Sunburns in the Mountains

Over the twenty-years that I've been guiding, I've decided that the greatest enemy to the climber is not the rain, it's not the snow and it's not the wind. Instead, it is the sun. There is nothing more relenting and nothing that will have such dire long term effects as the sun.

There was a time in my life when I went from working in the heat of the desert directly to high altitude snow. These are both places where the sun is far more dangerous than in a city. And while I'm not aware of any reports of a higher incidence of skin cancer among climbers, it wouldn't surprise me if this were the case.

The most common places for climbers to get burned are on the tops of the ears, the tip of the nose and on the lips. High altitude climbers on glaciers will also see burns develop on the roof of their mouths and inside their nostrils.

The Author Belaying on Mount Baker
The bandanna covers both his ears and neck.

It might seem obvious, but it is incredibly important to wear sunscreen and cover as much skin as possible when you are in bright sunlight. Over the years I've had a few people on glaciers who decided that they "tan well" and elected not to wear sunscreen. In each of these cases, the climbers contracted serious burns that were so bad, they actually scabbed up.

Whether in the desert or at high altitude one must apply sunscreen and then reapply it often.

Many climbers on big mountains will wear a Buff to cover their faces or will carry multiple bandannas to pin around their faces and necks "Al Qaeda" style. Most will wear sunglasses with a nose beak. And many will apply sunscreen inside the nostrils.

In the desert, some will wear a bandana under their helmets and over their ears and neck. Sunshirts and shirts with collars are also popular. Sunshirts are designed to reflect most of the sunlight away while providing good coverage. Shirts with collars provide a little extra shade for the neck. 

Backpacking Style Sunshirt

The most popular sun protection on the market right now is the sun hoodie. Most companies have some version of this available. These are light-weight, breathable and have a hood to cover your ears and neck.

Mountain Sun Hoodie

Following is a quick breakdown of how to treat a sunburn from the Sunburn Resource:

1. When treating sunburn, it is very important to prevent further damage or irritation. To prevent sunburned skin from getting worse, keep from further direct exposure to the sun, and stay indoors as much as possible.

2. Closely observe the affected areas for blisters. When blisters are present, this means that the skin has been severely damaged, and complications are highly probable. Don’t try to break them, or you’ll increase the risk of infection. If blisters are present on a large area of the skin, get to a hospital’s emergency room immediately. Other instances that warrant medical attention right away are when severe swelling causes breathing difficulty, when pain on the affected area is terrible, and when serious swelling occurs around the limbs such that it threatens to constrict blood flow and cause hands or feet to go numb or turn bluish. Too much sun exposure can also cause other related ailments, such as sun poison or heat stroke. When any of these are suspected or when high fever is detected, consult a doctor immediately.

3. Take pain relievers to help ease the pain and swelling. Aspirin and ibuprofen are examples of oral medications commonly taken to minimize these sunburn symptoms, but do avoid giving aspirin to a child or teenager. Also, consult a doctor before taking any pain killer if you’re also taking prescribed medication.

4. Drink lots of water. This will help you regain lost fluids in your body, as well as aid your system in its recovery from sunburn. Fresh fruit juice, such as watermelon, is also a good alternative. Avoid alcoholic and caffeinated beverages, as these may cause further dehydration.

5. Regularly apply a cool, soothing cream or aloe lotion to the affected area to keep it moist. Aloe extract has powerful healing properties, and is most effective in its pure form. Vitamin enriched lotions and moisturizers may also help speed healing. When treating moderate to severe burns, 1% hydrocortisone cream may also be used. Avoid using butter, oil, and strong ointments on burned skin, as these will only irritate and worsen sunburn symptoms.

On mountains like Denali, climbers must completely cover their skin.

6. Shower with cool water whenever possible. This should help ease the pain and discomfort on your skin until it begins to heal. Use very mild soap, and refrain from using abrasive personal skin products, such as exfoliating skin formulas and body scrubs to avoid irritation.

7. Wear loose-fitting clothes made of natural fibers, such as cotton or silk, as sunburned skin tends to be extremely sensitive, and harsher fabrics will do more harm than good. When heading outdoors, wear long sleeved shirts and long pants that cover the affected areas.

8. Leave peeling skin alone. When your skin starts peeling, try your very best not to scratch, scrub or strip the dry skin off. The layer of skin underneath the peeling is still very sensitive, and will only lead to further skin damage when forcibly exposed. Just continue using moisturizer to help relieve itching and dryness.

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing, Coronavirus, and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 4/16/20

Northwest:

--There have been some serious tick reports at Mt. Erie. It appears that this is a biggish year for them. Or perhaps the lack of people has made them more focused on the few that are there.

--Tow trucks are towing cars at trailheads in North Bend to help enforce the city's stay-at-home order. North Bend tails include those for Mt. Si and the popular climbing area, Little Si. There are also rumors of towing on the national forest near Snoqualmie Pass (though those have not been confirmed). To read more, click here. To read a thread about the rumors, click here.

Sierra:

--Wildlife is returning in droves to Yosemite National Park, now that there are no people there. To read about it, click here.

--Here is a video of Yosemite, without people:



Desert Southwest:

--13 KTNV is reporting that, "Las Vegas police are stepping up patrols near Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area as people pack the public lands in the area. The Saturday before Red Rock’s scenic loop was closed, BLM officials say 10,000 people entered into the conservation area where there are only 800 parking spots." To read more, click here.

--Rock and Ice is reporting that, "A climber with a broken ankle was rescued Sunday from an area east of San Diego, near Descanso, in the Cuyamaca Mountains, according to an official with Cal Fire San Diego. An adult male believed to be 18, Cal Fire Captain Isaac Sanchez said, had fallen approximately 20 feet in the accident." To read more, click here.

Colorado and Utah:

--A climber was killed after his belay line was severed by rockfall. From Rock and Ice: "Wade Meade, a 29-year-old ski patroller at Park City, Utah, died in a climbing accident on Wednesday, April 8, in Big Cottonwood Canyon, outside Salt Lake City." To read more, click here.

--A climber was rescued from the Second Flatiron in Boulder last week. To read more, click here.

--Teton Gravity Research is reporting that, "More than twenty furloughed members of Vail Ski Patrol are in training to assist their local emergency medical services in the face of an expected surge of COVID-19 cases." To read more, click here.

--Zion National Park is now closed.

Notes from All Over:

--Outside is reporting that, "Sierra magazine and Type Investigations obtained an internal memo from the National Park Service’s Public Health Department to its deputy director of operations warning of dire consequences to the health of both park employees and local communities from the COVID-19 pandemic. In the memo, written on April 3, the department recommends that the National Park Service lock down all of its sites immediately." To read more, click here.

--Bear Tooth Basin Ski Area intends to reopen on May 30.

--Here is a running list of outdoor brands helping with the fight against COVID-19. Let's remember this!

Climbing, Coronavirus and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad -- 4/9/20

Northwest:

--Former president of the Seattle Mountaineers, Frank Fickeisen, passed away at the age of 93 this week. To read more, click here.

--The annual National Brotherhood of Skiers, a black skiers organization, had their annual get together in Ketchum, Idaho this year. The event at Sun Valley at the beginning of March, resulted in numerous COVID-19 infections among the 600-hundred attendees. To read more, click here. REI  produced an excellent film about this group last year. To see the film, click here.

--The Seattle Times is reporting that, "REI said it would keep its 162 retail locations shuttered and furlough many of its roughly 14,000 employees without pay for 90 days as the coronavirus pandemic continues to paralyze much of the bricks-and-mortar retail sector." To read more, click here.

--A new select guidebook is coming out for Squamish!

--In some excellent news, KOMO is reporting that, "A man who broke into dozens of vehicles at Mount Rainier and Olympic national parks has been sentenced to two years in federal prison after he serves a more than two-year state prison term." To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--A rescue team was caught in an avalanche near Donner Pass on Saturday. Thankfully, there were no injuries. To read more, click here.

--With only 17 hospital beds, the town of Mammoth is hoping to put up a checkpoint on the highway to keep visitors who might bring the virus, out. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--KGUN 9 is reporting that, "Following Arizona Governor Doug Ducey's stay-at-home-order, the Pima County Sheriff’s Department has seen a spike in rescues on hiking trails." To read more, click here.

--The Grand Canyon has been closed.

--The Las Vegas Review-Journal is reporting that, "Free public trails near Scenic Drive in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area are closed until further notice. The trails are off Calico Basin Road and include Calico Basin, Kraft Mountain and Ash Spring trailheads; Gene’s Trail; Girl Scout Trail; Ash Spring Trail; Calico Overlook Trail; and Calico Basin Trail, according to Red Rock Canyon Las Vegas’ website." To read more, click here.

--A Southtwestern slackliner recently posted this dizzying drone video of slackliners in Red Rock Canyon. Though it's a bit "spinny," it's certainly a scenic video.




Colorado and Utah:

--The Salt Lake Tribune is reporting that, "The Bureau of Land Management is considering industry-driven requests to lease tens of thousands acres for oil and gas development near Arches and Canyonlands national parks. In recent months, firms sought to nominate up to 360 parcels on these scenic lands popular for dispersed outdoor recreation outside Moab." To read more, click here.

--The Summer Outdoor Retailer show has been cancelled. This is one of the biggest events in the outdoor industry. To read more, click here.

--Unofficial Networks is reporting that, "CEO Rob Katz announced through a press release VAIL Resorts has deferred all chairlift construction projects, terrain expansion and improvements to base areas. This includes projects planned for Beaver Creek, Breckenridge, Keystone and Okemo. The suspension will save the company $80-85 million." To read more, click here.

--The Durango Herald is reporting that, "Trail systems serve as the lifeblood for Durango outdoor recreation. Keeping those networks open during the coronavirus pandemic is important to public officials, but trail closures are a real possibility because of users who do not follow public health ordinances." To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--Here is a comprehensive list of closed North American climbing gyms. Remember, you can support them now by purchasing punch cards for future use.

--National Park employees are being muzzled.

--In some good news, a previously unprotected piece of the Pacific Crest Trail has been purchased by the Pacific Crest Trail Association. To read more, click here.

--#Vanlife is not very quarantine friendly. Christina Hadley at Outside writes about how hard it is to negotiate this crisis while living out of a vehicle. Check it out, here.

--As pollution has decreased, the Himalaya has become visible in India. To see a photo, click here.

A Climber's Guide to Checking Bolt Security

We use bolts nearly every day in our climbing. But many climbers don't take much time to assess them. Following is a short tutorial on bolt assessment.

Expansion Bolts:

There are two modern types of expansion bolts that are commonly used in climbing. The first is the sleeve bolt. This is characterized by a static nut on the surface of the rock, and a sleeve within the rock. When the bolt is tightened on the surface a small wedge inside the sleeve within the rock is maneuvered up toward the head, expanding the bolt. The second type is a wedge bolt. These are characterized by threads on the surface of the rock. Wedge bolts have one or two static cones and a sleeve that moves when you tighten the bolt on the surface. As you tighten the bolt, the sleeve moves up over the cone, "wedging" the bolt in the rock.

This anchor is constructed with sleeve bolts and mussy hooks.

This rusty and dangerous bolt is a wedge bolt.

In this image, the bolt is galvanized and the hanger is stainless steel. 

Incongruent materials (the combination of two different types of steel)

can also be dangerous.

The following video from the British Mountaineering Council discusses several ways to check a bolt while climbing.



Following are some from the video, as well as a few additional thoughts.

1) Make sure that the bolt is at least a hand's-width away from any cracks or edges.
2) Check the hanger for movement. Does it rotate? Or is it loose? If a bolt is loose and you elect to tighten it, don't crank on it, as you can damage the bolt or rock. Tighten until is is snug, and then put very light force (10-15lbs) on the nut.
3) Check the bolt for movement. If the bolt is loose, there's little you can do.
4) Is there damage or corrosion? Are the materials incongruent? Rusty bolts/hangers can snap off.
5) (Not in the video) If there is a significant amount of thread sticking out of the top of a nut on a wedge bolt, that can be a red flag. How much of the bolt is actually in the rock?
6) (Not in the video) Did the person who placed the bolt combine techniques? In other words, is the bolt both glued and mechanically engaged? There are some legitimate reasons that someone might do that, but more commonly the person didn't know what they were doing.

For more information on older-style mechanical bolts, click here.

Glue-In Bolts:

Glue-ins, if there placed appropriately, are extremely strong. Here's a short video on glue-in assessment for climbers:


In review:

1) Is the bolt in good solid rock, away from cracks or edges?
2) Does the bolt move?
3) Is there wear on the bolt from people lowering off?

The reality is that you may be forced to use a bad bolt in a lot of different types of situations. The goal is to identify red flags and then to build an additional safety cushion. Sometimes you can avoid the use of one of these bolts, and sometimes you can't. But at least -- after evaluation -- you know where you stand...

--Jason D. Martin

Alpine Rescue: A Theatrical Production

Many of you are aware that I have a background in playwriting and directing. I used to be a high school drama teacher and have an MFA in Theatre Arts. As such, nothing touches me as much as fun, funny theatrical productions that combine my passions for the outdoors and the mountains.

This short play, written and performed by Kurt Quinn at The Groundlings in Los Angeles as part of Advanced Lab, is awesome, and very funny. It is well-worth the five minutes it will take to watch it:


--Jason D. Martin

Accessible Alpine Rock Classics in Rocky Mountain National Park

There are only a few peaks in Rocky Mountain National Park that offer both relatively short approaches and "classic" (read: trade route) climbing: Hallett Peak and Notchtop. Both approaches offer modest elevation change at ~1,600-1,700 feet of gain from the Bear Lake Trailhead (same trailhead for both peaks). Mileage is also modest, especially when compared to 12-16 mile days for objectives on Longs or in Glacier Gorge.

Descending from Hallett Peak, the peak on the left side of the photo. Photo Chris Brinlee

Hallett Peak 

Hallett Peak has several routes of 3-4 star quality from 5.7-5.9. When paired with the 1.8 mile approach and 1,600 feet of elevation gain, the North Face of Hallett Peak is undisputedly the lowest hanging fruit for alpine rock in the area. Routes range from 850 to 1,000+ feet and even includes the mega-classic Culp-Bossier (III, 5.8+).

A climber on pitch 4 of the Culp-Bossier on Hallett Peak

The North Face of Hallett Peak is gneiss, and as such its crack systems aren't continuous (especially when compared to other parts of RMNP like the Diamond, or California's Sierra granite) so protection is variable. For trade routes like Culp-Bossier, the 5.8 climbing has great protection but runouts are substantial at 5.6. Additionally, route-finding on the upper face can also be challenging, though many stretches of the wall offer positive edges as a reprieve from the runouts and route-finding difficulties. Trad leaders who are used to multi-pitch routes in more amicable venues such as Red Rock will want to be cautious about selecting this wall as their first alpine rock route in the area.

A climber on the final pitch of the Culp-Bossier, Hallett Peak

Notchtop

Notchtop offers numerous classics at a variety of grades from Spiral Route (II, 5.4-5.6) to Direct South Buttress (III, 5.9). It's a slightly longer approach than Hallett, with just over 3 miles and 1,700 feet of gain but many of the routes will go quicker than Hallett, offering a similar length of day for competent parties climbing at or below their comfort grade.

Direct South Buttress (III, 5.9) is a favorite at the grade, for many RMNP climbers. It's steep, exposed, and offers quality crack climbing in a heroic position, what more can you ask for! The route goes up the peak's prow in the photo below.

A climber looking up at Notchtop from the base

Spiral Route gets overlooked by climbers seeking more sustained 5th class, but for those looking for a fun and moderate alpine day, this route is a must with 3-5 pitches from 5.0-5.4 interspersed with 2nd-4th class terrain. Near the top, one can tack on "Morning" (two pitches, 5.7) to add more technical climbing to the day. 

A climber low on Spiral Route, Notchtop

The descent off Notchtop has two common options: the 4th class ridge descent or three 60m double rope rappels. The ridge descent is engaging and can be time consuming for parties new to traveling in traversing ridge terrain. The rappels are relatively straightforward, though one will need to bring a second 60 meter rope.

Several other routes exist on both peaks described in this post at a variety of grades. Both peaks also offer incredible winter recreation opportunities. Hallett Peak (and Tyndall Gorge, where it is located) gifts climbers with challenging ice and mixed routes like the Great Dihedral (III, M5) and snow couloir climbing like Dragontail Couloir, which also serves as a popular ski mountaineering objective in the spring. Notchtop's aforementioned "Spiral Route" also makes for a challenging yet fun winter climb, making these "short-approach" destinations a year-round gift for climbers, skiers, and snowshoers. Regardless of the season, these peaks are not to be missed by any climber visiting RMNP (who has the requisite experience).    

Climbing, Coronavirus and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 4/2/20

If you have an old pair of ski goggles and want to help with the coronavirus fight, click here. Some health care workers still don't have eye protection.

Northwest:

--A teenage Canadian climber was rescued after falling on Mt. Hood this week. To read more, click here.

--They have stopped clearing the North Cascades Highway. From the Washington State Department of Transportation, "On March 26, Secretary of Transportation Roger Millar suspended most maintenance work due to COVID-19 safety concerns, and implemented an “Essential Maintenance” approach to further comply with the state’s Stay Home, Stay Healthy order to safeguard public health. Under these guidelines, we have paused most maintenance across the state, including work to reopen the North Cascades Highway. Similar work pauses are occurring on Cayuse and Chinook Passes." To read more, click here.

--Mt. Hood National Forest is closing, everything. From OregonLive: "Closures will affect all trailheads, sno-parks, day-use areas, campgrounds, fire lookouts and cabins within the national forest." To read more, click here.

--Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest has closed facilities and campgrounds, but the forest remains open.

--The Summit at Snoqualmie has closed uphill skiing.

--Washington State Parks are now completely closed. Early in the crisis, they only closed the campgrounds. To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--A couple of Yosemite locals are making coronavirus masks...

--Medium is reporting that, "Mono County, home of Mammoth Mountain, has the highest per capita COVID-19 rate in California; Data shows counties with ski resorts have higher rates than urban areas." To read more, click here.

Colorado and Utah:

--Rescue crews were forced to respond to a skier triggered avalanche near Colorado's Telescope Mountain on Tuesday. To read more, click here.

--From March 27th:

--The National Parks Traveler is reporting that, "Though visitation to Zion National Park reportedly has fallen greatly since the park's campgrounds and lodge were closed, rangers on Thursday had to rescue two area residents who suffered injuries in the park." To read more, click here.

--Arches and Canyonlands are closed.

Notes from All Over:

--Jackson Hole News and Guide is reporting that, "Rescuers have yet to find the man who was buried in an avalanche on Taylor Mountain. The search will continue early Thursday morning. Members of the public are asked to avoid the Coal Creek parking area as it will be closed for search efforts. Skiers are asked to avoid Teton Pass altogether on Thursday." To read more, click here.

--The Billings Gazette is reporting on a climbing accident in Montana: "A man injured after an approximately 50-foot fall while rappelling in a remote area near the Stillwater River Trail was rescued over the weekend after about 12 hours of work from multiple first responder groups." To read more, click here.

--Snowking Mountain in Jackson is still open to skinners who keep their social distance. They have done a fundraiser to keep the groomer going. To read more, click here.

--But the reality is that regular operations in North American ski resorts are over, likely for the season.

--Here is an updated list of climbing area closures.

--Northern Michigan's Shaggy Skis has switched outdoor gear to medical mask production. To read more, click here. So has Outdoor Research. And others...!

--Teton Gravity Research is reporting that, "the section of trail leading up Tuckerman Ravine's Headwall is now closed to all use according to the Mt. Washington Avalanche Center. According to a press release,the section 'extends from Lunch Rocks to the top of the Headwall, where it meets the Alpine Garden Trail. The closure includes skiing and riding the Lip and Sluice.' If you don't know what any of those things are, then you probably should avoid Tuckerman Ravine." Over 400 people were trying to ski this over the weekend. To read more, click here.

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People always say hindsight is 20/20 🤦‍♂️

A post shared by Sean McColl (@mccollsean) on Apr 1, 2020 at 9:45am PDT

--The Tokyo Olympics and climbing's big debut on the world stage has been postponed until 2021. To read more, click here.

--And finally, climbers in France are being fined for breaking quarantine and climbing.