well as a man who crashed and broke his leg while backcountry skiing in Big Cottonwood Canyon." To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--KTLA 5 is reporting that, "A female hiker on Mt. Baldy died after sliding an estimated 500-700 feet down Baldy Bowl’s steep, icy hillside Sunday, authorities announced. Officials with the San Bernardino Sheriff’s Department received a call from the California Office of Emergency Services in reference to “an SOS message from a Garmin InReach device” stating that a hiker had just fallen down Baldy Bowl, the sheriff’s department said in a news release." To read more, click here.
--While there's a lot of snow in the west, there's not much in the east. Mad River Glen in Vermont has ceased operations due to lack of snow.
Monday, January 9, 2023
Perfecting the Powder Turn
I don't think I'll ever be the skier I want to be. I'm constantly working on something. That's one of the cool things about skiing. It can be a life-long obsession in making perfect turns.
And no turn is more fun to make than a turn in powder...
And no turn is more fun to make than a turn in powder...
Today's Stomp It Tutorial covers five tips to develop and perfect your powder turn. There's so much in this video, I'm about to watch it again!
--Jason D. Martin
Thursday, January 5, 2023
Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 1/5/23
Post Holiday Note:
Normally, this report updates news on a weekly basis. Due to holiday staffing, this report covers the news from December 23rd through January 4th.
--Gripped is reporting that, "a huge rockfall on Snowpatch Spire is sending shockwaves through the local and international climbing community. This will forever change this part of the Bugaboo Provincial Park and access to certain routes. The face has classic aid and free routes, including the Tom Egan Memorial Route, which Will Stanhope freed at 5.14 in 2015, which is now gone. The popular Sunshine Crack, an 11-pitch 5.11 first climbed by Alex Lowe and Shelly Scott, has also been destroyed as at least the lower pitches have been wiped out." To read more, click here.
--King 5 News is reporting that, "The Washington State Department of Transportation (WSDOT) began Phase 3 construction this year on a 15-mile stretch of Interstate 90 between Hyak and Easton that will include new wildlife crossings. The crossings will help reconnect animals with habitats they have been isolated from because of high traffic volumes on the interstate – joining existing crossing structures that have already had an impact on wildlife." To read more, click here.
--Here's an update from Gripped on a new ice route in British Columbia. This report also includes several other updates on Canadian ice.
Sierra:
El Capitan at Sunset
--Gripped is reporting that, "two people were killed in Yosemite National Park following a rockfall near the park entrance, according to the Mariposa County Sheriff’s Office. Officials said the rockfall took place between the Arch Rock Entrance and the town of El Portal, within the boundaries of Yosemite National Park. It happened on Tuesday and was described at the time as 'a significant rockfall.'" To read more, click here.
--The Tahoe Daily Tribune is reporting that, "the first Sierra snowpack survey of the season on Tuesday showed that California is way above average, but officials caution that last year was also well above average at the beginning of the year before three record months of dry weather resulted in one of the smallest packs on record. The Department of Water Resources conducted the survey at Phillips Station, located near the entrance to Sierra-at-Tahoe, and discovered the snowpack is at 177% for the location and is at 174% of the historical average for this year, an impressive amount due to a stormy December. The snow there was at a depth of 55.5 inches — enough to store 17.5 inches of water." To read more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--Joshua Tree National Park, through a ranger's eyes...
--From the Grand Canyon Trust: "New data released by the U.S. Bureau of Economic Analysis shows outdoor recreation growing rapidly in the Grand Canyon state, adding over $9.8 billion to Arizona's economy in 2021 and providing over 100,000 jobs. The findings underscore the need to permanently protect the Arizona economy and the Grand Canyon region from new uranium mines that could put land, air, and especially clean water at risk of radioactive contamination. Arizona outdoor recreation jobs depend a healthy, safe Grand Canyon." To read more, click here.
Colorado and Utah:
--SnowBrains is reporting that, "a snowboarder was killed in an avalanche on Monday, December 26, on Berthoud Pass, CO. Four backcountry tourers were caught, two fully buried, and one killed. It is the first avalanche fatality of the winter 2022/23 season. Local news is reporting the victim was a 44-year-old man." To read more, click here.
Colorado and Utah:
--SnowBrains is reporting that, "a snowboarder was killed in an avalanche on Monday, December 26, on Berthoud Pass, CO. Four backcountry tourers were caught, two fully buried, and one killed. It is the first avalanche fatality of the winter 2022/23 season. Local news is reporting the victim was a 44-year-old man." To read more, click here.
--SnowBrains is reporting that, "a backcountry skier was killed on Saturday in an avalanche on Peak 10 near Breckenridge, CO. The skier and his partner had left Breckenridge Resort, CO, through a backcountry access gate." To read more, click here.
--KSL.com is reporting that, "a tree fell on a Park City Mountain resort ski lift line Monday, killing a resort employee. The tree fell about 10:45 a.m. on the line of the Short Cut chairlift, Sara Huey, senior manager of communications, said in a statement." To read more, click here.
--On December 22nd, a chair at Breckenridge with a person onboard, was ripped off the chairlift cable by high winds. The occupant was okay after the incident. To read more, click here.
--SnowBrains is reporting that, "At approximately 4:50 pm on Thursday, December 29th, Pitkin County Sheriff’s Deputies learned a 38-year-old female from Fruita, CO, became too exhausted to make it to the 10th Mountain Division Hut, Betty Bear, off of trail 505, in the White River National Forest. The skier activated the SOS feature on her Garmin InReach. She communicated with Pitkin County Sheriff’s Deputies via text message. The female skier told Deputies that her water had frozen, but she had food. The female skier said her friends were faster and traveled ahead. She said her friends were already at the Betty Bear Hut. The female skier could not make it to the hut because she was too exhausted." To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--The Miami Herald, strangely, is reporting on an ice climbing accident in New Hampshire: "A climber needed rescue after a piece of ice came loose and fell on top of him during his ascent, New Hampshire officials said. James Lawrence, a 37-year-old “experienced” ice climber from Dover, was climbing Willey’s Slide — a climbing route in Hart’s Location — in the afternoon on Dec. 30, the New Hampshire Fish and Game Department said in a news release." To read more, click here.
Tim Howell became the first person to wingsuit off Aconcagua.
--Gripped is reporting that, "Tim Howell has become the first climber to jump from Argentina’s Aconcagua (6,962 m) and to fly to the valley using a wingsuit. Due to conditions, Howell could not jump from the summit instead launching from near the second camp." To read more, click here.
--The New York Times posted a piece on ice climbing and climate change on Christmas Day. Check it out. here.
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