I find that one question comes up over and over again when I work with intermediate level climbers...and it's not, "where can I get a cool minivan with Cheerios mashed into the floor and preschool age car seats like that?" Or, "where can I get an awesome pair of pants with holes in the knees like that?"
No, instead it has to do with carabiners. And it has to do with cordelletes.
Some climbers clip each independent piece to a cordellete with locking carabiners. They then tie off the cordellete and clip into the powerpoint with locking carabiners. When asked to explain their decision, they usually come out with some rendition of, "it's safer."
It is perfectly fine to use non-lockers on each independent piece. This is because most traditional anchors have three or four pieces in them. There is redundancy in the system because you have clipped all three or four pieces.
I can already hear the chorus. "But what about sport anchors?"
It is absolutely fine to use two non-lockers on bolts or chains clipped to slings or draws, which then have lockers at the powerpoint.
Lockers are life-points. In other words, if you are clipped directly into something, it should be with a locker. If there are a lots of carabiners in the system, clipped to lots of things, then there is redundancy.
--Jason D. Martin
Friday, August 31, 2012
Tuesday, August 28, 2012
Bear Encounters
Prior to working as a mountain guide, I was a high school teacher with a lot of free time in the summer. The free time was great. I definitely got out and climbed as much as I possibly could. But I also had the time to pick-up a part-time job in the mountains.
For nearly ten years, I spent part of my summer as a field tech doing fish habitat surveys. Most of the surveys took place in remote streambeds throughout Washington, Idaho and Southeast Alaska. And most of the time I was in bear country.
In the place where the bears get their food.
While the salmon were spawning...
American Black Bear
From Wikepedia
Needless to say, we had a lot of bear encounters. In Southeast Alaska, we averaged one to two bear encounters a day. Most of the time, you would see a bear fishing in the creek nearby. A loud yell, a hoot or a holler was usually more than enough to scare most up into the woods. Most didn't want anything to do with us.
Most...
Occasionally a bear would be curious. They wouldn't run up into the woods after we yelled at them. These were the scary bears.
Bear safety is an incredibly important part of wilderness travel in bear country. And while bear attacks are incredibly rare, they do happen. There are a number of common sense safety tips that all backcountry users should be aware of:
Grizzly Bears
From Wikepedia
If you do run into a bear, remain calm. Don't run away or otherwise provoke it. If you run, you may actually initiate the bear's predatory instinct and it will probably chase you. If it does chase you, it will probably catch you...so don't run.
Obviously you should give any bear that you encounter plenty of room. Make sure it knows you're there by making noise, but don't surprise it. If the bear is in your way and won't leave the trail, find a way to detour around it.
If a bear notices you, try to get the bear to understand that you are a human by talking to it in a normal voice or waving your arms. Sometimes a bear will come closer or even stand on its hind legs to get a better look or smell. Usually a standing bear is just curious, and shouldn't be seen as an escalating threat.
Occasionally a bear will charge. Most charges are bluffs and the bear will veer away at the last second. Do not run if a bear charges. Instead, you should stand still until the bear makes his bluff. After this has happened, slowly back away from the animal.
Polar Bear
Photo from Wikepedia
Some charging bears will be distracted by an item thrown to the side. If a bear is distracted by a thrown hat or trekking pole, back slowly away. Do not throw food for the bear to chase. He might like it and think that you have more.
Bears can climb trees. So climbing a tree to get away from a bear is really not a very good idea.
Many backcountry users carry pepper spray. It is important that you know exactly how the spray works before using it on an animal. Practice with it before carrying it. And never use it unless you believe that your life is in jeopardy.
If a Bear Attacks:
There are three major categories of bears: black bears, grizzly bears (called brown bears or brownies in Alaska), and polar bears. Each of these bears will attack for different reasons.
Black bears tend to attack when they are hungry. As a result, the old idea that you should play dead during an attack wouldn't be very effective. The bear will keep at it in order to feed himself. If attacked by a black bear, fight back vigorously, yell and scream at it. Try to scare it away. Try to make it think that you're too much work to deal with...
Grizzly bears are responsible for most of the bear-attacks and fatalities in North America. Usually, a grizzly is attacking because it sees you as a threat. It is in these attacks that you should try to play dead. Lie face down and cover the back of your neck with your hands. Spread your legs to keep the bear from rolling you over. If you are wearing a pack, keep it on in order to protect your back. Usually the bear will end the attack once he believes that there is no longer a threat. Lay motionless until the bear has left the area.
Obviously it's important to know what kind of bear is what. Your self-defense in an attack is dependent on this. Following is a excerpt from an article about bear safety by Darren Smith:
While polar bear attacks are the most rare kind of attack, they are almost universally fatal. Polar bears attack because they see you as food. So there are three things that one must do in polar bear country. First, don't get attacked. Second, if you do, shoot the animal or hope that someone else does. And third, if you don't have a gun or bear spray, get eaten by the animal.
It is important to have a good understanding of bear safety whenever you are in the backcountry. A good understanding of the proper ettiquete and protocals in such an area could save your life.
--Jason D. Martin
For nearly ten years, I spent part of my summer as a field tech doing fish habitat surveys. Most of the surveys took place in remote streambeds throughout Washington, Idaho and Southeast Alaska. And most of the time I was in bear country.
In the place where the bears get their food.
While the salmon were spawning...
American Black BearFrom Wikepedia
Most...
Occasionally a bear would be curious. They wouldn't run up into the woods after we yelled at them. These were the scary bears.
Bear safety is an incredibly important part of wilderness travel in bear country. And while bear attacks are incredibly rare, they do happen. There are a number of common sense safety tips that all backcountry users should be aware of:
- In the Sierra, never leave a cooler in your car. Bears in that region know exactly what a cooler is and what's inside. The result is that they will destroy your vehicle to get to the cooler's contents.
- Never cook or store food inside your tent. Create a cooking area that is away from your camp and use bear canisters or bear bags to store food. If you hang food, be sure that it is really hung in a way that a crafty bear won't get to it. Garbage should be kept with food.
- Campsites need to be cleaned well. Watch out for food microtrash that has a scent.
- Try to keep food smells off of your clothing.
- Avoid surprising bears. If it is difficult to see, make noise as your travel, sing songs, talk loudly or wear a bear bell.
- While bears are active day and night, they tend to be most active in the morning. Be wary if making an alpine start below treeline.
- Pay attention for hints that there are bears around. When I did fish habitat surveys we often saw fish swimming by that had bites taken out of them. This is an obvious hint. Less obvious is bear scat, tracks, areas where they've dug up the soil or even trees that they rub up against.
- Dogs are not welcome in bear country. Pets seem to arouse a bear's aggression, so leave them at home.
- Stay away from bear cubs and never get between a cub and its mother.
Grizzly BearsFrom Wikepedia
Obviously you should give any bear that you encounter plenty of room. Make sure it knows you're there by making noise, but don't surprise it. If the bear is in your way and won't leave the trail, find a way to detour around it.
If a bear notices you, try to get the bear to understand that you are a human by talking to it in a normal voice or waving your arms. Sometimes a bear will come closer or even stand on its hind legs to get a better look or smell. Usually a standing bear is just curious, and shouldn't be seen as an escalating threat.
Occasionally a bear will charge. Most charges are bluffs and the bear will veer away at the last second. Do not run if a bear charges. Instead, you should stand still until the bear makes his bluff. After this has happened, slowly back away from the animal.
Polar BearPhoto from Wikepedia
Bears can climb trees. So climbing a tree to get away from a bear is really not a very good idea.
Many backcountry users carry pepper spray. It is important that you know exactly how the spray works before using it on an animal. Practice with it before carrying it. And never use it unless you believe that your life is in jeopardy.
If a Bear Attacks:
There are three major categories of bears: black bears, grizzly bears (called brown bears or brownies in Alaska), and polar bears. Each of these bears will attack for different reasons.
Black bears tend to attack when they are hungry. As a result, the old idea that you should play dead during an attack wouldn't be very effective. The bear will keep at it in order to feed himself. If attacked by a black bear, fight back vigorously, yell and scream at it. Try to scare it away. Try to make it think that you're too much work to deal with...
Grizzly bears are responsible for most of the bear-attacks and fatalities in North America. Usually, a grizzly is attacking because it sees you as a threat. It is in these attacks that you should try to play dead. Lie face down and cover the back of your neck with your hands. Spread your legs to keep the bear from rolling you over. If you are wearing a pack, keep it on in order to protect your back. Usually the bear will end the attack once he believes that there is no longer a threat. Lay motionless until the bear has left the area.
Obviously it's important to know what kind of bear is what. Your self-defense in an attack is dependent on this. Following is a excerpt from an article about bear safety by Darren Smith:
There are some obvious physical differences between the American Black Bear (Ursus americanus) and the Grizzly Bear (Ursus arctos horribilis). Color, however, is not a reliable identifying characteristic for either species. Not all black bears are black in color; they come in a various shades of brown and may even be blonde. Grizzly bears range from yellowish-brown to black. When looking from the side, a black bear has a straight facial profile (from the forehead to the nose). The same profile of a grizzly bear will have a dished out appearance. Also, a black bear will have a straighter shoulder-rump line, while the grizzly will have a characteristically large hump on it's back above the shoulders. The black bear has claws which are shorter and more curved than those of the grizzly bear.
While polar bear attacks are the most rare kind of attack, they are almost universally fatal. Polar bears attack because they see you as food. So there are three things that one must do in polar bear country. First, don't get attacked. Second, if you do, shoot the animal or hope that someone else does. And third, if you don't have a gun or bear spray, get eaten by the animal.
It is important to have a good understanding of bear safety whenever you are in the backcountry. A good understanding of the proper ettiquete and protocals in such an area could save your life.
--Jason D. Martin
Monday, August 27, 2012
Grizzly Bear Fatally Attacks Backpacker in Denali National Park
The American Alpine Institute just received the following email:
Denali Park, AK: Denali National Park and Preserve officials confirm that a solo backpacker was killed by a grizzly bear along the Toklat River the afternoon of Friday, August 24. A wallet with probable identification of the victim was found near the kill site, and NPS rangers are working to make positive confirmation and notify next of kin.
Friday afternoon, three dayhikers first discovered an abandoned backpack along the Toklat River approximately 3 miles south of the Toklat River Rest Area. Upon further investigation, they saw evidence of a violent struggle, including torn clothing and blood. They immediately hiked back to the rest area and notified the NPS staff of the findings at approximately 5:30 pm.
Park rangers launched a helicopter and a fixed wing aircraft from park headquarters at 8:00 pm. Searchers on the aircraft located the scene at 8:35 pm. At least one grizzly bear was still at the site, although there may have been multiple bears. The bear(s) moved away when the helicopter approached and landed. Two rangers on board the helicopter got out and confirmed the location of the victim’s remains.
Initial evidence indicates that the attack occurred proximate to the river’s open braided gravel bar, although the bear subsequently dragged the remains to a more secluded, brushy cache site. After conducting an initial surveillance of the site, the rangers determined that the recovery of the remains would need to wait until daylight due to the presence of bears and the waning light.
Park officials believe that there are no other registered backpackers in the immediate vicinity. An emergency closure has been put in place, prohibiting all hiking and camping in that backcountry unit until further notice.
Park rangers returned to incident scene on Saturday morning, August 25, to secure the site, recover the remains, and attempted to locate the predatory bear. Wildlife biologists estimate that roughly 12 grizzly bears have been residing in the vicinity of the kill site this summer.
This incident is the first known bear mauling fatality recorded in Denali National Park and Preserve. All backpackers in the park receive mandatory ‘Bear Aware’ training prior to receiving a backcountry permit, including a 30-minute safety video, a safety briefing from the backcountry ranger staff, and all backpackers are required to carry a Bear Resistant Food Container (BRFC). http://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/bearsafety.htm
More details on this fatal incident will be released as the investigation continues.
For a description and photos of the terrain in the backcountry unit where the event took place, go to: www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/unit10.htm
Green Creek Glacier Exploratory Trip
The Green Creek
Glacier, found just south of the South Twin in the Twin Sisters Range, is an
alpine rock playground with most routes clocking in as mid-fifth class
“adventure climbs.” These are adventure routes because while the trailhead is
no more than thirty miles from Bellingham, the approach is serious and only
hardy climbers should make the trek into region.
I recently made my first foray into this region and found it to be an incredibly cool area. And in part it's cool because it is truly a wilderness area. Indeed, the approach requires a bunch of bushwacking and wilderness navigation.
The area is also cool because it is home to the "Bellingham Big Wall." For a number of years people referred to this as the Mythic Bellingham Big Wall, so when ascents finally began to take place on the wall around 2005, primarily pioneered by Darren Berdinka, the wall was dubbed the Mythic Wall.
There are a bunch of routes in the area, some older, some newer, but as I'd never been to that part of the Twin Sister Range, I thought it might be worth checking out.
Strong parties
can do routes on the Green Creek Glacier in a day. But strong doesn’t necessarily mean “I’m a good rock
climber, so I should be fine.” Instead, strong means that you can hike fast,
navigate through nearly impenetrable brush quickly, and then climb quickly.
Most parties should plan on two days or more in the region.
There are a few
things that you should consider before heading into the Green Creek Glacier.
First, it’s probably not even worth it in a month outside of July, August or
September. The creek crossings will be too difficult. Second, it should be completely
dry out. If there is any light rain, mist or even dew, you will get soaked to
the bone while fighting through the brush on the approach. And third, the climbs in this region,
while on somewhat sound rock, are still alpine in nature and many of them have
seen limited ascents.
It took us a long long time to get to the base of our route. We left the car at 6:30 in the morning and got back to the car at 8:30 at night...and we only did a three pitch route. Though it was an awesome day in an awesome area.
As the approach was 'hardy" and required some difficult navigation, I thought I'd do a little more than just your run of the mill photo essay. Below the essay, you will find some approach beta and even some route beta on the Green Creek Needle, the little peak we climbed...
Crossing the Middle Fork of the Nooksack.
On the way back, water was running over the logs and we had to crawl across them on our hands and knees.
There was a lot of map and compass action on this approach.
There were two major creek crossings that required us to search around for a suitable way cross.
This was the second, over the Greek Creek.
Our first views of the Green Creek Glacier and the peaks behind it.
As we moved up onto the glacier, the views continued to improve.
After our approach took so long, we decided that we would not climb one of the bigger walls.
We opted for the Green Creek Needle, the spire just left of center.
My partner, Dave Zulinke, leading a 5.4 pitch on the Needle.
Mount Baker
Dave working his way up the last pitch of the Needle.
Dave, after a successful ascent of the Green Creek Needle.
Approach and Route Beta
From
Bellingham, drive SR 542 east toward Mt. Baker for 16.7 miles. Turn right onto
Mosquito Lake Road and drive 4.7 miles to the Middle Fork Nooksack Road (FR
38). Follow the road for 11 miles to the Elbow Lake Trailhead (2,100’).
Take the Elbow
Lake trail to the Middle Fork of the Nooksack and find a way to cross. This is
the first of two difficult crossings on the approach. You should be willing to
bail on the whole trip if the water is too high on either crossing.
Once you are on
the other side of the river, pick up the Elbow Lake Trail again and walk for
approximately 1.5 miles to a switchback at 2,650’. It is mildly steep as you
leave the trail and enter “the bush.” Traverse down southwest to 2,600’ to
cross Hildebrand Creek. This is an easier crossing.
Climb out of the
drainage and continue to traverse at the 2,600 to 2,700-foot level to the Green
Creek and the second difficult crossing. The terrain is rough between the two
crossings and your elevation will vary. Once you find the Green, climb up
alongside the creek until you find a suitable crossing.
Once you have
attained the other side of the creek, the brush will become a bit thicker, but
fear not, you’re almost out!
Follow the Green
Creek up the drainage while slowly gaining altitude by angling up to the west.
The higher up the hillside you are, the less brush.
Eventually the
brush will begin to fade and you will encounter more and more little open
sections. This will eventually open up completely at a slidepath. From here the
travel is significantly easier. Continue up the drainage on talus to the base
of the Green Glacier at approximately the 4,000-foot level.
From the base of
the glacier, work up the left-hand (south) shoulder. There are a number of
flatish campsites at the top of the shoulder at nearly the same level as the
climbs (4,800’-5,000’). Parties who are on their first foray into the region
will commonly take five-hours for the approach. Those who are on their second
or third trips should be able to make the approach in four-hours.
Green Creek Needle, East Face (5.7, II)
FA: Tyree
Johnson and Darin Berdinka, September 2005
A super scenic
spire that stands out above the Greek Creek Glacier, the Needle is a summit
that just begs to be climbed.
Approach: The
Green Creek Needle is the obvious spire between Little Sister and Skookum
Peak. Work your way up the glacier
to the moat. Find a way to cross and gear up.
Pitch 1: Scramble
up third and fourth-class terrain to the base of a chimney. (90’) Be sure to
build a belay station in a place protected from rockfall.
Pitch 2: Climb
the easy chimney to the base of the final headwall. (5.4, 80’)
Pitch 3: Send
the beautiful face to the needle-like top of the spire. (5.7, 70’)
Descent: Rappel
the route.
Gear: Standard
to 3”, it may be good to double-up on small gear.
--Jason D. Martin
Sunday, August 26, 2012
September & August Climbing Events 2012
8/ 25 - 8/26 -- Munich, GER -- IFSC Climbing Worldcup
9/8 -- Boulder, CO -- Trailwork Days 9am to 4pm
9/14 -- Sunnyvale, CO -- Planet Granite Bloc Party
9/22 -- Flagstaff, AZ -- Trailwork Days 9am to 4pm
9/21 - 9/23 -- New River Gorge, WV -- Chicks with Picks Girly Gathering
9/25 - 9/30 -- Yosemite, CA -- Yosemite Facelift
9/27 - 9/30 -- Castle Rocks/City of Rock, ID -- Idaho Mountain Festival
10/6 -- Flagstaff, AZ -- Trailwork Days 9am to 4pm
Saturday, August 25, 2012
Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!!
Hopefully you got a chance to see the Perseid meteor shower a few weekends ago! It was an amazing display of celestial beauty. If you didn't, well I have a treat for you. The first video this weekend is a quick time-lapse of the light show above the slopes of Eldorado Peak, which we regularly climb as part of our AMTL 1 Course.
Perseid meteror shower over Eldorado Peak from Erik Turner on Vimeo.
This next video from the first in a four part series from Arc'teryx, features Jason Kruk on the Squamish classic "Genius Loci" and delves into the mentality behind the establishment of this route. It has has some really crazy "cable-cam" shots!
"THIS WAY" Episode1 - Squamish - Genius Loci from ARC'TERYX on Vimeo.
Swiss climber Fred Nicole takes us along for the ride on the first ascent of a hidden gem in the forests.
A climber from one of our recent 3-day Baker Skills and Climbs put together this great video of her trip with us.
Have a great weekend!
Perseid meteror shower over Eldorado Peak from Erik Turner on Vimeo.
This next video from the first in a four part series from Arc'teryx, features Jason Kruk on the Squamish classic "Genius Loci" and delves into the mentality behind the establishment of this route. It has has some really crazy "cable-cam" shots!
"THIS WAY" Episode1 - Squamish - Genius Loci from ARC'TERYX on Vimeo.
Swiss climber Fred Nicole takes us along for the ride on the first ascent of a hidden gem in the forests.
A climber from one of our recent 3-day Baker Skills and Climbs put together this great video of her trip with us.
Have a great weekend!
Friday, August 24, 2012
Fred Beckey (with AAI president Dunham Gooding) registering Dan Humphrey of San Franciso in an Alpinism 1 course this afternoon at the AAI office. Waiting for the arrival of Institute guide Everett Chamberlain for a climbing trip to the Selkirks of British Columbia, Fred said, "I don't like just sitting around. Let me do something useful." Considering himself a quick learner, he was indeed a very quick study in this administrative process.
When he gets back from Canada, he hopes to meet Dan and his fellow climbers as they come off Mt. Baker. Fred said, "I want to know if my deft work at the computer played a role in Dan's success. Probably will!"
Beckey's career spans seven decades and encompasses more notable first ascents than any other climber in the world. His first ascents range from Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades (with Lloyd Anderson in 1940), to the North Face of Mt. Edith Cavell (with Yvonne Chouinard), to the West Ridge of Mt. Hunter in Alaska (with Heinrich Harrer), to the West Buttress of Musembeah Peak in the Wind River Range (with Layton Kor). This week he's hoping for a new route on one of the peaks north of Roger's Pass.
Summer Slayin!
A couple of weeks ago me and a POSSE of boys decided to tackle Little Tahoma. It turns out Little Tahoma, ain't so little. At 11,143 ft it is the third tallest peak in Washington but it is dwarfed by Rainier by it's side. We decided to rename it Medium Tahoma. It has a sick, mildly steep northeast face that is about 2,000 feet long and 45 degrees at the top, mellowing out shortly thereafter. Since I started guiding with the senior guides in Denali still I was loaded with work and was STOKED to get some time off to shred. I was in party mode on this climb, hence my party attire.
We parked at the Summerland trailhead in Rainier NP. We hiked about 3 miles in where we gained about 500 feet on soft red cedar bark, boy that was nice. We got to snow after a couple hours and put on our skins.
Climbing a total of about 7,000 feet "Little" Tahoma was actually a pretty big day. Bigger than doing Mt. Baker in a day. We got about 6,500 feet of shreddage in.
5.7 move to get to the summit. Super chossy nightmare.
Summit shot
The lower portion of the face.
The rest of the ski was awesome. A really direct descent with fun hits, bowls and a nice steep face.
--Liz Daley, AAI Instructor and Guide
We parked at the Summerland trailhead in Rainier NP. We hiked about 3 miles in where we gained about 500 feet on soft red cedar bark, boy that was nice. We got to snow after a couple hours and put on our skins.
Climbing a total of about 7,000 feet "Little" Tahoma was actually a pretty big day. Bigger than doing Mt. Baker in a day. We got about 6,500 feet of shreddage in.
5.7 move to get to the summit. Super chossy nightmare.
Summit shot
The lower portion of the face.
The rest of the ski was awesome. A really direct descent with fun hits, bowls and a nice steep face.
--Liz Daley, AAI Instructor and Guide
Wednesday, August 22, 2012
Mountain Conditions August 22nd, 2012
WASHINGTON:
Squamish: Wasps on Alexis Crack and Token Brits
Road Closures:
-Mt Baker Highway open to Artist Point.
-FS Road 5500-101 and McClellan Butte Trailhead: Closed Weekdays Aug. 20 - Mid September due to helicopter timber thinning.
-Mason Lake Road/Ira Spring Trailhead closed weekdays through mid August for Helicopter logging.
Gold Bar Climbing Access: As of Winter 2012 the Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC) has secured access to the gate on the road which leads up to the Gold Bar boulders and the approach to Zeke’s Wall. Climbers who are members of the WCC are welcome to climb at the Gold Bar Boulders and to park there for access to Zeke’s Wall, as guests of the Manke Timber Company. Please note: all climbers using this road must be members of the WCC and have a WCC sticker as well as a valid Discover Pass.
- Climbing Access and Other Beta: Washington Climbers Coalition
- Route and Conditions from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.
- Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center
- Mountain Specific Weather Forecasting.
- Forecast for Mount Rainier.
-- Webcams --
ALASKA:
SIERRA:
U-Notch: Out of condition
Dana Couloir: Out of Condition
-- Webcams --
RED ROCK CANYON:
Red Rock Canyon Campground will close May 29th, 2012 and will re-open Labor Day Weekend.
-- The Red Rock Campground is currently closed and will re-open Labor Day weekend 2012.
-- The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
JOSHUA TREE:
--Weather
--Webcam
ALPS:
Monday, August 20, 2012
Non-Lockers vs. Lockers at the Master Point
At a beginning level, climbing tends to be rule-based. These rules that you are provided at the start of your career are important. They will help to keep you safe.
It should be noted that once you have a few years of experience, there is some room to re-evaluate some of the rules. However, this should only take place after you have climbed with a lot of different experienced people.
One of the commonly quoted rules for toproped climbing is that one should always use two opposite and opposed lockers at the master point.
Two opposite and opposed lockers.
The idea is that there is no way that the rope could possibly jump out of two opposite and opposed lockers. And while it may be possible -- however unlikely -- for movement in the system to cause the one of the gates to become unlocked and to open, it would be nearly impossible for the both lockers to become unlocked and to be opened.
In the guiding world, two opposite and opposed lockers are considered to be industry standard. The liklihood of a single locking carabiner becoming unlocked and opening is incredibly low. However, this is one of the rules that you learn when you start to climb and it has become so integral to outdoor groups throughout the world in toproping that it has become the industry standard across the board.
Industry standard is one of those phrases that we should pay attention to in climbing. There are very few things that can be considered industry standard in the climbing world.
That said, it is incredibly unlikely that a single locker in a toprope system will fail. But what if something does go wrong? And what if you were toproping in a way that was outside this standard? Certainly you would feel terrible, and not only that, you would also be hammered by the internet forums, the blogs, and the magazines for doing something considered to be outside the norm. As such, it's probably a good idea to stay within the norm.
Many climbers use two opposite and opposed non-lockers in lieu of two opposite and opposed lockers. Two opposite and opposed non-lockers should be considered the equivalent of one locking carabiner. For non-lockers to have equivalency to two opposite and opposed lockers, there must be three opposite and opposed non-lockers.
Three opposite and opposed non-lockers and equivalent to two opposite and opposed lockers.
Rules in climbing exist to create a wide margin of safety. There's really no reason at all not to have a wide margin of safety in a toproped environment.
--Jason D. Martin
It should be noted that once you have a few years of experience, there is some room to re-evaluate some of the rules. However, this should only take place after you have climbed with a lot of different experienced people.
One of the commonly quoted rules for toproped climbing is that one should always use two opposite and opposed lockers at the master point.
Two opposite and opposed lockers.The idea is that there is no way that the rope could possibly jump out of two opposite and opposed lockers. And while it may be possible -- however unlikely -- for movement in the system to cause the one of the gates to become unlocked and to open, it would be nearly impossible for the both lockers to become unlocked and to be opened.
In the guiding world, two opposite and opposed lockers are considered to be industry standard. The liklihood of a single locking carabiner becoming unlocked and opening is incredibly low. However, this is one of the rules that you learn when you start to climb and it has become so integral to outdoor groups throughout the world in toproping that it has become the industry standard across the board.
Industry standard is one of those phrases that we should pay attention to in climbing. There are very few things that can be considered industry standard in the climbing world.
That said, it is incredibly unlikely that a single locker in a toprope system will fail. But what if something does go wrong? And what if you were toproping in a way that was outside this standard? Certainly you would feel terrible, and not only that, you would also be hammered by the internet forums, the blogs, and the magazines for doing something considered to be outside the norm. As such, it's probably a good idea to stay within the norm.
Many climbers use two opposite and opposed non-lockers in lieu of two opposite and opposed lockers. Two opposite and opposed non-lockers should be considered the equivalent of one locking carabiner. For non-lockers to have equivalency to two opposite and opposed lockers, there must be three opposite and opposed non-lockers.
Three opposite and opposed non-lockers and equivalent to two opposite and opposed lockers.Rules in climbing exist to create a wide margin of safety. There's really no reason at all not to have a wide margin of safety in a toproped environment.
--Jason D. Martin
Sunday, August 19, 2012
Climbing Events August & September 2012
8/19 - 8/24 -- Tuolomne Meadows, CA -- AAC Tuolomne Adopt a Crag
8/ 25 - 8/26 -- Munich, GER -- IFSC Climbing Worldcup
9/8 -- Boulder, CO -- Trailwork Days 9am to 4pm
9/14 -- Sunnyvale, CO -- Planet Granite Bloc Party
9/22 -- Flagstaff, AZ -- Trailwork Days 9am to 4pm
9/21 - 9/23 -- New River Gorge, WV -- Chicks with Picks Girly Gathering
9/25 - 9/30 -- Yosemite, CA -- Yosemite Facelift
9/27 - 9/30 -- Castle Rocks/City of Rock, ID -- Idaho Mountain Festival
10/6 -- Flagstaff, AZ -- Trailwork Days 9am to 4pm
Friday, August 17, 2012
Book Review - Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher
Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher
by Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley
Mountaineers Books; $21.95
Most bookstores and climbing shops have a shelf set aside where one can find a number of “how-to” volumes on alpine climbing and mountaineering. For the aspiring alpinist, picking through such tomes can be a daunting task. Which author has the most experience? Which book is the easiest to read? Which provides the most information? In other words, which of these books is the best? Mountaineers Books has answered each of these questions with their new instructional manual, Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher by Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley.
Houston and Cosley have over fifty years of combined experience as instructors, guides, and climbers. They guided for AAI for many years in the Cascades, Alaska Range, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, and Nepal. This depth of experience in all three capacities is directly reflected in Techniques to Take You Higher. The book is laid out in an easy to read format that addresses everything an alpine climber might need to know. The book starts with the dynamic psychological skill of making informed decisions in the mountains and then works its way through each of the technical skills required for a climber to move safely and effectively in an alpine environment.
One very nice element of the book are anecdotes throughout the text that highlight the value of each chapter’s content. For example, Houston writes about the extraction of a climber from a crevasse who fell in while glissading during a discussion on the dangers of that method of descent; and Cosley writes about dealing with a victim of AMS in a section on altitude illness. These stories scattered throughout the book reemphasize the importance of the skills being discussed while providing entertaining tangents.
Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher is an excellent resource for the beginning to intermediate alpinist. Indeed, the collected experiences and instruction of Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley might be well worth a read by even the most seasoned of alpine climbers.
--Jason D. Martin
by Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley
Mountaineers Books; $21.95
Most bookstores and climbing shops have a shelf set aside where one can find a number of “how-to” volumes on alpine climbing and mountaineering. For the aspiring alpinist, picking through such tomes can be a daunting task. Which author has the most experience? Which book is the easiest to read? Which provides the most information? In other words, which of these books is the best? Mountaineers Books has answered each of these questions with their new instructional manual, Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher by Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley.
Houston and Cosley have over fifty years of combined experience as instructors, guides, and climbers. They guided for AAI for many years in the Cascades, Alaska Range, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, and Nepal. This depth of experience in all three capacities is directly reflected in Techniques to Take You Higher. The book is laid out in an easy to read format that addresses everything an alpine climber might need to know. The book starts with the dynamic psychological skill of making informed decisions in the mountains and then works its way through each of the technical skills required for a climber to move safely and effectively in an alpine environment.
One very nice element of the book are anecdotes throughout the text that highlight the value of each chapter’s content. For example, Houston writes about the extraction of a climber from a crevasse who fell in while glissading during a discussion on the dangers of that method of descent; and Cosley writes about dealing with a victim of AMS in a section on altitude illness. These stories scattered throughout the book reemphasize the importance of the skills being discussed while providing entertaining tangents.
Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher is an excellent resource for the beginning to intermediate alpinist. Indeed, the collected experiences and instruction of Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley might be well worth a read by even the most seasoned of alpine climbers.
--Jason D. Martin
Wednesday, August 15, 2012
Mountain Conditions Aug 15th, 2012
WASHINGTON:
Road Closures:
-Mt Baker: The Coleman Deming route is in condition but with very warm conditions lately crevasses are starting to open up. There were also significant calving events on significant ice falls above the route. While the bootpack is at a distance from these ice falls it is not impervious to them. Climbers should be wary at all hours of the day and night.
-Mt Baker Highway open to Artist Point.
-FS Road 5500-101 and McClellan Butte Trailhead: Closed Weekdays Aug. 20 - Mid September due to helicopter timber thinning.
-Talupus Lake Road/Talupus Creek Trailhead closed weekdays through mid August for logging.
-Mason Lake Road/Ira Spring Trailhead closed weekdays through mid August for Helicopter logging.
Gold Bar Climbing Access: As of Winter 2012 the Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC) has secured access to the gate on the road which leads up to the Gold Bar boulders and the approach to Zeke’s Wall. Climbers who are members of the WCC are welcome to climb at the Gold Bar Boulders and to park there for access to Zeke’s Wall, as guests of the Manke Timber Company. Please note: all climbers using this road must be members of the WCC and have a WCC sticker as well as a valid Discover Pass.
- Climbing Access and Other Beta: Washington Climbers Coalition
- Route and Conditions from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.
- Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center
- Mountain Specific Weather Forecasting.
- Forecast for Mount Rainier.
-- Webcams --
ALASKA:
SIERRA:
U-Notch: Out of condition
Dana Couloir: Out of Condition
-- Webcams --
RED ROCK CANYON:
Red Rock Canyon Campground will close May 29th, 2012 and will re-open Labor Day Weekend.
-- The Red Rock Campground is currently closed and will re-open Labor Day weekend 2012.
-- The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
JOSHUA TREE:
--Weather
--Webcam
ALPS:
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