This last weekend I climbed the NW Face of Forbidden Peak. It was my most enjoyable climb this year due both to the terrain and the good friends I spent the weekend with.
The hike in to Boston Basin is always enjoyable, despite the steep overgrown trail. Once above treeline the views are amazing. Our objective, Forbidden Peak can be seen in the center of the photo above.
We stopped along the way and made dinner since we had a long way to go the first night. After that we continued over Sharkfin Col and dropped down onto the Boston Glacier and our camp right at dark.
Looking back across the Boston Glacier toward Mt. Buckner, and Boston Peak.
Pat at the top of the dirt gully.
At least the going looked easy on the other side.
Now we were on the Forbidden Glacier, and we could at least see our objective ridge.
However, getting to the ridge was not as easy as we thought it might be. Route finding through crevasses on a steep part of the glacier made for a couple dead ends.
Sunrise on Eldorado Peak. Time to start climbing.
The climb itself was abosolutly stellar. The rock was great, and the climbing was enjoyable.
This shot shows all of the ridge from the knife edge traverse to the summit. The crux of the route lies just on the other side of the knife edge ridge. The chimney mentioned in Beckey's book was beyond the actual crux of the route one pitch below. The crux was full on 5.8 climbing made harder by the fact that I did not worry too much about going light on this trip carrying two camera lenses and a tripod in addition to several other luxury items.
Looking back across the knife edge ridge at Barry. The crux of the route came just after this pitch.
Pat climbing into the belay with Eldorado Peak in the background.
Pat is getting a little sick of me and my new camera lens.
Barry looking down the entire ridge from near the top.
Degay on the summit.
To see more, check out my blog at http://alasdairturner.blogspot.com/
--Alasdair Turner, AAI Guide