Tell me if this
sounds familiar. You've been climbing for awhile and are solid
leading both rock and ice. You have been to a lot of the destination
climbing areas in the continental US and done a lot of the classic
routes. You're excited about the mountains and want to take your
climbing to the next level but you don't know where to start...
You're not alone.
You're not alone.
While many
climbers dream of trips to the Ruth Gorge, Peru or the Himalaya –
few actually go. It's too expensive, they say. I'm not ready. The
logistics are too complicated. While it's true that a trip to
Alaska or abroad has many risk factors (like the possibility of not
climbing due to weather, for one) the rewards can be proportionally
immense. What's more, you don't need to be Colin Haley
speed-soloing the Infinite Spur to enjoy them! The following is a
step by step guide for the rest of us. The skills you need (and
misconceptions you don't) in order to take your passion to Alaska and
beyond.
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| The Ruth Gorge at twilight. From L to R: Mt. Church, Wake, and Johnson. Photo Credit: Max Neale |
Step 1: Get the
Right Attitude
This might
sound cliché but it's true. The first step towards becoming
comfortable on bigger terrain is belief. My brother is a college
professor and he once told me about a nearly universal phenomenon he
encounters that he calls imposter syndrome. This is when first year
graduate students in rigorous academic settings suffer from the
delusion that they don't belong. They feel that the work is too
hard, that everyone else is smarter than them, and that they must
have gotten in to the program by mistake. The same can be true of
climbers attempting a big peak for the first time. While there is
wisdom in restraint, you will never push your level if you don't
actively try things that are uncomfortable. Once you get there,
Alaska is just like everywhere else. The judgement and skill you
have honed in other ranges will still apply. What's more, your
comfort zone will begin to expand as you put yourself in increasingly
more challenging and complex situations. We all started somewhere.
A simple willingness to give it a shot can ease a lot of the stigma
associated with planning a big trip.
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| The author taking some ski laps on a rest day in the Ruth Gorge. Photo Credit: Max Neale |
Step 2: Get
Comfortable on Glaciers
Most American
climbers today tend to focus on technically challenging rock, ice and
mixed objectives. Why would you hike a big pack uphill for two
days to the summit of Mount Rainier when you could be sending WI5?
That other thing sounds easy and boring! For many, this is
unfortunately true. I say unfortunately because modern technical
gear and the evolution of fast and light alpine style ascents has
lead to some significant skill deficits among many technically gifted
climbers.
This can
become a problem when heading to Alaska. On a big expedition, for
every hour you'll spend climbing that sick mixed pitch you'll
probably spend ten hours slogging through ice falls, climbing steep
snow slopes, and camping. If these skills aren't ones that you
practice regularly then intentionally honing them before your trip
will greatly increase your margin of safety. So if you're one of those who thinks the hip belay hasn't been used since
the 1950's and probably has no place in modern climbing anyway, I suggest you think again and get to work. Take a course, learn about
crevasse rescue and haul systems; learn about roping up, body belays,
how to place snow protection and get slogging (and no - starting and not finishing the snow climbing chapter in Freedom of the Hills for the umpteenth time doesn't count). When figuring out how
to route-find on glaciers there is no substitute for experience.
You'll thank me later.
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| The author on the east ridge of Mount Logan, YT, Canada. Photo Credit: Dan Sandberg |
Step 3: Get
Planning
For many, this
step is the most daunting. Where to begin? While it is much more
complex overall, the beginning planning stages of a big expedition
are the same as a trip to the local crag. Pick a route and get beta.
For your first trip, it makes sense to pick an objective that is
well below your technical skill level. That way, the additional
stress of being in a large remote environment will seem more
manageable. The Ruth Gorge is a great venue because there are
several peaks within a few miles of each other that have great routes
of relatively low technical difficulty (the west face of Mount Dickey
or the Japanese Couloir on Mt. Barrill are two examples). It is also
recommended to pick a few alternative objectives so you can adapt to
changing conditions. If you plan to climb an ice and snow route,
it's probably smart to have a rock or mixed climb in your back pocket
in case your main objective is out of shape.
Once you have
your route(s) picked out it's time to get scientific. Do lots of
research and make lists. Google Docs is a great tool for this. You
can start a multi-tab spread sheet that you and your partner can
manage simultaneously from different locations. Make a gear list.
Make a projected itinerary. Make a meal plan according to your
projected caloric needs. List your expenses. The important thing is
to focus on the details and write it all down. On multi-day climbing
trips in the continental US it can be easy to wing it. Not this
time.
Additionally,
it's important to organize a communication and emergency plan. Is
there someone who can send you weather reports? Will you bring a Sat
phone or an In-reach? What will you do in case of emergency? Make
sure you have the contact information for the park service and the
flight service stored in your device and independently of it (i.e. in
a notebook somewhere). It can also be useful to have a friend or
family member serve as an emergency contact. Plan to check in with
them on a regular basis. It is best if this person has some
backcountry experience and intimate knowledge of your itinerary.
That way, if you go missing or need to coordinate a rescue, someone
will know sooner rather than later.
There is lots
of information out there to help you. Both in guidebooks and on the
internet. While the planning phase will probably seem like an
obstacle at first (and it is undeniably a lot of work) it can
actually be quite fun once you get into it. Just think, you get to
spend your days planning a dream trip to one of the Earth's great
ranges and then actually do it! Amazing!
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| The author preparing for Alaska during a one day winter ascent of the Gerber-Sink route on Dragontail Peak. Photo Credit: Chris Simrell |
Step 4: Get
Training
I won't write
much here since there are whole books on the subject (I'm sure all of
you probably have an unread copy of Training for the New Alpinism
sitting on your coffee table right now as a matter of fact...).
Suffice it to say that physical and mental training is important.
There can be a lot of deep snow up in Alaska and fitness is often the
difference between victory and defeat. Speed is safety and whatever
you get on, you want to try to get off of as soon as humanly possible
to minimize your exposure to risk. Similarly, depending on your
route, there are times when you might have to go for it, even if the
protection and conditions aren't great. You should also expect to be
extra stressed by the size and remoteness of your objective. As a
result it pays to get your head in order before you go. That said,
if the mental game is something you worry about, chose an easier
route. There is no need to climb any ice or rock at all to enjoy the
Alaska range! See previous route recommendations.
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| The author climbs typical mixed ground on the SW ridge of Peak 11,300. Photo Credit: Will Dean |
Step 5: Get
Saving
So finally we
come to it. The dreaded question. How much will this damn thing
cost? I know you probably spent your last dime on a sick sprinter
van but it's also not as expensive as you might think. If you're
judicious and plan ahead, $1500 - $2000 is plenty to get you a
two-week trip to the range. This might sound steep as that amount of
money could buy you six months of van dwelling. It'll be up to each
individual to set their own priorities. I know what mine are. The
point is that you can probably do it if you want to. Maybe you have
to adjust your lifestyle from climbing all the time to working and
training most of the time and trying one or two serious objectives a
year? Everybody's situation is different. As long as we're clear
that you don't have to be a sponsored crusher or a climbing guide to
enjoy the Alaskan backcountry.
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| The west ridge of the Moose's Tooth. Photo Credit: Max Neale |
So gear up, save up and get after it. As the weather begins to turn cooler and fall sets in, it's the perfect time to plan a big adventure. And in the spring, when the days lengthen, and new light sparkles on Alaskan granite; reflecting uncountable flows of untouched ice, I'll be there. Will you?
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