While researching a topic for the blog, I found this very interesting video. A couple of guides go to the Sterling Rope Factory to test how heat on belay/rappel devices impact ropes...
A little bit disconcerting...
The dangerous situation that the guide in the video describes is very unlikely. It is extremely unlikely that each climber's device will stop at the exact same point. However, knowing that this is an issue is a good thing. While the situation is unlikely, that doesn't mean it's impossible. Being aware of the potential problem could help keep it from becoming reality.
--Jason D. Martin
Friday, January 15, 2010
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2 comments:
Not really disconcerting at all. They showed that they belay device has to get to over 400 degrees before it starts to melt the rope. they did not show anywhere in the testing that 200 degrees damages a rope at all. There was a conclusion at the end that 200 degrees could damage a rope but it was not backed up by fact at all. If the rope takes 400 degrees to be damaged it should not matter how many 200 degree devices are put on the rope or for how long they are left there. Nylon is not changed thermally till above 400 degrees, we are not going to reach that in a typical climbing situation.
Its like he's saying you can boil water by heating it to 50° C for a few moments several times in succession. The fact is it just ain't going to happen.
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