How to Uncoil a New Rope

You've just bought your brand new rope and you are extremely excited to pull it out and get some use out of it. You notice that it is bundled up in a nice tight little coil, and you think, "hey, this is perfect for my pack!" So you take it to the crag.

It's a beautiful day and you're itching to get on a route.  You pull the plastic wraps off the coil, you release the initial wraps, and then...you drop the coils on the ground.

Opps.

Party foul.

Now the whole coil looks like spaghetti, and you spend the next hour trying to untangle the mess.

Sound familiar?

It's certainly happened to me.  And it's certainly happened to a lot of people I know.  And if it hasn't happened to you, it certainly can...

When you uncoil a new rope, you have to be very careful.  Essentially, you have to unspool the coil.  The most ideal way to do this is with a partner. One person puts his arms inside the coil, while the other carefully unspools the rest onto the ground.

This can certainly be done by an individual, but you have to be much more careful.

Following is a video (unfortunately not in English) which shows a technique for uncoiling a new rope.



Happy climbing!

--Jason D. Martin

October - November Events

-- Oct 1 - Nov. 5 -- Various Southeast Locations -- Triple Crown Bouldering Comp

-- Oct 7 - 8 -- Seattle, WA -- Mountainfilm Tour

-- Oct 7 - 9 -- Red River Gorge, KY -- Rocktoberfest

-- Oct 9 -- Red Rock, NV -- Coffee with a Ranger

-- Oct 15 - 16 -- Tucson, AZ -- UClimb Event

-- Oct 15 -- Seattle, WA -- NW Boulderfest

-- Nov 12 -- Red Rock, NV -- Coffee with a Ranger

-- Nov 29 -- Bellingham, WA -- Banff Mt. Film Festival

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Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!!

Well, ladies and gentlemen, it's that season again. It's that magical time of the year when the warmth of the summer is starting to wain, but the snows and cold of winter have not yet arrived. This transitional period, often referred to as "Fall" or "Autumn" (or "The Rainy Season" by some of us in the Northwest) is known by a different name to many outdoor enthusiasts. That name is "Outdoor Film Season." Yes, it's that time of the year when the projectors start humming with all the new releases to get you psyched for the upcoming winter. There are some amazing shots in this seasons crop of new releases. Enjoy!

The first clip here is from Red Bull's "The Art of Flight," which premiered in Jackson on Sept. 24, and is heavy on both the "Art" and the "Flight."




This next clip is the trailer for this years Reel Rock Film tour. Check out www.facebook.com/REELROCK to see when the tour is coming to your neck of the woods!



And for those of you that have some time on your hands, 4FRNT has a full release of their latest, "Loyalty"! Grab some popcorn and enjoy!

Loyalty - A Ski Film by 4FRNT from 4FRNT Skis on Vimeo.

Have a great weekend!

American Alpine Institute Used Gear Sale - Today and Tomorrow!

The American Alpine Institute used gear sale is in full swing right now.  Here are a few pictures from the event:

The Ever-Popular Richard Riquelme

The Shop Basement is chocked full of great new and used equipment!

Want crampons or climbing gear cheap? We got it!

Hank and Stephen in front of the shop this morning.

Today, Friday, is day one of the two-day blow-out. Tomorrow will be even more exciting as AAI Guide Kurt Hicks will be doing climbing clinics adjacent to the sale, all day long!


--Jason D. Martin

Somethin' 'bout Nothin': Kelly Cordes on Alpinism

In the following video, climbing writer, former American Alpine Institute Guide and Patagonia product tester Kelly Cordes discusses his training techniques and his style of climbing. Cordes refers to his alpine climbing strategy as "disaster style."

Clinics and Gear Sale - Sept. 30-Oct. 1

Click on Image to Enlarge

The Equipment Shop at the American Alpine Institute in Bellingham will be having its huge, in-store new and used equipment sale on September 30th and October 1st.

Save up 60% on new in-store merchandise and up to 75% on used Rental Equipment. Get a raffle ticket for every $25 spent and win course vouchers of up to $750 and lots of other prizes!

In addition to the sale, AAI guides will be presenting free climbing clinics!

Following is the schedule:

Sale, Friday September 30th, 8-6

Sale and Free Clinics: Saturday, October 1st, 9 to 4 (Sale is officially 8 AM - 2PM, but may go longer)

9am - Crevasse Rescue Techniques

10:30am - Avalanche Beacon Search

12:00pm - Rock Rescue Techniques: Passing a Knot/Lowering an injured partner

1:30pm - Rock Rescue Techniques: Escaping the Belay

3:00pm - Crevasse Rescue Techniques

If you would like to attend one of the clinics, please contact us to sign up at either: info@aai.cc or call the Equipment Shop at 360-671-1570.

Additional raffle tickets may be purchased to benefit both the American Safe Climbing Association and the North Cascades Institute.

The Equipment Shop at the American Alpine Institute is located at 1513 12th Street, Bellingham, WA, on the corner of 12th Avenue and Old Fairhaven Parkway.

Thanks for your support and see you there!

--Jason D. Martin

September - October Events

-- Sept 26 -- Seattle, WA -- Former AAI Guide speaking on Coffee

-- Sept 26 - Oct 1 -- Yosemite Valley, CA -- International Climbers' Meet 

-- Sept 30 - Leavenworth, WA -- Mt. Waddington Slide Show

-- Sept 30 - Oct 1 -- Bellingham, WA -- AAI Equipment Shop New and Used Gear Sale!!!

-- Oct 1 -- Portland, OR -- RBCC Meet and Greet Party

-- Oct 1 - Nov. 5 -- Various Southeast Locations -- Triple Crown Bouldering Comp

-- Oct 7 - 8 -- Seattle, WA -- Mountainfilm Tour

-- Oct 7 - 9 -- Red River Gorge, KY -- Rocktoberfest 

-- Oct 15 - 16 -- Tucson, AZ -- UClimb Event 

-- Oct 20 - 24 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Chicks Rock Fall Clinic