Monday, December 7, 2009

AAI Guide Claims First Ascent in the Cascades

AAI Guide, Kevin Hogan and friends recently completed what they believe to be a first ascent on the Mount Snoqulmie massif in the Cascades. Following is a trip report that was originally posted on

Medved, Taluscat and I headed up yesterday to Snowqualmie to have a look Pineapple Express. After botching the approach courtesy of the guidebook, we decided the route wasn't in amenable condition to allow a fast ascent, so we had a poke at a line on the subpeak to the right of Snoqualmie. We are tentatively calling the route Calvin Klimb until somebody tells us we're a bunch of wankers and the line was first done in the 50's. It is the second major corner from right on the subpeak.

First pitch was a nice mixed lead of snice, ice and frozen turf with good protection to a tree belay (60M). A blue alien was key to the crux. Second pitch was mostly easy snow to an airy traverse on good rock and a cam belay (55M). Third pitch headed up the corner system in moderate snice to a tree belay (55M), and a short bit of steep snow and mixed scramble got us to the summit of the subpeak and a nice whiff of Stanibaby's cologne. We did the route in M4 conditions, but once better ice forms up the route should be easier.

Gear notes- cams to 4" and a selection of knifeblades, a stubby screw might be possible if there were any ice.

Kevin Hogan, Stanislav Zinkov, Lewis Rogers
Calvin Klimb 5.8 AI3 60 degree 200M

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