The Bowline

The Canadian Guide Mike Barter is getting funnier and more creative with every video he makes. In one of his most recent videos, he covered the bowline and the bowline on a bite. And he did it all dressed like a cowboy...

Perhaps the best line of this video is when he says that a bowline is "strong enough to pull a snowboarder off his sister."



There are a couple of things that I'd like to add to this excellent video.

In addition to what Mike demonstrated, we are now teaching the double-bowline in the curriculum for the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course. This knot is quite a bit stronger than a single bowline and not as easily untied due to cyclic loading.

Mike repeatedly states that he doesn't want to see people tie-in with a bowline. You may be aware that there is a trend in the sport climbing community wherein people tie in with a double-bowline. There are two big problems with this. The first is that many climbers don't use this technique to tie-in and will not be able to check their partner adequately. And second, if there is a problem in the knot, it is far more likely to fail than a figure-eight follow-through.

There have been a few high-profile accidents with people using a double-bowline for their tie-in. These accidents could have been avoided if the individuals simply used the industry standard figure-eight and checked each other out...

The bowline is a very important knot. And as Mike said in the video, it could even be considered a king of the knots. But when all is said and done, it really should only be used for anchoring to boulders and trees.

--Jason D. Martin

January and February Climbing Events

--January 7-9 -- Kirov, Russia -- UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing

--January 7-10 -- Ouray, CO -- Ouray Ice Festival

--January 8 -- Carbondale, CO -- ABS Competition

--January 9 -- Cranbrook, BC -- Banff Film Festival

--January 10 -- Invermere, BC -- Banff Film Festival

--January 14-17 -- Crested Butte, CO -- High Adventure: Ice and Ski

--January 16 -- Bloomington, IL -- 15th Annual Hangdog Jamboree

--January 16-17 -- Saas Grund, Switzerland -- UIAA European Ice Climbing Youth Championship

-- January 16 -- Everett MA-- Metro Rock Hosts ABS Regionals - Newburyport

--January 16-17 -- Val Daone, Italy -- UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing

--Janyary 22-23 -- Saas Fee, Switzerland -- UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing

--January 23 -- San Luis Obispo, CA -- Bishop Peak Adopt-a-Crag

--January 23 -- Superior, WI -- Rock On

--January 26 -- Walla Walla, WA -- Banff Film Festival

--January 29 -- Jeffersonville, VT -- Smuggs Ice Bash

--January 30 -- Boston, MA -- Heart of Steel Bouldering Comp

-- Feburary 5 -- Marquette MI -- Michigan Ice Festival

-- February 5 -- Canmore AB, Canada -- Glitter Girls on Ice

-- February 6 -- Mechanicsburg PA -- Climbnasium's "Frost Bite" Competition

-- February 7 -- Akron OH --University of Akron Bouldering Competition

-- February 12 -- Cody WY --Wyoming Waterfall Ice Fest

-- February 19 -- Rancho Cordova CA -- Granite Arch Climbing Center "Friday Flash Fest #3"

-- February 20 -- Eugene OR -- University of Oregon Vertical Circus Climbing Competition

-- February 22 -- Evansville IN -- Vertical eXcape Climbing Center "Boulder Bash"

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you stoked

So I know its snowing out there and there is skiing to be done, which is exactly my plan, but if you dont ski and are looking forward towards getting out and climbing as soon as it warms up then I bet you will enjoy this video trailer from Black Diamond.

Crackoholic trailer (English text) from Jonas Paulsson on Vimeo.

Also this weekend is the 2010 Ouray Ice Festival. Last year AAI guide Dawn Glanc won the womens side of the competition. Below is a video from last year that gives ya'll an idea of what the festival and competition is all about.

Avalanche Awarness - Proper Probing Technique

The following video is the second in a three-part series put together by backcountry access.

Once again, I'd like to state the importance of having proper avalanche training before traveling into the winter backcountry. And proper training doesn't come from a two-minute video.



--Jason D. Martin

Avalanche Awareness - Beacon Search

The guys at Backcountry Access have put together a small series of videos on travel in avalanche terrain. This week we will present each of their videos to you.

It is important to realize that videos such as this only graze the surface of avalanche preparedness. Every winter backcountry traveler should take an avalanche class and then spend time practicing what they learned in the class...



--Jason Martin

Weekend Warrior -- Videos to get you stoked!

Happy New Year! Everyone from AAI hopes that these videos get the stoke started for 2010.

Adios 2009, you've been a good year.

Ice Tool Placement

Happy New Year! I suspect that most of you reading this are doing so late in the afternoon while trying to shake the remnants of last night's party out of your head.

And what better way to kill a hangover than to go ice climbing. Now that you all have those snazzy new ice tools that you got for Christmas, it's time to learn how to use them!

The following video is a great tutorial for both novice and intermediate ice climbers alike. There is nothing more important than a good stick for a climber on steep terrain. Every stick should be considered a hold and must support your bodyweight.



The one thing that should be added to this video is one's need to trust the leash on the tool. If you have a leash on your ice tool then you should allow it to support your weight as much as possible. If you don't do this, then your forearms will flame out much more quickly on steep terrain.

--Jason D. Martin